I hate your car and this thread and am not proud of or excited for you at all.
JohnnyTightlips Build "Maximum Carnage"
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JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
haha perfect and thank you for your contributions and all your heat treated parts
Congratulations on the successful engine build! I love the progress you had and all the useful info and techniques you shared.
The check valve you put back into your fuel tank breather line, it prevents boost from leaking into your fuel tank. The check valve seals pressure (when in boost) out of the purge valve and so out of the tank. The purge valve itself controls the amount of vacuum that the fuel tank will experience. Since the purge valve doesnt seal perfectly on it's own, Mazda added that check valve to it.
Keep an eye on that coolant plug you made. Depending on where it sits, it could build up an air bubble inside which can steam up and leak. Nothing to panic about, but definitely keep an eye on it as you break in the engine.
The check valve you put back into your fuel tank breather line, it prevents boost from leaking into your fuel tank. The check valve seals pressure (when in boost) out of the purge valve and so out of the tank. The purge valve itself controls the amount of vacuum that the fuel tank will experience. Since the purge valve doesnt seal perfectly on it's own, Mazda added that check valve to it.
Keep an eye on that coolant plug you made. Depending on where it sits, it could build up an air bubble inside which can steam up and leak. Nothing to panic about, but definitely keep an eye on it as you break in the engine.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Good to know. The plug should not have too much air in it as I was leaking coolant all over while I installed it lol.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
I got my first 50 miles in yesterday. Found a LONG hill by a client I was working at and did a bunch of engine braking down it. Need to get the oil changed so I can drive it again but ran out of time last night. On the way home last night some lady rear ended a truck and the bridge I take has no shoulders so I was stuck in single line traffic for about 50 min. The 6 puck is WELL broken in. I was happy that my car did not over heat or leak any fluids so that was a positive. I am also thinking that I need to get a radio back in here. I took it out while the car was down so my wife could get an upgrade.
I am over all very happy with how it is going and will be getting into boost a little after this change. The car is pretty different without the BS and full mounts. It is not too bad at idle or just cruising but as soon as I get up to 5k it sounds like it is going to the moon. ALL THE RESONANCE. Will keep everyone posted with break in progress.
I got my first 50 miles in yesterday. Found a LONG hill by a client I was working at and did a bunch of engine braking down it. Need to get the oil changed so I can drive it again but ran out of time last night. On the way home last night some lady rear ended a truck and the bridge I take has no shoulders so I was stuck in single line traffic for about 50 min. The 6 puck is WELL broken in. I was happy that my car did not over heat or leak any fluids so that was a positive. I am also thinking that I need to get a radio back in here. I took it out while the car was down so my wife could get an upgrade.
I am over all very happy with how it is going and will be getting into boost a little after this change. The car is pretty different without the BS and full mounts. It is not too bad at idle or just cruising but as soon as I get up to 5k it sounds like it is going to the moon. ALL THE RESONANCE. Will keep everyone posted with break in progress.
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break in deez nutz
Can second this statement.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
I am at about 250 miles now. Been giving her a little boost here and there. Hit 13lbs today felt good. Still not going WOT but it is nice to merge with some power. I am running versatune and was getting tired of having the laptop setup so I decided to get Torque Pro going on my phone. I ordered Amoner Car Phone Holder it works great and the phone doesn't bounce around. I got tq setup pretty quick with the Mazda pid add on. This works well for keeping an eye on things but logging is not quite fast enough for WOT pulls.
Kitbest Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner Mini
I also decided to do a boost leak test as I had not performed one since getting the car running. I went to Menards "it's like home depot" and picked up some parts. I will make a how to thread it is super simple. HOW TO THREAD LINK!!!
I found two small leaks in 2 of my couplers. Tightened them a bit and they went away. I tested at 25psi and started to get some leaking around the clamp from the turbo to the intake. This was of no concern considering the intake should never really see pressure anyways.
I also ordered a radio as my kids have been asking for music and I am like ummmmmm so it came today and I have no idea when I will install it. I went with another JVC android auto head unit. I had one pre-zzb but put it in the wifes car while I was down. I decided to get the wifi version and am excited to not have to plug anything in. JVC KW-M855BW
So far so good. I am really happy with how the car has been working and I am trying to get used to all the new sounds. I am very curious how loud it is outside the car and am ready to get that 1000 miles done. I have also been eliminating rattles as I can. Found a new one coming from my cabin light area so that is next on the list.
Bonus Material: Got this guy yesterday. Not sure when I will get PI going but it is nice to have it checked off the list @KiwiFlavor found me a deal
I am at about 250 miles now. Been giving her a little boost here and there. Hit 13lbs today felt good. Still not going WOT but it is nice to merge with some power. I am running versatune and was getting tired of having the laptop setup so I decided to get Torque Pro going on my phone. I ordered Amoner Car Phone Holder it works great and the phone doesn't bounce around. I got tq setup pretty quick with the Mazda pid add on. This works well for keeping an eye on things but logging is not quite fast enough for WOT pulls.
