Daily Driven Demon (Sleeper )

So I took spill valve off put in injector cleaner. did not change anything. still hesitates when it goes into boost and if i stay in it, it starts popping.

I'm wondering how would the hpfp be locking up if it was fully broken down and cleaned (not the 1st, 2nd or 3rd time i have cleaned the hpfp before with no issues). i did a full break down and cleaning before this new build was assembled. and i've done a handful of logs all the way thru 91 tune then 91 with pi. no issues. just started 2 weeks ago. and if it locks up why would it just unlock again a minute later to start back up? confused. I grabbed the spill valve and fprv from the other car that i know for sure was running fine. soo it would mean hpfp rebuild but it just don't make sense ! There's no way it got the black bullshit of death from e33 blend already....its only seen just under 2000 miles total....

there's a guy on facebook suggesting to use a jumper on the fuel pump relay in fuse box in engine bay to a constant 12V. unsure if i should try it. he shared a video to me of how to do it. here :
Template public:_media_site_embed_youtube not found. Try rebuilding or reinstalling the s9e/MediaSites add-on.


i took a log of the drive and a itfp test again after drive this time

so the spill valve comes apart for cleaning?

the 0

i threw in the injector cleaner in the tank(1/2tank) and let it idle. it started dying and i kept restarting it. so i took a log and im going to pull hpfp tomorrow and clean it.

i normally use brake cleaner. and use a very small amount of engine oil when reassembling it. any tips?

Enki said:
you can opt to mail your pump to me and I will break it down, clean it up and send it back to you at no cost other than shipping. As I'm due for a full HPFP cleaning anyways, I could also potentially run it on my car for a bit and see if it has issues, but this would extend downtime.
Click to expand...

I Do Appreciate The Offer! But this is the daily right now. so i'm going to have to take out the hpfp and reclean it tomorrow. so hopefully i can drive to work monday. Thanks for the help!!
 

Attachments

Last edited by a moderator:
He was quoting me.

PRV checks out, that isn't the issue.
The way the pressure drops and the car leans out suggests an issue with the ITFP, the spill valve or the internals.
The 0s in the log when it's running suggest either an issue with the rail pressure sensor or the ITFP.

Since the car is leaning out when the pressure drops, it's more than likely the ITFP.

As a side note, it is possible to install the HPFP in a way where it won't fully stroke; I've done this myself before. As it is, it's reasonable to assume your HPFP is being starved of fuel and thus it cannot keep up the pressure. It's really weird though because the HPFP needs very little pressure to keep fed.
 
Enki said:
He was quoting me.

PRV checks out, that isn't the issue.
The way the pressure drops and the car leans out suggests an issue with the ITFP, the spill valve or the internals.
The 0s in the log when it's running suggest either an issue with the rail pressure sensor or the ITFP.

Since the car is leaning out when the pressure drops, it's more than likely the ITFP.

As a side note, it is possible to install the HPFP in a way where it won't fully stroke; I've done this myself before. As it is, it's reasonable to assume your HPFP is being starved of fuel and thus it cannot keep up the pressure. It's really weird though because the HPFP needs very little pressure to keep fed.
Click to expand...
so should i try the jumper from video before fully ripping it out or is the video questionable?
 
Had a similar issue. It was my DI injector harness.
FB_IMG_1612148967349.jpg

There were times rail pressure read zero as well. And of course the DI harness was the last thing I checked after replacing the hpfp, spill valve, prv and hell cat pump...

Screenshot_20210131-221206.png

Which Justin (freek) was the one that told me to check my harness when I messaged him asking if he'd ever seen anything similar because he was 100% certain it was electrical. And he was right lol...

Dont waste your time pulling the itfp to rule that out. Stick a camera in the engine bay pointed at your FPR. Bet its holding pressure just fine
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sho said:
Had a similar issue. It was my DI injector harness.
View attachment 17103

There were times rail pressure read zero as well. And of course the DI harness was the last thing I checked after replacing the hpfp, spill valve, prv and hell cat pump...

View attachment 17104
Click to expand...


Thanks man. I Appreciate The Help!

I actually started there. I make the wire tuck harnesses and I have one on the car. I thought maybe I screwed it up or maybe bought wrong plug housing. But I've changed the secondary harness(The one that goes to the hpfp) 2 times. I'm on the 3rd harness now with the oem hpfp plug. Just to be sure it wasn't the harness or the plug..messenger-quick-cam-1603040401215.jpg


So if there is a electric issues with the harness it would have to be the engine bay harness that connects to the Di harness. I did get a couple weird check engine lights today for loss communication with pcm and fuel pressure regulator 1 control circuit low. Never got them before.

Sho said:
Which Justin (freek) was the one that told me to check my harness when I messaged him asking if he'd ever seen anything similar because he was 100% certain it was electrical. And he was right lol...

Dont waste your time pulling the itfp to rule that out. Stick a camera in the engine bay pointed at your FPR. Bet its holding pressure just fine
Click to expand...

Well I already set sail and came back lol Yeah it's Justin from freek. I already did pull itfp to check it out and I just rewired the hell cat pump assembly while I was in there just in case.. and I changed hprv with my other speed thats parked. and changed the spill valve with same car but made it worse. Couldn't evan drive at all. it was hesitating bad.

So i changed the spill valve back. And today I disassembled and cleaned the spill valve and put some redline in the hpfp before putting spill valve back.
Well it didn't change anything.

