JohnnyTightlips Build "Maximum Carnage"
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JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
For sure, I'm going to get it decked and cleaned by the shop that's doing the block.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
Did more work on the head last night. Was able to cut the intake runners down a little and knife them. I figured that since the JMF is single I would go for it. I am not sure if it helps or hurts but it was free and I was there. I gasket matched it to the AP SINGLE RUNNER SUPER TIG. I am hoping this helps with flow but I am not a pro and it was like 50$ for me to do this so I did it. It took me about 5 hours total to do the entire project. Could I spend more time chasing that 10%, yes, but I won't.
I also did a little bowl work on the small intake runner that had a pretty pronounced lip on it.
[doublepost=1550085358][/doublepost]Also side note. I used the Harbor Freight 1/4 in. Air Die Grinder. Which worked great with the smaller AL bit but I bought a longer one to do the intake side and the HF tool is so out of balance it would just not work at all. The bit would flop all over the place and then loosen and fly out. It actually ended up being a good thing as I did not need to use such a long bit. Also a note on the sanding stuff. BE GENTLE, I was pretty heavy with the AL bit but when I tried to add pressure the sanding bit I kept breaking the shanks. Let the sander do the work for you.
Did more work on the head last night. Was able to cut the intake runners down a little and knife them. I figured that since the JMF is single I would go for it. I am not sure if it helps or hurts but it was free and I was there. I gasket matched it to the AP SINGLE RUNNER SUPER TIG. I am hoping this helps with flow but I am not a pro and it was like 50$ for me to do this so I did it. It took me about 5 hours total to do the entire project. Could I spend more time chasing that 10%, yes, but I won't.
I also did a little bowl work on the small intake runner that had a pretty pronounced lip on it.
[doublepost=1550085358][/doublepost]Also side note. I used the Harbor Freight 1/4 in. Air Die Grinder. Which worked great with the smaller AL bit but I bought a longer one to do the intake side and the HF tool is so out of balance it would just not work at all. The bit would flop all over the place and then loosen and fly out. It actually ended up being a good thing as I did not need to use such a long bit. Also a note on the sanding stuff. BE GENTLE, I was pretty heavy with the AL bit but when I tried to add pressure the sanding bit I kept breaking the shanks. Let the sander do the work for you.
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JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
After working with CPE for forever I finally got my manifold in. It was not a big deal as I am not ready to install it but it was a bit of a process. I ordered Dec 21 and it came yesterday Feb 15. They did hook me up with 25% off and free shipping for the delay which was amazing. So high five to them. I originally had 15% off due to holiday say. The delay was due to their titan finish machine being down.
After working with CPE for forever I finally got my manifold in. It was not a big deal as I am not ready to install it but it was a bit of a process. I ordered Dec 21 and it came yesterday Feb 15. They did hook me up with 25% off and free shipping for the delay which was amazing. So high five to them. I originally had 15% off due to holiday say. The delay was due to their titan finish machine being down.
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JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
I started cleaning the valves and ended up soaking them then using the drill press and a brass wire wheel in a hand drill to finish the job. This actually worked pretty well and took about 2 days of soaking and 5 minutes per valve to clean them up. I used a piece of rubber hose to keep the valve in the drill press without marring it.I tried using Gum Cutter and B-12 Chemtool to see which would work better. The Chemtool ate the carbon quicker and seemed to do a better over all job of breaking it down. I did not have to soak the exhaust valves just the intake side.
Before and After
All Clean. Two needed to soak more.
I also got some other goodies in the mail.
I started cleaning the valves and ended up soaking them then using the drill press and a brass wire wheel in a hand drill to finish the job. This actually worked pretty well and took about 2 days of soaking and 5 minutes per valve to clean them up. I used a piece of rubber hose to keep the valve in the drill press without marring it.I tried using Gum Cutter and B-12 Chemtool to see which would work better. The Chemtool ate the carbon quicker and seemed to do a better over all job of breaking it down. I did not have to soak the exhaust valves just the intake side.
Before and After
All Clean. Two needed to soak more.
I also got some other goodies in the mail.
but did the Gum Cutter of B12 taste better?
mangosmoothie
Greenie Member
Yeah is gumout safer for unsuspecting computer monitors?
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Def B12
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
I stared to tear into the trans as I am going to replace some of the pads and check the 2nd gear synchro. This is a gen pu trans that @VoodooJef hooked me up with and I would like to put it to work. I have never done anything like this before so it is both awesome and terrifying. @CMajor is being a YUGE help and talking me through a few things. I also reference the THIS article a lot. I am buying the pads that Fonz on facebook is making. I have not had a chance to deep inspect 2nd synchro so I hope it is all good.
There is a massive 27mm allen head on the trans and the tool is 40$. For $1.50 I was able to make a bolt/nut combo that fits perfect. I used a 3/4 Nyloc bolt that I got for a local tractor supply store. Then I used a 1-1/8 wrench on it but you could also just use a crescent wrench. This worked really well. I did have to torch the nylon lock part out to reverse thread it on the bolt. I also did not need the other nuts as it was tall enough the get a wrench on just sitting in there.
