JohnnyTightlips Build "Maximum Carnage"

I have to say guys.... I’m with Sharks on this one.. haha Hate spiders but they do kill other stupid bugs I guess... Still hate them tho lol
 
Update:

This is going to be a lame update as I have not done a lot lately. But lets get this party started.

After waiting 100 years for tasca to send parts I finally got 2nd gear synchro in. I was pretty excited to get the transmission buttoned up and add it to the done list.

OLD
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NEW
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Got the stack put back together which was about 1000x easier then taking it apart. Took like 25 min.
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I then put the puzzle back together of stacks and was pretty much done when I over torqued one of the bolts on a control rod and did not feel great about that so I ordered some new ones from tasca. That was like 2 weeks ago and they have not shipped. So this is still how the trans sits :-(
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While I had the case open and was waiting I decided to replace the axle seals, well one has been replaced, have not gotten to the other.
I used a crow bar to pry the old one out, it was jammed in there really well and took some effort.
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I then installed the new seal with some love taps. i forgot to take a pic of the after but yeah you get it.
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I also replaced the bearing , breather and seal on the shifter. All this is very easy to do when you have a press.
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And then to help @KiwiFlavor out with cleaning up his build a bit I made him some ends so that he could unlpug stuff from the main harness for wotbox and SS controller if he needed to work or replace something. He will be soldering these into the places he needs them.
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so you making plug and play wire harness for wot box? interested in this if that's the case. would be a nice option.

Yeah but not really, you still have to solder it in. And the thing with the wotbox is that you have to actually intercept a signal rather than just piggy back so if you don't have the wotbox installed you need to have a jumper plug installed or the car won't run. If you want more info let me know. It's nothing fancy but it would allow you to pull the wotbox out if needed and just get the car back to normal with another plug you can keep in the glovebox. But yeah the goal is that you solder in these harness's to the car and to the wotbox and then it is all removable without having to chop and re-solder.
 
Update:

Well it took forever but the bolts finally came in for the control rods. I was able to get the transmission back together and then found out that 5/6th gear was not working. After some thinking I realized that the detent ball must have fallen into the rod bearing hole as I was missing on of those and after an hour of searching on the floor I could not find it. Needless to say I am really good at tearing a trans apart now. The shittiest part of the whole assembly is cleaning up all the rtv and re-applying it.

It's hard to see but at the bottom of that hole is where the detent ball was hanging out. I must have not pulled it out when I took the spring out and as soon as I took the rod out it dropped down. Always count your balls.
If anyone is wondering when you go to test the trans. I tested each one and watched the rods move accordingly.
Up 5th/6th gear
Middle 3rd/4th Gear
Down 1st/2nd Gear
Bottomed Out , Reverse
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Once the trans was back together I got the final seal in. All that is left is to clean up the tunnel.
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I also got my turbo so one more piece of the puzzle. PTE 5862 JB, thanks @Sho for the hookup. I cleaned it up with some WD40, will probably be a giant smoke show when the car starts. It has no play in it other then normal JB play. My plan is to run it like is and then when I go underroute I will rebuild it due to the high miles on it and the fact that I have to mess with it anyways. Not sure when I will get to that as I really just need to get the car running.

I also purchased all the OEM bits I will need for the rebuild, little crap is adding up but I am not about to use some of my old high mile gaskets and such.

Another thing I am looking into is trying to find these JMF parts. This is for fuel pressure sensor relocation. The middle is a normal 4an fitting but I have no idea what the rail and sensor side are. I have found brake line fittings and such which look similar but nothing exact yet and I didn't want to spend tons of money figuring it out. If anyone knows that would be great. This set was on @Maisonvi fire car so not really worth taking a chance. I know I could get a whole new one from JMF but was trying to figure it out on my own.
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Update:
Not very much news going on. Just collecting all the gaskets and parts I will need for the rebuild. Which is sad as they are not cheap and not fun like turbos.

I also rebuilt my HPFP with Rey's o-ring kit. HERE
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New Axles "Ebay DTA"
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2200cc Injectors per @Sho recomendation and GB DI Injector rebuild Kits "orings and shiz"
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Injectors look a little rough but as long as they work I don't really care.
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Box of RockAuto goodies
Starter "was killed by rod", Gaskets, VVT Solenoid
I went with Mahle as they have always been top notch and they seem to be identical to the OEM parts at half the price. Will let people know if I regret this decision.
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Knock off SSQV - Yes this is ebay and no I don't think it will handle 35psi. But it was cheap and came with the adapter for my current setup. @SharksInSpace ran one for a while without issue. I am planning to go to a Tial valve when I get to the PI big boost stage of this build.
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That's all for now. I am waiting on Tasca to send me a ton more OEM parts and then next week I plan to take the block in to the machine shop.
 
Update:

I wrapped the Kozmic DP as I guess it is awfully close to the alternator and wrap is pretty cheap. Ace had some nice stainless hose clamps that worked well. Not sure if I will change position of them or not but they will get trimmed when they are at their final resting place.

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I manage to get the SSQV valve mounted as well. I heard a lot of horror stories but using a clamp and some snap ring pliers plus a hammer and screw driver I was able to get it in place fairly painlessly.

  1. Get o-ring around base of SSQV
  2. Mash down SSQV with clamp onto plate. Don't go wild but give it some beans.
  3. Use Snap Ring Pliers to press the ring into the channel.
  4. Once it is in enough you can use a flat head screw driver and a hammer to tap it down a little further to fully seat it, work around it.
  5. Now profit from ebay valve and never take it off that adapter, just buy another
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I took the block, head, crank, rods, pistons, clutch kit, flywheel bolts, main studs, crank girdle to the machine shop today. It will be a few weeks they said to get it all done. I am having it all cleaned, block bored/honed/decked, head decked, crank polished and rotating assembly balanced. Excited to get this stuff going. I forgot to bring my Crank Pulley so that they can balance with that on as well so I will drop that off tomorrow. Decided to use my edge bucks to just buy a new crank pulley thanks @Raider

The guy I talked to at the shop seemed very knowledgeable and was very helpful/friendly so I feel like it is all in good hands. I will not be replacing the freeze plugs , just leave them in during cleaning.

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While that gets going I plan to get my knuckles cleaned up and put some por15 on them. Then I will do the new wheel bearings and try to get all that put back together.


DOG TAX:
"You're a Wizard Harry!"
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Update:
Not very much news going on. Just collecting all the gaskets and parts I will need for the rebuild. Which is sad as they are not cheap and not fun like turbos.

I also rebuilt my HPFP with Rey's o-ring kit. HERE
6gEMZ4u.jpg


New Axles "Ebay DTA"
D1RPVLB.jpg


2200cc Injectors per @Sho recomendation and GB DI Injector rebuild Kits "orings and shiz"
Ybu6pR6.jpg

Injectors look a little rough but as long as they work I don't really care.
dpFhtqv.jpg


Box of RockAuto goodies
Starter "was killed by rod", Gaskets, VVT Solenoid
I went with Mahle as they have always been top notch and they seem to be identical to the OEM parts at half the price. Will let people know if I regret this decision.
4ZmnMew.jpg


Knock off SSQV - Yes this is ebay and no I don't think it will handle 35psi. But it was cheap and came with the adapter for my current setup. @SharksInSpace ran one for a while without issue. I am planning to go to a Tial valve when I get to the PI big boost stage of this build.
y9o5ydB.jpg


That's all for now. I am waiting on Tasca to send me a ton more OEM parts and then next week I plan to take the block in to the machine shop.
How much were those axles if you don’t mind me asking.
 
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