Need Advice: Injector 1 not spraying fuel

[Eroler1]

Hate to make this thread as I always tried my best to work on my car solo but welp reach my road block ATM

Car vague history: bought the car without any knowledge or info if it ever was running, never met the previous owner, it was a shop that sold me, guess he gave it to the shop and shop tried to fix it but found out they dont have torx screw for fuel injectors and stopped there and car sat for 2 years.

Fast forward when I got it: oh boiiii the wiring I have to remove from all the stereo and alarm PO have, He had a viper remote start with the greddy turbo timer and a lot of speaker amp wiring i have to remove. Also when tearing it down, I noticed most of the coilpack and 2 injector melted not sure whats the cause but forgot which cylinders but one of it was stuck and one is melted. Also Headgasket is blown, vvt gear failure in the pin/lock. pretty much no start car. still bought it tho.
Did my best to patch most of the wires they tapped, they tapped the ignition wire in the ignition column and 3 wires in the fuse panel inside the cabin driver side. man it was hella scary as I tried my best not to forcefully pull any wires as im scared of electrical issue (which i have now)

Fast Forward Now:
So I changed mostly all the stuff I could change
Brake booster/master
clutch master/slave
SS clutch Line
front sway bar bushing
battery relocated at rear (Used previous amp power wire as ground going to rear and ran 0/1 welding wire gauge as a power wire with inline 175 amp fuse)

All wiring terminals and ground points are cleaned and applied terminal connector protector grease
Fixed and electrical taped most of the wires they taped and restore it
I also did my own wire tuck (might contribute to issue) but i tested continuity test and it doesnt seem to have any short on the wires at all.



Now for the reason the thread exist:
we just did the first start up couple days ago, man sound like a have a stage 10 cams bro its lopes like stage 3 cammed evo; turned out 2-3-4 cylinder are the only one firing while 1 isnt

-Confirmed the injector is not spraying fuel because we did spark light test while car is running and it does pulse
-check sparkplug for spark (pass, theres a spark and audible at spark)
-tried to run the engine without sprakplug in cylinder 1 to see if it will spit fuel thru the sparkhole (no fuel came out bone dry even the brand new spark plug DONT TRY THIS not safe testing)
-also applied oil in the piston for initial priming lubrication, all cylinder except 1 burn off the oil while cylinder 1 is brand new with oil still inside the piston)
-number 2 3 and 4 sparkplug are dark (indication its firing)

-tried to run the car and disconnects the coilpack to isolate the problem and only cylinder one doesnt affect my idle
-AFR is 17
-changed the coilpack 1 with cylinder 4 coil pack (still same result)
-changed the injector since i thought its clogged (still not firing, spare injector still not spraying)
-removed and flushed the fuel rail
-fuel press in ON is 70 psi, while running it jumps around 600-1200 (not fully warm up since im still in break in)
-check the coil pack harness for continuity (pass)
-check the injector harness for continuity (pass)
-check the injector harness while plug in in the injector (tested OHM in the pin by the transmission side, all injectors pins showed 0.9 dunno if thats normal as i tested 6 injectors since i have 2 spare and they read 0.9 all same) which conclude the harness are all solid connected to injector)
-compression test shows 181 (brand new never even had heat cycle engine)
-2 year old gas 1/4 tank (applied 1 bottle of water remover and octance booster)
-changed sparkplugs just in case (still same)

so with all those I did, I dont know what else can I do
I will be tracing the main harness next going to Injector module, as I cant find any forum post on what are the symptoms of bad Injector driver module. I will try and see if i can do continuity test in those wires.
Im currently trying to learn how to check if wires are getting power LOL i know continuity but IDK how to test if wire is getting power.....

 

[Eroler1]

Update: Check the wiring harness and its getting power...

 

[Raider]

Thanks for making a thread!

I'm wondering if spare injector is also bad. You confirmed fuel pumping to cyl 1 injector, right?

 

[Eroler1]

Thank you for the reply man
To be honest I’m reading the shop manual what’s the ohm for the injector but it’s not there so I just took the average, I have total 6 injector 2 spare and 4 in car I know 3 of them is working so when I did resistance test.
Result: all injector including the spare have 0.9 ohms

 

[Eroler1]

What I did so far:
-check cylinder 1 for spark (healthy spark) pass
-swap coils (still no at cylinder 1)
-remove spark plug at cylinder 1 while car running to verify it’s spraying fuel (no fuel, no spray)
-change spark plugs
-change injector, flushed and cleaned
-flush fuel rail
-verify pressure relief valve is closed (passed test)
-check fuel pressure while key on engine off 74 (normal)
-check fuel pressure while engine on fully warm up (400 psi)
-verify camshaft sensor working (passed test)
-test ohm/resistance of injector with wire harness attached (0.9 across all 4 injector) indicating wiring harness and injector are fully connected and no open wire
-continuity check for open circuit for injector harness engine side (no open wire) pass
-continuity check for coil harness (no open wire) pass
-applied 9v battery in injector 1 harness to verify if injector “tick” indicating its opening and functioning (ticks and open when power applied, pass)
-check injector pulse at 1 and 3 to see average pulse, injector 1 pulse result similar to 3 indicating there’s injector pulse for 1
-check continuity for injector wire harness going to injector module (pass test no open circuit)
-check injector harness for ground (pass test)
-check compression at cylinder one (181 psi)

Last things I will be doing before I give up
Pending test
-verify if pcm is working (dealership)
-change wiring harness for both coil pack and injector
-visual check engine bay wire harness (unwrap harness loom)
-redo visual test pcm inside cabin (remove and reinstall pcm wiring harness and check for corrosion)

This is the shop manual that guide me to give up LOL forgot to take pic of the injector test

 

[Enki]

Sat for so long could be clogged or just stuck. I'd either buy a new set ($ouch$) or send them all to get cleaned/tested.

