JohnnyTightlips Build "Maximum Carnage"

[JohnnyTightlips]

How much cheaper are spark plugs that you guys are buying them on eBay?

I bought them off amazon, never gotten them off ebay. Price was not a factor, more so prime shipping and easy.

A better question is why would you cheap out on something so important? Y'all gettin your tires, brakes, and airbags off ebay too?

The main reason I went with those injectors was that multiple people had used them with success. I was not so lucky. Ebay does sell legitimate parts as well. I bought my precision wastegate from there.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

How much cheaper are spark plugs that you guys are buying them on eBay?

I think they are buying the injectors off ebay not the spark plugs.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

I bought them off amazon, never gotten them off ebay. Price was not a factor, more so prime shipping and easy.


The main reason I went with those injectors was that multiple people had used them with success. I was not so lucky. Ebay does sell legitimate parts as well. I bought my precision wastegate from there.

Ebay and Amazon have decent stuff too you just have to know which companies actually put out a decent product. Even then, sometimes there will be something wrong even from reputable big name companies too so there’s always room for issues no matter the brand.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Tiny Update:
Got the oil changed yesterday "Royal Purple 5w30 dex gen2" and I did not notice a ton of fuel in the oil so that was nice. I did notice the stupid oil cooler seal that is notorious for being garbage is leaking so I need to fix that before it mist my entire engine with oil. After the oil change the car fired right up and idled nicely. The fuel pump "in tank" is still making some strange noises at idle "sounds like a rock tumbler" the lightest blip of throttle fixes it. I am wondering if my gauge on my FPR is not accurate and am looking at getting a newer digital one so I can see what it is doing in the cabin. Plan is to cap off the PI rail so it can't leak any air even if current injector is still open, then do a quick test drive to see if that helps. I am still waiting on new plugs as well.

I did also notice my OCC lines are starting to look old and show cracking, anyone got some links to what I can replace them with? I have the JBR kit I got from @alexwlwsn many moons ago.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Tiny Update:
I capped off the PI rail and LTFT is at 3% after putting around a while so that is solid. I still can not really get into boost without it bogging which the logs how nothing so I am thinking spark plugs still. I was still getting some strange noise from the fuel pump so I did some more investigating.

I noticed that the return line was pulsing with the sounds. It felt like it was flowing too much for idle and that was making the line really noisy. I also notice as the return line goes up back into the gas tank the pulsing would cause it to tap the tank and make a drum like sound. I put some rubber on that part of the return line so that it does not do that any more but I still had the noise it was just more focused up front rather than in the back as well.


So since it seemed like maybe the FPR was still too high I did some tinkering. I used the torque app for rail pressure and felt the return line at the same time while I adjust pressure. 40 with a vac line on seems to be the sweet spot at least on my gauge. This cured any strange pulsing noises it was making and the return line feels smooth flowing. My rail pressure at idle is at 450. If I set it lower to 36ish the pressure drops and the car will stumble. If if I set it higher 43+ the noise comes back like the pump is flowing too much or something.

TLDR; Hellcat pump , 40psi with vac at idle = winning
I have not gotten to fully test drive it but will update when I put some more miles on it.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Update:
My return line noise is still noisy. I made a thread.
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/port-injection-return-line-pulsing.10115/

Got my new injectors "Set 4 1200cc fuel injector for MITSUBISHI EVO X 4B11T BOSCH style EV14 Evolution" The company has great reviews and yes they are modified and flow matched. I tested them all and they havea nice clean click and flow pattern looks the same. I the installed them in the rail but am waiting on adapters to get them plugged in as I was too lazy to mod the harness again.

I had to add washers as my bolt was too long from the other injectors and I wanted the rail to be secure and not the injectors taking the weight. After Covid I will take the time to clean it up a little but this works.


I also installed new plugs gapped to .022 and this seemed to cure my stutters in boost. As soon as I get the adapters in I will try to get PI flowing again and make a little power.


On another note my OCC lines are starting to crack as they were older when I got them and didn't think about wear on them so I order some new line and will replace those eventually. 10 Feet - 10AN Black Push Lock Hose for Fuel Oil Coolant Air 5/8" Rubber Loc On

My Oil cooler gasket "which was new 5k miles ago" is leaking so I need to also take a look at that. Lots of little things to do but I am hoping I can get to them as I have a lot of stay at home time but with the wife also working from home now and two little kids time is still scarce.

