KiwiFlavor
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Always coming in dry.
JohnnyTightlips Build "Maximum Carnage"
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Always coming in dry.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
Installing the Head
You would think this would be pretty simple and it was but it also took forever. I got freektune h11's and they have a LONG install process which seemed very short compared to some of the stuff I have already done. The one thing that threw me a curve was that I had oiled and installed the buckets already and as I was going to install the head I noticed it was dripping oil onto the head gasket from the oil pathways. SMH so I had to soak the oil out of the head and clean that up as much as I could and then clean the new head gasket. I would recommend you take the buckets out and let the head drop out any excess oil and clean it will before moving on. At least enough so it does not drip on the head gasket.
I got the cometic head gasket that Oddball Industries "on facebook" designed as it was recommended by @Sho and he is the best so I gotta listen.
Here is the step by step on what I did. I pretty much followed Kevin's video but one thing I almost forgot to check which I am so glad I did was the cleanliness of the head stud holes in the block.
Installing the Head
You would think this would be pretty simple and it was but it also took forever. I got freektune h11's and they have a LONG install process which seemed very short compared to some of the stuff I have already done. The one thing that threw me a curve was that I had oiled and installed the buckets already and as I was going to install the head I noticed it was dripping oil onto the head gasket from the oil pathways. SMH so I had to soak the oil out of the head and clean that up as much as I could and then clean the new head gasket. I would recommend you take the buckets out and let the head drop out any excess oil and clean it will before moving on. At least enough so it does not drip on the head gasket.
I got the cometic head gasket that Oddball Industries "on facebook" designed as it was recommended by @Sho and he is the best so I gotta listen.
Here is the step by step on what I did. I pretty much followed Kevin's video but one thing I almost forgot to check which I am so glad I did was the cleanliness of the head stud holes in the block.
- Turn the block so that the head studs are angled down and spray the shit out of the holes with brake clean. Keep spraying until the brake clean comes out clear. Use the little straw so you don't spray other stuff that needs to stay lubed. When I did this it was a black stream of grossness so I am glad I cleaned it all out before following the tq sequence. Put a pan under the block to catch all the crap or you will have a mess.
- Turn the crank so the pistons are all hanging out in the middle for later.
- CLEAN IT, clean the mating surfaces of both the head and the block really really well. Then clean it again. Use lint free rags and Naptha or break clean just something to clean all oils and other crap off.
- I ended up going with the h11's as my plan is 500+ and the OEM head bolts can start to stretch around 500. If your plan is to stay around 450 then just stick to OEM as they are way cheaper. At this point the motor "if it ever runs" should be able to support anything I want to do.
- Watch this about 3 times.
- Oil the studs with fresh 5w30, just oil the side going into the block.
- Hand tighten the studs into the block, then turn them like 2 ft lbs more with a wrench to make sure they threaded all the way down.
- Loosen the studs then tighten them all down by hand and leave them alone.
- Clean the block surface again to make sure you did not drop any oil on it.
- Now put the head gasket on and align it as best you can.
- I would now put that lube the studs come with on the upper threads as it is a bitch to do with the head on.
- Now drop the head down slowly and then give it a few taps "rubber mallet or hand" to make sure it seated.
- Now lube up the washers and nuts really well and start following the tq sequence below.
- I used this tq wrench as it looks identical to the nicer brand one and I am pretty sure it is the same thing. It comes with a accuracy sheet and feels great in hand.
ICON - 3/8 In. Drive Professional Click Type Torque Wrench - Take your time and do it right then eat pizza rolls.
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JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
I thought about it and then I was tired and went to bed lol.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update:
Bucket life and Valve Lash - Monotony Strikes Back!
Since I re-seated the valves and the head had 155k miles on it I had to check valve lash. Valve lash is the space between the top of the bucket "which sits on the valve stem" and the cam back side "not the lobe" If this is not correct your valves can be noisy and just not work right as they need a certain gap for oil and movement. The goal is to replace the buckets with different sized buckets until you're back in spec for valve lash.
