JohnnyTightlips Build "Maximum Carnage"
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Sho
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Relevant info is here. And they've since changed it from an MLS to an MLX
Edit: link updated
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f658/custom-head-timing-cover-gaskets-193655/
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
I really bought it more so for piece of mind. I do not think it is necessary at the level I am looking for. If I decide to be silly and add power down the road I know it will handle it.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
UPDATE
Nothing too wild to report. I am low on funds so doing things as I can that are free/cheap until I can get some money for machine work. I was able to score and under route pipe and Raider damn for the cost of shipping from a bro so that was sweet. I have also been working on my own wire tuck harness and replacing some wires as they are pretty green and I have the time to mess with it so why not. Electrical does not scare me like it seems to most.
I bought these guys "NICECNC Ignition Coil Pack Repair Kit Connector for Nissan 350Z 03-09,370Z 09-16,Altima 02-16,Frontier 05-16,Maxima 90-16,Murano 03-16,NV1500/2500/3500 12-16,Pathfinde 01-16,Quest 04-16,Xterra 05-15"
They fit perfect and are the cheapest I could find that are bare and I can use.
I also bought this wire "High Temp GXL Cross-Link XLPE Stranded Wire, 16 AWG Gauge, SAE J1128, Automotive" which in hindsight I should have bought 18awg as 16 is overkill but I will make it work. This is the wire to get if you are doing legit automotive electrical work. Yes it cost more but there is a reason.
Then to wrap it all I bought some nice tesa tape like the auto industry uses. "Tesa's Most Advanced High Heat Harness Tape 51036"
I also picked these up for the as I plan to incorporate the wotbox and SS controller into the cable. "uxcell 2 Set 8-Pin 8 Positions Sealed Waterproof Cable Connectors Sockets"
And these "280 pcs 3:1 Dual Wall Adhesive Heat Shrink Tubing kit"
These are the fresh coil wires.
The harness for the wotbox and SS. The 4 on the bottom are the signals from left wire clip down on each coil, these go to the SS controller. The 2 on top are for wotbox, orange is a shared wire to the right side of each coil clip down and red goes back into the harness. For the wotbox I can jumper these if no wotbox is installed or I can plug the red and orange wires from the wotbox install into these. If you do not jumper these the car will not run without a wotbox.
I removed 2 pins from the harness that I did not need for VTCS. I added a little liquid electrical tape.
I did finish the easy cable and am waiting on pins for the coil harness.
Nothing too wild to report. I am low on funds so doing things as I can that are free/cheap until I can get some money for machine work. I was able to score and under route pipe and Raider damn for the cost of shipping from a bro so that was sweet. I have also been working on my own wire tuck harness and replacing some wires as they are pretty green and I have the time to mess with it so why not. Electrical does not scare me like it seems to most.
I bought these guys "NICECNC Ignition Coil Pack Repair Kit Connector for Nissan 350Z 03-09,370Z 09-16,Altima 02-16,Frontier 05-16,Maxima 90-16,Murano 03-16,NV1500/2500/3500 12-16,Pathfinde 01-16,Quest 04-16,Xterra 05-15"
They fit perfect and are the cheapest I could find that are bare and I can use.
I also bought this wire "High Temp GXL Cross-Link XLPE Stranded Wire, 16 AWG Gauge, SAE J1128, Automotive" which in hindsight I should have bought 18awg as 16 is overkill but I will make it work. This is the wire to get if you are doing legit automotive electrical work. Yes it cost more but there is a reason.
Then to wrap it all I bought some nice tesa tape like the auto industry uses. "Tesa's Most Advanced High Heat Harness Tape 51036"
I also picked these up for the as I plan to incorporate the wotbox and SS controller into the cable. "uxcell 2 Set 8-Pin 8 Positions Sealed Waterproof Cable Connectors Sockets"
And these "280 pcs 3:1 Dual Wall Adhesive Heat Shrink Tubing kit"
These are the fresh coil wires.
The harness for the wotbox and SS. The 4 on the bottom are the signals from left wire clip down on each coil, these go to the SS controller. The 2 on top are for wotbox, orange is a shared wire to the right side of each coil clip down and red goes back into the harness. For the wotbox I can jumper these if no wotbox is installed or I can plug the red and orange wires from the wotbox install into these. If you do not jumper these the car will not run without a wotbox.
I removed 2 pins from the harness that I did not need for VTCS. I added a little liquid electrical tape.
