JohnnyTightlips Build "Maximum Carnage"
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jsmith
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Enki, sounded more like a confession of love / exiting the closet with an offer of butt touches to me.
Send an email to google if I'm not on the clock I don't proofread
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
Finally fixed my clutch line that was leaking, I had over tightened a AN fitting and it expanded it causing it to lose the ability to seal. I replaced that line and did proper tightening and re-bled , all was well. While I was replacing the line I re-installed my RAM Clutches 78300 as the pedal was still too high for my liking. After some tinkering I got it exactly where I want it and the clutch release is closer to the floor now. Which makes me happy. It does not interfere with the shifter I double triple checked.
I ordered a new BOV to replace my tial ebay one, it has been working great but I figured I would get something more legit. Precision just came out with a new 50mm and I have been very happy with their WG so I decided to order one. It uses a Wave spring so it is much more compact than the Tial.
At first I was super excited to get it going until I quickly realized how poorly designed it was for cars that have good vac. When I ordered it there was not documentation on the website and I assumed it would have a similar range as the tial does, NOPE.
As you can see, the most you can do with the added spacers is -13.5 inHg which is -6.6psi. My car needs -12psi at idle or the valve will open and the car runs like crap. I called Precision because this was blowing my mind that they would release a new BOV that only works for v8's with vac issues. The guy also seemed kinda shocked by it and is going to be talking to their engineering team and get back to me hopefully today. The Tial valves work from -2psi to -20psi of vac which is a much more acceptable range if you are trying to sell a product to the masses. I did get it to stay closed by adding another washer but it would hang open too long coming to a stop and the car would stumble. I will say it does look nice in the bay though.
PI fun times
I finally got to test out PI and start making a little jam, it as been a learning curve on running two fuel systems at once but I am getting the hang of it. Thanks @Sho @andale927 @Enki for the advice and all the other random people.
Here is my 2ndPI run that actually turned out pretty well and is a good base for me to build on. My 60-100 is the same as it was on my CS turbo 93 when the tune was complete. I really need it to warm up a bit as these tires needs some heat. I dropped my idle PSI to 42 as well so that I can be in a better spot for the pumps fueling abilities.
https://datazap.me/u/johnnytightlips/2nd-pi-run?log=0&data=5-6
Next step is to add more WGDC and more fuel. Baby steps. It is raining now :-( so maybe tomorrow I can get another log.
Finally fixed my clutch line that was leaking, I had over tightened a AN fitting and it expanded it causing it to lose the ability to seal. I replaced that line and did proper tightening and re-bled , all was well. While I was replacing the line I re-installed my RAM Clutches 78300 as the pedal was still too high for my liking. After some tinkering I got it exactly where I want it and the clutch release is closer to the floor now. Which makes me happy. It does not interfere with the shifter I double triple checked.
I ordered a new BOV to replace my tial ebay one, it has been working great but I figured I would get something more legit. Precision just came out with a new 50mm and I have been very happy with their WG so I decided to order one. It uses a Wave spring so it is much more compact than the Tial.
At first I was super excited to get it going until I quickly realized how poorly designed it was for cars that have good vac. When I ordered it there was not documentation on the website and I assumed it would have a similar range as the tial does, NOPE.
As you can see, the most you can do with the added spacers is -13.5 inHg which is -6.6psi. My car needs -12psi at idle or the valve will open and the car runs like crap. I called Precision because this was blowing my mind that they would release a new BOV that only works for v8's with vac issues. The guy also seemed kinda shocked by it and is going to be talking to their engineering team and get back to me hopefully today. The Tial valves work from -2psi to -20psi of vac which is a much more acceptable range if you are trying to sell a product to the masses. I did get it to stay closed by adding another washer but it would hang open too long coming to a stop and the car would stumble. I will say it does look nice in the bay though.
PI fun times
I finally got to test out PI and start making a little jam, it as been a learning curve on running two fuel systems at once but I am getting the hang of it. Thanks @Sho @andale927 @Enki for the advice and all the other random people.
