davychronic's build

That only applies if you’re going over E50 and as I said, there is no tangible benefit to E85 over E50. Metaphorically speaking, putting E85 in your tank is like putting a Magnum condom on a 5 inch dick.


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I'm not interested in what you posted. The question asked by davy was about running full e85, and that's what I was referring to. I've never seen anyone have long term success without SI-1. He's obviously interested in over e50 for convenience.
 
I'm not interested in what you posted. The question asked by davy was about running full e85, and that's what I was referring to. I've never seen anyone have long term success without SI-1. He's obviously interested in over e50 for convenience.

My bad, your response came right after mine and with no quote it’s hard to tell who you’re talking to. I would think taking both of our comments into account, however, E85 is neither convenient nor beneficial. The thread you linked has instructions on taking apart your fuel pump, cleaning it, and prepping your fuel system for an unnecessary fuel which isn’t very convenient compared to simply pumping half E85 and half 93 and achieving the same exact results. Simple is BOTH practical and convenient.


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Convenience is relative. I don't even have a pump gas tune for my ms3, and I haven't run straight 93 octane since may 2014.

My closest corn station is 20 miles away from me, and I drive 1k miles a week lol. Doesn't bother me to drive 25 min to go fill half and half 93/e85 for the benefits E48 gives me.

We don't have those fancy e30 pumps here haha
 
By the way, here is an EXCELLENT video series testing race fuels. The test car is a Corvette C7 with a forced induction DI motor. VP’s C85 (E85) *cut* to C40 (E85 + 93) went on to win the test overall and made the most power, beating even super expensive race fuels. Pump E85 *cut* to E40 was 2nd. They explain in this video why they cut C85/E85 down to C40/E40. These results have been repeated many times on nearly every platform including ours.

Edited for clarification.




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Convenience is relative. I don't even have a pump gas tune for my ms3, and I haven't run straight 93 octane since may 2014.

My closest corn station is 20 miles away from me, and I drive 1k miles a week lol. Doesn't bother me to drive 25 min to go fill half and half 93/e85 for the benefits E48 gives me.

We don't have those fancy e30 pumps here haha

We are spoiled in the land of corn.
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And now my thermostat must be stuck open because it wont really get over 165 so fuck this car, just did my first couple logs on e50.
 
My bad, your response came right after mine and with no quote it’s hard to tell who you’re talking to. I would think taking both of our comments into account, however, E85 is neither convenient nor beneficial. The thread you linked has instructions on taking apart your fuel pump, cleaning it, and prepping your fuel system for an unnecessary fuel which isn’t very convenient compared to simply pumping half E85 and half 93 and achieving the same exact results. Simple is BOTH practical and convenient.


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Problem is ive never found mixing convienent since i have to guess and mix and use 2 credit cards to pay. All a pain in the ass compared to just paying once and pumping. I agree e85 is stupid and they never should have pushed such a high alcohol content originally but its what we are stuck with for now.
 
I have yet to find a baller pump like that near me but e85 is all over. Iowa4Life

Im a farmer and live where we have ethanol plants every county so we are spoiled with these nice blend pumps but ive seen them out in council bluffs too. Most pumps by me have e15 e30 and e85 and only one has e50.
 
So the only issue i have with vt now and its a pretty big deal is that i keep getting these U codes come up that never have before with the ap. Not sure what the issue is, everything works fine and i cant disable the codes in vt either. Ignore the overboost one since obviously i was hitting fuel cut.

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Anyone else have these problems?

It's been a while since I've flashed a tune to my car, but I believe those codes are caused by a bug with the mazdaspeed 6 ecu during flashing, if my memory is right. When you start flashing and versatune says to turn your ignition on without starting the car, you need to turn on the ignition and wait at least 10 seconds before hitting next, this isn't mentioned in the instructions. Whenever it prompts to turn on the ignition, or when it says wait 3 seconds, I always wait 10 just to be sure.

I'm pretty sure that's whats causing it, although I don't remember the exact codes my car threw when I had the issue, but it was something about communication. I also can't remember where I read to wait 10 seconds, but it worked for me.
 
Well fuck i guess my coolant temp sensor must be bad. New mazda thermostat and still wont get over 160ish. I made sure to keep the ac on so the fans were running. Never seen a temp sensor off by 40 degrees when hot but before i started it, it read 73 degrees which should be about right. I dont really know what else it could be. Oil temp gets up to about 170 on the cold side so i know the coolant temp has to be higher.
 