Kitbest Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner Mini
I also decided to do a boost leak test as I had not performed one since getting the car running. I went to Menards "it's like home depot" and picked up some parts. I will make a how to thread it is super simple. HOW TO THREAD LINK!!!
I found two small leaks in 2 of my couplers. Tightened them a bit and they went away. I tested at 25psi and started to get some leaking around the clamp from the turbo to the intake. This was of no concern considering the intake should never really see pressure anyways.
I also ordered a radio as my kids have been asking for music and I am like ummmmmm so it came today and I have no idea when I will install it. I went with another JVC android auto head unit. I had one pre-zzb but put it in the wifes car while I was down. I decided to get the wifi version and am excited to not have to plug anything in. JVC KW-M855BW
So far so good. I am really happy with how the car has been working and I am trying to get used to all the new sounds. I am very curious how loud it is outside the car and am ready to get that 1000 miles done. I have also been eliminating rattles as I can. Found a new one coming from my cabin light area so that is next on the list.
Bonus Material: Got this guy yesterday. Not sure when I will get PI going but it is nice to have it checked off the list @KiwiFlavor found me a deal
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I made a beefy tester like that too, it's been in use for about 4 years now.
I didnt waste time with a regulator though. I have a pressure gauge on the tester, along with a ball valve. I flood it with air from the compressor until it gets to the pressure I want, and then I close the ball valve. You can tell how bad the leaks are depending on how quick the pressure drains after the flood.
I can provide pics later if you want.
Also if you are going to test the intake like that, make sure your EBCS lines dont leak. I had a gremlin leak at the vacuum bleed from the EBCS/intake.
I didnt waste time with a regulator though. I have a pressure gauge on the tester, along with a ball valve. I flood it with air from the compressor until it gets to the pressure I want, and then I close the ball valve. You can tell how bad the leaks are depending on how quick the pressure drains after the flood.
I can provide pics later if you want.
Also if you are going to test the intake like that, make sure your EBCS lines dont leak. I had a gremlin leak at the vacuum bleed from the EBCS/intake.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
So far so good, car has 450 miles on it and was down about 1/2 quart of oil so I added some. Not sure if that is just loose built motor gaps or break in. Either way I am not concerned. I would like to do a compression check as I have yet to do one. Maybe I will get a chance this weekend.
I do have a small leak where the wastegate meets the exhaust manifold. @Sho suggested I get THIS CLAMP Alternate Clamp, FULL Band Style, for Tial MVR (V44 / 44mm) Inlet (Manifold Side) I did order it but have not installed it yet, the leak is pretty minimal right now. Once I pass the 500 mark I will start doing some logging and pulls and see where the car is at. So far I have hit about 12 psi at 60% throttle or so and just been doing break in procedure by trying to vary rom and lots of engine braking.
I am getting used to the 6 puck I have found I just need to be a little more aggressive with the gas pedal at take off. This is great for competing with soccer moms but not great when traffic is super stop and go. If I lived somewhere that had terrible traffic this would not be a DD clutch for me. But I would also likely just have an auto beater if that was the case.
I plan to get the wotbox hooked up soon, all the wiring is in the car it is just not hooked to anything yet. I have a plug as part of the Coil Harness I made that is currently just jumped for the car to run.
I did get my Android Auto radio back in and the batter connections cleaned up as they were a little tight before. Pretty boring post I know but that is also a good thing.
So far so good, car has 450 miles on it and was down about 1/2 quart of oil so I added some. Not sure if that is just loose built motor gaps or break in. Either way I am not concerned. I would like to do a compression check as I have yet to do one. Maybe I will get a chance this weekend.
I do have a small leak where the wastegate meets the exhaust manifold. @Sho suggested I get THIS CLAMP Alternate Clamp, FULL Band Style, for Tial MVR (V44 / 44mm) Inlet (Manifold Side) I did order it but have not installed it yet, the leak is pretty minimal right now. Once I pass the 500 mark I will start doing some logging and pulls and see where the car is at. So far I have hit about 12 psi at 60% throttle or so and just been doing break in procedure by trying to vary rom and lots of engine braking.
I am getting used to the 6 puck I have found I just need to be a little more aggressive with the gas pedal at take off. This is great for competing with soccer moms but not great when traffic is super stop and go. If I lived somewhere that had terrible traffic this would not be a DD clutch for me. But I would also likely just have an auto beater if that was the case.
I plan to get the wotbox hooked up soon, all the wiring is in the car it is just not hooked to anything yet. I have a plug as part of the Coil Harness I made that is currently just jumped for the car to run.
I did get my Android Auto radio back in and the batter connections cleaned up as they were a little tight before. Pretty boring post I know but that is also a good thing.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
My wastegate was showing signs of leaking and the new clamp arrived so I got that installed. So far I have not noticed any more leaking and less cabin smells. I have found it is really easy to swap the WG clamp if you have some pressure on the gate. This way you don't need to try compress the spring.
OLD
NEW
I did my 500 change and now I am at 750 miles. I started doing some mafcal logs and have been getting that in check. My first log was pretty gross and AFR was too lean so I added 10% fuel across the upper range and added some timing as I had that set too low as well.
