P0234 Overboost Condition and P2187 lean at idle Troubleshooting

Midnight.armor

Greenie N00B Member
Howdy and hello everyone,
First time signing up for this forum but have reviewed it before, back when I first got my speed in ‘21.

Tried looking through the forums here and asking FB groups, some helped and then no further reply after updates. Not sure how this works but “here we go” (in mario voice)

I had no CEL before starting the tuning process. Alot of parts are new and freshly installed. So I am having an overboost condition, sent a base map from dramatune (I read some of the comments about them about 10min ago; I used them for the beginning of my build that last about 2-3yrs with my driving no issues)… EBCS (CS) connected as interrupt set up and EWG springs are set to 17psi range. New oem injectors installed with overspeed seals. 51R battery (2weeks old).

Year: 2008
Make: Mazda
Model: Mazdaspeed 3

Motor: Stock

Head: Stock

Meth/port inj: none/ stock

Upgraded HPFP internals: Yes (CS internals)
CODE: GEN-6-998-10

Turbo Setup: CST4 w/External Wastegate; no Dumptube (NEW)
CODE: GEN-6-777-11 /
CODE: GEN-6-715-Purple

Intake Setup/size: CS 3.5in, 3 series (NEW)
AXL-6-289-81111
Intercooler: CS FMIC

CODE: Axe-6-140-01100
Downpipe: Hi-Flow Catted
https://corksport.com/mazdaspeed-3-exhaust-downpipe.html

Catback: HKS High Power Cat-Back Exhaust
https://www.maperformance.com

Intake Manifold: Stock

Exhaust Manifold: CS; No Dumptube

MAP Senor: CS 3.5 sensor (NEW)

Boost Controller: CS EBCS

Spark & Gap: NGK 1-Step colder/ 0.026” (NEW)
 

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I'm not sure where to start, you mention stock motor? You are making 36psi of boost at 4200RPM?? How your engine is not hurt or even still together I am not sure. It looks like your boost control either routed wrong or there is an issue with your wastegate.. You do have a wastegate on it right?

Your AFRs are jumping between 8.82:1 and 14.85:1 which looks like a sensor fault but who knows, still would not be running the car if that was the case.

I might be wrong but I believe there is a lot of bad talk on dramatuned and from what I have read I would 100% be staying away from him.

Also, if this car is only in the first initial base map stage and you are doing pulls on it I would suggest not to, because generally the base map is not correctly adjusted.
 
Howdy and hello everyone,
First time signing up for this forum but have reviewed it before, back when I first got my speed in ‘21.

Tried looking through the forums here and asking FB groups, some helped and then no further reply after updates. Not sure how this works but “here we go” (in mario voice)

I had no CEL before starting the tuning process. Alot of parts are new and freshly installed. So I am having an overboost condition, sent a base map from dramatune (I read some of the comments about them about 10min ago; I used them for the beginning of my build that last about 2-3yrs with my driving no issues)… EBCS (CS) connected as interrupt set up and EWG springs are set to 17psi range. New oem injectors installed with overspeed seals. 51R battery (2weeks old).

Year: 2008
Make: Mazda
Model: Mazdaspeed 3

Motor: Stock

Head: Stock

Meth/port inj: none/ stock

Upgraded HPFP internals: Yes (CS internals)
CODE: GEN-6-998-10

Turbo Setup: CST4 w/External Wastegate; no Dumptube (NEW)
CODE: GEN-6-777-11 /
CODE: GEN-6-715-Purple

Intake Setup/size: CS 3.5in, 3 series (NEW)
AXL-6-289-81111
Intercooler: CS FMIC

CODE: Axe-6-140-01100
Downpipe: Hi-Flow Catted
https://corksport.com/mazdaspeed-3-exhaust-downpipe.html

Catback: HKS High Power Cat-Back Exhaust
https://www.maperformance.com

Intake Manifold: Stock

Exhaust Manifold: CS; No Dumptube

MAP Senor: CS 3.5 sensor (NEW)

Boost Controller: CS EBCS

Spark & Gap: NGK 1-Step colder/ 0.026” (NEW)
Whats the tuner say and did you finish the tuning process before this problem?
 
Says he knows there are bad opinions of dramatune

Uses dramatune to tune

I had no cel before i started tuning

What could be the problem guys
I saw the dramatune opinions after already paying and being in the tuning process with him I also added the CS MAP sensor before the tuning and saw people complaining about the CS electronics being cheap or faulty.
Tuner didn’t say anything I didn’t know, just that I am over-boosting which I knew. I went back tightened all the couplers, ensured ebcs was install on the proper ports, hot side of turbo was blocked off and ewg on CS exhaust manifold was tightened properly.

(I guess I can only reply 1x/12hours) tried to reply to the other to comments and it said (must wait 12hours before bumping)
 

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You've gotta make sure your waste gate is opening and not getting hung up or something like that. Easy test.. run the boost reference line from the turbo to the waste gate. By pass the control solenoid all together. If it over boosts, your waste gate isn't working right.
 