Here is my 2ndPI run that actually turned out pretty well and is a good base for me to build on. My 60-100 is the same as it was on my CS turbo 93 when the tune was complete. I really need it to warm up a bit as these tires needs some heat. I dropped my idle PSI to 42 as well so that I can be in a better spot for the pumps fueling abilities.
https://datazap.me/u/johnnytightlips/2nd-pi-run?log=0&data=5-6
Next step is to add more WGDC and more fuel. Baby steps. It is raining now :-( so maybe tomorrow I can get another log.
Looks slow
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
You are both correct. Needs to stop raining so I can get more logs.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
Well I am pretty much tapped out on 93. I am starting to see a little knock up top and I need to add a little more fuel but I am pretty happy with where it is. e50 or e30 will be soon have not decided which way to go yet. Car has been very consistent which has been a really good feeling. I have been keeping an eye on it and everything appears to be working well.
Latest Pull, needs more fuel up top and smoothing but I took it to redline
https://datazap.me/u/johnnytightlips/redline-ssv62-tune106?log=0&data=5-7
5.23 60-100
9.97 60-130 4th gear no shifts
I have removed the precision valve and will be sending it back for an RMA, they will be checking out the spring to make sure it is working as they said with all three spacers it should be closed and not be an issue. I also talked to realstreet about it and Jay the youtube dude was the one who called me. That was pretty cool and he said they will help me out as needed.
Really not much else to talk about. Tuning PI has been a bit of a pain in the dick but I am managing. @aaronc7 has been a bronameth and showed me how histograms works so that has been great. @Bigelow has also been a buddy pal. The best feeling is when you finally have it at a safe place where you feel good ripping on it. Next step CORN , BOOST, TIMING.
Well I am pretty much tapped out on 93. I am starting to see a little knock up top and I need to add a little more fuel but I am pretty happy with where it is. e50 or e30 will be soon have not decided which way to go yet. Car has been very consistent which has been a really good feeling. I have been keeping an eye on it and everything appears to be working well.
Latest Pull, needs more fuel up top and smoothing but I took it to redline
https://datazap.me/u/johnnytightlips/redline-ssv62-tune106?log=0&data=5-7
5.23 60-100
9.97 60-130 4th gear no shifts
I have removed the precision valve and will be sending it back for an RMA, they will be checking out the spring to make sure it is working as they said with all three spacers it should be closed and not be an issue. I also talked to realstreet about it and Jay the youtube dude was the one who called me. That was pretty cool and he said they will help me out as needed.
Really not much else to talk about. Tuning PI has been a bit of a pain in the dick but I am managing. @aaronc7 has been a bronameth and showed me how histograms works so that has been great. @Bigelow has also been a buddy pal. The best feeling is when you finally have it at a safe place where you feel good ripping on it. Next step CORN , BOOST, TIMING.
Last edited:
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
E30 tune is coming along. I am lower on timing still and as you can see I added way too much fuel to correct. Green was a great pull but still low on boost and lean up top so I added wgdc and fuel but I added too much fuel and it is dumb rich up top now which is killing power. Our town was on lock down last night so I have not been able to log. I am hoping to get a log today but we will see. Trying to get her over 500 and up to 35psi ish with a good fuel curve. I am not totally sure where this turbo will tap out and I am running a 3.5 bar sensor so I will be at those limits soon. I did a boost leak test and did not find any leaks so I am pretty sure my issue is just too much fuel.
I also changed out my FPR so that might have added to richer fueling. It fixed my pulsing issue. I was able to mount it in the same place as my old one but had to drill/tap one side of it so that I could add the fuel pressure sensor below. I really liked how it was before and I wanted to keep that spot.
So far it is working well. I am waiting on another 6an orb fitting so I can get rid of the rubber line.
Dog Tax
E30 tune is coming along. I am lower on timing still and as you can see I added way too much fuel to correct. Green was a great pull but still low on boost and lean up top so I added wgdc and fuel but I added too much fuel and it is dumb rich up top now which is killing power. Our town was on lock down last night so I have not been able to log. I am hoping to get a log today but we will see. Trying to get her over 500 and up to 35psi ish with a good fuel curve. I am not totally sure where this turbo will tap out and I am running a 3.5 bar sensor so I will be at those limits soon. I did a boost leak test and did not find any leaks so I am pretty sure my issue is just too much fuel.