This is a long process but not entirely difficult. Check out this video for how to properly install and remove the cams you will become a professional at it before this is over. Have some assembly lube and 5w30 available.
The materials I used to do this are CS Instructions "read these multiple times" for installing their cams and the Valve Tappet Clearance v2 from @silvapain and the CS Tappet Guide. I ended up in the end using Clearance V2 sheet to record it all and CS Tappet Guide for the Ford part #'s as they are the same buckets as Mazda but cheaper. I ordered them from Tasca and they arrived about 1 week later.
If you are starting this process from scratch, good freaking luck. I knew the position of my buckets from before and that was a big help to get them all close to start. You will want ABN Universal Standard SAE and Metric Offset Valve Feeler Gauge 16-Piece Blade Tool for Measuring Gap Width/Thickness to check clearances. And a torque wrench for the cam cap sequence. TEKTON TRQ21101 1/4-Inch Drive Dual-Direction Click Torque Wrench (10-150 in.-lb./1.1-16.9 Nm)
Bucket life and Valve Lash - Monotony Strikes Back!
Since I re-seated the valves and the head had 155k miles on it I had to check valve lash. Valve lash is the space between the top of the bucket "which sits on the valve stem" and the cam back side "not the lobe" If this is not correct your valves can be noisy and just not work right as they need a certain gap for oil and movement. The goal is to replace the buckets with different sized buckets until you're back in spec for valve lash.
This is a long process but not entirely difficult. Check out this video for how to properly install and remove the cams you will become a professional at it before this is over. Have some assembly lube and 5w30 available.
The materials I used to do this are CS Instructions "read these multiple times" for installing their cams and the Valve Tappet Clearance v2 from @silvapain and the CS Tappet Guide. I ended up in the end using Clearance V2 sheet to record it all and CS Tappet Guide for the Ford part #'s as they are the same buckets as Mazda but cheaper. I ordered them from Tasca and they arrived about 1 week later.
If you are starting this process from scratch, good freaking luck. I knew the position of my buckets from before and that was a big help to get them all close to start. You will want ABN Universal Standard SAE and Metric Offset Valve Feeler Gauge 16-Piece Blade Tool for Measuring Gap Width/Thickness to check clearances. And a torque wrench for the cam cap sequence. TEKTON TRQ21101 1/4-Inch Drive Dual-Direction Click Torque Wrench (10-150 in.-lb./1.1-16.9 Nm)
- Install your buckets in their precious positions or just go wild if you don't know. Record on the spreadsheet what thickness they are for reference and what location. The thickness is under the bucket and it will be labeled as .482 which actually means 3.482mm
- I verified a few on mine with the harbor freight micrometer and it showed the same reading as they were labeled. After 155k I thought there might be more wear but they checked out.
- Add assembly lube to the tops of the buckets and the areas the cam will be resting/spinning on. I also put a little bit of 5w30 on the buckets before installing.
- Install the cams, I found the lobes closer to the timing side pointing up and inward was the best place to start. "check pg 13 part C of CS install guide.
- You want all the lettering on the cam caps I3 I4 I5 to face the same direction, don't worry about the other text on them. They should be readable if you are standing on the flywheel side of the motor. If I3 I4 etc are upside down when standing on the flywheel side then it is wrong.
- I is for intake and E is for exhaust so if you mix the caps up you can put them back in order. They also have numbers for which spot they go in. THEY HAVE TO BE IN THEIR CORRECT SPOT.
- Now start to tighten the caps down. Start with the cap that is the highest up as it is sitting on cam that has the lobes down. This will allow you to tighten it down without stressing the cam too much. Check that video above he explains it well. Do not tq the caps down just get them to bottom out.
- Once they are all down nice and even you can start the tq sequence. Tighten the middle bolts and spiral out. First pass 5.0-9.0 Nm (45-79 in/lb) and Second pass 14.0-17.5 Nm (10.4-12.5 ft/lb)
- Time to get excited as your journey has only just begun and you will be repeating the above steps about 70 bagillion times.
- Now get out your feeler gauge and start checking clearances. This is a good lesson in how to use a feeler gauge as you get to practice a bunch.
