Why wouldn't you just adjust it on the car?
My WTF am I doing Build/Maintenance Thread
- Thread starter jdr767
- Start date
jdr767
Greenie N00B Member
They are is on the car. But the strut perch is on threads and you can raise/lower the entire length by spinning it.
This requires removing the aforementioned parts for clearance. I tried with the hub attached and it was just too awkward.
Coil height and spring adjustments can be done with just getting the wheel out of the way.
This requires removing the aforementioned parts for clearance. I tried with the hub attached and it was just too awkward.
Coil height and spring adjustments can be done with just getting the wheel out of the way.
jdr767
Greenie N00B Member
Lengthed the strut to 17" to the alignment hook to top of strut plate on both ends. Re-measured the spring lengths. Re-attached everything and lowered her down. Came all the down with getting stuck on the lift and had clearance to pull it out. Definitely sits much lower, I am going to have to measure the distance from the center of the wheels and confirm height, sameness and travel.
Drove around the block, nothing creaked or groaned, no (new) rattles or vibrations. Possibly something on the passenger side but I could be hearing things settle.
I need the car for a few days to clean out my old office and pickup new computer from my new work this week. The rears will have to wait and I'll be "off" for a few miles.
Drove around the block, nothing creaked or groaned, no (new) rattles or vibrations. Possibly something on the passenger side but I could be hearing things settle.
I need the car for a few days to clean out my old office and pickup new computer from my new work this week. The rears will have to wait and I'll be "off" for a few miles.
jdr767
Greenie N00B Member
Took it out on the highway today.
The good is nothing fell off! The ride feels smoother and the clunks I was getting before that sounded like fronts, possibly swaybar bushings is gone. Mostly notable when going slow in parking lots over speed bumps
The not so good - definite stutter and vibrations that feel like the passenger side at 60+ speeds. Gonna check all the bolts and nuts on that side, make sure everything is tight like it should be and go from there.
The good is nothing fell off! The ride feels smoother and the clunks I was getting before that sounded like fronts, possibly swaybar bushings is gone. Mostly notable when going slow in parking lots over speed bumps
The not so good - definite stutter and vibrations that feel like the passenger side at 60+ speeds. Gonna check all the bolts and nuts on that side, make sure everything is tight like it should be and go from there.
jdr767
Greenie N00B Member
Nothing much lately. Started a new job on the 1st, I work from home except for Wednesdays for now and so I haven't been driving much.
My driver's side ABS cable came loose and I broke it. I have the new cable just need to replace it.
Also checked for codes from the AP for fun - there are no CEL on the dash but the AP is reporting a P0089 - fuel pressure regulator issue.
My driver's side ABS cable came loose and I broke it. I have the new cable just need to replace it.
Also checked for codes from the AP for fun - there are no CEL on the dash but the AP is reporting a P0089 - fuel pressure regulator issue.
jdr767
Greenie N00B Member
Finally got shit moved around in my house again to get the car back in the garage.
Rear suspension took me about 30 minutes to install....
or would if things worked the way they should, still not finished...
So It should have only taken 30 minutes = jack the car up and remove wheels, remove sway bar and rotate out of way. 2 large bolts and 2 15mm nuts - cake.
Unless your load adjusters are seized and won't move.
Removed the lock screw, sprayed PB blaster and let sit - nada. Take off the car again - still wont move. I let PB blaster sit on the threads over night and emailed their support asking what gives. Quick response - stated it shouldn't do that (really?). Asked if I was spinning the right way - valid question - and I am.
I was able to tap one loose using the wrench and a rubber mallet - spins freely but the other one is still stuck. My vise opens up about 1/2mm less than it needs to fit the unit in long ways for better hold. I'm gonna go beat on it some more in a bit. They will send me new assemblies if I can't get it unseized. But I'd rather just get these on and over with.
Side note I may have found what was rattling in my rear passenger side. The rubber on the shock at the mounting bolts was cracked and is loose and makes noise. Going ahead and removing the rear interior while I'm at it to make sure nothing else is loose or slipped and is rolling around under the seats. Shit happens after 10 years - might as well do a thorough inspection.
Cleared the codes about 2 weeks ago concerning the P0089 - code hasn't come back.
Also found a colony of ants living behind the hatch seal rubber, sprayed those fuckers dead - they must have been eating on the rubber glue Service King used.