All torn down
Fork pads look to be in good shape. I will be replacing 1-4. Which are left 2 on the pic above.
I stared to tear into the trans as I am going to replace some of the pads and check the 2nd gear synchro. This is a gen pu trans that @VoodooJef hooked me up with and I would like to put it to work. I have never done anything like this before so it is both awesome and terrifying. @CMajor is being a YUGE help and talking me through a few things. I also reference the THIS article a lot. I am buying the pads that Fonz on facebook is making. I have not had a chance to deep inspect 2nd synchro so I hope it is all good.
There is a massive 27mm allen head on the trans and the tool is 40$. For $1.50 I was able to make a bolt/nut combo that fits perfect. I used a 3/4 Nyloc bolt that I got for a local tractor supply store. Then I used a 1-1/8 wrench on it but you could also just use a crescent wrench. This worked really well. I did have to torch the nylon lock part out to reverse thread it on the bolt. I also did not need the other nuts as it was tall enough the get a wrench on just sitting in there.
All torn down
Fork pads look to be in good shape. I will be replacing 1-4. Which are left 2 on the pic above.
You bought the forks with pads pressed on already?
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Nope, they are using a method to press the new ones in and used a glue. They have had success in multiple cars without any failures so I am hoping mine goes the same way. This is not the same glue that others were using that was failing. Recommended Glue
I'm hoping for the best on your trans. I'd be nervous about that adhesive, I thought those pads had to be welded and flattened. Hopefully it works well for you.
Since you have your trans apart, check the breather valve. Mine was stuck shut. Replaced the rubber diaphragm with some aluminum sheet metal that I cut down, no pressure build up since.
Since you have your trans apart, check the breather valve. Mine was stuck shut. Replaced the rubber diaphragm with some aluminum sheet metal that I cut down, no pressure build up since.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
I am also hoping for the best, it was popping 2nd anyways so it needed to be pulled apart. Are you talking about the breather on the shiftier? If so I already checked the breather and its very clean and looks good. Any pics of what you did to yours?
Yes, exactly that. The pivot shaft was giving me some issues, well more specifically just shifting. I posted about it here. Pics are towards the end.
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/transmission-breather-crack-pressure.5658/
Over a year later, I can say shifting on the highway has not given me issues anymore. Trans pressure is gone. Also at the time prior to the breather mod, my OEM clutch would slip from time to time at less than 50k. Being tuned by Finkle now at almost 60k on a BNR s4, and the same OEM clutch is still holding strong and not slipping anymore.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
I thought I would not be lazy last night and get a few things done. When I pulled the motor the driver side axle would not come out of the hub. I tried it all and it would just not budge. Now that it is totally off the car I got it on the press. It took a lot of pressure and there was a crazy loud POP but it broke loose. Once the initial pop went it still required decent pressure and kept popping as I eventually pushed it out. Total pain in the ass and fought me to the bitter end. The dust shields are dead and I will either replace them or just leave them off.
I will be replacing the bearings and hubs I will also be getting fresh ebay axles.
I have also been looking at my transmission internals. It looks like 2nd gear is a little ragged. I will be replacing that while harassing @CMajor for all the info he can give me. I will also be sending the forks off to get the pads put on, I did notice on further inspection that the plastic is cracking. I feel better about having someone who has done it multiple times with success do it for me.
You can see how the teeth are worn and not even. This will be a hell of an adventure and I am really hoping not to mess it up.
I also got some new parts. Drain Line, Updated Cometic Head Gasket, Stainless Clutch Line
My next steps are to order transmission parts and button that up. I will then work on the hubs and eventually get the money to get all the machine work done on the motor. This list is getting shorter but so is the money.
I thought I would not be lazy last night and get a few things done. When I pulled the motor the driver side axle would not come out of the hub. I tried it all and it would just not budge. Now that it is totally off the car I got it on the press. It took a lot of pressure and there was a crazy loud POP but it broke loose. Once the initial pop went it still required decent pressure and kept popping as I eventually pushed it out. Total pain in the ass and fought me to the bitter end. The dust shields are dead and I will either replace them or just leave them off.
I will be replacing the bearings and hubs I will also be getting fresh ebay axles.
I have also been looking at my transmission internals. It looks like 2nd gear is a little ragged. I will be replacing that while harassing @CMajor for all the info he can give me. I will also be sending the forks off to get the pads put on, I did notice on further inspection that the plastic is cracking. I feel better about having someone who has done it multiple times with success do it for me.
You can see how the teeth are worn and not even. This will be a hell of an adventure and I am really hoping not to mess it up.
I also got some new parts. Drain Line, Updated Cometic Head Gasket, Stainless Clutch Line
My next steps are to order transmission parts and button that up. I will then work on the hubs and eventually get the money to get all the machine work done on the motor. This list is getting shorter but so is the money.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
You can get it by messaging Oddball Industries on facebook, they designed the updated version and can get it for you.
Sho
Silver Member
2018.
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