- You can use a socket wrench to spin the cams to get the lobes in the right spot to check but you should be able to check 4 at a time without having to move it.
- MAKE SURE YOUR PISTONS ARE IN THE MIDDLE SO YOU DON'T HIT ONE WITH YOUR NICE VALVES !!!!!
- Check the pics below, you will want the lobes up and you can then check clearance. Record the biggest one that fits and then see what the spreadsheet tells you for ordering. Double check your measurements.
- You will be playing the bucket game for many hours now. If you use your brain and don't rely on only the spreadsheet you might be able to mix and match the buckets you have a bit to get a few in spec.
- Intake Acceptable Clearance (0.22-0.28 mm) (0.0087-0.011 in)
- Exhaust Acceptable Clearance (0.27-0.33 mm) (0.011-0.012 in)
- As you do this process you will start to get an idea and feel of the buckets you need as well. I ordered the ford part numbers that CS listed as they were they cheapest and worked great.
- The first time I checked I had only 1 exhaust bucket that needed changed and 6 intake. I ordered a few extra on the bigger and smaller side of buckets I needed in case I needed them and thanks to @deldran who had some from his build. I was able to get it all back in spec in about 3 hours.
- Don't forget one of the caps needs RTV under it before you move onto the next thing. This cap is outside the valve cover going to the HPFP and neets to be sealed up.
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Any particular reason you did this after the head installation?
Its early for me (day off) so maybe I'm not thinking clearly, bit couldn't you have done this with the head off of the block so the pistons dont touch the valvetrain?
Also, which cap needs RTV? I only remember the timing cover and the HPFP housing junctions needing it.
Its early for me (day off) so maybe I'm not thinking clearly, bit couldn't you have done this with the head off of the block so the pistons dont touch the valvetrain?
Also, which cap needs RTV? I only remember the timing cover and the HPFP housing junctions needing it.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
It's just easier to work with while it's on the engine stand. I wanted to get it on the block so that I could have that done and over with. You could do it off the block as well. I'll take a pic of the cap that needs rtv when I get a chance. Happy 4th!
When I did this last year there was no write up like this, thank you for the detail work,
just to re-remind people, as @JohnnyTightlips said make sure you center the piston so when rotating the cams you wont hit any,
when i did this I have the timing plate on, better if you removed the chain so when rotating the cams the bottom block stay centered
you can only do 4 at a time as far as i remember
Its easier to do this while its installed on the block, doing this while head is off and in the table you risk damaging your valve, as you turn the cams the valve will stick out from the bottom...
just to re-remind people, as @JohnnyTightlips said make sure you center the piston so when rotating the cams you wont hit any,
when i did this I have the timing plate on, better if you removed the chain so when rotating the cams the bottom block stay centered
you can only do 4 at a time as far as i remember
Its easier to do this while its installed on the block, doing this while head is off and in the table you risk damaging your valve, as you turn the cams the valve will stick out from the bottom...
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update
Here is the cam cap that needs RTV, put it around each bolt hole, don't go crazy just dab it.
This video helped a lot with seeing how it is done.
Installing the Oil Pan, Oil Pump, and Camshafts
Great thread for TQ Specs
Pro Tip- Pretty much every bolt tq sequence is a criss cross or start in the middle and spiral out. When in doubt do that.
Install your oil pump. Step 1: 8-12 Nm (71-106 in-lbf) Step 2: 17-23 Nm (13-16 ft-lbf) "criss cross pattern"
I forgot to take a pic of this so here is this. Watch the video
Installed Rear Main Seal - Follow the directions it is pretty simple and use the tool it comes with. You will need to put the engine back in the hoist for this. 8-11 Nm (71-97 lb-in)
Installed Oil Pickup Tube
Pretty simple just make sure your o-ring is in there or you will not be sucking up much oil.
Oil Pan
I forgot to take pics of the oil pan but that goes on next. He explains it really well in the video , you just RTV , RTV sucks ass though. You can use the mazda or the black RTV dealers choice.
Timing the Motor - it's not that bad
Here is the quick and dirty of timing this motor.