Rear suspension took me about 30 minutes to install....
or would if things worked the way they should, still not finished...
So It should have only taken 30 minutes = jack the car up and remove wheels, remove sway bar and rotate out of way. 2 large bolts and 2 15mm nuts - cake.
Unless your load adjusters are seized and won't move.
Removed the lock screw, sprayed PB blaster and let sit - nada. Take off the car again - still wont move. I let PB blaster sit on the threads over night and emailed their support asking what gives. Quick response - stated it shouldn't do that (really?). Asked if I was spinning the right way - valid question - and I am.
I was able to tap one loose using the wrench and a rubber mallet - spins freely but the other one is still stuck. My vise opens up about 1/2mm less than it needs to fit the unit in long ways for better hold. I'm gonna go beat on it some more in a bit. They will send me new assemblies if I can't get it unseized. But I'd rather just get these on and over with.
Side note I may have found what was rattling in my rear passenger side. The rubber on the shock at the mounting bolts was cracked and is loose and makes noise. Going ahead and removing the rear interior while I'm at it to make sure nothing else is loose or slipped and is rolling around under the seats. Shit happens after 10 years - might as well do a thorough inspection.
Cleared the codes about 2 weeks ago concerning the P0089 - code hasn't come back.
Also found a colony of ants living behind the hatch seal rubber, sprayed those fuckers dead - they must have been eating on the rubber glue Service King used.
jdr767
Greenie N00B Member
Got the second perch ring loose this morning. Used a hammer and a punch instead of the cheesy wrench. 2 hit and it was spinning free.
Applied anti-seize generously and guesstimate ride height and slapped them in. Just need to attach the RSB and put the wheels back on, genius design of an allen slot within socket told me to go drink more coffee and pretend to work for a little bit before continuing.
Then I can go get a set of tires and an alignment.
Applied anti-seize generously and guesstimate ride height and slapped them in. Just need to attach the RSB and put the wheels back on, genius design of an allen slot within socket told me to go drink more coffee and pretend to work for a little bit before continuing.
Then I can go get a set of tires and an alignment.
jdr767
Greenie N00B Member
Ok....all done (is that really a thing). Car is back together, all new suspension on, replaced the broken ABS cable and secured it this time.
I have a lot of adjustment to do. The front sits much higher than the rears at the moment, comically so - maybe 1 finger between tire and wheel well in front and almost slammed in the rear. But a thunderstorm blew in - almost certain something in the neighborhood got hit by lightning. I'll turn her around and adjust some more tonight or in the morning.
New tires and an alignment tomorrow. I'm debating new wheels but also don't feel like putting out the money for new tires and wheels right now. Maybe in March at bonus time.
I have a lot of adjustment to do. The front sits much higher than the rears at the moment, comically so - maybe 1 finger between tire and wheel well in front and almost slammed in the rear. But a thunderstorm blew in - almost certain something in the neighborhood got hit by lightning. I'll turn her around and adjust some more tonight or in the morning.
New tires and an alignment tomorrow. I'm debating new wheels but also don't feel like putting out the money for new tires and wheels right now. Maybe in March at bonus time.
jdr767
Greenie N00B Member
New shoes on. Really interested in upgrading my wheels from the stockers but also didn't feel like spending the money on a new set of tires and wheels. Shit, mid-grade tires with road hazard cost me $1,200 with an alignment. Which wasn't terrible for me guessing at angles and throwing shit on there.
1 more issue remains on the front. Normal speeds its not very noticeable but once you get on the highway and pick up speed it sounds like something is jackhammering on the passenger front side and a groan. Sounds very cyclical. Struts and springs are new, lower control arm is new, axle is new, tires are new.
What I haven't replaced would be the wheel and the wheel bearing - but the amount of motion I think I feel is too much for either of those. Possibly could be a control arm bushing - I will need to lift the car back up and take a closer look. The sound is eliminated when turning to the right, ie - putting force on the passenger corner. Running out of things I can think of to track it down.
And yes the rattle in the rear is gone - amazing how loud the sound was for the amount of shaking that was occurring on the rubber top bushing.
1 more issue remains on the front. Normal speeds its not very noticeable but once you get on the highway and pick up speed it sounds like something is jackhammering on the passenger front side and a groan. Sounds very cyclical. Struts and springs are new, lower control arm is new, axle is new, tires are new.
