Daily Driven Demon (Sleeper )

Honestly I was surprised I was able to get a full WOT with out it popping. Its popping alot when u get on throttle

And the plugs are .22 set at beginning of tuning. Last time I said something to Justin at freek he said he switching fuel to more pi and its just running rich now. So I assume its the same deal. We are on 3 revision.
 
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I took some logs while I got on it and it was popping. Not sure whats causing it.
1st log was going thru the gears and it backfired and poped in every gear.

2nd log was 3rd and 4th and it was popping.
 

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Look at line 70 in the first log.
Rich on shift with retarded timing = afterfire. Same thing as antilag. You can sometimes drive around this if you're careful.

Are you running a BOV VTA? If so, does your tuner know? It can be tuned out as well.

Edit: Sorry not a shift, just bad part throttle fueling. Assuming the aux (if any) is coming on early with no compensations for it.
 
Enki said:
Look at line 70 in the first log.
Rich on shift with retarded timing = afterfire. Same thing as antilag. You can sometimes drive around this if you're careful.

Are you running a BOV VTA? If so, does your tuner know? It can be tuned out as well.

Edit: Sorry not a shift, just bad part throttle fueling. Assuming the aux (if any) is coming on early with no compensations for it.
Click to expand...

Yeah I made sure Justin knew my full setup and we been tuning on DI only91(no PI) then 91 with PI no problems. So I highly doubt its a rich after shift condition.

Now the aux coming on early and no compensation sounds more right. The car drove like shit mid 91 tune as well and we are mid E33. So thats what I was thinking.

I grabbed a video of the car in 3rd at 4k just cruising for a few minutes. No shift and when I get in it it goes then it pops twice. So I let out. Then I hit it again and it popped again so I let out.

Here's the video
( sorry I guess lense was smudged)
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Your PI is coming on in a big way at 7 PSI / 3v if that's the case. That might be a *touch* early, but I've yet to tune a car with PI so that would be simple speculation on my part.
 
Yep.looks like its coming in hard at lower voltage. I have mine coming in at 3.3V but blends in smoothly until it really takes over as primary fueling at 4v. Took a bit to dial In properly and i actually took a bunch of part throttle logs in boost slowly ramping boost in with my right foot while monitoring maf v from 3 to 4v to get it right.

I'm sure Justin will get it dialed in
 
So I just talked to Justin. He says change plugs and gap to .018 to .020. So picking up some plugs on the way home and try to get them in tonight! I drove to work and in vacuum its fine once u hit over 15psi its popping and driving like shit... so hopefully thats it.
 
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Well I changed the plugs and set gap to .018 and it didn't fix it. I can drive in vacuum and it only does the pop and (what feels like a mis fire) here and there. Once I try and boost its starts being stupid again. I found i can only boost in 5th and 6th and at partial throttle. Then i can hit 25 to 32 psi and as long as i stay partial and dont push it. She we go until i get up in the high rpm then. It will start again. Sent Justin logs that were posted a few posts up. And he said that they don't show any mis or hesitation. He sent me the next map. So hoping that it might be tune related. I put on new map and it didn't change anything I tried to grab a 3rd gear wot and it wouldn't. Its started popping a ton and I let out. Tired again and same. Going to send the logs of me attempting the logs to see if Justin sees anything. If its not showing the problem in the logs I'm kinda lost as to how to find the problem ... guess we will see what Justin says.
 
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Only other times ive seen something similar:
-Pcv hose at the manifold not sealing to its barb
-leaking injector seals
 
I'll check the torque on the injectors and since I'll have to remove manifold I have a look at the pcv hose. Thanks
 
So tomorrow I'm going to try a few things.
Check torque on pcv plate, injectors, st manifold, and check pcv hose to mani.

I'm also going to test the split second controller and make sure its getting power and getting maf voltage and rpm readings. Maybe reflash the map to make sure its good.

I'm also going to remove the Damond Motorsports vented can and hook the big OCC stright to motor and hope i don't get any stft issues(rough idle).

But I had a thought. So when I pulled the spark plugs to change over to a fresh set with new gap. I found the plugs that were in there, the insulation had cracked. Big time. I didn't think much about it. SInce I was already changing the plugs. Here is a few pictures of the plugs i pulled out..
20210217_231152.jpg 20210217_231238.jpg 20210217_231248.jpg

But after the plugs were changed, its been consistently popping and back firing. So I thought maybe the plugs were bad, but the change in gap was not needed yet.

So when I did the plugs the 1st time I used a standard disk gaper. But was only able to get .020 (thats the lowest setting on disk gapers) after I read a few things online, I realized with NGK Iridium plugs your not supposed to use the disk gaper because it will damage the Iridium tip and basically trash the plug. So I bought a second set and a different gapping tool. And gapped it the correct way. But gapped it to .018 this time.

So moving forward, I took the 1st set of plugs that I had that I used the disk gaper on and I re gapped them to .022. The original gap the I was to put them to at the start of the tuning process. And went for a drive and I was able to drive aggressively and go well into boost. But it slowly started doing it again.

