hoodratkp's MS6

hoodratkp said:
Nice! You were busy as a mf last night. I'll check out the photo dump here in a few. And yea taking a step back has been nice, honestly. Been hard to maintain patience but feeling refreshed to go back in after a few days away. Grabbed a double din screen display and some aftermarket speakers as well to sling in there for s&gs.


What meet is on 4/20?! Sounds like my kind of place :tearsofjoy:
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It's the season opener car meet in Spokane Washington, its about 3hrs from me. Weed is legal there and here, so that will be a thing to.

And yes, stepping back is good.

Busy busy, I did get a bunch done though.
 
So first always remove the alignment tool and use a wrench on the cam to hold it in place

Second if there isn't a crack running up the cam I would run it people have in the past. You just need to be more careful about ensuring the cam is aligned properly
 
Easter Bunny said:
So first always remove the alignment tool and use a wrench on the cam to hold it in place

Second if there isn't a crack running up the cam I would run it people have in the past. You just need to be more careful about ensuring the cam is aligned properly
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I thoroughly enjoy two engineers responses, showed it to the aerospace engineer I work for and he goes "well you could run it, once"
 
i mean that end of the cam is only there to set the timing so if the timing is set then run it.

i also work in construction where we apply a 1.5 factor of safety to everything at every step along the way leading me to be much more laissez-faire than the typical engineer
 
Isnt the shaft unbalanced now? So the bearings will take a beating and the shaft itself (before it goes into the bearing) will see increased cyclical loading?
 
It's so small and so close to the centerline it wouldn't be the same as an unbalanced wheel but it will be out of balance now. Assuming they were actually balanced in the first place
 
I told him to run it. I did the same thing my first time job. Seen it more than once. Balance won't be an issue because of the cam cap being so close.
 
Well I sent it with the cam in. And still not starting. Exact same as before. Definitely fucked something up just don’t know how because everything seemed to line up where it should with timing. So with that being said I it’s going to need to be torn apart again either way. Do I need to replace both cams if doing one? Or can I do just exhaust side?

and then the sprocket and bolt etc in the end of the cam…. Do I need to order replacement of those as well? Don’t know if they were re usable. If I can get away with not buying the full kit from corksport and just the cams would probably just go that route if need to replace both. Not a huge difference from OEM price
 
its ok man, do a compression test. then lest go from there.
 
Alright I’m back. Timing is 100% correct. Now my issue is I am not getting spark. All my grounds are in place and have repaired two of them but got nothing. Fuses all look fine from what I can tell. Replaced the position sensor as well for troubleshooting. Feeling fairly confident that it’s electrical at this point just a matter of where. Any ideas anyone on common break points? Any Other options than checking every wire?


One wire I haven’t figured out i put a picture of here. Appears to be grounded but don’t know where this blue end is supposed to go. Thought it may have had something ti do with lights but not sure. Don’t think it was connected to anything when vehicle was originally running either so could be irrelevant.
 

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@Rokusek @Easter Bunny Getting OBD B1342 code now. Assuming that the ECU is bad. Is buying a used one acceptable or what is your recommendation? And would I be able to flash the ECU myself or would I have to go through the whole tuning process etc with PD or someone?

Or is it possible to repair the current ECU? If so, where would I start for that?
 
Disconnect the battery then disconnect the ecu check that all the wires are still in the connectors then reconnect sometimes the ecu connectors get pulled a bit and cause weird shit
 
Idk how I missed the previous comment. That wire should be for power steering. I'll have to get back to you on the rest this evening. Been crazy at work lately.
 
Appreciate you fellas. I'll fuck with the ECU cables and stuff and just verify all of those look good. What're the chances that the ECU itself is actually toast? Is that a common thing? It was fine prior to doing any work.

Getting close to giving up at this point unfortunately. Something has to give so I have a way to get to work. My other beater commuter vehicle has decided to die so my only ride to work is the motorcycle. Which is fine as long as the weather is nice. Just FUCK. nahmean
 
An ecu dying like never happened but there have been a couple recently probably going to start happening more as the cars get older
 
What happened after you confirmed timing and before you got this CEL? What did you do differently? Can you revert back to that point?
 
Rokusek said:
What happened after you confirmed timing and before you got this CEL? What did you do differently? Can you revert back to that point?
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The only thing that I have done is got the timing set, fixed those two ground wires, and then put back together. Tried to start the car after I got it back together, had no spark, so just ordered the scanner and that's all I got. I wouldn't know where to revert to.

Would it be possible that having only 500 CCA battery is causing any issues with getting the power it needs? Could it just not be getting enough juice? I bought a cheap ass battery so I didn't keep killing my good Duracell battery. Grasping at straws. This is the only real thing that I can think is different now from the time it was originally running.
 
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if you dont have a full charge on the battery the car will do all kinds of weird shit.

i have successfully started my car with battery voltage around 11.5 though (used a jump pack to start but it ran fine once disconnected)
 
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