Duratec port injection in Speed6

Rustyms3

Greenie N00B Member
Greenie Member
I user by the name of Troubled81 has a thread similar to this but has gone silent. I’m not going the same path so I figure I’d post what I’m trying to achieve and where I’m currently at.
I’ve owned quite a few speeds but currently just own two speed 6’s. A 06 and 07. I picked up the 06 for 500 bucks clean title rust free. Engine runs but I’m looking at something much bigger. Originally I was going to modify my very clean 07 but have since realized what I would be ruining.
Currently have a 2.5 dura and a 2.3 on the engine stand.
I want to ditch the entire DI system and runs stand alone ecu capable of my needs without having 3-4 different systems and controllers in the cars like most speeds are.

I recently figured out how I can go “stand-alone” while keeping the basic interior functions such as (cluster, a/c, and more if the BCM is happy). I’ll be doing a piggyback setup with either a Haltech 550 or 950. Ive never done a piggyback installation but with the 327 pages of electrical diagrams and pin outs I’m thinking about giving it a go. Im also trying to figure out how I’m gonna drown this engine with the appropriate fuel without sacrificing idle and drivability. Currently looking into how and if an ecu could selectively run two sets of injectors. A smaller set in the stock 2.5 port location and a large set that would reside in the 2.3/2.5 adapter plate sold by Damond. From what I can tell that flange is just a port matcher/spacer. (Same bolt pattern).
The 2.5 hybrid isn’t quite figured out yet as I was originally going to run 2.3 rods and crank. The 2.3 wrist pins are 22.5mm dia where the 2.5s are 21mm dia. I’ve looked into forged 2.5 rods and the choices are slim. Found a company by the name of Molnar that sell a set for 400+. They don’t state any sort of hp capability although not a big deal I’m still skeptical. This thread will be a long winded one maybe stretching into the winter months. Hope y’all are down for the ride. I’ll try to post everything I learn or have issues with.
 
Just an update on narrowing down ecu choices. Haltech 550 or 950 was the original thought. I found out that both of those ecu’s don’t support DBW. I very well could delete the DBW and go with a cable setup, but I do enjoy the variability and safety that DBW provides. The two ecu’s I’ve currently settled on are the Haltech 1500 and the ms3 diy with DBW controller. The megasquirt controller has been on back order for a couple months so that steers me away from megasquirt. The Haltech lacks simple switches outputs for the $1400 price point but has four open DPO’s. (Digital pulsed outputs) I’ve only soldered one megasquirt board so I’m no ecu expert. so don’t let me ever fool you about experience. I’m just willing to screw up.

Just a side note I’m currently putting a motor in a 6 wagon so I’ll start disassembling that 2.3 and 2.5 after I get the wagon situated.
 
Just an update. Almost have the wagon situated. Blew up 6.0 powerstroke, full-time college and a full time job have been keeping my free time down. Looking at building the engine while I have the 6.0 apart too. Sell the wagon and start buying parts. I’ll post up a engine parts list when I start ordering later this year. Might not hear from me till then. Have a good holiday season yall.
 

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Look for a cheap used MS system for a Miata. It's a 4 cylinder with the same amount of I/O that a factory ECU uses.
 
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I user by the name of Troubled81 has a thread similar to this but has gone silent. I’m not going the same path so I figure I’d post what I’m trying to achieve and where I’m currently at.
I’ve owned quite a few speeds but currently just own two speed 6’s. A 06 and 07. I picked up the 06 for 500 bucks clean title rust free. Engine runs but I’m looking at something much bigger. Originally I was going to modify my very clean 07 but have since realized what I would be ruining.
Currently have a 2.5 dura and a 2.3 on the engine stand.
I want to ditch the entire DI system and runs stand alone ecu capable of my needs without having 3-4 different systems and controllers in the cars like most speeds are.

I recently figured out how I can go “stand-alone” while keeping the basic interior functions such as (cluster, a/c, and more if the BCM is happy). I’ll be doing a piggyback setup with either a Haltech 550 or 950. Ive never done a piggyback installation but with the 327 pages of electrical diagrams and pin outs I’m thinking about giving it a go. Im also trying to figure out how I’m gonna drown this engine with the appropriate fuel without sacrificing idle and drivability. Currently looking into how and if an ecu could selectively run two sets of injectors. A smaller set in the stock 2.5 port location and a large set that would reside in the 2.3/2.5 adapter plate sold by Damond. From what I can tell that flange is just a port matcher/spacer. (Same bolt pattern).
The 2.5 hybrid isn’t quite figured out yet as I was originally going to run 2.3 rods and crank. The 2.3 wrist pins are 22.5mm dia where the 2.5s are 21mm dia. I’ve looked into forged 2.5 rods and the choices are slim. Found a company by the name of Molnar that sell a set for 400+. They don’t state any sort of hp capability although not a big deal I’m still skeptical. This thread will be a long winded one maybe stretching into the winter months. Hope y’all are down for the ride. I’ll try to post everything I learn or have issues with.
Sp63 has pistons and rods for a 2.5 crank capable of making like 690 to the front wheels on e50. Of course with the di system but you can use their bottom end components. https://www.speedperf6rmanc3.com/categories/sp63-duratec-mzr-2-5l.html
Template public:_media_site_embed_youtube not found. Try rebuilding or reinstalling the s9e/MediaSites add-on.
 
Just an update on narrowing down ecu choices. Haltech 550 or 950 was the original thought. I found out that both of those ecu’s don’t support DBW. I very well could delete the DBW and go with a cable setup, but I do enjoy the variability and safety that DBW provides. The two ecu’s I’ve currently settled on are the Haltech 1500 and the ms3 diy with DBW controller. The megasquirt controller has been on back order for a couple months so that steers me away from megasquirt. The Haltech lacks simple switches outputs for the $1400 price point but has four open DPO’s. (Digital pulsed outputs) I’ve only soldered one megasquirt board so I’m no ecu expert. so don’t let me ever fool you about experience. I’m just willing to screw up.

Just a side note I’m currently putting a motor in a 6 wagon so I’ll start disassembling that 2.3 and 2.5 after I get the wagon situated.

I know I'm 2+ years behind on this...
What did you end up with for your throttle controller?
My 2.5 swapped Mazda5 is currently running on MS3 Pro, but ended up ordering this controller in hopes the throttle plays nice...
DBW Throttle controller - LDperformance
 
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