I also changed out my FPR so that might have added to richer fueling. It fixed my pulsing issue. I was able to mount it in the same place as my old one but had to drill/tap one side of it so that I could add the fuel pressure sensor below. I really liked how it was before and I wanted to keep that spot.
So far it is working well. I am waiting on another 6an orb fitting so I can get rid of the rubber line.
Dog Tax
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
Def been some ups and downs lately. I switched to AP which has been really nice and much simpler than VT. It is really great to see the values while I log if I want to vs praying stuff is working out.
Also did this cool thing where I fucked up my door and fender. Was in the garage working with the door open and I guess I did not have the hand brake up enough as it started rolling when I was away from it and caught the side of the garage and bent the door all the way open. I will need to get a door and fender and some point but the door works without issue so right now I am sending it.
I started getting a misfire when I got into boost after I did a pull and I decided to check my plugs. WELP this was cool. The plug had melted. Not sure if it was the PI not being balanced or just a lean hit or what but I had been using those plugs for a bit so it was time to change them anyways. Crazy thing is that the car still drove just fine with that monster gap as long as I was not in boost.
I was not super pleased with this and figured my engine was trash. I look at the cylinders and did not find any chunks. I cleaned them as best I could and used a magnet but never got anything scary out. Seems like it actually melted and just went out the exhaust.
I checked the turbo and did not see anything wrong with it, no chips or clips. I used a shop vac to pull anything else that might be in there and it spun nicely and felt like a normal journal bearing.
I decided to get diff PI injectors, I have just not had good results with the set I have and @andale927 recommended some dekas which are priced great and are non modded legit injectors that fit. So far they have been night and day better and pull for pull is consistent. 80lb/h Siemens Deka High Impedance (Mid Length) with EV1 Connector – FI114700 (48mm)
Need to clean up the boost curve and fuel a bit but it is getting close.
My ghetto valve cover vent is working although a little too well. I need some sort of baffle as it puts a decent amount of oil out and the can got full. This was over a 2 month period.
Precision finally got back to me and told me they made a mistake and that they worked with their spring vendor to get a wave spring that would work for setups like mine. They said they will include both springs with the valve now. The valve is working great and makes a lot more noise than my tial while being more compact. I have not had any issues with idle or anything.
I decided to route my fuel lines back the way I had them with the Y being at the firewall that feeds the HPFP and then the PI rail which goes to the FPR then to return. I wanted the HPFP to get fuel before the PI rail does, I did not have to adjust the FPR and pressure stayed the same. I also installed and e85 sensor I had on the shelf for like 2 years. There is an excellent guide to doing this on youtube but the guy makes a funny voice the entire time so I am sure some people could not handle it lol.
https://www.turbokeychains.com/prod...-gauge-kit/#bluetooth-ethanol-analyzer-dongle
His app works great and it is pretty slick but I found out my e85 sensor is dead and does not read correctly :-(
I was excited to Bluetooth it for simplicity and all that stuff is working just no reading from the sensor.
Since the car troubles of misfire I swapped plugs and the new ones are working great. I checked them after a couple hard pulls and they look clean. I did notice that I am getting some smoke into boost and when I let off boost , it might be time to rebuild this turbo as it has had a very long life with @Sho before me and I am boosting it to the moon. The rebuild kits are pretty cheap and it does not look super hard.
My secondary o2 is also dead, I know it does not matter on the Juan if it is there or not so I will prob just disable the code.
Oh and I smashed the fuck out of my finger when I was leaving the house and I reached back to shut the door and the wind caught it and shut it for me on my finger. Thanks 2020
Def been some ups and downs lately. I switched to AP which has been really nice and much simpler than VT. It is really great to see the values while I log if I want to vs praying stuff is working out.
Also did this cool thing where I fucked up my door and fender. Was in the garage working with the door open and I guess I did not have the hand brake up enough as it started rolling when I was away from it and caught the side of the garage and bent the door all the way open. I will need to get a door and fender and some point but the door works without issue so right now I am sending it.
I started getting a misfire when I got into boost after I did a pull and I decided to check my plugs. WELP this was cool. The plug had melted. Not sure if it was the PI not being balanced or just a lean hit or what but I had been using those plugs for a bit so it was time to change them anyways. Crazy thing is that the car still drove just fine with that monster gap as long as I was not in boost.
