Awafrican
Moderator
I gotchu https://www.google.com/search?q=har...droid-samsung&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8Do you have a link to the unit from Harbor Freight? Might pick it up just for peace of mind.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
I gotchu https://www.google.com/search?q=har...droid-samsung&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8Do you have a link to the unit from Harbor Freight? Might pick it up just for peace of mind.
Yea I've never had that issue on the speed3 either especially if you squeeze the lower rad hose a little. Then over the next little bit I just open up the res after or before a drive and top off, no issuesI’ve emptied and refilled the radiator two different times on my MS6 and didn’t have any issues getting the air out. The second time I even did it quite lazily. I’ve read about others having issues and I wonder what the difference is.
I’ve emptied and refilled the radiator two different times on my MS6 and didn’t have any issues getting the air out. The second time I even did it quite lazily. I’ve read about others having issues and I wonder what the difference is.
I'm in FL with a CS rad, with sealed off radiator (likely along what Mr EarMgcee would suggest) and I don't cruse above 200 deg F even in this humidity.
Turn the a/c on to ~3 or 4 degrees below ambient and see if it kick on the fan more often.
(Disclaimer I have more cooling going on that just the radiator)
This is the link (DIY: Radiator Ducting Gen1 (FMIC woes) | Mazdaspeeds.org, The New Era in Mazdaspeed, CX-7 & Ecoboost Forums!) for how you can make the side ducting, it's really only effective if you get your undertray in place and seal off everywhere else you can as well (like with this: JBR Raider's Air Damn for Gen1 Mazdaspeed 3 #MS3-AIR-DAMN - Revolution Performance Motorsports! (therpmstore.com)Do you have pictures of your setup? I just installed the Cobb FMIC and am having my coolant temps 10-15 degrees higher as a result. I'm looking at making some ducting, so just looking for some ideas. I'm based in Texas, so I have to deal with the 100+ degree ambient temps.
Did you consider upgrading the stock coolant radiator as well?
I've been looking at that thread as well, thanks. Some good pictures in there. I have a Gen2, so that part doesn't work for mine. Do the Gen2's need the top sealed off the same way? Looking at mine above the rad it's not even close to being as open as the Gen1.This is the link (DIY: Radiator Ducting Gen1 (FMIC woes) | Mazdaspeeds.org, The New Era in Mazdaspeed, CX-7 & Ecoboost Forums!) for how you can make the side ducting, it's really only effective if you get your undertray in place and seal off everywhere else you can as well (like with this: JBR Raider's Air Damn for Gen1 Mazdaspeed 3 #MS3-AIR-DAMN - Revolution Performance Motorsports! (therpmstore.com)
On a Gen2 you probably don't since it lacks the under-hood ducting of the Gen1. I would try the undertray and side pieces, that by itself should make a noticeable difference. I have a TR8 with all the ducting in place and it's extremely solid, echoing all the points in the thread. I wouldn't bother with an aftermarket radiator unless you really want to. I have tracked my car with the current setup which is stock radiator, for 25 minute solid lapping sessions without exceeding 219F in 85F weather.I've been looking at that thread as well, thanks. Some good pictures in there. I have a Gen2, so that part doesn't work for mine. Do the Gen2's need the top sealed off the same way? Looking at mine above the rad it's not even close to being as open as the Gen1.
I would try the undertray and side pieces, that by itself should make a noticeable difference.