This is looking better but AFR is still higher then I would like so I will be adjusting the mafcal some more.
If you look at the end you can see the boost drops of dramatically. At first I thought maybe it was a leak or coupler issue but after reviewing my tune I found that I had a load table where 7k and 8k were set to 1.4 and YEP 1.4 load is like 10 psi or less it would seem. You can see it drops from 2.2 load to 1.4 pretty quick. I will do another WOT log with the updated load and maf adjustments when I can. The turbo seems to be spooling around 3500. I know that if I keep boost up I will be out of fuel up top. More logs and more pulls will tell me what I need to know but I am happy that it is looking cleaner.
I plan do adjust my motor mounts some more tonight if I can. After looking at the rmm and the downpipe it seems like the engine needs to move closer to the drivers side. This will be a but of a pain in the ass but I just need to do it. If anyone has any tips or has tried to center the motor better let me know.
Bonus Material:
This bird will not stop trying to build a nest on the windshield of my suburban. I fought it for a while but whatever, good luck buddy.
DOG TAX:
My wastegate was showing signs of leaking and the new clamp arrived so I got that installed. So far I have not noticed any more leaking and less cabin smells. I have found it is really easy to swap the WG clamp if you have some pressure on the gate. This way you don't need to try compress the spring.
OLD
NEW
I did my 500 change and now I am at 750 miles. I started doing some mafcal logs and have been getting that in check. My first log was pretty gross and AFR was too lean so I added 10% fuel across the upper range and added some timing as I had that set too low as well.
This is looking better but AFR is still higher then I would like so I will be adjusting the mafcal some more.
If you look at the end you can see the boost drops of dramatically. At first I thought maybe it was a leak or coupler issue but after reviewing my tune I found that I had a load table where 7k and 8k were set to 1.4 and YEP 1.4 load is like 10 psi or less it would seem. You can see it drops from 2.2 load to 1.4 pretty quick. I will do another WOT log with the updated load and maf adjustments when I can. The turbo seems to be spooling around 3500. I know that if I keep boost up I will be out of fuel up top. More logs and more pulls will tell me what I need to know but I am happy that it is looking cleaner.
I plan do adjust my motor mounts some more tonight if I can. After looking at the rmm and the downpipe it seems like the engine needs to move closer to the drivers side. This will be a but of a pain in the ass but I just need to do it. If anyone has any tips or has tried to center the motor better let me know.
Bonus Material:
This bird will not stop trying to build a nest on the windshield of my suburban. I fought it for a while but whatever, good luck buddy.
DOG TAX:
As far as shifting your motor mounts for better clearance, you will need to loosen your RMM, PMM, and the top nuts on the TMM chassis plate. Also dont forget to disconnect or loosen your downpipe from the catback.
I did mine on jack stands so the front tires/steering system wouldnt present any resistance.
Then just stick a couple of 2x4's or pipes along your engine bay and move the engine as needed.
I did mine on jack stands so the front tires/steering system wouldnt present any resistance.
Then just stick a couple of 2x4's or pipes along your engine bay and move the engine as needed.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
I got the motor mounts situated better and I found the bushing that @Maisonvi made for me was not working out :sadface:. This was a test to see if 70 duro would be less vibey on the DM PMM vs the 90 it comes with. Well, it was not any better and it got worse as the bushing deformed due to the weight of the motor. I still had the 90 duro DM bushing so I just put that back in. Thanks ken, at least we tried.
As I was taking the battery out I noticed some corrosion on the + terminal. I thought this was strange as the battery is brand new. Well it has a small crack in it. So I will be returning it to walmart for a replacement.
Next on the list will be to keep tuning to max out 93 and then get the wotbox going. I plan to do the PI stuff next summer. I would like to also hit the rust spots so they don't get any worse.
I got the motor mounts situated better and I found the bushing that @Maisonvi made for me was not working out :sadface:. This was a test to see if 70 duro would be less vibey on the DM PMM vs the 90 it comes with. Well, it was not any better and it got worse as the bushing deformed due to the weight of the motor. I still had the 90 duro DM bushing so I just put that back in. Thanks ken, at least we tried.
As I was taking the battery out I noticed some corrosion on the + terminal. I thought this was strange as the battery is brand new. Well it has a small crack in it. So I will be returning it to walmart for a replacement.
Next on the list will be to keep tuning to max out 93 and then get the wotbox going. I plan to do the PI stuff next summer. I would like to also hit the rust spots so they don't get any worse.
Maisonvi
Grass-Roots Vendor
Yeah, Im kinda suprised that happened honestly. Im not sure if its the material, or how we made it, or if its just too soft in that configuration to hold the engine up. Only other way I could see to make it work is have the sleeve in the middle be a much larger diameter and then it would spread the load out further. But in the end, going too thin on the bushing wont get you the softer NVH we were shooting for.
Run an e mix or I'm breaking up with you.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
I will get there, one thing at a time baby.Run an e mix or I'm breaking up with you.
Still need to finish my mafcal but all of a sudden I have been seeing +17ltft at idles so I need to chase that down.Similar threads
