NavysailorMS3
Greenie Member
Intake Manifold, Fuel Rail, Injector Removal
Tools needed:
Ratchets
Extensions
Swivels
Pliers
Sockets: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
T40 Torx bit
First off, I have a front mount, which really in not any different than a top mount for this job. So for me, I had to remove my IC piping from the turbo as well as from the throttle body so that I can remove the IM out altogether. But if you still have a TMIC, then you will have to remove the TMIC which I will not go over since I don’t have one, but I am sure that if you are taking on this project them you already know how to remove the TMIC.
Once you have the piping or TMIC removed, next you want to remove the vacuum thing that is right on top of the manifold: 8mm Bolts (4), a clip, and a hose.
Next you will need to remove the power steering pump. For this, you will first need to remove the serpentine belt via the tensioner pulley with a 14mm. Then remove 3 bolts (12mm) holding the PS pump (the top left one, once backed out will not be removed completely). The third one is hidden below but the arrow shows you where it is below. Pull the PS pump forward slightly and tilt is to the left to expose one of the hidden IM bolts.
Now it time to remove the throttle body. There are 4 bolts (8mm) that is connecting it to the IM. The 2 red circle are the bolts you can see, the 2 blue circles are for the other 2 bolts that you cannot see in the picture but it’s relative to where it should be. Just go ahead and set it aside. Also, I have a coolant bypass which I believe might make a difference. If anyone can chime in on whether or not there is an extra step without a coolant bypass, please post up.
Now it’s time to remove the IM. There are 3 clips to the left of the IM near the PS pump that need to come undone. Also, the Map sensor (forgot to grab that picture) which is on the left front side of the IM needs to come off as well as a bolt holding the dip stick in. I believe both of them are (8mm). Also, there are two hoses that need to be removed (in the picture the blue circle is where the red clip is and the blue arrow shows where the blue clip should be relative to the picture). For the red clip, just push down on the red clip and pull up on the hose, and for the blue clip, just pry it off and pull the hose off. In the throttle body picture, I have green circles showing where the hoses attach. Once all of that has been removed there are 5 bolts (10mm) that need to come out. I took 2 pictures to show you where all of the bolts are but the right most bolt is hidden behind the runner and I put a red circle where it should be relative to the photo. Once all the bolts are out, lean the manifold forward and you will see your PCV hose, go ahead and remove the hose. You should now be able to move the IM out of the way to expose the Fuel rail.
From what I remember there should be a fuel rail bracket, but I no longer have in in my car so I will skip this step but I believe there are two bolt, don’t know the bolt size, that need to be remove so that the bracket can be removed.
Now it’s time to work on removing the fuel rail. There are 5 bolts (10mm) that need to come out, which are in the red circles. There are 2 bolts (10mm) connecting the fuel rail to the fuel line that are in the blue circle. And finally there is a hose with a yellow clip that needs to be removed which in in the yellow circle. Just pry the yellow clip off, but be careful and don’t lose it or break it. At this point you will need to pull the fuel rail off of the injectors. Which won’t come out easy, it will require some elbow grease. Also, the fuel line that connects to the fuel rail needs to be pulled to the right a little bit to be able to clear.
Finally, it’s time to remove the injectors. The green circle indicate where the torx bolts are and a T40 torx bit is required. In my case it’s just studs and nuts, so I didn’t need torx bit but OEM are torx bolts. Be careful not to lose the washer once you remove the bolt as you will see they are unique. Now it’s a matter of pulling out the injector with the crows feet at the same time. Some come out with ease and some require some elbow grease. CPE has a slid hammer that works if you can get your hand on one of those, it will make it easier to pull out the injector.
You have now removed your IM, fuel rail, and injectors. When putting back together, just work the instructions backwards and you should be fine. If I have missed anything or if there are tips that I have missed, please post up so I can have this as updated as possible.
Tools needed:
Ratchets
Extensions
Swivels
Pliers
Sockets: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
T40 Torx bit
First off, I have a front mount, which really in not any different than a top mount for this job. So for me, I had to remove my IC piping from the turbo as well as from the throttle body so that I can remove the IM out altogether. But if you still have a TMIC, then you will have to remove the TMIC which I will not go over since I don’t have one, but I am sure that if you are taking on this project them you already know how to remove the TMIC.
Once you have the piping or TMIC removed, next you want to remove the vacuum thing that is right on top of the manifold: 8mm Bolts (4), a clip, and a hose.
Next you will need to remove the power steering pump. For this, you will first need to remove the serpentine belt via the tensioner pulley with a 14mm. Then remove 3 bolts (12mm) holding the PS pump (the top left one, once backed out will not be removed completely). The third one is hidden below but the arrow shows you where it is below. Pull the PS pump forward slightly and tilt is to the left to expose one of the hidden IM bolts.
Now it time to remove the throttle body. There are 4 bolts (8mm) that is connecting it to the IM. The 2 red circle are the bolts you can see, the 2 blue circles are for the other 2 bolts that you cannot see in the picture but it’s relative to where it should be. Just go ahead and set it aside. Also, I have a coolant bypass which I believe might make a difference. If anyone can chime in on whether or not there is an extra step without a coolant bypass, please post up.
Now it’s time to remove the IM. There are 3 clips to the left of the IM near the PS pump that need to come undone. Also, the Map sensor (forgot to grab that picture) which is on the left front side of the IM needs to come off as well as a bolt holding the dip stick in. I believe both of them are (8mm). Also, there are two hoses that need to be removed (in the picture the blue circle is where the red clip is and the blue arrow shows where the blue clip should be relative to the picture). For the red clip, just push down on the red clip and pull up on the hose, and for the blue clip, just pry it off and pull the hose off. In the throttle body picture, I have green circles showing where the hoses attach. Once all of that has been removed there are 5 bolts (10mm) that need to come out. I took 2 pictures to show you where all of the bolts are but the right most bolt is hidden behind the runner and I put a red circle where it should be relative to the photo. Once all the bolts are out, lean the manifold forward and you will see your PCV hose, go ahead and remove the hose. You should now be able to move the IM out of the way to expose the Fuel rail.
From what I remember there should be a fuel rail bracket, but I no longer have in in my car so I will skip this step but I believe there are two bolt, don’t know the bolt size, that need to be remove so that the bracket can be removed.
Now it’s time to work on removing the fuel rail. There are 5 bolts (10mm) that need to come out, which are in the red circles. There are 2 bolts (10mm) connecting the fuel rail to the fuel line that are in the blue circle. And finally there is a hose with a yellow clip that needs to be removed which in in the yellow circle. Just pry the yellow clip off, but be careful and don’t lose it or break it. At this point you will need to pull the fuel rail off of the injectors. Which won’t come out easy, it will require some elbow grease. Also, the fuel line that connects to the fuel rail needs to be pulled to the right a little bit to be able to clear.
Finally, it’s time to remove the injectors. The green circle indicate where the torx bolts are and a T40 torx bit is required. In my case it’s just studs and nuts, so I didn’t need torx bit but OEM are torx bolts. Be careful not to lose the washer once you remove the bolt as you will see they are unique. Now it’s a matter of pulling out the injector with the crows feet at the same time. Some come out with ease and some require some elbow grease. CPE has a slid hammer that works if you can get your hand on one of those, it will make it easier to pull out the injector.
You have now removed your IM, fuel rail, and injectors. When putting back together, just work the instructions backwards and you should be fine. If I have missed anything or if there are tips that I have missed, please post up so I can have this as updated as possible.