 

[DubC]

that's the same stuff i got last year when i replaced my OCC lines. i think i just went to autozone or the like and got it there for $x.xx/ft. i think i ended up using 7'ish feet? felt nice to change them as well. sorry you're having these issues but good on you for staying the course and getting them all fixed up.

 

[aaronc7]

I believe I am running the kraken hose too. Needed something quick and that's what was on amazon lol. I believe all the push loc stuff is the same-- that "400 series" hose or whatever.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Update:

Got some decent time lately to tinker in the garage as the wife has started doing work again and sometimes has meetings at night. After much tinkering I figured out my issues with the return line pulsing HERE I ended up just needing some rubber hose to isolate the vibes.
This is a pic of me testing it, not the final setup.


I then got my vent pod installed and made a thread for that as well. HERE I ran the wires for the sensor through the hood latch and got the power stuff from my other gauges. I was able to sneak the new sensor on the bottom of the FPR. The ProSport gauges all come with a newer better sensor than they used to. I am really happy with how it all came out.




I bought some new meat from tire rack 255 40 17 Hankook Ventus RS4. They barely clear the coil overs but they should hold some power.



I then took some time to replace my Oil Catch Can OCC lines. I bought "10 Feet - 10AN Black Push Lock Hose for Fuel Oil Coolant Air 5/8" Rubber Loc On" This stuff is really nice. My old line was cracking pretty badly and I did not realize how bad it was until I got it off. I don't think it was leaking yet but it was not in good shape.



I also made a ghetto valve cover OCC which I will be making a thread for.


Next step is to finish getting the new tires on and then get it back on the ground. I bought a new OEM master cylinder as I have been having issues with pedal travel and was also told to switch a supra slave cylinder as the bore size is better with our master vs putting another 6 slave back on. That looks like a TOTAL pain in the dick so idk when I will get to it but with Covid life the car can pretty much just chill ripped apart for days at a time.

BONUS MATERIAL!!
Samus turned 9 on saturday. We made her a dog cake, it was kinda gross but she loved it.

Good Girl waits patiently for the OK.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Update:
Over the weekend I got some sporadic time to work on the car and got a little bit done.

I swapped oil coolers for the newer style as that is supposed to fix the leak issues with the gasket leaking oil. I had replaced that gasket 3 times since owning the car and was over it.

Old Style

New Style


The new style has a thick rubber gasket as , the old one has a think plastic gasket with a silicone liner on it. You can see the thick rubber in this pic. You also need the new bolt.


I bought this kit off ebay as it was the cheaper option with shipping plus did not have to come from Japan.


I clamped off both of the coolant lines and only lost maybe 20 oz of coolant. Might be a good time to flush it if my coolant was not already super fresh 6k miles. I also did not lose much oil which was nice as I had just done an oil change.

Like a dummy I had used RTV Red to seal the threads on some of the sensors before and that was also leaking. I did not think about it at the time but it does not work well for that. LINK I ended up buying some Permatex 59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant, 6 ml Tube. This worked great and was super easy compared to teflon tape. I also was able to use it on gas lines without issue. A little bit goes a long ways and you only need to put some on the 2nd and 3rd set of threads from the end.


I also replaced the rubber fuel return line as I had read some reviews on the one I had that were not great. I bought some SAE 30R7 which is designed to handle e85 and whatever else I might be running. It is not designed for High Pressure but the return line does not see any pressure more or less as it just dumps back into the tank.


I got a 90 so I can loop it a little longer to absorb more vibes. Will also be getting fuel line clamps but mail is slow mo so these will work for now.

 

[aaronc7]

I have a big tube of that thread sealant is use it for anything that is taper thread/NPT fitting. From turbo oil line feed fittings, methanol inj nozzles, catch can fittings, etc. etc. Never had an issue or a leak. Good shit.

I'll use teflon tape still for simple, less critical stuff like air hose fittings etc.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

I have a big tube of that thread sealant is use it for anything that is taper thread/NPT fitting. From turbo oil line feed fittings, methanol inj nozzles, catch can fittings, etc. etc. Never had an issue or a leak. Good shit.