I was able to get a few logs. Now correct me if I'm wrong but if you compared the logs I sent to Justin on E33 map B to these ones. I think my PI is not coming on. The map B logs show the target A/F around 11. And my new ones shows the A/F all over the place. But your seeing 12's, 13's and 14's while at high boost and the 14 at high boost I hit 5.+ knock and thats when the car was popping and hesitating.

I'm going to re gap the good plugs(2nd set of new plugs- gapped to .018) to..022 just so i can eliminate the 1st set of possibly bad plugs (used wrong gapping tool).

Here is the logs from tonight with the only change being putting in different plugs but gapped back at original gapping. And there's a log of the car at idle.
 

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Juschiln19 said:
So tomorrow I'm going to try a few things.
Check torque on pcv plate, injectors, st manifold, and check pcv hose to mani.

I'm also going to test the split second controller and make sure its getting power and getting maf voltage and rpm readings. Maybe reflash the map to make sure its good.

I'm also going to remove the Damond Motorsports vented can and hook the big OCC stright to motor and hope i don't get any stft issues(rough idle).

But I had a thought. So when I pulled the spark plugs to change over to a fresh set with new gap. I found the plugs that were in there, the insulation had cracked. Big time. I didn't think much about it. SInce I was already changing the plugs. Here is a few pictures of the plugs i pulled out..
View attachment 17333 View attachment 17334 View attachment 17335

But after the plugs were changed, its been consistently popping and back firing. So I thought maybe the plugs were bad, but the change in gap was not needed yet.

So when I did the plugs the 1st time I used a standard disk gaper. But was only able to get .020 (thats the lowest setting on disk gapers) after I read a few things online, I realized with NGK Iridium plugs your not supposed to use the disk gaper because it will damage the Iridium tip and basically trash the plug. So I bought a second set and a different gapping tool. And gapped it the correct way. But gapped it to .018 this time.

So moving forward, I took the 1st set of plugs that I had that I used the disk gaper on and I re gapped them to .022. The original gap the I was to put them to at the start of the tuning process. And went for a drive and I was able to drive aggressively and go well into boost. But it slowly started doing it again.

I was able to get a few logs. Now correct me if I'm wrong but if you compared the logs I sent to Justin on E33 map B to these ones. I think my PI is not coming on. The map B logs show the target A/F around 11. And my new ones shows the A/F all over the place. But your seeing 12's, 13's and 14's while at high boost and the 14 at high boost I hit 5.+ knock and thats when the car was popping and hesitating.

I'm going to re gap the good plugs(2nd set of new plugs- gapped to .018) to..022 just so i can eliminate the 1st set of possibly bad plugs (used wrong gapping tool).

Here is the logs from tonight with the only change being putting in different plugs but gapped back at original gapping. And there's a log of the car at idle.
Click to expand...
I had this issue with plugs cracking and I think it was due to my timing being retarded without me knowing. My timing wheel had slipped on the pulley so when the map was calling for 6 degrees the car was getting 0. This likely led to more heat which was cracking plugs. Just something to look at.
 
JohnnyTightlips said:
I had this issue with plugs cracking and I think it was due to my timing being retarded without me knowing. My timing wheel had slipped on the pulley so when the map was calling for 6 degrees the car was getting 0. This likely led to more heat which was cracking plugs. Just something to look at.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks, Next log I will see if I can see the requested timing.. I sent off the new logs to Justin. so in a week we will see what he says.

So I removed the st mani. Checked injectors and Damond Motorsports pcv plate. Looks like the pcv plate was leaking on lower left corner. I tightened it and the cylinder 4 injector needed a slight turn. Hopefully the injector seal is still good.
I couldn't see any leakage from the injector on block right below it. So I'm Hopeful it's still good!

I removed the Damond Motorsports vented can(drivers side one) and put the big OCC I bought straight to motor. We will see if its good when I start it tomorrow. My concern is that it lets in too much unmetered air since its a big step up from the Damond Motorsports can and the car runs like crap.

I made sure the pcv hose to intake was connected firmly.

I checked the split second for power. Then that it was getting the signals. Everything checked out. I flashed the test map at idle and tested the injectors all fired and bogged motor down. Didn't notice any difference in the amount it bogged. I then flashed the map B back on and tucked it away under dash again.

I found the J pipe I have going to the st mani is rubbing on the oil filter housing. So I put a coupler right where its hitting.
20210220_164212.jpg 20210220_164216.jpg 20210220_164226.jpg 20210220_164250.jpg
Still need to re gap the better plugs (the ones I used proper gapping tool on) from .018 back to .022 and install those again. And draining OCC.

Then take her for a drive and see if she is good.
 
Well I re gapped plugs to .022 and changed the plugs, I drained the OCC and I removed the quick drain plug and added a 90° and a hose to it to be able to drain it without undoing the wheel well flap everytime. Ran the hose toward the front where the wheel well flap ends. Just need to do the same for the passengers side one. Easy drain would be sweet.
20210221_173351.jpg

I took her for a drive and She Is Running Great! I took new logs, I'll leave at the bottom. The car didn't mis or hesitate once !!!

