Neganox's Cats Can't Drive Build.

Mastermind46 said:
My IC piping runs under the oil filter. It looks like you were able to run it in front of the filter... anything special to do that or is it the bump couplers that gave you the extra play to bend around the filter??
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Weird. It looks like we used the same piping setup from the throttle body. Did you use a 1ft 90* pipe?
 
neganox said:
Weird. It looks like we used the same piping setup from the throttle body. Did you use a 1ft 90* pipe?
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I actually used reducer -> joiner -> coupler -> 90* pipe. To get it to fit lengthwise over the filter. I'll have to go back and check if I can get it to fit in front of the filter. With how it is now I can just barely get the skid plate back on.

I'm also having clearance issues on the htp under route piping but that could be due to how my turbo is clocked. I'm not able to adjust it more unless I make a new bracket due to iwg. I may just go ewg and save anymore headache. Iwg s4 under route has not been easy.

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Mastermind46 said:
I actually used reducer -> joiner -> coupler -> 90* pipe. To get it to fit lengthwise over the filter. I'll have to go back and check if I can get it to fit in front of the filter. With how it is now I can just barely get the skid plate back on.

I'm also having clearance issues on the htp under route piping but that could be due to how my turbo is clocked. I'm not able to adjust it more unless I make a new bracket due to iwg. I may just go ewg and save anymore headache. Iwg s4 under route has not been easy.

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Ahhhh I just did throttle body -> reducer -> 90* pipe. I think two 90* silicone sections coupled together by a joiner will allow for more clearance around the radiator support.

I had issues getting the the wastegate plate back onto the turbo when I clocked it. I also had to extend a coolant line to have it not rub against the compressor housing. Coolant lines are the real headache here.
 
I used a silicone 90 and a 90* aluminum pipe at the radiator support and have a lot of clearance. I also replaced the hard coolant line since it hits the S4 when clocked. You are running an S3 though?
 
I am, but the T from the coolant hard line to the turbo was a pain the ass. I had to pull the rubber line and extend it out while taking a shower with coolant in the process.
 
Update:

Replaced parts of the cold pipe. Cold pipe now consists of the following (in order from TB to intercooler):
- 2.75" to 2.5" silicone reducer: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/intake-pipe-reducer/tube-reducer-p-59.html
- 1' 90* aluminum bend: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/aluminum-pipes/aluminum-pipe-p-292.html
- Mishimoto silicone tap for methanol: https://www.mishimoto.com/2-5-silicone-coupler-w-1-8-npt-bung.html
- 1' straight pipe: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/aluminum-pipes/aluminum-pipe-p-276.html
- BPV T-in silicone joiner: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/bov/silicone-bov-t-p-455.html
- 1' 90* aluminum bend: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/aluminum-pipes/aluminum-pipe-p-292.html
- 90* silicone bend: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/holset-turbocharger/silicone-90-p-33.html
- Coupler joiner: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/turbo-piping/diy-intercooler-piping-p-112.html
- 2.5" bump coupler: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/hump-hose/turbo-coupler-p-15.html

A couple of notes:
- The triple bung npt tap a lot of people use, sucks. It doesn't allow for a methanol nozzle to properly enter the airflow stream, thus your atomization will be shit.
- Search amazon for a deal on the mishimoto connector if you need one...otherwise you can just use a normal silicone joiner.
- If you're running a BPV that uses the mazdaspeed/wrx/gtr flange, hit up @JBR for a mazdaspeed flange -> 1" adapter that will work with the BPV T-in. If you're running a HKS, Greddy, or Synapse, there are 1" adapters already available to you from the manufacturer or from siliconeintakes.

I have a tiny vacuum leak somewhere that I still need to sort out. I also need to redo the dipstick mounting.
 
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The damn dipstick. Only took it and the manifold in and out 30 times trying to get it setup.

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Mastermind46 said:
The damn dipstick. Only took it and the manifold in and out 30 times trying to get it setup.

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I had to order another dipstick. Apparently bending mine resulted in my car reading 1.5 quarts low. So it's either the dipstick or I have a serious issue on my hands haha.
 
Could always make your own if you know how much oil you are supposed to put in. Had to do that on our mustang.

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Surprisingly it took me like once or twice for the dip stick installation. Maybe thanks to yall lol
I also used a 1.25" BPV instead of the 1". I had the JBR cold pipe.
 
Finally got around to boost leak testing the car. I was having an issue where at idle, my STFT would peg -25 and my AFRs would start to drop. Apparently I suck at tightening clamps. I fixed 9 leaks including a leak from one of the methanol bungs on the manifold spacer, a leak on one of the bpv nipples, and a leak on the manifold nipple on the passenger side. Testing continues tomorrow.

Lesson of the day: Boost leak test your system and tighten down all the things. Especially that little nipple cap on the manifold... it certainly is tricky to get to once everything is installed.
 
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Easter Bunny said:
you said nipple................
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I failed at installing my Damond Nipple Clamp.

Related: I ditched my Shitnapse DV and swapped in a GFB Repons valve. After a few days of adjusting the VTA amount and the spring preload, all of my idle issues are gone and my ltft and stft look pretty decent for the most part. I'll be doing brakes in the next few days and getting new tires mounted for ENM.
 
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