LTFT Issues and Lugging

[VashEXE]

Thank you very much for the reply. Anyways, to address a couple things. As far as battery goes, I've put 300 miles on my pu, just to have trims at +10 at this point. This is my LTFT, btw. I understand about the weather. When I first was taking my datalogs, when the issue was first prevalent, the temperature was around 80/90 at night, and I was sitting at a 2 LTFT. Now it's 60/70 degrees. Also, my initial tune was sent to me in the dead of summer so 115 degrees. This would make sense. I'm tuned by Stratified, Catless DP, Autotech HPFP, JBR RMM.

As far as my cruising log goes, that's where my headache lies. In that log I had a pretty bad lug from first to second gear, and I can't trace it at all. I don't see what could be going on. Essentially, it feels as if my car hits a wall. If I were to continue to accelerate through the lug, it stays "stuck" In the wall. It will try it's best to accelerate, but feels like I'm not building boost at all. But this is not represented on any log I've managed to capture.

Lastly, for the relief valve, why do you say that? Sincerely curious. I have yet to crack even 1600 for my KOEO test. The highest was 1540, and the lowest it started dropping was at 430 psi. (This was after a 30 mile drive). If not the RV, what then? I was curious as to how I could be seeing mostly healthy HPFP during pulls. However, the KOEO is never consistent on results, but it will NEVER crack at desired PSI of 1850/1900. Always, less, and sometimes, severely. Thank you.

As for the WOT log, I will have to rerun that.

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You could use a mafcal like I said. I think that will address your LTFT "issue", but I don't believe that's what's causing your lugging in lower gears.

Is this specifically 1st - 2nd gear or can you get it to happen in others? Do you have DSC disabled? Has Stratified disabled your SWAS in the tune for you? These all would cause similar issues to what you're seeing.

As far as the relief valve is concerned, your WOT pressures are normal and aren't dropping below 1600 and are staying in a close enough range that I don't see anything really wrong. Your HPFP pressure will move around a bit like that, so that is normal. If it was sticking open or anything dumb like that you would not be getting even close to where your pressures are at right now. You should start logging HPFP desired pressure as well and compare your Actual and Desired pressures.

You should try to get some visibility into what your tune actually looks like. When you're getting the lug, you should document what your boost/load/AFR/trims/knock is at and see if there is anything that might be causing that. Dumbing down boost/load targets in lower gears is a good idea for traction.

What does your tuner say about all of this? He would be the best guy to approach about this as well since a lot of this is just guessing what your tune is actually set up to do.

 

[xsixx23]

You could use a mafcal like I said. I think that will address your LTFT "issue", but I don't believe that's what's causing your lugging in lower gears.

Is this specifically 1st - 2nd gear or can you get it to happen in others? Do you have DSC disabled? Has Stratified disabled your SWAS in the tune for you? These all would cause similar issues to what you're seeing.

As far as the relief valve is concerned, your WOT pressures are normal and aren't dropping below 1600 and are staying in a close enough range that I don't see anything really wrong. Your HPFP pressure will move around a bit like that, so that is normal. If it was sticking open or anything dumb like that you would not be getting even close to where your pressures are at right now. You should start logging HPFP desired pressure as well and compare your Actual and Desired pressures.

You should try to get some visibility into what your tune actually looks like. When you're getting the lug, you should document what your boost/load/AFR/trims/knock is at and see if there is anything that might be causing that. Dumbing down boost/load targets in lower gears is a good idea for traction.

What does your tuner say about all of this? He would be the best guy to approach about this as well since a lot of this is just guessing what your tune is actually set up to do.

This is 1st to 2nd most of the time. Every now and then, into the other gears. I disabled SWAS. The lugging was going on before this, and I wanted to see if it made any difference, and it did not. I have no codes, either.

I emailed stratified about 1 month ago. I got a reply asking for my order number and then nothing again. From what I understand, that's the reputation nowadays, so they are of no help, unfortunately. I have been running this exact tune for a year with no issues.

As far as knock goes, I usually never see that. My previous logs had 0.00. It's worth noting I was way downtown last night and had to fill up with cheap gas from circle K which I know can impact this.