Wouldn't be surprised if the new oem t Stat was a dud out of the box, tbh. Mazda t-stats have a known history for being pieces of shit

I had a oem one fail, sticking closed in May. The oem replacement for that failed stuck open (constant 160 temp no matter what) 2 weeks ago. Replaced it with a motorad/Duralast 2 weeks ago, which failed stuck shut after 6 days. Went back to an oem, and so far so good lol
[doublepost=1533519064][/doublepost]But, replacing the ect sensor is easier, if you do try that first haha .
 
Wouldn't be surprised if the new oem t Stat was a dud out of the box, tbh. Mazda t-stats have a known history for being pieces of shit

I had a oem one fail, sticking closed in May. The oem replacement for that failed stuck open (constant 160 temp no matter what) 2 weeks ago. Replaced it with a motorad/Duralast 2 weeks ago, which failed stuck shut after 6 days. Went back to an oem, and so far so good lol
[doublepost=1533519064][/doublepost]But, replacing the ect sensor is easier, if you do try that first haha .

My god if i have to do that thermostat again ima be upset. Im going to run a couple blocks away to the local ford dealer in the morning and see if they have an ect in stock and try that. The thermostat i pulled out was an oreilly unit and didnt end up being stuck open. I need to put in in a pot of hot water and see what temp it opens up at. That should indicate if it was the issue.
 
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Well i went to the local ford dealer this morning and picked up a new ect sensor for $20. Put it on and im back in business. Turned boost up to 28 and she screams now. Need to work on my maf curve some more and add some timing but it really pulls strong now. I need to get another 3.5 bar and get my second fuel pump installed and see if i can get maybe 33 psi. At 30psi im starting to hit 99% idcs targeting 12.7 afr. I still have a little wihgle room on my port injectors to increase flow a little bit. Man shit is finally coming together. I need to try and hit up a tuner that is familiar with adjusting the volumetric efficieny tables to try and make the most out of these cams.
 
Good to hear!

What size injectors you using?
Sounds like you need to use more PI and get the DI IDC down!
[doublepost=1533590755][/doublepost]Also, are you not worried about how crazy high your EGT's must be target g that lean an afr at WOT? 12.0 shouldn't lose you any power and be much safer..
 
Good to hear!

What size injectors you using?
Sounds like you need to use more PI and get the DI IDC down!
[doublepost=1533590755][/doublepost]Also, are you not worried about how crazy high your EGT's must be target g that lean an afr at WOT? 12.0 shouldn't lose you any power and be much safer..

They are only 530cc injectors, egts shouldnt be too high using e50 cylinder temps are what the real issue might be but still with 50% ethanol it should absorb a lot of heat. If i move much richer than i start losing fuel headroom and trust me 12.7 is plenty safe, i used to target 12.7 on e30 and never had any trouble.
 
Chiming in a few posts late but for real, mixing is so easy. Make note of how many total gallons go in if you fill at 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 and E lines and that's the hard work done. Just fill your 50/50 ratio on basis of that and g2g.

I mix at the pump and have to swipe the card twice, and even have to move pumps in between bc we have e85 on a standalone only. It's really no big effort for the fueling benefit.
 
Chiming in a few posts late but for real, mixing is so easy. Make note of how many total gallons go in if you fill at 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 and E lines and that's the hard work done. Just fill your 50/50 ratio on basis of that and g2g.

I mix at the pump and have to swipe the card twice, and even have to move pumps in between bc we have e85 on a standalone only. It's really no big effort for the fueling benefit.

That is a crazy amount of nonsense, do you daily drive your car doing that? I switched to pi so itd be less hassel. I know im a spoiled lazy ass for thinking thats a hassel.

I emailed back and forth with steve at vt a few years back about trying to find a way that an ethanol sensor could scale the injectors real time and he said they were working on it. When i asked cobb a couple years before that, they told me there wasnt enough ram in our computers to do anything like that.

I realize i made a mistake ordering such small injectors. When i ordered them i was just thinking about how on the 1j/2j we were able to make 500hp on the usdm 2j 550cc injectors and not once did i think well hey the 2j has 2 more cylinders and injectors or 1100cc more fuel. So im probably going to just roll with the current setup i have knowing that more power is just another fuel pump, map sensor and set of injectors away.
 
If you really think that's a hassle, then you should get an aux fuel cell with inline pumps for your meth. Heck, you can even use whatever you want in that fuel cell.
 
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