Now lets get into the long and boring procedure.
Here is the cam cap that needs RTV, put it around each bolt hole, don't go crazy just dab it.
This video helped a lot with seeing how it is done.
Installing the Oil Pan, Oil Pump, and Camshafts
Great thread for TQ Specs
Pro Tip- Pretty much every bolt tq sequence is a criss cross or start in the middle and spiral out. When in doubt do that.
Install your oil pump. Step 1: 8-12 Nm (71-106 in-lbf) Step 2: 17-23 Nm (13-16 ft-lbf) "criss cross pattern"
I forgot to take a pic of this so here is this. Watch the video
Installed Rear Main Seal - Follow the directions it is pretty simple and use the tool it comes with. You will need to put the engine back in the hoist for this. 8-11 Nm (71-97 lb-in)
Installed Oil Pickup Tube
Pretty simple just make sure your o-ring is in there or you will not be sucking up much oil.
Oil Pan
I forgot to take pics of the oil pan but that goes on next. He explains it really well in the video , you just RTV , RTV sucks ass though. You can use the mazda or the black RTV dealers choice.
Timing the Motor - it's not that bad
Here is the quick and dirty of timing this motor.
- Take Cams Out
- Set Cyl 1 to TDC and use TDC Pin "double check with a wooden spoon or something"
- Install Cams
- Install Cam Alignment Tool - Keep VVT and Exhaust Sprocket loose but attached
- Install Timing Bits - add total tension to chain via tension tool
- Tighten Cam Bolts so that VVT and Exhaust Sprocket no longer spin freely
- Install Timing Cover
- Install Crank Pulley and bolt to hold it in position
- Verify TDC is still correct
- Tighten Crank bolt
- Done
Now lets get into the long and boring procedure.
- Remove the cams so you don't smack a valve trying to find TDC
- Find TDC , I ended up using a wooden spoon and a plate I had lying around. I used the metal plate to scratch the spoon when I though it was TDC then a rotated the crank to see if the scratch would get any higher than the plate and it never did.
- Once you know that it is good up top you can take out the bolt on the block and replace it with the TDC bolt tool. It should be snug up against the crank. Mine did not need to be adjusted and worked great thanks @Maisonvi if your TDC bolt is not correct verify with TDC on the cylinders as that is the end all be all for TDC or get a better quality bolt as it should work.
- Now that your Cyl one is TDC and the bolt is holding it in place we need to re-install the cams.
- I recommend loosening the cam bolts with an impact before you re-install. IN green on the pic below is where you can put a cresscent wrench to hold the cam while you impact the bolt OFF. Should take 1 dakka dakka.
- If you are standing facing the cams on the gear side have the lobes I circled in red face the direction of the arrows like in the pic. This will make sure when the cams get tightened down that they are close to alignment and will not smash a valve into cyl 1 or 4
- Now re-install your cam caps except for this one. "unless your tool fits with it , mine did not"
- Use a crescent wrench to align the cams "should be minor movements" and insert the tool. This holds the cams in place so that they are in time now.
- It should not take much force to get it in just keep working the cams a little bit and inspect until it slides into its home.
- YOU DID IT, the motor is now in time, wow , that wasn't too hard "that's what she said"
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JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Installing Timing Components
Pro Tip- Pretty much every bolt tq sequence is a criss cross or start in the middle and circle out. When in doubt do that.
Pro Tip- Pretty much every bolt tq sequence is a criss cross or start in the middle and circle out. When in doubt do that.
- Watch Kevins video he explains it well but he does not use the diamond washers so make sure you also pay attention. He has a keyed crank which in hindsight would have been nice to do as the washers kinda suck to keep clean and worry about.
- Bolts 1: 8-11 Nm (71-97 in-lbf) Bolts 2: 20-30 Nm (15-22 ft-lbf)
- Install Sprocket on Oil Pump . I did not buy any new sprockets as they all looked good but if you want to go ham and get them then go ahead mr money bags.
- Oil Sprocket Bolt
- Hand thread that onto there so the sprocket is in the keyway but not crazy tight.