What I haven't replaced would be the wheel and the wheel bearing - but the amount of motion I think I feel is too much for either of those. Possibly could be a control arm bushing - I will need to lift the car back up and take a closer look. The sound is eliminated when turning to the right, ie - putting force on the passenger corner. Running out of things I can think of to track it down.
And yes the rattle in the rear is gone - amazing how loud the sound was for the amount of shaking that was occurring on the rubber top bushing.
jdr767
Greenie N00B Member
I am also an idiot sometimes. I realized what you meant after working on it yesterday - I amaze myself how I got this far in life
jdr767
Greenie N00B Member
And that was it. Old shit out. New bearing and assembly pushed in. All of my noise/vibration issues gone. Kicking myself for sitting on this for so long.
No idea what its like to drive again with just engine and exhaust noise - no rattles, groaning, grinding and crap.
I be happy.
No idea what its like to drive again with just engine and exhaust noise - no rattles, groaning, grinding and crap.
I be happy.
jdr767
Greenie N00B Member
I give up.
Went to the store for a quick errand - went to back into spot - guess what? Transmission doesn't go into gear anymore! Again! Something seized - engine wont start with it in gear. Just walked my happy ass 5 miles in this heat. Because I didn't bring shit on my quick errand.
Now to call a tow to get car back to house and once again lift it up and empty it out. I'm kinda getting tired of this, really.
Went to the store for a quick errand - went to back into spot - guess what? Transmission doesn't go into gear anymore! Again! Something seized - engine wont start with it in gear. Just walked my happy ass 5 miles in this heat. Because I didn't bring shit on my quick errand.
Now to call a tow to get car back to house and once again lift it up and empty it out. I'm kinda getting tired of this, really.
jdr767
Greenie N00B Member
So my last post I had a really shitty day.
Car wouldn't go into gear, starts fine in neutral but wont go in gear when powered and would not start in gear.
At this point I've worked on it off and on in the mornings maybe 3 hours total. Essentially at the point of removing the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine and dropping it out.
But the kicker on that day was when I backed the bike out of the garage, rode up the driveway - down the alley - turned and made my way to the next turn and my rear wheel locked up. Luckily I was doing all of 10mph and not 100mph.
Was able to finagle things to allow it to be pushed back home. Need to find security footage of my scrawny ass pushing this beast home. Something is bad in the tranny or direct drive.
Figured I've done the car before, am familiar with how it works I'm starting that first. Though the bike is much smaller and lighter.
I've been putting off buying a shop press - mainly because I still am not 100% on how I want the garage setup and the press is a pretty large footprint. At this point I might as well. Means I can do something with the spare transmission I've got in pieces still on my workbench.
Car wouldn't go into gear, starts fine in neutral but wont go in gear when powered and would not start in gear.
At this point I've worked on it off and on in the mornings maybe 3 hours total. Essentially at the point of removing the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine and dropping it out.
But the kicker on that day was when I backed the bike out of the garage, rode up the driveway - down the alley - turned and made my way to the next turn and my rear wheel locked up. Luckily I was doing all of 10mph and not 100mph.
Was able to finagle things to allow it to be pushed back home. Need to find security footage of my scrawny ass pushing this beast home. Something is bad in the tranny or direct drive.
Figured I've done the car before, am familiar with how it works I'm starting that first. Though the bike is much smaller and lighter.
I've been putting off buying a shop press - mainly because I still am not 100% on how I want the garage setup and the press is a pretty large footprint. At this point I might as well. Means I can do something with the spare transmission I've got in pieces still on my workbench.
jdr767
Greenie N00B Member
I really should be out there now removing the last bolts. But I'm tired.
Smoked a pork shoulder butt yesterday, a small one at 7.03lbs. Mustard base (yellow and Dijon) and then covered in a home made rub (sugar white/brown, salt, pepper, smoked paprika, onion, garlic) and let site over night. Used cherry wood for the smoke.
Generally 1-1.5hr per pound to get internal temp around 190-200 (yes this is higher than if I would be making a pork loin or chop etc). By 12:30 this morning it had 'stalled' at 155 for way too long - 6 hours? Do I crutch it, do I take it out and put it in the oven? I waited up until about 3:30AM this morning excited it got up to 164. Figured my thermometer alarm would go off and wake me up when it reached 190. Nope woke up to my GF's alarm at 6AM.