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[xsixx23]

Alright. Things are worse now. Same lugging, more frequently.. Can anybody read my datalog PLEASE, and tell me if you can see anything. I had a huge lug from first, to second, and captured it in my log here. Throughout this small log, and during normal acceleration, it still feels like the car is going through mud. Fixed boost leaks, new intake, new TIH, new plugs, oil change, purge valve is good. I have no idea where to turn, and the issue has been ongoing for 5ish months now. No CEL other than for EGR delete. Running COBB OTS. Fuel trims are within spec now.

 

[_Mazdarati]

I sadly do not have access to Excel right now or I would look the log over.

From what you are saying, if the trims are in spec, that means usually that the leaks are gone. This leads me to believe that your problem now is either

A.) Your new plugs are not gapped properly and you are blowing spark
B.) Your SWAS is kicking on hard
C.) Something is wrong with tune/MAFcal.

You ARE running a Cob OTS. This is no good. Cobb OTS tunes are made SPECIFICALLY around THEIR parts. If you do not have EXACTLY the parts they list on their website for the required mods, you will have issues.

It is very common knowledge that OTS tunes are TERRIBLE on our cars, especially Cobb. This does not help your concerns. My suggestion is to look over what I listed, and then get a protune and have them look over your logs and go from there.

 

[VashEXE]

As long as your intake is the same size as the OTS map calls for you'll run fine. I based my initial map off of a CS OTS that had the same size intake and was able to work from there. You don't need all of there parts or anything like that, there's nothing magical about it, just the MAF scaling due to the intake size.

That said, I don't see anything huge wrong with this log. I've said that the OTS is not a good look and you should definitely get a real tune, but I'm not sure that's the issue here. SWAS definitely has been a problem for me lately, but if this just started recently, that doesn't seem like the answer either.

I think your next best step is to get with a tuner and try to get a tune made specifically for you to rule out any tuning fuckery. That's something you should do anyways even without the lugging.

 

[xsixx23]

I have been having this issue since I was on a stratified custom tune. I ran the tune for a year before this issue appeared. No matter what tune I am on, it persists. Plugs are gapped to spec, this issue also was presenting itself before the new plugs. After new plugs, no difference. SWAS is completely disabled.

 

[VashEXE]

I have been having this issue since I was on a stratified custom tune. I ran the tune for a year before this issue appeared. No matter what tune I am on, it persists. Plugs are gapped to spec, this issue also was presenting itself before the new plugs. After new plugs, no difference. SWAS is completely disabled.

Is SWAS disabled with a switch or just in the tune?

 

[xsixx23]

It is via switch. Is this incorrect?

 

[VashEXE]

No that's fine, if it was just via the tune that never really worked for me.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

I'll take a look at the log tomorrow.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Did you ever replace the FPR valve? Your log never has WOT on it, can you try and do a proper WOT log so I can see who the car reacts? Can you even get into boost or WOT at all? Your log shows the car being driven by an old lady. Your're barely getting into it and you are letting off the gas before the car even cuts fuel. IDC doesn't get over 15. It is hard to tell from the log that it even cuts except for the IDC and INJ Pulse going to 0. And at that point you let off the gas so it should be going to nothing. It is definitely some sort of fuel cut. I am also seeing some knock, bad injector seals?

Can you do a WOT log in 3rd like so.

Start Logging in 3rd
Put foot to the floor
If car starts cutting out keep foot in it for a second or so
Let off gas
Stop Log
Send Log

 

[VashEXE]

Did you ever replace the FPR valve? Your log never has WOT on it, can you try and do a proper WOT log so I can see who the car reacts? Can you even get into boost or WOT at all? Your log shows the car being driven by an old lady. Your're barely getting into it and you are letting off the gas before the car even cuts fuel. IDC doesn't get over 15. It is hard to tell from the log that it even cuts except for the IDC and INJ Pulse going to 0. And at that point you let off the gas so it should be going to nothing. It is definitely some sort of fuel cut. I am also seeing some knock, bad injector seals?

Can you do a WOT log in 3rd like so.

