Died while driving. Will not start now.

VashEXE

VashEXE

ButtStallion Tuned
Greenie N00B Member
So, it's been a while since I've posted anything. Unfortunately, I'm seriously considering parting out or selling my car as it sits right now.

A little backstory:

I built the motor and replaced tons of stuff a while ago. See: Buttstallion Build . I've since been running for a long time with no issues whatsoever. Emissions time has rolled around and unfortunately my O2 sensor was not readying up. While driving the car around a bunch to try to get it all to ready up I was returning home and while in my neighborhood going like 5mpg, the car completely shut down and I had to roll to a stop. I pushed the car into my driveway and the nightmare began.

The Issue:

The car will crank, but will not fire up. No codes are thrown. My HPFP Act. Pressure is 23psi even after priming a few times by going KOEO a few times. I've replaced the MAF sensor, and Secondary O2 sensor during troubleshooting my Oxygen Sensor not readying up, but had been driving with those for over 1000 miles now, so I don't believe it has anything to do with those. I have cleaned the HPFP, tried a different HPFP Spill Valve, Replaced the PRV, Replaced the ITFP, checked the fuses (none are obviously burned out), unplugged the Split Second Controller and the 2 injectors on my coldpipe, checked my wiring and grounds, though I haven't gotten too deep into that besides cleaning contacts and making sure things are plugged in (ballast, coil ground, etc.).

Honestly I'm at a loss. My battery has drained a lot due to cranking and a lot of testing with no actual driving, so I'm charging that up tonight. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 
Stop throwing a bunch of parts at it trying to fix the issue.

Get a good fuel pressure gauge and see what pressure is going into the HPFP from the ITFP.

Then make sure all the wires are good between the ECU and the HPFP. Check all your grounds and check for corrosion.

If possible get a headlamp bulb and a power probe tool. Disconnect the ECU and the Spill valve, Fuel Pressure Sensor etc and apply power through each of their wires to see if the headlamp bulb can light up. Do not apply power to a wire with the ECU connected because you can burn the ECU up.
 
L337TurboZ said:
Stop throwing a bunch of parts at it trying to fix the issue.

Get a good fuel pressure gauge and see what pressure is going into the HPFP from the ITFP.

Then make sure all the wires are good between the ECU and the HPFP. Check all your grounds and check for corrosion.

If possible get a headlamp bulb and a power probe tool. Disconnect the ECU and the Spill valve, Fuel Pressure Sensor etc and apply power through each of their wires to see if the headlamp bulb can light up. Do not apply power to a wire with the ECU connected because you can burn the ECU up.
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I'll have to look more into this. I don't want to keep throwing shit at it for sure. They all have over 172k on them, so I figured the PRV finally failing wasn't too out of the question and then of course it snowballed into what it is now.

Easter Bunny said:
Try reseating the ECU connectors
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I forgot to mention I did do this and cleaned them up as well just to be sure. No dice on that.


Something that a handful of other folks are recommending is bypassing the ballast resistor completely. I haven't done that yet and it's free/easy, so I'll be doing that tonight as well. Will report back.
 
_Mazdarati said:
Check the Small ground that sits around the HPFP area
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Looked at that and even cleaned up the mounting point for it to make sure it was making a good connection and tightened it all back down. No dice. One of the first things I checked.
 
I would love to see your car get fixed. However, if you decide to part out, I will give you TOP dollar for your 5th port cold pipe.

Stupid question, have you checked the clutch pedal sensors?
 
Mauro_Penguin said:
I would love to see your car get fixed. However, if you decide to part out, I will give you TOP dollar for your 5th port cold pipe.

Stupid question, have you checked the clutch pedal sensors?
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Haven't checked the clutch pedal sensor, but the car does crank, so I didn't even think that would be a possibility. It detects when I'm holding the clutch down. Am I missing something here?
 
So, I tested the few things I said I would.

Freshly charged battery, no dice.
Fuel Pump Ballast Resistor Bypass, no dice.
Fuel Pump Relay Swap, no dice.
Checked all grounds again and remounted the Ballast Resistor harness, no dice.

One thing I noticed while trying to start up was when I am cranking, the car drops from 12.6v to 10v. I'm not sure if that's normal tbh because I have not ever watched battery voltage while cranking, but I was just monitoring that on my Eonon while cranking and watching other things on the AP. Still stuck at 20ish PSI for HPFP Act. Pressure. I do hear the fuel pump firing up and running while cranking and when going KOEO.
 
Not sure it’s helpful, but I had a similar issue that turned out to be crank position sensor related. No codes, cranked but wouldn’t start. The shop that keyed my crank pulley keyed it upside down so the crank position sensor was reading the teeth on the pulley wrong.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Just because you hear the fuel pump doesn't mean it has enough pressure. You need to check the actual fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge going into the HPFP

Once you verify that there is at least 40-60psi of fuel pressure going into the HPFP then you need to check the wiring like I said earlier.

You already threw a bunch of parts at the car trying to fix it. It's time to really diagnose why the HPFP is still showing 20 psi and not much more.

If all the wires test good by doing load tests with a headlamp bulb, the wires aren't shorted to ground or power, you replaced the parts with known good parts and there is no mechanical issue with HPFP operation then it could be a failed ECU. But you gotta eliminate all other factors first.