And I Can Finally Enjoy The New Tune! She's Waking Up For Sure! I took a video of me taking the logs. Looks slow but was pretty fun. (Thats why I said "Oh Sh*t!" In the vidso)

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Well the car drove great that night!! The next day I had to go on a drive after work and was getting on it and enjoying the car finally!!! And It Was Great!! But the following day it started doing the hesitating and popping again at full throttle in any gear. You can boost but only at half throttle. And it actually pulls rather good for only half throttle lol. So I pulled the mani to find the injector bolt had loosened slightly again.

So my torque wrench must be crap. So I tighted it back down solid. But Its doing the same thing. must have lost the seals integrity too much this time.

So I ordered a new set of Overspeed Motorsports injector seals. And new seals for the top of the injectors. I'm going to grab a new torque wrench.

Got new tune from Justin already, so logs I sent after I retightened injector were on point I guess.

I'm waiting to flash new tune until I put new injector seals on and confirm its better again. If not most likely the spark plugs cracked again presumably from the popping in engine taking its toll when its hesitating.

And it was time to change oil. So I got that out of the way.
 
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Update. So I bought new torque wrench and new injector seals. I decided to just replace all injector seals as a set. I made the mistake of setting the tube with one of the seals on the valve cover, while I was installing the 1st seal. And big surprise, I bumped the tube and it fell behind block between transfer case and and motor. After trying for a few hours I only got the tube to come out. The seal couldn't be recovered.(like really, Really...)

So I had no choice but to buy another complete set again. Since the manufacturer wouldn't sell me a single seal(they make the seals, it wouldn't have been a big deal to just add one extra seal to next order from machine shop but NOPE) I figured they wouldn't but had to try.. lol

So after putting on new seals. The car drove Great!! So I grabbed some new logs. But after the logs I found oil had sprayed out the dip stick... so still having over pressure issue... but only did it with new map(more boost)..

So here is the new logs. There will be an idle after new seals. A log with the map (D) the one I was already running. Then the 2 new logs with new map( E )and a idle log after taking new logs.
 

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BAD NEWS--- HUGE ACCIDENT!
So Wednesday morning I was driving to work and i was doing 75 to 80mph on hwy 287 in colorado. Speed limit was 65. And a guy came flying up on me. In left lane of 2 lane road.. so I speed up to get over and out of way but he was hauling ass. so he end up switching lanes and was next to me before I switched lanes. And was already coming into my lane ( I presume he thought I wouldn't be speeding up and intended to aggressively go around and cut me off is how it seemed.)

But he was coming into my lane so to avoid contact I went in middle median( it was just open lane with double yellow lanes on both sides of lane) and I only went 50% out of my lane and smashed the gas to get ahead of him. So I could return in my lane and he hit my rear right quarter panel (basic pit menuver) and by the time I realized we made contact I was already spun around and flying towards ditch going backwards. I only had enough time to look back left at the ditch coming And lean forward and grabbed ebrake to pull me towards middle. I knew it was going to roll.. By this time I had to be going 95 to just over 100 mph.

The car rolled 4 to 5 times. It was a hell of a ride. So Glad To Be Alive!!! And not a vegetable or paralyzed!!!

I made it out with only a bitten tongue and three broken bones that attach to the vertebra Thank God. Found out my insurance just lapsed for a payment not going tru just that Saturday prior. I was on family members policy and didn't know there was a issue. So I'm "F"ed for hospital bills, the car....

After accident the asshole that took me out had the nerve to come up to the car and start talking shit to me. Saying "thats what u get for trying to cut me off" its "F"ing crazy!!! I didn't do shit!!!

I tried to get out, driver door was stuck. I went to crawl out but the pain in my back and left leg was Intense!!! So I just sat there and waited for fire truck to pull me out.

Best part of it all. The cops always just go with 1st story they hear. So I got a careless driving ticket. Cop comes to hospital telling me. "The guy cut me off and I went completely into shoulder to pass him and I hit him!!" I never started going to right(back into my lane yet) the tire tracks start with me half out of my lane. I honestly believe he intentionally pitted me! I'm in shock!! My car is just gone.

Not Important but for what I can see the fmic crash bar is tweeked, a boost tube was smashed and the fuel pressure regulator connector to PI fuel rail snapped(THANK GOD the car didn't go up in flames with me in it!!!) And 2 out the 4 rims seem destroyed. But the rest seems to be salvageable. I already got it back from tow company for $705 delivered.

Not going to happen over night. But I have the original speed 6 in my garage. I'm etheir going to get another roller or just move everything back to original speed.

I'm Sooo Blessed To Be Alive And In Good Enough Condition To Be Alble To Build Again!!! My Baby Held Up Rather well Considering the speed and impact she took..
But looking into roll cage now! And will never drive the next build without a dash cam. I'm Still In Shock!!!!
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