Need Motor Mount Suggestions for Stop/Go Traffic

Finch204

Finch204

Greenie N00B Member
Greenie Member
Hey guys, I need some motor mount suggestions for cutting down drivetrain slop / buckling / clunkiness / jerkiness in stop and go traffic, without adding too much NVH.

I'm trying to get rid or minimize the drivetrain slop/clunkiness/jerkiness when I'm decelerating in 2nd or 3rd gear in stop and go traffic. Usually what happens in my car is when I'm decelerating and start to approach 1500 RPM, my car would start buckling or clunking, just generally not a smooth drive at that point. I could use the clutch to smoothen the ride or put it in neutral, but that would be annoying doing that constantly in stop and go traffic.

The stop and go segment of my commute is starting to take its toll on me. At some point, I will get fed up with it and would probably end up trading in my Speed for a more comfy auto daily driver. I was hoping to avoid that and I was wondering if anyone had suggestions for motor mounts that can help.
 
I have the dm mounts... there is still a major increase in nvh over stock. If you can, ride in someone's car who has them. I don't mind the nvh but don't dd my speed anymore.

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Relevant to the conversation we had in shout about the E-Focus mount.
  1. Today at 6:42 AM - Easter Bunny:
    Efocus Mount is approximately how stiff our cars should have been stock. Available from any dealer for like $35
  2. Today at 6:52 AM - aaronc7:
    CM5Z-6068-A
 
I've had the DM RMM before and I think it was a little too much NVH for a mild daily driver. Performance improvement was really good though, like I can be sloppy and not rev-match my shifts and it was still fine. There was hardly any drivetrain slop on deceleration. It was just a little too much NVH for me.

Does anyone know if the CP-e stage 2 RMM has less NVH than the DM RMM? I've researched those two RMMs before and I could never seem to come to a conclusion on which has less NVH.

jsmith said:
Relevant to the conversation we had in shout about the E-Focus mount.
  1. Today at 6:42 AM - Easter Bunny:
    Efocus Mount is approximately how stiff our cars should have been stock. Available from any dealer for like $35
  2. Today at 6:52 AM - aaronc7:
    CM5Z-6068-A
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That e-focus mount sounds interesting and is cheap too. For that price, I might as well give it a try.

Edit: I saw a photo of this e-focus mount and it honestly looks like it will the work same as the CP-e stage 1 RMM that I have on my car right now. If I'm not mistaken, the e-focus mount has a 50A EPDM bushing, while my stage 1 RMM has a 55A EPDM bushing. So it might not be any improvement on my car at all.
 
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You will not find a motor mount upgrade without some amount of vibes or noise.

The less noise or vibes they transmit into the cabin, the softer the bushings and the more slop you will feel.

By reducing the slop you naturally hear more of our noisy engine. Not to mention the noisy stock flywheel and timing chain.

The Damond mounts eliminate the most slop while making the least noise and vibes. With the A/C off I can't tell that the engine is on. Once I turn on the compressor you get a small but tolerable amount of vibes.

So either deal with some vibes and upgrade to damond, or stay stock and live with slop. Unfortunately you won't have both.

End of story.
 
dont discount the considerable engineering work that ford would have put into that mount, they likely spent more hours on that one part than cpe has put into all of their products combined. the voids in the bushing and mount are likely very important in releasing NVH.
 
Easter Bunny said:
dont discount the considerable engineering work that ford would have put into that mount, they likely spent more hours on that one part than cpe has put into all of their products combined. the voids in the bushing and mount are likely very important in releasing NVH.
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That is a good point that I did not consider when looking at the pictures. Do you know if I need to also get a new bolt to use with the e-focus mount?
 
I have no idea. I don't use one myself I just make sure to throw it out there as an option in threads like this because it is so cheap and people tend to forget that it is an option
 
Maybe try a mild RMM and a mild TMM? Leave the stock PMM for sure.

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The Damond RMM is one of the noisier ones despite its incredible holding power and ability to hold up to abuse. The CP-E Stage 2 is much, much easier on the ears, but in my experience, it's also one of the sloppier mounts (can feel when shifting) and mine only lasted 7k miles before the bushing tore due to the fact that they use a soft bushing. I would try the efocus mount before trying the CP-E given the considerable price difference. As I recall the e-focus mount was actually pretty highly regarded on MSF back in the old days for a standard DD replacement. You could also try the CS Stage 2. I think that design looks pretty clever honestly and there's a small chance it's got less NVH than the Damond.
 