Check mechanical faults. Remove the valve cover, have an assistant crank the car and make sure the cam isn't broken. I doubt it is broken but you never know. Check for fuel leaks or pinched hoses.
 
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Aren’t you supposed to see 60+Psi for fuel pressure because of pressure coming from ITFP? If you’re only seeing 20, then you may have a bad ITFP or something between the sensor and the pump. I know you said you replaced it, but could you have possibly put in a dud?
 
_Mazdarati said:
Aren’t you supposed to see 60+Psi for fuel pressure because of pressure coming from ITFP? If you’re only seeing 20, then you may have a bad ITFP or something between the sensor and the pump. I know you said you replaced it, but could you have possibly put in a dud?
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^this. koeo you should see 55-61psi for hpfp. This would have nothing at all to due with the hpfp or any of its wiring. The itfp will charge the rail to at least 55-61psi without cranking at all. As mentioned above maybe another bad itfp or bad wiring to the pump maybe. If the wiring is no good and voltage is dropping that could explain why new pump also does work.

also consider your rail pressure sensor might be bad. Not sure if that would cause a no start though.
 
gotovato said:
^this. koeo you should see 55-61psi for hpfp. This would have nothing at all to due with the hpfp or any of its wiring. The itfp will charge the rail to at least 55-61psi without cranking at all. As mentioned above maybe another bad itfp or bad wiring to the pump maybe. If the wiring is no good and voltage is dropping that could explain why new pump also does work.

also consider your rail pressure sensor might be bad. Not sure if that would cause a no start though.
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This is why I suggested checking with a gauge and then verifying the wires for the HPFP, fuel pump and sensor are good.
 
gotovato said:
^this. koeo you should see 55-61psi for hpfp. This would have nothing at all to due with the hpfp or any of its wiring. The itfp will charge the rail to at least 55-61psi without cranking at all. As mentioned above maybe another bad itfp or bad wiring to the pump maybe. If the wiring is no good and voltage is dropping that could explain why new pump also does work.

also consider your rail pressure sensor might be bad. Not sure if that would cause a no start though.
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I’m glad something I said made sense
 
_Mazdarati said:
I’m glad something I said made sense
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Honestly, I replaced everything besides the harness and the fuel lines themselves between the ITFP and the HPFP which I pointed out originally.

I don't know that I buy that I just got unlucky and have the exact same issues with a brand new AEM ITFP and that it was DOA, but I am going to get a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up in-line before my HPFP.

I also have an ethanol sensor inline between my ITFP and HPFP and I'm wondering if that could maybe be clogged or something that effect. I'm going to try removing that from the mix as well, but that should really just be a straight through flow for the fuel. It's not like it opens and closes or anything.

I'll also be getting into multimeter hell over the weekend with the wiring like @L337TurboZ suggested, I just obviously was hoping not to get into that shit show.
 
VashEXE said:
Haven't checked the clutch pedal sensor, but the car does crank, so I didn't even think that would be a possibility. It detects when I'm holding the clutch down. Am I missing something here?
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Nope, reading fail on my part.

Sounds like you are headed in the right direction with the fuel issue though.
 
VashEXE said:
Honestly, I replaced everything besides the harness and the fuel lines themselves between the ITFP and the HPFP which I pointed out originally.

I don't know that I buy that I just got unlucky and have the exact same issues with a brand new AEM ITFP and that it was DOA, but I am going to get a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up in-line before my HPFP.

I also have an ethanol sensor inline between my ITFP and HPFP and I'm wondering if that could maybe be clogged or something that effect. I'm going to try removing that from the mix as well, but that should really just be a straight through flow for the fuel. It's not like it opens and closes or anything.

I'll also be getting into multimeter hell over the weekend with the wiring like @L337TurboZ suggested, I just obviously was hoping not to get into that shit show.
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Think about it. Itfp has NOTHING to do with hpfp. It’s simply a lift pump. You could pull the whole hpfp assembly out of the car. Leave the cam lobe sticking out. Koeo and you will have 60psi shooting out all over from the fire wall. Wiring on your itfp specially if you’ve been running an aftermarket pump for some time and it’s pulling additional current through oem wiring. This is common on other platforms. Maybe not ours but it’s worth investigating. Maybe the wiring is fine. But 60psi you should have. Mechanical gauge will tell all.

Easy test for itfp. Run a wire from your battery directly to the pump and just hard wire that bitch. If you see 60psi then you know it’s a wiring issue. If still 20psi then it’s something else.
 
gotovato said:
Think about it. Itfp has NOTHING to do with hpfp. It’s simply a lift pump. You could pull the whole hpfp assembly out of the car. Leave the cam lobe sticking out. Koeo and you will have 60psi shooting out all over from the fire wall. Wiring on your itfp specially if you’ve been running an aftermarket for some time and it’s pulling additional current through oem wiring. This is common on other platforms. Maybe not ours but it’s worth investigating. Maybe the wiring is fine. But 60psi you should have. Mechanical gauge will tell all.
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I definitely don't disagree there. I just don't necessarily think the pump is DOA is all I'm saying. I agree 100% that I should be seeing 50-60psi no matter what after going KOEO. I need to get some AN fittings to get a gauge hooked inline before the HPFP, so that'll prolly be this weekend. Tonight I'll check wiring and all that stuff a bit deeper.
 
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