I did finish the easy cable and am waiting on pins for the coil harness.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
UPDATE
I finished the harness UPGRADESSSS!!! and it went pretty smooth. It took quite some time to think it all through and not mess it up but I am happy with the end result. I also did some work on the main harness to remove the EGR plug and clean it up. I ran a new 2 awg wire to the alternator and snipped the end of the factory one as I am doing a new fuse and connector to that as well. This is overkill but the wires were in rough shape and I will feel better knowing the car has clean power. I will be upgrading the grounds "big 3" sorta kinda when I get the motor back in with 2awg wire as well. Originally I had planned to move the battery to the trunk but that is just more then I want to spend right now to do it right and I would need a special battery box if I want to go to the strip or anything official.
Here is my upgraded harness.
Main harness after cleaning up for wire tuck and deleting egr plug. I plan to sand blast all the grounding metal brackets as well, they are rusty and gross. Should be getting a sand blaster this weekend in g-pas shop and I am excited!
EGR plug deleted
I also looked at other wires and their condition and fixed any that were super gross. The starter trigger wire was a freaking mess, rusty and covered in blackness. I chased it 8 inches up the harness to find clean wire. I am surprised it worked at all.
New End with new wire soldered into harness.
New + ends for the OEM line 6awg and my 2awg line going directly from alternator to battery. I cut the stock fuse and battery connector off as it was done for. I made it all pretty and wrapped it so it looks factory as it makes the way to the alt we will see how this works when engine is back in car. Green is OEM modified and Red is new 2awg line.
I then finished the line at the alternator with some fiberglass protection sleeve as the factory line also has that.
I finished the harness UPGRADESSSS!!! and it went pretty smooth. It took quite some time to think it all through and not mess it up but I am happy with the end result. I also did some work on the main harness to remove the EGR plug and clean it up. I ran a new 2 awg wire to the alternator and snipped the end of the factory one as I am doing a new fuse and connector to that as well. This is overkill but the wires were in rough shape and I will feel better knowing the car has clean power. I will be upgrading the grounds "big 3" sorta kinda when I get the motor back in with 2awg wire as well. Originally I had planned to move the battery to the trunk but that is just more then I want to spend right now to do it right and I would need a special battery box if I want to go to the strip or anything official.
Here is my upgraded harness.
Main harness after cleaning up for wire tuck and deleting egr plug. I plan to sand blast all the grounding metal brackets as well, they are rusty and gross. Should be getting a sand blaster this weekend in g-pas shop and I am excited!
EGR plug deleted
I also looked at other wires and their condition and fixed any that were super gross. The starter trigger wire was a freaking mess, rusty and covered in blackness. I chased it 8 inches up the harness to find clean wire. I am surprised it worked at all.
New End with new wire soldered into harness.
New + ends for the OEM line 6awg and my 2awg line going directly from alternator to battery. I cut the stock fuse and battery connector off as it was done for. I made it all pretty and wrapped it so it looks factory as it makes the way to the alt we will see how this works when engine is back in car. Green is OEM modified and Red is new 2awg line.
I then finished the line at the alternator with some fiberglass protection sleeve as the factory line also has that.
doin wwooorrrkkkkkkk
Fly to MI so you can make my WotBox wiring look pretty
Everything looks great man! Super clean for sure.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Would love to but my wife would kill me, if you are ever around my area we can do some work on it.
I doubt I'll be there anytime soon. Just tell your wife you're visiting your side chick, she'll understand.
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Indiana is closer man just swing over here for my build instead haha I am hopefully pulling the motor today!
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
lol "closer"
Not close enough I take it? Haha
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
I started getting into the transmission more now to get 2nd gear replaced and sent my forks off to get brass pads installed for 1-4 " 2 forks" I was able to pull the stacks out and am waiting on a tool to get started.
This clip sucks butts and I ran into this "horsehoe lock ring" before when I was working on a buddies kia and did not have the tool for it. Was not going to make that mistake again and ordered this. Stanley Proto J250G Proto 9-Inch Lock Ring Horseshoe Washer Pliers
I started getting into the transmission more now to get 2nd gear replaced and sent my forks off to get brass pads installed for 1-4 " 2 forks" I was able to pull the stacks out and am waiting on a tool to get started.
This clip sucks butts and I ran into this "horsehoe lock ring" before when I was working on a buddies kia and did not have the tool for it. Was not going to make that mistake again and ordered this. Stanley Proto J250G Proto 9-Inch Lock Ring Horseshoe Washer Pliers
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
LOL , I am under the mind set of get the right tool to do it correctly. Saves me time and head aches. Doing this I have built up a decent collection of tools which has been really helpful in all my adventures.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
For sure, part of it is that I am saving a lot of money doing it myself so the cost of tools that I can use again and again doesn't hurt so much.
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