I had COBB RMM and it was really mild on NVH. Good choice for DD cars that constantly in city traffic crawl. Note that the wheel hop effect was still there although greatly reduced.
 
Easter Bunny said:
I have no idea. I don't use one myself I just make sure to throw it out there as an option in threads like this because it is so cheap and people tend to forget that it is an option
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I appreciate the input.

Chpspd said:
Maybe try a mild RMM and a mild TMM? Leave the stock PMM for sure.
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I was planning to get the CS inserts for the TMM. I wasn't sure how much of an improvement it would make compared to just getting a new RMM. It is still definitely something I will upgrade soon.

VTMongoose said:
The Damond RMM is one of the noisier ones despite its incredible holding power and ability to hold up to abuse. The CP-E Stage 2 is much, much easier on the ears, but in my experience, it's also one of the sloppier mounts (can feel when shifting) and mine only lasted 7k miles before the bushing tore due to the fact that they use a soft bushing. I would try the efocus mount before trying the CP-E given the considerable price difference. As I recall the e-focus mount was actually pretty highly regarded on MSF back in the old days for a standard DD replacement. You could also try the CS Stage 2. I think that design looks pretty clever honestly and there's a small chance it's got less NVH than the Damond.
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One of the beta testers for the CS Stage 2 RMM said that it has the same amount of NVH as the "gold" RMM he had before. So that might still be too much NVH for me. I am going to look into the e-focus mount first. Thanks.

KCi said:
I had COBB RMM and it was really mild on NVH. Good choice for DD cars that constantly in city traffic crawl. Note that the wheel hop effect was still there although greatly reduced.
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I've read reviews on the COBB RMM and a number of reviews said that there was too much NVH. I have a feeling though that those reviewers didn't give it time to break in. I will add it to my shortlist behind the e-focus mount. Thanks for the input.

At this point, I'm wondering if I should try the CS TMM inserts first. Or if I should try the e-focus mount with stock pmm and tmm. Or if I should try the CS TMM inserts and the e-focus mount at the same time. Will do some more research on them. Thanks for the input guys!
 
I got the old CS Race RMM and GenPu TMM insert on my Juan. Feels solid. Still a slight rock in stop and go but I keep her in 2nd when we are just crawling along. Stock PMM as well.
 
Finch204 said:
At this point, I'm wondering if I should try the CS TMM inserts first.
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The RMM is 90% of the problem in the stock setup. I would replace that first, then down the road, put a Damond TMM in for longevity if nothing else, because the stock TMM bushings can be short lived. Also because it's barley any noisier than stock while holding way better.
 
If minimal nvh is what is wanted change the rear mount to dm and keep stock tmm/pmm mount. That will clean up some of the crap and keep it livable for a dd.

Tapatalk, it sucks for free!
 
Sounds like the best solution is to get a cheap but comfy beater/commuter and then get the full Damond package for the Speed when you want to romp on it with absolutely zero torque steer or wheel hop. Such a drastic difference over how the car behaved with stock mounts and stock power.

I went from JBR full still mounts to Damond and the decrease in NVH was incredible while performance was maintained. Once you DD with the Damond mounts for a while they settle down even more and I honestly don't even notice them anymore. Even with the mounts and full exhaust I can have a normal, pleasant conversation in the car or hear my radio with no problem. If you ever have the windows down it cancels out every bit of NVH from the mounts anyway.
 
Quigs said:
Sounds like the best solution is to get a cheap but comfy beater/commuter and then get the full Damond package for the Speed when you want to romp on it with absolutely zero torque steer or wheel hop. Such a drastic difference over how the car behaved with stock mounts and stock power.

I went from JBR full still mounts to Damond and the decrease in NVH was incredible while performance was maintained. Once you DD with the Damond mounts for a while they settle down even more and I honestly don't even notice them anymore. Even with the mounts and full exhaust I can have a normal, pleasant conversation in the car or hear my radio with no problem. If you ever have the windows down it cancels out every bit of NVH from the mounts anyway.
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How is buying another car remotely a good solution compared to trying out some mounts. His car is near stock, because he DD's it so much.

With 88 duro jbr rmm, 80 duro tmm, stock pmm and BSD, I didn't think the nvh was that bad in my car until I stopped driving it for a while. When I drove it again after a long hiatus I realized how awful it was.

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