My WTF am I doing Build/Maintenance Thread

[jdr767]

Aren't these exciting?

Still fail. I'm thinking the shortness, deeper cup in the nut, of the first bolt actually assisted in the process?

Working on cutting the broken bolt a bit more, at least past where the "end" was when I started. Gonna have to go get some more nuts. Bought 6 I think, used 2 in testing and the rest plus one I found have all been abused by now. Wonder if there's something other than a nut to try and tack on?

 

[L337TurboZ]

Try going down in wire size. It will also help to wire brush the broken bolt as much as possible. Any contamination into the weld will reduce strength

 

[jdr767]

Try going down in wire size. It will also help to wire brush the broken bolt as much as possible. Any contamination into the weld will reduce strength

Let me pull the spool off and see what I'm actually using. I'll have to make a home depot run once my GF gets home.


**Edit - its .035 - this unit says it can .03 without gas. Lincoln 140 Power MIG.

I did make sure to file, wire brush and clean as much as I can, both surfaces.

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Ya, .035 is for welding trailer frames. Go as small as you can and watch the wire speed so you get a nice little weld puddle and drag it across to the nut. there should be a nice orange glow across the two parts after.

Wire speed too low, you will melt stuff. Wire speed to high and it wont get hot enough to penetrate.

 

[jdr767]

Ya, .035 is for welding trailer frames. Go as small as you can and watch the wire speed so you get a nice little weld puddle and drag it across to the nut. there should be a nice orange glow across the two parts after.

Wire speed too low, you will melt stuff. Wire speed to high and it wont get hot enough to penetrate.

Excellent info - thank you. This is 100% learn by doing, never touched a welder before. Lots of research and reading but no actual application until now.

I picked up a spool of .03 - best I can do with what I got. I lie, I have all the parts to add gas - I'd have to buy gas but I think I'd be stepping out much farther than my capabilities at this point.

I'll have to check the parts my buddy gave me with the unit that go with it and see if I have the correct end, if not HD or HF are just down the road.

For now I got the stub filed down some and cleaned up. Slave fits over it and the 1 bolt should get me to work and back tomorrow. I have to be back at the office tomorrow for some on site work.

Maybe this weekend I'll give another shot with the smaller gauge wire.

 

[RyGuyv]

Got everything out, got the pedal assembly back up inside and the master cyilinder at least in place in the firewall and the assembly. Still need to get it all back "in" but my back hurt I quit. No joke - I'm getting old or way out of shape. Been following this guide to make sure I wasn't missing anything, excellent write up by the way @2012FailWheelDrive.

I'll post up some pics later but I did not notice any cracks or bends anywhere in the unit I took out. Maybe the combination of new assembly and master will make a difference. Not sure what else after that - get somebody to drive it and see what they say?

Speaking of which my buddy just picked an MS6 here in central Tx, 2003 orange. At least he said it was a 'speed - I couldn't tell from the 2 pics.

I'm having a similar issue in my MS6, I was having random hard times getting it into gear, sometimes reverse wasn't there at all. I have a south bend stage 3 daily and my pedal squeaks as well. Tonight I adjusted the rod between the clutch and the master cylinder and that changed the engagement point of the clutch but so far its getting in gear a lot easier. Dunno if you tried that out yet but ill see if it helps my issue (testing it out in rush hour traffic in downtown LA lol).

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

JDR, I wouldnt worry about gas. For what you are doing, flux is fine. Gas is nice if you are trying to make nice looking clean welds. Flux will give you more spatter, but shouldnt affect your weld quality too much for bolt extraction.

RyGuy, Pedal adjustment is critical to proper operation, especially if you are having problems. Be sure to check your pedal bracket for cracks as that is a common issue with these platforms.

 

[jdr767]

Been driving no issues last few weeks. An annoying sound from the transmission that was starting to worry me. Rotated the tires, rolled the wheels around while up in the air - weird noise has left the building - hell if I know.
Reinstalled all the dash trim from the master cylinder/clutch pedal assembly install. Washed the car inside and out, detailed the plastics, vacuum & wash the carpets and seats. Minor dash detachment, some general wear and scuffs on items, I need a new shift knob and boot - looks damn good for 10 years old if I say so myself. I plan on installing a garage door opener in the 'missing' button hole on the left where the AP cable is currently stashed - just haven't gotten there yet.

Now - new issue but 100% related to all the work I just did. Driving home from dinner with the parents - start to lose clutch pedal. Goes to the floor and stays when shifting 1st - 2nd. I was able to pull it back up and it worked to get me home. Checked the fluids - full and no leaks that I can see, the physical mechanics of it all work (push pedal down - hear the master cycle - slave pushes out etc.

Let it sit over night- checked fluids once more this morning, rocked her back and forth in the garage (1st a little - Rev a little) no issues and then went to the gas station and back no problem. Test again this afternoon around 5:30 - I get to the gas station no problem. Go to leave and the symptoms re-appear. To the point I have her parked in a neighborhood a few miles down because I was not gonna try and fight that in the heavy rush hour traffic.

My thoughts:
Master cylinder is bunk. I can hear the fluid in the cylinder when this is occurring and it doesn't sound 'right' - at least not what I'm used to hearing after all these years.
And/Or
The fluid reservoir is getting excessively hot which is causing it to leak internally and the fluid to bubble? Its been fucking hot for the last month.

I've ordered a new master cylinder that should be here tomorrow.

