Poor startup and no throttle response

Turbojohnny

Turbojohnny

Greenie N00B Member
Hi All,

First time posting here.
Just today after changing to a new battery, car started and I let it warm up. Drove it about 1 mile from the house and the car started to not respond to the gas pedal and started bogging out and eventually shuts off. Had to get towed back home. My AP showed all these codes. After some research it showed various components that were faulty. TPS, APS, EGR. I started by cleaning the TB (didnt have too much carbon build up) and checking the TPS. Ordered another APS and will clean the EGR next. Just wonder if anyone ran into this issue? Could a new battery be a culprit to these issues? Seems a bit strange to me that all the codes pop up at once. Are they all related somehow?
 

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Battery was brand new. I just installed it the night before. Terminals were on tight. Car was able to start and drive for about a mile.

Thanks Awafrican! Please see below.

Year/Make/Model:2008 Mazdaspeed3
Mileage: 117000
Location: San Francisco
Concern: not holding idle and no throttle response
DTC's:
P0091 - Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control Circuit Low
P0123 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor 'A' Circuit High Input
P0223 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor 'B' Circuit High Input
P2122 - Accelerator pedal position (APF)
sensor No. 1 circuit low input
P0403 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) "A" Control Circuit Malfunction
P2103 - Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit High
Modifications: Autotechp HPFP, Injen CAI, Corksport DP (not installed), NGK Ruthenium plugs, turbo inlet,
ECU/Tuning Software: Stage 0
Tuner:
Is the concern intermittent? No
Can you duplicate the concern? Yes
Recent Repairs: Replaced battery
Correction:
 
Was the car sitting for an extended period of time?
Why was the battery changed?
Same brand battery. Did you check to ensure battery is good, despite being brand new.
 
I did some poking around today.
Tested battery and it's showing 12.25v
Removed and reseated ECU connectors.
With the KOEO I did hear a clicking noise coming from the ECU and I've read that it could be from a faulty fuel relay. Fuel does not prime so I tried bypassing the fuel resistor hoping that would fix it, but no luck. Then I test the harness and got no readings. Checked and tested the fuel pump relay and circuit relay, both a good.
So now I am stumped as to what other circuit the fuel resistor harness goes thru.
 
Having a similar issue that was getting progressively worse, started with the cars tiny lcd screen going blank, I checked room fuse and a few others but they were all good, i disconnected the battery and somehow that fixed it, but when I got in the car it was getting a random check engine and no throttle input, got a throttle body circuit range code so everything pointed at throttle body, I ordered a new tb and waited 2 weeks for it to get here, threw it on and it was good for like 1min and soon as i went to move the car it went back to no throttle input and check engine came back …in my head the only thing I messed with was the fuses for that lcd screen so I went back to all the fuses I touched and just looking at everything and couldnt find anything and in the midst of it the car stopped cracking and was showing the red flashing key light and they obd2 scanner stopped being able to communicate with the car, my buddy suggested it could be the ecu got fried when I was pulling fuses so I buy another ecu n plug it in just to see it the car communicates with the tool but nothing just failed connection, every time I touched the fuses under the hood the car got worst, after some digging and testing wiring we notice that a bank of fuses under the hood were not right, when u tested for power with all the fuses were they belong there’s no power but soon as u remove the one fuse the power comes back to that bank powering the rest of the fuses in that bank, traced that a relay nearby(starter) and replaced that relay, finally I was getting power to those fuses so I went and put the original ecu back in and tried to communicate with the car, noticed the red flashing key light went away and the scanner tool was also communicating with the car but still wasn’t starting, pulled relay back out and jumped the connector and the car started up so narrowed it down to starter signal, a little more digging and when turns out the fuse box isn’t getting ground somehow meaning the wiring harness is fucked up somewhere, most likely lose/weak connection, corrosion something because all this happened from me checking fuses, something must be loose and getting a bad connection for it to go out of wack like that from messing with the fuse box, not to mention I still have the throttle body code and no throttle input but with this new piece of information it’s probably gonna be in that fuse box, there must be another wire that’s loose because the throttle body went dead when I was messing with those fuses originally but I am happy it starts up again atleast, I will update later on when it’s fixed
 
SnakNP215 said:
Having a similar issue that was getting progressively worse, started with the cars tiny lcd screen going blank, I checked room fuse and a few others but they were all good, i disconnected the battery and somehow that fixed it, but when I got in the car it was getting a random check engine and no throttle input, got a throttle body circuit range code so everything pointed at throttle body, I ordered a new tb and waited 2 weeks for it to get here, threw it on and it was good for like 1min and soon as i went to move the car it went back to no throttle input and check engine came back …in my head the only thing I messed with was the fuses for that lcd screen so I went back to all the fuses I touched and just looking at everything and couldnt find anything and in the midst of it the car stopped cracking and was showing the red flashing key light and they obd2 scanner stopped being able to communicate with the car, my buddy suggested it could be the ecu got fried when I was pulling fuses so I buy another ecu n plug it in just to see it the car communicates with the tool but nothing just failed connection, every time I touched the fuses under the hood the car got worst, after some digging and testing wiring we notice that a bank of fuses under the hood were not right, when u tested for power with all the fuses were they belong there’s no power but soon as u remove the one fuse the power comes back to that bank powering the rest of the fuses in that bank, traced that a relay nearby(starter) and replaced that relay, finally I was getting power to those fuses so I went and put the original ecu back in and tried to communicate with the car, noticed the red flashing key light went away and the scanner tool was also communicating with the car but still wasn’t starting, pulled relay back out and jumped the connector and the car started up so narrowed it down to starter signal, a little more digging and when turns out the fuse box isn’t getting ground somehow meaning the wiring harness is fucked up somewhere, most likely lose/weak connection, corrosion something because all this happened from me checking fuses, something must be loose and getting a bad connection for it to go out of wack like that from messing with the fuse box, not to mention I still have the throttle body code and no throttle input but with this new piece of information it’s probably gonna be in that fuse box, there must be another wire that’s loose because the throttle body went dead when I was messing with those fuses originally but I am happy it starts up again atleast, I will update later on when it’s fixed
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Thanks for sharing the details on your issue. Seem similar to mine, but I have absolutely no start it just cranks even when priming the fuel a bunch of time. So far I replaced APS, Fuel Pressure regulator, cleaned EGR and replaced ITFP. I did just test the throttle body and I believe that is the issue since when testing with the multimeter for resistance on the flapper, the meter jumps all over the place when I open and close it. Resistance did not gradually rise and lower as it opens and closes. Just ordered another one and will test it and if good will install and will give an update.
 
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