Gen 1 brake booster check valve
- Thread starter Jimme T
- Start date
I could be very much wrong here but this is what it looks like.
https://www.mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/brakes-get-really-stiff-after-accelerating.11771/
That's a good starting point. While in the end was a right side driver car, answers are in thread
That's a good starting point. While in the end was a right side driver car, answers are in thread
What do you recommend for valve cleaning then? Is there another product you like or would you just say to walnut blast or similar?
Yeah it's called b-12 chemtool and you clean the valves with basically a weapon cleaning kit instead. I guess this counts as "or similar" so no there isn't another without being similar but you don't have to blast them
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/how-to-clean-your-valves.9851/
Common dude you've been around here long enough to know how to search for valve cleaning and in that search you should have found that seafoam doesn't actually do shit for out intake valves.
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/how-to-clean-your-valves.9851/
Common dude you've been around here long enough to know how to search for valve cleaning and in that search you should have found that seafoam doesn't actually do shit for out intake valves.
There is no substitute for a walnut blast, and with all the tools and How-Tos out there, it isn't hard at all. How to Clean Your Intake Valves | CorkSport Mazda Performance Blog
I would let the b12 sit for an hour+ despite Corksport saying 30-40 minutes purely because it basically helps to gaurantee walnut blast success. Prep well and the cleanup is minimal, throw a catch can in there while you have the IM off, badda bing badda boom.
So while I had known that HAD to clean injectors / valves. Got supplies walnuts (on-line), better harbor freight media blaster... Then of course, decided to rebuild motor...
Not from any one problem just random things, kr, idle speeds, idle air fault codes..
So started taking apart using the threads help and guidance...since that close and a bought off a member a CS injector puller...stock style injector seals are really cheap....started pulling fuel manifold..This injector fell out!!!! Wonder what my problem was?????!!!!!!¡
Rest were hard from baked seals, all looked ugly. Sent out to have injector cleaning flow check done all were great. Now I know the job was done and can forget that maybe a cause. The last pic shows when you take apart stuff you may find previous owner left you a bonus problem....yes that would cause some air problems
)
Not from any one problem just random things, kr, idle speeds, idle air fault codes..
So started taking apart using the threads help and guidance...since that close and a bought off a member a CS injector puller...stock style injector seals are really cheap....started pulling fuel manifold..This injector fell out!!!! Wonder what my problem was?????!!!!!!¡
Rest were hard from baked seals, all looked ugly. Sent out to have injector cleaning flow check done all were great. Now I know the job was done and can forget that maybe a cause. The last pic shows when you take apart stuff you may find previous owner left you a bonus problem....yes that would cause some air problems
)
I had the opposite problem while I saw some evidence of leaking injectors and they were dirty dirty mine would not come loose without the puller. Even with OEM sealsSo while I had known that HAD to clean injectors / valves. Got supplies walnuts (on-line), better harbor freight media blaster... Then of course, decided to rebuild motor...
Not from any one problem just random things, kr, idle speeds, idle air fault codes..
So started taking apart using the threads help and guidance...since that close and a bought off a member a CS injector puller...stock style injector seals are really cheap....started pulling fuel manifold..This injector fell out!!!! Wonder what my problem was?????!!!!!!¡
Rest were hard from baked seals, all looked ugly. Sent out to have injector cleaning flow check done all were great. Now I know the job was done and can forget that maybe a cause. The last pic shows when you take apart stuff you may find previous owner left you a bonus problem....yes that would cause some air problems
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Would you say the same about all of those types of things? Such as the CRC intake valve cleaner and similar?
I’m not meaning to say that walnut blasting isn’t best, just wanting to gather info. (It’s fairly amusing I get a downvote for asking a simple question!)
Nothing works as we are not port injected. Walnut blast is just hands down the best.
As far as I’ve seen, I don’t disagree that walnut blasting is the best. I’ve seen videos of the results and it looks terrific.
I’m only asking because I’ve seen some videos claiming things like seafoam or CRC work to some degree on direct injection engines, with some limited ‘evidence’. I’ve never used products like those. Just gathering information because I’m sure I’ll need to deal with dirty valves at some point.
They don't work. If it did, we wouldn't be blasting.
When you see the insanely tough buildup that won't even fully loosen after 30 minutes of B12 soaking, there is no way anything but a solid physical remover is benefitting the valves. (or Meth)
Literally all the threads talking about seafoam on here all have the same sentiment: clean your valves properly by blasting them or atleast mechanically cleaning like in the thread I posted earlier... same info as here...search
https://www.google.com/search?q=seafoam+site:mazdaspeeds.org&oq=&aqs=chrome.0.69i59i450l5.-1j0j1&client=ms-android-google&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8
also a quick Google search of seafoam brings this up https://askcarmechanic.com/the-truth-about-seafoam-negative-effects/
https://www.google.com/search?q=seafoam+site:mazdaspeeds.org&oq=&aqs=chrome.0.69i59i450l5.-1j0j1&client=ms-android-google&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8
also a quick Google search of seafoam brings this up https://askcarmechanic.com/the-truth-about-seafoam-negative-effects/