I was not super pleased with this and figured my engine was trash. I look at the cylinders and did not find any chunks. I cleaned them as best I could and used a magnet but never got anything scary out. Seems like it actually melted and just went out the exhaust.
I checked the turbo and did not see anything wrong with it, no chips or clips. I used a shop vac to pull anything else that might be in there and it spun nicely and felt like a normal journal bearing.
I decided to get diff PI injectors, I have just not had good results with the set I have and @andale927 recommended some dekas which are priced great and are non modded legit injectors that fit. So far they have been night and day better and pull for pull is consistent. 80lb/h Siemens Deka High Impedance (Mid Length) with EV1 Connector – FI114700 (48mm)
Need to clean up the boost curve and fuel a bit but it is getting close.
My ghetto valve cover vent is working although a little too well. I need some sort of baffle as it puts a decent amount of oil out and the can got full. This was over a 2 month period.
Precision finally got back to me and told me they made a mistake and that they worked with their spring vendor to get a wave spring that would work for setups like mine. They said they will include both springs with the valve now. The valve is working great and makes a lot more noise than my tial while being more compact. I have not had any issues with idle or anything.
I decided to route my fuel lines back the way I had them with the Y being at the firewall that feeds the HPFP and then the PI rail which goes to the FPR then to return. I wanted the HPFP to get fuel before the PI rail does, I did not have to adjust the FPR and pressure stayed the same. I also installed and e85 sensor I had on the shelf for like 2 years. There is an excellent guide to doing this on youtube but the guy makes a funny voice the entire time so I am sure some people could not handle it lol.
https://www.turbokeychains.com/prod...-gauge-kit/#bluetooth-ethanol-analyzer-dongle
His app works great and it is pretty slick but I found out my e85 sensor is dead and does not read correctly :-(
I was excited to Bluetooth it for simplicity and all that stuff is working just no reading from the sensor.
Since the car troubles of misfire I swapped plugs and the new ones are working great. I checked them after a couple hard pulls and they look clean. I did notice that I am getting some smoke into boost and when I let off boost , it might be time to rebuild this turbo as it has had a very long life with @Sho before me and I am boosting it to the moon. The rebuild kits are pretty cheap and it does not look super hard.
My secondary o2 is also dead, I know it does not matter on the Juan if it is there or not so I will prob just disable the code.
Oh and I smashed the fuck out of my finger when I was leaving the house and I reached back to shut the door and the wind caught it and shut it for me on my finger. Thanks 2020
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
Car has been doing well but has been a dog down low. I kept thinking maybe it was my turbo as I had never had such a big turbo but when I compared logs to @Sho the previous owner of this turbo he was getting way more power down low with less boost. I figured it had to be something with timing so I ordered a TDC bolt and checked the pulley. Well I was on tooth 19 and not tooth 20. I counted it about 15 times to confirm I was not crazy. This would explain why the car is such a dog to get into power and was not making as much jam on 93 as I thought it would.
Angle is strange in the pic but you can see it aligned to tooth 19.
The strange part is that when I check all by build pics I had it was aligned to tooth 20. You can see the white tooth and it is aligned to the white tooth. The only thing I could think is if the timing wheel shifted some how or I am legit going crazy. As now I can't even get the sensor to reach tooth 20 I can get to like 19.5.
Tooth 19.5 with center bolt in and crank at TDC
I even made a video counting every tooth and it is indeed off 1. I will be taking the valve cover off to check TDC with the cams and everything sometime soon. I am excited to have found this out but also confused. When I moved the sensor closer to 20 "19.5 ish" the car WOKE UP. After 5k it is a monster and pulls like crazy now but I still suspect the timing down low is not letting the turbo do its job. Would love to hear if anyone is more familiar with all this what their thoughts are.
Bright Green is right after crank timing sensor going to 19.5 ish, you can see how it wakes up after 5k with the boost coming in. Down low on the next map I added boost back in and you can see it helps but not nearly as much as it should for that much boost. I suspect the timing down low is killing it.