 

[Eroler1]

Sat for so long could be clogged or just stuck. I'd either buy a new set ($ouch$) or send them all to get cleaned/tested.

thanks for the input enki, before i send them out ill try and swap the injector with the other injector probably injector1 to 4 (which i shouldved done in first place) and see if 1 still doesnt spray.
i live in hawaii theres no fuel injector cleaning here, lol sucks here. Ill have to send it to cleveland injector if anything...
or ill just part out...
what you guys think about the viper alarm the PO put? im not familiar with after market alarm, but does that ever have any chance of them tapping to injector wires?

 

[Enki]

That would be a really dumb thing to do, as (and I could be wrong here) it takes 700 watts to fire each injector (70v, 10a). Tapping into something like that is bound to blow up electronics not rated for it.

 

[Eroler1]

woah, i was reading the traning manual, lol didnt know it was 700w, but it did say 100v, but man, just sucks

 

[Raider]

No partout

 

[Eroler1]

Im gonna go to votozone after work and rent the noid light, never tried it with mazdaspeed yet but well see. hopefully that 100v dont cause the light to blow up, will be using different harness instead of the harness currently installed
not in the mood to remove the jmf manifold just to attach noid light.....

thank you guys for helping

 

[Eroler1]

Update:
rented out the noid light, man
Im very CONFUSED
noid light light up in cylinder one will be uploading it here
did spark check with noid light both coil 1 and inj 1 lights up not same time tho its inj light up then coil light up, does it supposed to light up same time? i check to confirm with injector4/coil4 to see if they will light up same time since i know cylinder 4 is firing and to my surprise
they dont light up same time. so injector1 test and injector 4 spark and noid light test have same result.

now, im thinking if my fuel rail is funny????????
next move:
changing fuel rail since im gonna go there anyway
changing injector one to injector 4
changing injector harness
changing sparkplug set since i crack them

One thing i notice is the cranck case smell like fuel
i remove the oil cap while engine is running and i was expecting the smell of oil but it smell like fuel, same smell as you get when draining oil catch can.


Those two wires are for injector 1 terminal A and B
I tap those to see if the injector is getting signal from IDM and used noid light to confirm, not sure how bright it’s supposed to be but it does pulse, to the point the pulse is synchronized with the engine misfire

 

[Enki]

Couple things:

1. You don't want to ignite the fuel spraying into the cylinder while it's spraying; that would be very bad, so this is normal.
2. Oil smelling like fuel comes down to the oil you're using, nothing more. Rotella is really bad for this.
3. The rail itself is probably fine, so long as it's not leaking.

Swapping injectors should be your next step, and make sure you check the connectors on both the injector and the harness to make sure they are clean and making good contact.

 

[Eroler1]

Couple things:

1. You don't want to ignite the fuel spraying into the cylinder while it's spraying; that would be very bad, so this is normal.
2. Oil smelling like fuel comes down to the oil you're using, nothing more. Rotella is really bad for this.
3. The rail itself is probably fine, so long as it's not leaking.

Swapping injectors should be your next step, and make sure you check the connectors on both the injector and the harness to make sure they are clean and making good contact.

thanks enki, im using walmart supertech since im on break in and this is my second oil change thanks for clarifying its normal.
as for that i will just pretty much swap most of the fuel stuff behind manifold as the jmf isnt really easy to uninstall and install

 

[Bigelow]

Make sure all pins on harness are straight/ intact.

 

[Easter Bunny]

Make sure all pins on harness are straight/ intact.

^^ this and make sure that one of the pins hasnt managed to push itself back into the connector

 

[Eroler1]

^^ this and make sure that one of the pins hasnt managed to push itself back into the connector

Thanks guys, I made sure it’s intact with the multi meter, I disconnected the injector harness and tested the pins in there to see resistance in the injector while it’s plug in, that’s the only way to test injector without taking the manifold off, I did also applied power to injector 1 with those two taps I showed in pictures, all with the injector harness attached to injector

 

[Eroler1]

That’s my spare harness I used to check if my pcm/IDM sends signal to injector
Left light is the injector 1
Right light is the injector 4

So I know I’m getting injector pulse
I will be using that same harness when I swap my injector, prolly tomorrow

 

[awarren]

Any updates to this? Bad injector, ecu, wiring? I'm running into the same issue with cylinder 3 on mine.

 

[Eroler1]

sorry for late update, Car currently doesn't have engine on it.