I'll use teflon tape still for simple, less critical stuff like air hose fittings etc.

Yeah it's great, I have actually been using "Hercules® Real Tuff™ Pipe Thread Sealant - 8 oz. Model Number: 15620R" for all my non criticals like EBCS and other vac lines that don't really see oil. It has worked great and is way easier to deal with than teflon. It is rated for 500 degrees and will handle gas so I could probably use it for everything.

 

[aaronc7]

I'm always looking for permatex brand alternatives that are usually just as good but way cheaper lol.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Update:

I put some actual fuel clamps on the lines and it looks classier now. My barbed fitting for the AN6 never arrived so I am using the fitting I have which seems to be fine. It is so tight I can not pull the hose off without cutting it so I don't see having any issues.


I pulled the pedal assembly and master out, what a pain in the ass. It was not as bad as people say but it's very much dumb compared to other cars like my old DSM which was two bolts and took 10 min. The hardest bolt to reach was the top one but I was able to get it with a long ratcheting flex 12mm. It was pretty hard to break them loose but once they were loose they came out easy.

I recommend you get a silver marker and mark both the master and the pedal where it needs to line up before final fitment. Otherwise it is easy to get lost when you are under there and swearing. There is only one want for the master to go into it and you can turn it by hand enough to get it started but then I needed some channel locks.



My spring popped out when I was taking the pedal out and took some casualties with it. You can see in the pic below it broke the plastic bushing when it popped out , on both sides. I could tell from 165k miles of use they had also been worn down a lot. I looked for replacements but I didn't see mazda selling any separate and entire pedal assembly.


I happen to have some 1/4" copper nickle brake line hanging out and it fit perfect so I used the brake flare tool to make my own bushing. I lubed it all up really well with silicone lube. Was pretty proud of myself for thinking of that fix as I did not think I would find a solution.


Like a glove

For reference , spring thickness all around is 3.5mm


I went to install the new supra slave cylinder which should better match OEM bore and noticed it was very close to the oil cooler and might rub. I have some ideas to fix this but am waiting on parts to arrive before I can bleed it all and get the car back up and running. I had thought about turning the cooler but it has a notch and that might already be at max position.

I ordered some parts to make my own hardline off the slave that turns a 90 into a 3an. This will give me about 5mm more space as that fitting is shorter and I don't need to adapt it.

I also installed my WOT box shift light. Will be nice to try it out.

Thant's all for now, hoping the get the car back on the road before this weekend so I can do some pulls.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Update:

Finally got a chance to drive the car again. I did not get any logs or long pulls but I did rip it around town a little. Car feels great and fuel pressure is looking good with no odd sounds. I am not sure if the PI sprayed or not but I did let it rip in 2nd and the car did not bog like before when the injector stuck open.

New slave and master are working, clutch feels lighter for sure but it is still at the top of the pedal. I might use my RAM Clutches 78300 to adjust it and get it lower to the floor/mid pedal. I will need to get some more fluid before I do that. The new line I ordered fits better and gives me enough clearance to feel good about it. I might have a small leak still undetermined if it is in my head or not.


Fuel looks good, no leaks and it is between 50-60 psi just scooting around town, the return line pulsing seems to be OK for now. I ended up using some copper nickel brake line to make a restriction in the rubber return hose but I am not sure if that will contaminate the fuel or not so that might not stay in there for long.

I got a new socket for spark plugs, my old one was pretty garbage and the rubber boot was lost long ago. I wonder if it was putting stress on the ceramic at all when installing. This one has a magnet and a rubber boot inside.


I got my wotbox setup and tested the shift light, seems to be working well. Accidentally did 51 but whatever.


For anyone who wants to make their own LED light I am not sure if you need a resistor or just 12v led but this is how it connects to the wotbox.


The RS4 255/40/17 on the front seem to be doing well I have not noticed any rubbing but I will need to do more driving on them.

 

[SharksInSpace]

I have not noticed any rubbing

Well rubbing fronts is the only reason I was here so I guess I'm out.

 

[Easter Bunny]

Well rubbing fronts is the only reason I was here so I guess I'm out.

hahahaha your gay

 

[Enki]

*You're

 

[SharksInSpace]

pwned

 

[Easter Bunny]

Apparently I was drunk last night, i have no recollection of posting that.