Total smoker time - 19 hours 45 minutes and some change. I was worried - it didn't "feel" right but had sat at 190 for at least 3 hours. Wrapped it in foil and then towels half asleep to try and sneak another 3 hours before I had to "be at work". Nope thunderstorms mean doggo is a basket case.
All in all I think it turned out - bone pulled out, meat shredded with 2 forks - I had a bite but don't each much in the mornings.
Still just 11 bolts and the RMM in my way.
Smoked a pork shoulder butt yesterday, a small one at 7.03lbs. Mustard base (yellow and Dijon) and then covered in a home made rub (sugar white/brown, salt, pepper, smoked paprika, onion, garlic) and let site over night. Used cherry wood for the smoke.
Generally 1-1.5hr per pound to get internal temp around 190-200 (yes this is higher than if I would be making a pork loin or chop etc). By 12:30 this morning it had 'stalled' at 155 for way too long - 6 hours? Do I crutch it, do I take it out and put it in the oven? I waited up until about 3:30AM this morning excited it got up to 164. Figured my thermometer alarm would go off and wake me up when it reached 190. Nope woke up to my GF's alarm at 6AM.
Total smoker time - 19 hours 45 minutes and some change. I was worried - it didn't "feel" right but had sat at 190 for at least 3 hours. Wrapped it in foil and then towels half asleep to try and sneak another 3 hours before I had to "be at work". Nope thunderstorms mean doggo is a basket case.
All in all I think it turned out - bone pulled out, meat shredded with 2 forks - I had a bite but don't each much in the mornings.
Still just 11 bolts and the RMM in my way.
Anaphra
Greenie N00B Member
Not to throw this thread off or anything, but Tool is really good.
On another note, I had to do my wheel bearing too and it went off w/ out a hitch, other than we forgot something and had to pull the new one out and it came completely apart so we had to go buy another wheel bearing. Also the ring holding the wheel bearing in originally didn't want to come out, so we made some relief cuts in the hub so we could get it out.
On another note, I had to do my wheel bearing too and it went off w/ out a hitch, other than we forgot something and had to pull the new one out and it came completely apart so we had to go buy another wheel bearing. Also the ring holding the wheel bearing in originally didn't want to come out, so we made some relief cuts in the hub so we could get it out.
jdr767
Greenie N00B Member
Slide hammer does make all the difference, and a crow foot that fits around the axle.. And I completely forgot about the snap ring at first and wondered why nothing was moving - oops.
Tool is one of my happy places - along with the other related groups (APC and Puscifer). Undertow came out when I was in 7th or 8th grade and was instantly hooked. I've heard metal and rock etc etc but nothing like that hit me the way it did. And as I have matured over the years its interesting to see the music and messages change right along.
jdr767
Greenie N00B Member
After a week off from working on the car I went out after work and got'r done. Considering I only had the RMM and 10 bolts left it only took about an hour, maybe a little more with me crawling around making sure everything was secure on the lifts. Pretty sure the transmission weighs more than I do - I'd rather not have any surprises on the way off.
Throw out bearing is shot but I kinda figured that. My last visit to transmission land my starting intentions and what happened were two different things and I did not put the new one in. That was in 2018 and 30K+ miles ago so no surprise there. I also wasn't aware the release fork was considered a replacement item so that has at least 101K+ miles on it.
Patted myself on the back and came in for a beer - seemed like a perfect stopping point for the day. I guess the next step is to remove the clutch assembly and inspect for damages and go from there. But that is tomorrow.
Went ahead and pulled the plastics off the bike and exposed the transmission and direct drive. I don't necessarily want to start that in the middle of the car but I figured those were pretty straight forward. Maybe I should switch to automatic transmissions
Throw out bearing is shot but I kinda figured that. My last visit to transmission land my starting intentions and what happened were two different things and I did not put the new one in. That was in 2018 and 30K+ miles ago so no surprise there. I also wasn't aware the release fork was considered a replacement item so that has at least 101K+ miles on it.
Patted myself on the back and came in for a beer - seemed like a perfect stopping point for the day. I guess the next step is to remove the clutch assembly and inspect for damages and go from there. But that is tomorrow.
Went ahead and pulled the plastics off the bike and exposed the transmission and direct drive. I don't necessarily want to start that in the middle of the car but I figured those were pretty straight forward. Maybe I should switch to automatic transmissions