Car has been doing well but has been a dog down low. I kept thinking maybe it was my turbo as I had never had such a big turbo but when I compared logs to @Sho the previous owner of this turbo he was getting way more power down low with less boost. I figured it had to be something with timing so I ordered a TDC bolt and checked the pulley. Well I was on tooth 19 and not tooth 20. I counted it about 15 times to confirm I was not crazy. This would explain why the car is such a dog to get into power and was not making as much jam on 93 as I thought it would.
Angle is strange in the pic but you can see it aligned to tooth 19.
The strange part is that when I check all by build pics I had it was aligned to tooth 20. You can see the white tooth and it is aligned to the white tooth. The only thing I could think is if the timing wheel shifted some how or I am legit going crazy. As now I can't even get the sensor to reach tooth 20 I can get to like 19.5.
Tooth 19.5 with center bolt in and crank at TDC
I even made a video counting every tooth and it is indeed off 1. I will be taking the valve cover off to check TDC with the cams and everything sometime soon. I am excited to have found this out but also confused. When I moved the sensor closer to 20 "19.5 ish" the car WOKE UP. After 5k it is a monster and pulls like crazy now but I still suspect the timing down low is not letting the turbo do its job. Would love to hear if anyone is more familiar with all this what their thoughts are.
Bright Green is right after crank timing sensor going to 19.5 ish, you can see how it wakes up after 5k with the boost coming in. Down low on the next map I added boost back in and you can see it helps but not nearly as much as it should for that much boost. I suspect the timing down low is killing it.
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JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Yep, will be doing that when I get my spare car back and the plate shows up.
I wonder if the slight slip in timing had any hand in cracking those spark plugs
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Perhaps I will know more when I get in there. I do not know how it would have slipped as I was very careful with tq specs and keeping the diamond washers clean so they could seat but who knows.
Sucks you have to retime the whole thing in the car
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
I took the valve cover off and checked timing, the motor is in time but for some reason the teeth are off on the crank pulley. There is no sign of slippage but something must have changed at some point. Either way I was determined to fix it so I did.
TDC pin in , cams where they should be and piston 1 at TDC. I did also OHM check my VVT solenoid and the one of the car was a little out of spec so I went back to my gross looking OEM one that is still in spec. I don't think that changed anything.
I did clean the VVT filter as well, it did not look dirty at all. it's under that where my finger is pointing to.
20th Tooth in red, sensor reach maxed.
Ghetto fix, I used quicksteel to make an extension for it. The bottom bolt is doing all the real work but I added the top to make me feel better inside.
AND I switched to e50 because I was running into knock with e30. Timing fix was a success and I am getting closer to being done. I am having trouble getting good logs in 4th as I run out of traction up top. Probably need to air down the fronts a little and get some heat into them.
Orange is NOW , Pink is when it was still on tooth 19.5 "-3 ish degrees off still on entire timing map" I know there is a major boost difference but when the timing was off before you could keep adding boost and it would do nothing. Now it helps so I brought it back in.
Pretty happy with the tune where it is. It is pretty nutso and way too much for DD life lol. I might in the future play with boost by gear and try to get my first 3 gears back.
I took the valve cover off and checked timing, the motor is in time but for some reason the teeth are off on the crank pulley. There is no sign of slippage but something must have changed at some point. Either way I was determined to fix it so I did.
TDC pin in , cams where they should be and piston 1 at TDC. I did also OHM check my VVT solenoid and the one of the car was a little out of spec so I went back to my gross looking OEM one that is still in spec. I don't think that changed anything.
I did clean the VVT filter as well, it did not look dirty at all. it's under that where my finger is pointing to.
20th Tooth in red, sensor reach maxed.
Ghetto fix, I used quicksteel to make an extension for it. The bottom bolt is doing all the real work but I added the top to make me feel better inside.
AND I switched to e50 because I was running into knock with e30. Timing fix was a success and I am getting closer to being done. I am having trouble getting good logs in 4th as I run out of traction up top. Probably need to air down the fronts a little and get some heat into them.
Orange is NOW , Pink is when it was still on tooth 19.5 "-3 ish degrees off still on entire timing map" I know there is a major boost difference but when the timing was off before you could keep adding boost and it would do nothing. Now it helps so I brought it back in.
Pretty happy with the tune where it is. It is pretty nutso and way too much for DD life lol. I might in the future play with boost by gear and try to get my first 3 gears back.
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