- When going to tighten it you can stick a phillips screw driver in one of the holes and use the bracing on the pump to hold it in place while you tq.
- PSA , CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN AND WEAR GLOVES. These washers you are using to hold everything in place rely on the diamonds embedded in them and friction. Brake clean the washers and handle with fresh gloves. Brake clean all surfaces the washer will touch until your white rag stays white. You HAVE to buy new washers every time you tq these down they are one time use. Same with the cams. Do it once to do it right.
- Brake Clean the crank where the washer sits and clean the washer, Install the washer on the crank, Clean the Crank Oil Gear the thick side goes away from the motor. Reference the above pictures to make sure you have everything in place. Take some pics so a day later when you are like wtf did I remember to do this? You will be like , fuck yes I did , there is a pic of the washer in place.
- The above pic has 1 washer behind the oil sprocket and 1 in front of it
- The method for the crank goes "Crank , Washer, Oil Sprocket, Washer, Timing Sprocket, Washer, "Valve Cover" Timing Pulley, Bolt
- This picture is simply for reference on how the sprockets go on , I did not have the washers installed at the time.
- OK back to the oil sprocket you do not need the timing sprocket on yet.
- Install the chain onto the sprockets
- Install the lower chain guide - 2 bolts required 70.9 - 101.7 in-lb
- Install the tensioner and the bolt that holds the tensioner spring in place.
- Now tighten the oil pump sprocket bolt. I used a screw driver to hold it in place through one of the holes but you might be able to just hold the chain by hand. 14.8 - 22.1 ft-lb
- Now you can install the 2nd diamond washer in front of the oil pump crank sprocket and then install your timing crank sprocket keep it clean and watch for oil it should be clean and dry.
- At this point you should take the old bolts out of the cams and swap your new vvt solenoid. The cams also use diamond washers so remove the old ones and install new ones L3K9-12-429. Keep an eye on this. Mine was dripping oil out and some got onto the washer. I had to clean it like 4 times and figure out where oil kept coming from.
- If you're using your old VVT make sure it is in this position before re-installing.
- I used the ARP bolts for this. You are only doing them loosely at this point as you want the cam gears to spin freely without turning the cams but to be in place. HERE are the instructions for when you do the final tq. You will not do final tq until all the other timing stuff is in place. We will get to that.
- Install the timing chain on the cam gears and the timing sprocket.
- Install the left guide
- Install the right guide 70.9 - 101.7 in-lb 2 bolts
- Install the tensioner, leave the pin in it until after it is in place
- Before pulling the pin on the tensioner verify that the chain can move freely on the sprocket and gears, this is important so that the tensioner can add tension evenly. Your cams will need to have the new bolts and new diamond washers in then already if they don't then you need to take a few things off and remove the chain and kinda start over. The goal is for the cam gears to be in place but loose enough to spin. Also verify that your diamond washers are in place.
- Now you can release the tension from the tensioner by pulling the pin. Use your hand to push on the tensioner rail to confirm the tensioner is all the way out and providing the tension it needs. Don't HULK this you just want to make sure the slack is out of the chain.
- Once you have verified that the tensioner is out as far as it will go and that everything is still in time you can start tightening the cam gears back down.
- Start with the exhaust gear and then do the intake gear. I would advise you remove the cam alignment tool as you can snap a cam. Just take your time and apply even pressure on the pulling and pushing of each arm while you tighten. It's really not that bad unless you have tiny baby arms.
- ARP Guide- Cam Sprocket Bolt Kit
2.3L Duratech
Kit #: 151-1001 - OEM will also work well but are one time use- OEM SPECS 69-75 Nm (51-55 ft-lbf) (both sides)
- Now that those are tight put your cam alignment tool back in to verify you did not do something dumb.
- WELL WOULD YOU LOOK AT THAT, you are almost done with the scary shit
- Verify it all looks good as you will be doing the valve cover next. I will do that on another post.
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JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Update
Timing Cover Install and Timing Pulley
Watch THIS
Now that you have finished with the timing chain and shiz you can install the timing cover. Make sure if you have any worries or things you need to check out, do that now before you close it up.