Another thing worth adding, you have a dual port external wastegate so why not use both ports? If you have lower spring I would run any spring between 7-11psi and let the tune do the rest. I am only on a 10psi spring, easily makes 24-25psi when needed but has the ability to drop boost if needed and has plenty of control to go in excess of 30psi+. It is also worth noting that you are FWD and you will never grip 1st or even 2nd gear with a 17psi spring and that is not fun to drive.

Also being external wastegate, you will hear your wastegate "fluttering" during WOT with higher wastegate duty cycle and personally I hated how it sounded, when using both ports, it eliminated I would say 80% of the "fluttering" sound and produces a much smoother scream.

This is how I have routed:
1788846370506.png
 
Another thing worth adding, you have a dual port external wastegate so why not use both ports? If you have lower spring I would run any spring between 7-11psi and let the tune do the rest. I am only on a 10psi spring, easily makes 24-25psi when needed but has the ability to drop boost if needed and has plenty of control to go in excess of 30psi+. It is also worth noting that you are FWD and you will never grip 1st or even 2nd gear with a 17psi spring and that is not fun to drive.

Also being external wastegate, you will hear your wastegate "fluttering" during WOT with higher wastegate duty cycle and personally I hated how it sounded, when using both ports, it eliminated I would say 80% of the "fluttering" sound and produces a much smoother scream.

This is how I have routed:
View attachment 34873
Honestly I didn’t know about this. I was following the CS instructions on how to mount their ebcs as interrupt setup since thats what the tuner said at the time. First time using an ewg. Based ok other forums Im not sure if its Corksports MAP 3.5 sensor(brand new) or ebcs (about 3-4yrs old) going. I will look into how you routed it and try to find the pieces i would need.
 

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do you have your stock map sensor to put back in? at spring pressure you are still in its range so you can determine if the CS one is going bad. does require a change to the tune though.

do exactly what @Crazycanadian said about bypassing the ECBS entirely to determine if you have an issue with the wastegate operating properly before you mess with anything else.

your tuner should have provided this advise to you.
 
do you have your stock map sensor to put back in? at spring pressure you are still in its range so you can determine if the CS one is going bad. does require a change to the tune though.

do exactly what @Crazycanadian said about bypassing the ECBS entirely to determine if you have an issue with the wastegate operating properly before you mess with anything else.

your tuner should have provided this advise to you.
Copy, i will get back to y'all hopefully this weekend. After work/classes being hectic
 
Honestly I didn’t know about this. I was following the CS instructions on how to mount their ebcs as interrupt setup since thats what the tuner said at the time. First time using an ewg. Based ok other forums Im not sure if its Corksports MAP 3.5 sensor(brand new) or ebcs (about 3-4yrs old) going. I will look into how you routed it and try to find the pieces i would need.

Yeah that is understandable, but I would switch it over to the method I showed, it is one of the main benefits of being EWG. You should just need some extra hose and a T piece to do it.

Did you let your tuner know you changed the MAP sensor?
 
Yeah that is understandable, but I would switch it over to the method I showed, it is one of the main benefits of being EWG. You should just need some extra hose and a T piece to do it.

Did you let your tuner know you changed the MAP sensor?
Yes, I let him know of all the modifications I added/had. I can ask him to make sure he accounted for it but it was also one of the questions he asks about before creating a base map. With your set up, would I have to let the tuner know as well? Or doesn’t affect anything?
 
Yes, I let him know of all the modifications I added/had. I can ask him to make sure he accounted for it but it was also one of the questions he asks about before creating a base map. With your set up, would I have to let the tuner know as well? Or doesn’t affect anything?

Yes you will 100% have to let your tuner know about it.

What brand EWG are you using?
 
You've gotta make sure your waste gate is opening and not getting hung up or something like that. Easy test.. run the boost reference line from the turbo to the waste gate. By pass the control solenoid all together. If it over boosts, your waste gate isn't working right.
I did just that. Connected the boost line from turbo to ewg and still hit 30psi., which i was trying to avoid. I also noticed two ports on the rear of the ewg that say “air” that I wasn’t aware if I had to plug or not based on the pic the tuner told me to do. I contacted corksport to see what I could also do if I need another ewg or something else.
 

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I did just that. Connected the boost line from turbo to ewg and still hit 30psi., which i was trying to avoid. I also noticed two ports on the rear of the ewg that say “air” that I wasn’t aware if I had to plug or not based on the pic the tuner told me to do. I contacted corksport to see what I could also do if I need another ewg or something else.
It's a Tial MVR wastegate.. the top is the vent.. 1 of the bottom ports is the control/boost reference port.. 2 of the bottom ports are for coolant to help keep the wastegate temps under control (Optional, you don't have to run it)..

Make sure you've got your lines plumbed right.. Sounds like you might be plumed into the coolant ports.


You might have the lower ring installed wrong keeping the valve closed.. I'd pull the gate off, take a hand pump and plug it in.. Bench test the waste gate to make sure it's opening..

Untitled.jpg


These diagnostic steps are not specific to this platform.. This is universal boost control testing and very basic stuff.
 
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