Frick Remans - Going Built

StayFrausty

StayFrausty

Frok
Greenie N00B Member
Alright so this is the start of my build thread. Ive never used any forum ever, I always just lurked when msf was around so bare with me lmao.

This is the second motor that has been in the car. Original lasted about 115k, my dad owned it new till about 109k, I was about "stage 2" and beat the shit out of it, developed rod knock that I thot was VVT, and I still decided to race my friends GT (gapped him btw) but that was the last straw for that motor lmao. anyways, a week later

(brace yourself)

I got a Reman... i didn't realise how bad of a rep they got until after we got it so yea. anyways first pull I did i got a shit ton of KR and any WOT pull above 5k i would peg kr. went BNR S4 (smart right) and e30 and the knock kind of went away but I still get a sizeable amount on some WOT pulls. turns out cyl 3 was scarred/pitted to shit. I looked at it with a boroscope and it was in rough shape compared to the other pistons. yah shut up I know, im stupid asf, but now im only half as stupid so I have more options.

So this brings me to now, im tired of not being able to WOT, I probably haven't been really on the car in about 6 months.

SO the obvious choice is to build the motor :)

Keep in mind, this is my first car, ive had it for a little over a year, when I got it I didn't even know how to CHECK my own oil. So going from that to building a motor is pretty coo I guess. Im pretty much just following @JohnnyTightlips build thread along with help from some other people (MSdiscord)

Just like him im not in any rush to finish this. I wanna do it once and I wanna do it right. if all goes well ill never have to drop a motor out of this car ever again...okay for a while atleast

so yea that pretty much sums it up, heres a pic of the crank, girdle, shortblock and oil pan that I got the other day for 200 dollhares. quite a steal if I do say so myself
 

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I forgot to mention what the build will consist of.
blocks gonna be bored to 88mm
Manley H Beam rods
Manley 2618 pistons
Oem head gasket
Mahle clevite rod bearings
Oem main bearings

and then idk if I wanna stick with oem headstuds or get the better ones (arp or the l19 whatever)
Cause I don’t THINK I’m gonna push 500whp, not anytime soon. But like what if I get to 450whp and it sucks balls you know?

Anyways, pretty standard build
 
IMO if you're tossing in clevite rod bearings then match them with the freektune H11 headstuds, that being said OEM studs are probably fine for 450whp not sure about the 500. The H11 will allow you for far more than 500 if wanted, that being said don't forget that cometic head gasket
 
That's the ticket. Unless your budget absolutely cannot afford to include them, or you are dead fucking certain that your end goal lies at or below 500, go with the beefier hardware to futureproof yourself.
 
Well gee goly willikers or whatever they used to say.

my blocks at the machine shop :)

Finally making some progress on this dead ass build thread. Gonna be buying my internals from graveyard next Friday when I get paid. Don’t mind my friends 2j, we don’t talk to 6cyls A6485C43-C989-4934-9B50-58D300789D69.jpeg

Oh also I got these bad boys new for like 400 bucks shipped lmao, couldn’t pass it upFD07BFC7-FF3B-41BB-AC8B-41292CDD7E85.jpeg
 
So as I’m buying my rods and pistons and shit next Friday I started researching piston ring gap. That’s one of the only things that still confuses me when building a motor. I know too tight and you’ll fuk ur shit and too loose you’ll lose compression/burn oil. I don’t wanna do either of those haha.

so I know JT runs .022 top and .024 bottom.
Some other dude said he ran .020 top and .024 bottom. And then you guys talked about it with drew and he said that sho said 550+ 36psi should be around .020 top .022 bottom.

my end goal is mid 500s definitely no more than 600. Returnless PI. Although, I will be maxing out the stock fuel system for a little bit until I save for PI and a bigger turbo.
So granted I want to make like 100whp less than JT I assume I should run a tad tighter such as the .020 top .022 bottom?

I know this has been asked a few times but as well as wanting an answer/discussion, I also want to have this here for reference for myself later cause ima forget this shit lmao.
 
StayFrausty said:
So as I’m buying my rods and pistons and shit next Friday I started researching piston ring gap. That’s one of the only things that still confuses me when building a motor. I know too tight and you’ll fuk ur shit and too loose you’ll lose compression/burn oil. I don’t wanna do either of those haha.

so I know JT runs .022 top and .024 bottom.
Some other dude said he ran .020 top and .024 bottom. And then you guys talked about it with drew and he said that sho said 550+ 36psi should be around .020 top .022 bottom.

my end goal is mid 500s definitely no more than 600. Returnless PI. Although, I will be maxing out the stock fuel system for a little bit until I save for PI and a bigger turbo.
So granted I want to make like 100whp less than JT I assume I should run a tad tighter such as the .020 top .022 bottom?

I know this has been asked a few times but as well as wanting an answer/discussion, I also want to have this here for reference for myself later cause ima forget this shit lmao.
Click to expand...
Looking forward to seeing this build!

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
B63919B0-88C6-43FE-B2DB-1C7DB07DA602.jpeg Whole of the short block pretty much arrived, still need headstuds but H11s are out of stock as far as I know. I’ll get l19s worst case. Also need the cometic head gasket and I’ll probably try out that cometic timing gasket that JT used.

these parts are purrrtyyy
 
So @drew10101010 just ruined my night by dropping knowledge on me that the regular wrist pins on the Manley 2618s would not be good for 600+

so now I’m probably going to return them and get the extreme duty.

fuck you drew
 
StayFrausty said:
So @drew10101010 just ruined my night by dropping knowledge on me that the regular wrist pins on the Manley 2618s would not be good for 600+

so now I’m probably going to return them and get the extreme duty.

fuck you drew
Click to expand...
You should not have issues unless you plan to go way past 600 and rev to 8k. 600 is dumb power for the street and fwd, ask me how I know. @Sho was making close to 600 for a very very long time on standard size wrist pins. You also might want to look at the cometic head gasket and not OEM head studs if your plan is to make over 500 reliably.
 
JohnnyTightlips said:
You should not have issues unless you plan to go way past 600 and rev to 8k. 600 is dumb power for the street and fwd, ask me how I know. @Sho was making close to 600 for a very very long time on standard size wrist pins. You also might want to look at the cometic head gasket and not OEM head studs if your plan is to make over 500 reliably.
Click to expand...


Hmm, thanks JT.
Yea that build list is kinda out of date. I’m getting either h11s or l19s and I’m getting the cometic gasket.
Yea I’m not trying to go way past 600 but hitting that would be kinda cool.

Thanks for the reassurance
 
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