[SOLVED] No power, enters limp mode on acceleration

[chris' speed 3]

I have a check valve on the VC dump but ill reconnect it, My intakes been dry ever since I installed the catch can and its not filling up crazy fast. Im going to a garage this week hopefully to have a leak down test done.

So i checked the crankcase pressure again and there's no smoke on idle, it must've been condensation yesterday

But there's a new code which is exciting, p0113, now i've read that the IAT is integrated into the MAF, and the code means high voltage which means it think the air is too cold but its 16c outside today so not that cold and I can't push enough air through it to need that much voltage. Does this mean the MAF is bad?

I'm also noticing that it after fires quite often, 1-2,2-3,3-4. So unburnt fuel in the exhaust which was making me think maybe the coil packs are bad and not giving a good spark which would also explain the AFR getting leaner.

@Enki @StreetSpeed6 @L337TurboZ

 

[Enki]

That's an afterfire not a backfire. Backfire would go through the intake manifold.

 

[chris' speed 3]

That's an afterfire not a backfire. Backfire would go through the intake manifold.

Okay after fire, is that normal?
And what about the p0113?

 

[chris' speed 3]

code p0102 now, bad MAF?

 

[L337TurboZ]

Check your MAF connector for poor terminal tension or damaged pins

 

[chris' speed 3]

Check your MAF connector for poor terminal tension or damaged pins

I was just in the garage putting my OCC back on.
I looked at the maf connector and it all looked good visually
I also did a resistance test on my coils and 3 were 10.9 and the other one was 12 ohms

 

[L337TurboZ]

I was just in the garage putting my OCC back on.
I looked at the maf connector and it all looked good visually
I also did a resistance test on my cold and 3 were 10.9 and the other one was 12 ohms

What?

 

[chris' speed 3]

What?

Coils** sorry

 

[Enki]

IIRC I suggested the possibility of a bad MAF sensor about a week ago.

 

[chris' speed 3]

IIRC I suggested the possibility of a bad MAF sensor about a week ago.

there was a lot of things that were possibly wrong with it but now there's actually codes indicating so.
How do I go about testing it to make sure its actually a bad sensor? When i unplug the MAF it doesn't really change how it runs.

 

[Enki]

Swap with someone else or buy a new one. I get the feeling that you've skipped other advice too, so right now I'm at the point where there's nothing else to say without going over the whole list again.

I'm not overly fond of repeating myself, had to do it too damn much at my prior job.

 

[chris' speed 3]

Swap with someone else or buy a new one. I get the feeling that you've skipped other advice too, so right now I'm at the point where there's nothing else to say without going over the whole list again.

I'm not overly fond of repeating myself, had to do it too damn much at my prior job.

I looked at everything I had the ability to do, I didnt bother with the MAF because it idles perfectly
I'll try and find a speed in my area that's willing to swap MAF to test

 

[chris' speed 3]

Swap with someone else or buy a new one. I get the feeling that you've skipped other advice too, so right now I'm at the point where there's nothing else to say without going over the whole list again.

I'm not overly fond of repeating myself, had to do it too damn much at my prior job.

So tracked down another speed owner, swapped our MAF and didn't change anything. He even tried mine in his car and it was good

 

[Enki]

Then either your ECU is fucked or wiring is fucked or you completely skipped a recommendation that is actually the answer.

 

[chris' speed 3]

If the cylinders weren't igniting anything you'd know it. If even one cylinder were down (not firing or not firing properly) it would run terrible all the time. If two or more were down you'd have a hard time getting the car to move at all. It's entirely possible that your primary o2 sensor is kaput. If it's not an OEM one it might have shit the bed pretty quick.

Coils work based off load right, so when load increases maybe they're not being supplied enough power, not igniting the mixture, tricking the o2 into thinking its lean so it adds fuel but then runs super rich which is why fuel trims drop significantly when letting off? When the misfires happen it feels like its not firing properly.
Im going to take a look at my plugs this weekend as they have 2 weeks of driving on them and it'll tell me whether or not im running lean or rich.

 

[Enki]

That's not how it works, and the car can tell if there's a misfire due to coil OR spark issues.

 

[L337TurboZ]

Do the leak down test....

 

[Easter Bunny]

Go to page one and do all of the recommendations

 

[chris' speed 3]

Took it to the guy that works on speeds, we spent 2 hours looking through it. We didn’t find anything besides that it could be the VVT he says it’s not an oem unit and maybe it’s messing up the valve timing. Or the whole engine is fucked, his words.
He did a compression test with the spark plugs in the other cylinder and he got 150,150,150,145. So there’s that.
He didn’t have his compressor out to do the leak down and 2 bolts on the VC are round but I’m going back and we’re going to dig deeper into the head.

he was revving it and we were getting soot out the back so one or more cylinders isn’t ignoring the mixture

 

[L337TurboZ]

Alright look it doesn't matter at all if you have spark plugs in or out of other cylinders when you do a compression test.

The strain on one cylinder does not affect the others unless you're doing a cylinder power balance test which is done by disabling each fuel injector individually.

If you're getting soot out of the exhaust then the engine is running stupid rich or not completely burning the mixture.

When you do a compression test you do it in the following steps.

1.) Remove spark plugs
2.) Install compression gauge into a cylinder
3.) Hold the gas pedal WOT to enable fuel cut/clear flood mode and to allow air to easily enter the engine
4.) While holding the gas pedal crank the car while you or an assistant monitor the gauge. Once it stops climbing record the reading
5.) Repeat test with each other cylinder

I only put this here cause you gave us results twice and now another person has done a test and gotten normal readings across the board. So either your gauge is messed up or there isn't an actual compression issue. I still say you need to do a leak down test. Doing the compression and leak down test are a good way to verify the mechanical integrity of the engine to operate. You won't know the bearing condition from it but you'll at least know a valve, head, or piston/ring issue isn't causing a problem and you can look solely at

spark system, fuel system, tune, wiring, sensors, or the ECU.