Start Logging in 3rd
Put foot to the floor
If car starts cutting out keep foot in it for a second or so
Let off gas
Stop Log
Send Log

Less than half a degree of knock, I wouldn't really take that into consideration much.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Less than half a degree of knock, I wouldn't really take that into consideration much.

Yeah and the log doesn't show it reacting to the knock in anyway.

 

[xsixx23]

Did you ever replace the FPR valve? Your log never has WOT on it, can you try and do a proper WOT log so I can see who the car reacts? Can you even get into boost or WOT at all? Your log shows the car being driven by an old lady. Your're barely getting into it and you are letting off the gas before the car even cuts fuel. IDC doesn't get over 15. It is hard to tell from the log that it even cuts except for the IDC and INJ Pulse going to 0. And at that point you let off the gas so it should be going to nothing. It is definitely some sort of fuel cut. I am also seeing some knock, bad injector seals?

Can you do a WOT log in 3rd like so.

Start Logging in 3rd
Put foot to the floor
If car starts cutting out keep foot in it for a second or so
Let off gas
Stop Log
Send Log

Yes, I replaced my FPR valve. I will do the log and post it here soon. The problem with this is it usually wont lug until I’m shifting however perhaps this could show an underlying issue. I will get it posted soon.
[doublepost=1548284941][/doublepost]Alright, hopefully this is sufficient. It also may be worth mentioning that lugs usually dont occur until the car is nice and heatsoaked. Occasionally, it will happen right off the bat, but today was not one of those days. I didnt have one single lug throughout my neighborhood, or once i was on the main street until after I did my pull, and even so it was just a little bit. I have mentioned this before, I have a code for P0453, and havent ever had anybody mention the possibility of this being connected, nor where I should even look. Regardless, here is the log.

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

Yes, I replaced my FPR valve. I will do the log and post it here soon. The problem with this is it usually wont lug until I’m shifting however perhaps this could show an underlying issue. I will get it posted soon.
[doublepost=1548284941][/doublepost]Alright, hopefully this is sufficient. It also may be worth mentioning that lugs usually dont occur until the car is nice and heatsoaked. Occasionally, it will happen right off the bat, but today was not one of those days. I didnt have one single lug throughout my neighborhood, or once i was on the main street until after I did my pull, and even so it was just a little bit. I have mentioned this before, I have a code for P0453, and havent ever had anybody mention the possibility of this being connected, nor where I should even look. Regardless, here is the log.

From another forum:
"I saw this before and was confused...I have never seen that code before.

Usually, though, a high input means a bad sensor (or in your case, valve). A bad MAF, O2 sensor, or MAP sensor will all complain about similar things if they are bad...high signal input.

P0453 is Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor High Input."

Have you looked at swapping a map sensor or maf sensor? Do you know anyone near by that you can try swapping parts? I will take a look at the log in a bit.
[doublepost=1548339358][/doublepost]

From another forum:
"I saw this before and was confused...I have never seen that code before.

Usually, though, a high input means a bad sensor (or in your case, valve). A bad MAF, O2 sensor, or MAP sensor will all complain about similar things if they are bad...high signal input.

P0453 is Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor High Input."

Have you looked at swapping a map sensor or maf sensor? Do you know anyone near by that you can try swapping parts? I will take a look at the log in a bit.

Do you still have your EGR?
[doublepost=1548340058][/doublepost]I looked over the log and everything looks good so I am not sure. Have you checked your coils to see if there are any cracks in the stems? I had a car that when it warmed up there was a tiny crack and the coil would ground to the block.

 

[xsixx23]

I am nearby a fellow member. It’s just a matter of syncing schedules up.

My EGR is deleted. Even before, I took it apart and gave it a thorough cleaning to see if it was related. Unfortunately, not.

This is what makes it frustrating. No issues in the log. I found a nasty split in my Recirc hose so I have a new one on order. As far as coils, they appear alright. My resistance was measured at 1.66, 1.8 and two at 1.75 whereas normal should be 1.8. Not sure if this means anything. Also, my plugs are sooty af and at less than 5k miles.
[doublepost=1549368011][/doublepost]Plug.