Timing Cover Install and Timing Pulley
Watch THIS
Now that you have finished with the timing chain and shiz you can install the timing cover. Make sure if you have any worries or things you need to check out, do that now before you close it up.
- One thing I forgot to do when pulling the timing cover originally was to mark the bolts. It's not really a big deal as most are the same and it is not hard to figure out.
- GO HERE if you did the same thing and are like wtf mate , what goes where.
- In the Pic Below 1 = all the same size bolts, 2 = The Longest bolt which looks like the #1's but is just a little longer, 3 = a bigger shorter bolt does not match anything else, 4 = all the same size bigger bolts, 5 = Strange double sided bolt
- You can also reference the part numbers and figure it all out
- At this time if you did not already you can put the last diamond washer on as the crank timing pulley will be butted against it. CLEAN IT !
- Make sure your VC crank seal is in good working order, I just put in a new one.
- You can use RTV on the timing cover if you want to hate yourself. OR you could use this gasket Cometic Timing Cover Gaskets EC1948018AFM It fits perfect "the pic is wrong"
- I used Permatex High Tack to help hold it onto the timing cover before I installed it. Worked like a charm. Watch the video I linked for more info. You will need to cut the tabs up top as the middle part actually is not attached. I forgot to take a pic of it on the VC. You only need to spray the side you want to stick to the timing cover. It takes a min to get tacky so be patient. Work the gasket into place so it is aligned nicely.
- You will also need to use Mazda RTV or Black RTV on the points where the head meets the block and the block meets the oil pan before installing the timing cover. Just a little dab to fill in there.
- Now install your timing cover. It has alignment dowels to help you get it in place. Thread in the middle two bolts by hand to hold it there then follow the torque sequence.
- Bolts 1-18: 8-11 Nm (71-97 lb-in) Bolts 19-22: 40-55 Nm (30-40 lb-ft)
- Now the timing cover is on, HOORAY
- Now you can install the crank timing pulley
- I bought a new pulley as mine had a ton of miles on it and I am sure the rubber inside of it was less than ideal. I used edge gift cards I won on this forum , thanks @Raider
- Now thread on your Cam Bolt, I used the ARP one, requires a 12 pt 19mm 1/2" drive , follow the directions when doing final tq
- OEM is TTY and one time use, tq to 75 ft then mark your spot then tq to 90 degrees further. Step 1: 96-104 Nm (71-76 ft-lbf) Step 2: 87°-93°
- The below pic is a little confusing, the red is the valve cover seal NOT the thick washer that is part of the crank bolt that goes on the outside of the crank pulley where the blue is. It is also not something that can be removed from the OEM bolt but ARP it can't so just a heads up.
- Now install the alignment bolt, I actually ended up using a diff bolt that would tuck in there as I left the bolt in during the tq sequence. You CAN NOT rely on the bolt to hold it while you tq it. You have to use a tool and a friend to help.
- The green is the alignment bolt and blue is the 20th tooth in white which the crank position sensor centers on.
- I
- At this point the cam alignment tool is still in and the TDC bolt is still in. I am not sure if you HAVE to remove them or not but if you trust your friend to not suck and to hold the cam in place properly while you tq it you should be good. If you are worried about this just take the plate and tdc pin out but leave the alignment bolt on the crank pulley in.
- Thanks to @Maisonvi for the tool to hold the crank it worked great. I used the ARP bolt so you will need a diff socket.
- Now hold it in place with the tool, you don't want it to move you just want to get the bolt to tq.
- After that's done CONGRATS you have a motor and it is in time.
- Go ahead and verify everything is still in time then have a 10 beers.
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I feel like you need to take your posts and turn them into infividual posts in the how to section, you are covering everyrthing in great detail you need to cash in on that sweet free metal membership
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
You think I could get away with just linking to the specific post in this thread?
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Yes it has kinda turned into a how to
I had definitely thought about it but at the time , even now, I did not want to spend the money on it. Shipping the crank sucks. A local shop probably could have done it but when I was at that stage I did not know enough to even tell them how it should align.
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