So after redoing hell cat fuel pump and cleaning the spill valve. Now it shows 73 psi for itfp. And it's not in the 50's like it was. And I took her for a spin and she hesitated a little. But she goes into boost now. 1st time it popped. I let out and 2nd time it did go into boost a little and popped and hesitated a little but less then 1st time. So I thought maybe the redline was working. So I tried to boost 2 more times and she hesitated the 1st time but no pop. And the 2nd one it went almost full boost and no popping.

I've miss you boost. Lol. So I drove home. Let her run for a few to keep the redlime moving and cleaning. And she started dying. So I took a log. And it just kept dying after a minute. I got the codes when I went to take logs to see what was going on with it just shutting off.

So I'm going to look into those tomorrow.
I'll put the logs up. 1st one was warm up 2nd was started driving 3rd is also driving. And a picture of the codes and the spill valve and itfp. 20210131_153656.jpg 20210131_154948.jpg 20210131_155252.jpg 20210131_162600.jpg 20210130_180614.jpg 20210131_170553.jpg 20210131_170556.jpg

Sho said:
Which Justin (freek) was the one that told me to check my harness when I messaged him asking if he'd ever seen anything similar because he was 100% certain it was electrical. And he was right lol...

Dont waste your time pulling the itfp to rule that out. Stick a camera in the engine bay pointed at your FPR. Bet its holding pressure just fine
Click to expand...
With the new codes I'm going to say I'm thinking Justin's right. Its electrical issue. Thanks again man.
 

Attachments

Last edited by a moderator:
Did you do the thumbnail check on the spill valve needle to see if it was sticky/sticking?
 
Enki said:
Did you do the thumbnail check on the spill valve needle to see if it was sticky/sticking?
Click to expand...

Yes and it seemed fine but to be sure I did it anyway just to mark it off the list of potential issues. I really just needed it to act right to get me to work and it drove and went into boost after itfp and spill valve cleaning.

But after sitting in drive way and dying like 6 times over and over and pushing gas didn't help.. I'm starting new job today and can't risk it being stupid on 1st day and missing work. And then the codes that came up seem to point at electrical
 
That +quote button bottom right of posts is a wonderful thing once you've tapped that a insert quotes button will pop up on the reply box allowing you to quote multiple posts in one post. Posts merged, again.
 
Awafrican said:
That +quote button bottom right of posts is a wonderful thing once you've tapped that a insert quotes button will pop up on the reply box allowing you to quote multiple posts in one post. Posts merged, again.
Click to expand...
Merge the whole build thread..lol jk
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Sho
JohnnyTightlips said:
Template public:_media_site_embed_youtube not found. Try rebuilding or reinstalling the s9e/MediaSites add-on.
I guess I was late to my reply lol
Click to expand...

Lol, well I Appreciate The Help Anyway!

Sho said:
Any luck? Need a spill valve? I should have a few spares
Click to expand...

So, You were right! It was the actual DI harness. Not the one going to it. Which is the one I thought it was... so i changed it with the one from the other speed and Bam!! Problem solved!!! Thanks for your help!

And Thanks to Enki and Everyone for helping!

So I sent off some logs to Justin. I'll include. She's starting to wake up!!
20210208_155241.jpg

And while I was in there again I added a sure thermal gasket between the Damond ST adapter and the block. Figured it would help keep the fuel temperatures cooler.. maybe lol.
20210207_165724.jpg
20210207_170539.jpg 20210207_170832.jpg

So I need to drive the car to work. And I bought a new OCC but I think it is too big for what I need. But i'm still having a issue with the OCC spraying oil out vented can. So when I park, its dripping oil every where... like Wtf... So just to get by. I routed the Damond vented OCC vented top to a second catch can to catch what was being blown out. This is temporary. Just so I can drive to work and not leave a puddle at work..
20210206_182115.jpg
 

Attachments

Last edited:
Glad to hear you got it sorted. Experience is a fucky thing. Went thru all the same stuff and was pulling my hair out. Of course the DI harness was the final thing I tried after wasting weeks messing with everything else.
 
Sho said:
Glad to hear you got it sorted. Experience is a fucky thing. Went thru all the same stuff and was pulling my hair out. Of course the DI harness was the final thing I tried after wasting weeks messing with everything else.
Click to expand...

Lol, For some reason when I read your post saying it was the DI harness, I kept thinking of the coil pack harness that has the secondary harness that goes to the DI harness. I didn't evan think of the actual DI harness. Then when I re read all the posted suggestions again. I realized that's the one you meant. But SOO glad she is running again!!!
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Sho
Sho said:
Got any of them 38psi logs!?
Click to expand...

No, which I thought is werid. I evan looked over the newest logs for new tune i just got (E33-PI-C) and it says 33 psi is the highest it saw on 3rd gear pull. When I put on the new tune at the time (E33-PI-B) and drove it for a few days before logs were taken. it felt better i believe it was 10°F that night. It was a fun drive!! And after a fun drive the 2nd day. I saw the ap said it hit 38. I was like Hell Yeah!! and snapped a pic.. So maybe it was in 4th or 5th gear, or a spike on down shifts. I just had fun on a drive and saw it said 38 psi and highest seen number on ap when I parked it after drive..

So I got the next tune (E33-PI-C) And took a few more logs. But its still running rich. Its bucking and popping when you are hard on the throttle. Here's the logs I sent to Justin.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: Sho
Doesnt look too rich. Ive run as low as 9.8 or 10.0 up top without any popping or hesitation.

Whats the gap on your plugs? I have to run in the 0.022-0.024 range on my NGK 6510 at 30psi to avoid any spark blowout
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top