Waiting a few hours for everything to cool down - I'll have my GF drive me back out and I'll get it home and start tomorrow *fingers crossed*

** and apparently I'm green again

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Not sure if the fluid would be boiling, I could see it in the calipers due to the heat from braking compounding the issue. But the master shouldnt be getting that hot. The master might be bypassing internally, so a replacement would remedy that problem. Be sure to adjust the pedal again as per the tech manual after. My MS6 is the first car Ive had that was picky about clutch adjustment.
Another area to consider would be the flex line to the slave. They tend to become soft with age and heat cycles causing them to balloon under pressure. Replacing with a SS braided line is the best bet.

 

[jdr767]

Drove out there last night - took a minute but got the car home - once I was moving I had no issues for the 2.3 mile drive - hydraulics seemed to work fine and gears 1-3 and rev worked no issue.

Waiting on new master to arrive.

Not sure if the fluid would be boiling, I could see it in the calipers due to the heat from braking compounding the issue. But the master shouldnt be getting that hot. The master might be bypassing internally, so a replacement would remedy that problem. Be sure to adjust the pedal again as per the tech manual after. My MS6 is the first car Ive had that was picky about clutch adjustment.
Another area to consider would be the flex line to the slave. They tend to become soft with age and heat cycles causing them to balloon under pressure. Replacing with a SS braided line is the best bet.

So unless someone else can show me where I am blind I am pretty sure the clutch pedal has no adjustments to it - all parts are riveted or sealed with no nuts, bolts, adjustable portions. Looking through the manual the pedal sits at a certain height - if not replace. If the engagement levels are different than indicated, bleed the system and check for air.

And the fluid line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder is a hard line as opposed to a hose. I do have a new hardline I will install this time around. Previously the plastic nipple on the slave end would break causing an improper connection and the line would pop-out when engaging. That being said I think I would rather have a SS braided line instead.

 

[jdr767]

Another area to consider would be the flex line to the slave. They tend to become soft with age and heat cycles causing them to balloon under pressure. Replacing with a SS braided line is the best bet.

So there is a flex line in between the 2 hard lines that connect the salve to the master, I'm an idiot. Getting a replacement for that now too - thank you!

 

[jdr767]

Removed all the lines for clutch hydraulics -
From master to first break down and under the reservoir

And the (probably culprit looking at the mess behind it) from reservoir to the master cylinder:

Fairly certain the 'stain' on the brake booster is new. Had to jump on a work call but I'll investigate more later.

Called local Mazda dealer to see what they had on hand before ordering anything. Guy said he had the first hose assembly at the warehouse and could probably get it tomorrow. Called back an hour later asking about the second flex hose - said it was in California but that he would over night it free and add it to my order and will give me a call tomorrow when it arrives.

 

[L337TurboZ]

That stain on the booster could be the master cylinder leaking into the booster. Disconnect it from the booster and pull it away, then slide a wire or piece of paper down into it and see if there is fluid inside of it.

I've seen cars have brakes partially applied causing fluid to overheat or full on lock up of the braking system if the booster fills too much.

 

[jdr767]

That stain on the booster could be the master cylinder leaking into the booster. Disconnect it from the booster and pull it away, then slide a wire or piece of paper down into it and see if there is fluid inside of it.

I've seen cars have brakes partially applied causing fluid to overheat or full on lock up of the braking system if the booster fills too much.

Excellent idea - I was inspecting around and could not find any cracks etc on the reservoir its self. I'll get out there in a bit and pull it off and check as you suggested. Thank you!

 

[jdr767]

Looking behind the brake master cylinder and heat shields there is fluid up on top, along the left side as well and on the vacuum tube across the rear top and looks like on the master cylinder ports, but that's lowest and will collect drips.

I may be completely wrong and its not the clutch system. I dunno - would make sense - it's also stock age and is probably due for a replacement. Figured the last thing I touched is what broke.

I'll have to drain the main reservoir and the master tomorrow and inspect, new to me territory now.

 

[jdr767]

Reservoir drained, master brake cylinder drained...on the floor *sigh* yes I cleaned up everything I could reach in/on the engine bay and my floor already. Appears to be quite a lot of fluid on the booster - you can see most of the paint just wiped off.

Fighting with the brake pipes on the bottom. Might need to re-attach the bracket/shield to get the stability on everything again.

Ordered a new brake master first thing this morning overnight shipping - hopefully be here tomorrow - just got label confirmation from UPS. No call from Mazda dealer about the other parts for the clutch hydraulics, may not need them - replacing anyways.

 

[L337TurboZ]

So was the booster filled with fluid or have fluid inside of it? If so you may want to replace it. Rubber doesn't get along well with brake fluid and can cause an internal vacuum leak or failure of brake assist.

 

[jdr767]

I haven't quite gotten that far yet - work is busy today. I should be able to tell this evening.

 

[jdr767]

No more work done yesterday - I was too tired and would just get mad and break things on accident.

New brake master just delivered. Picked up the new clutch related lines ordered on Monday, Adrien at Metro Mazda Mesquite is the man for overnighting it for me, gotta go bring him a 6-pack.

Also repairing my probably almost dead positive battery cable and terminals, it was blackening and when removed and cut out the corroded part I'm surprised its been working at all. Those parts should also be delivered today.

Friday the new undertray arrives after 4 years of not having one.

 

[jdr767]

I'll have to go get some flare nut wrenches when my GF gets home - I don't have any and I do not feel like stripping the line with my standard wrench - I tried, slips under pressure. Kinda stuck with this part for now.

Battery cable parts came in - probably have to Frankenstein the thing unless the small fuse on the stock battery terminal block isn't really required? I bought a Duralast splice kit (slide cut end into sleeve - tighten and cover). I also bought replacement terminal end and a length of cable - but I misread and got 2ga which is much larger than stock.

Originally I was going to use a cable, a copper sleeve and some solder finished with a heat wrap. We'll see.