[SOLVED] No injector pulse after cps adjust

Yoshi Yorish

Yoshi Yorish

Greenie N00B Member
I'll try to make it as short and detailed as possible.
Got a 2010 ms3.
Been doing basic maintenance on my speed the past year. After 15 short months finally got the speed3 back on the road.
New turbo, New head, New injectors, timing chain, coils, spark plugs.

I got the car in driving condition about a week ago. Drove very smooth, no misfire nor weird clunking noises from the engine. After 2 minutes or so CEL pops on. P0016 (timing) and P0245 (wastegate).
I reset it because why not. Drive about 10 more miles. I get the p0016, p0245 code again, still very smooth driving.
So went to investigate the next day. Start her right up no issues, Drive inside the garage.
Got the car on TDC, started taking the stupid intake box and top mount intercooler but then thought, why not check the easy location first. CPS was off by a tooth, adjusted the cps to the 20th tooth, put the intake and all back in place..
No start.
Wtf.. car literally ran smooth af 5 minutes ago now can't even start her.
Took the valve cover off and hpfp to sure timing is set on the camshafts. Looked good. Put everything back together. Double checked all the grounds, connections. Still no start.
180psi on all 4 pistons. Got spark. Got fuel pressure. No injector pulse.

I am lost. Could I have fried the ecu? CPS? What pins should I test on the ecu and what kind of resistance should there be on the CPS? So I don't go buy shit I don't need.
Does the CPS restrict signal from the ECU to the injectors? What other factors/sensors can there be to restrict signal to them?

Fuses and relays are good as well. I always think it's common sense to start there so I forget to mention.

I guess my main question is: What sends signal to the ecu to tell it when to send signal to the injectors?
I worked on mainly old school 3 wire engines and OBD1.. never had to mess with OBD2 to this extent.
 
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The ECU uses the cam and crank signals for the injectors. The P0016 could be set due to the intake camshaft actuator being an issue OR a failed VVT solenoid. You're gonna need to test the VVT solenoid and see if it's resistance is within spec.

Another thing to check is the wiring between the ECU and the crank sensor itself. Be sure to check all the grounds especially the one by the HPFP as if grounds are no good then the sensors won't read properly.
 
It almost certainly is a ground or connector. Start with the ground by the hpfp and look to see if the wires pulled out of the connector on the cps
 
L337TurboZ said:
The ECU uses the cam and crank signals for the injectors. The P0016 could be set due to the intake camshaft actuator being an issue OR a failed VVT solenoid. You're gonna need to test the VVT solenoid and see if it's resistance is within spec.

Another thing to check is the wiring between the ECU and the crank sensor itself. Be sure to check all the grounds especially the one by the HPFP as if grounds are no good then the sensors won't read properly.
Click to expand...

Do you know what resistance I should have between the pins? All the grounds are good.
 
Don't know what I mean is to make sure the wire in the connector is actually still attached and that the pin is fully seated so that it make contact with the sensor
 
Easter Bunny said:
Don't know what I mean is to make sure the wire in the connector is actually still attached and that the pin is fully seated so that it make contact with the sensor
Click to expand...

Everything is connected.
All I did just adjusted the CPS to the proper tooth and wouldn't start anymore. Connected. Disconnected. All that stuff. Same result.
 
Don't know how to mark is solved here but:
Today I tested the sensors. Continuity was good on cps, cas, vvt sensor, ecu to sensors/relays.
Everything looked good.
CAS had bunch of shit on it. Cleaned that. Replaced the o-ring. Put it all back together and it fired right up. Drove 5 miles so far no CEL.. I honestly don't know what fixed it but it's running again.
 
There can be what's called terminal fretting. Basically it's damn near invisible corrosion. A lot of times an air bag light can set due to that build up on the terminal pins. Disconnect the connection and it break the corrosion. Reconnect the connector and the DTC is gone.

Could be what happened with yours. I would suggest getting a small bottle of dielectric grease and adding that to your connections. Put a small dab on the female side pins but not too much to spread the terminals. A light coating is all you need. Keeps the connectors lubricated so they come apart smooth and also prevents fluids from contaminating the connection.
 
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