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Raider's Clutch swap at 146k miles
- Thread starter Raider
- Start date
Back on the road! Hands down, Luk dual mass flywheel and Luk clutch is the absolute easiest on the knees. It's like butter! Quiet too. Also holds more torque so I can push it if I want to. Alignment tomorrow and look for the weird knocking at turning and all done. Pretty sure it's an endlink needing tightened.
Next up, install all the stuff I bought.
Next up, install all the stuff I bought.
Hello @Raider. New member here.
I have about 180k on the engine right now (before rebuild), mostly stock with the exception of a CAI.
Currently I am rebuilding my engine with forged internals. I'm taking a similar path as you did, with a CS turbo, upgraded HPFP, catted downpipe, Cobb inlet and of-course a tune. My factory clutch held up all these while (180k). It probably would have lasted another 20k or so. So that gives you an idea of my driving style.
On the good note, the main bearings looks almost brand new - hardly any wear at all. The rod bearings shows some wear. Cyl 3 & 4 rod bearings are down to their copper layers (barely). The oil rings were packed solid, which probably explains the oil consumption (1qt/1000 miles). But the cylinder walls and pistons look peachy! Except Cyl 3 has some light scoring on one side. Even the original honing is visible on 80% of the cylinder. The oil pump feels worn - can feel it a bit sticky at certain positions when turning. I dont know if thats how it normally feels.
Anyways once all said and done, I hope to get it tuned to yield about 340-380ft-lbs of torque at the wheel (if that is even possible with a 91 octane). No alcohols/E85 etc planned. Would you recommend the stock/LUK clutch for this build? I really love the stock clutch feel and how it lasted for me. But lately been researching (reluctantly) a single mass.
Thoughts?
BTW do you still have the CS turbo? How do you like it?
I have about 180k on the engine right now (before rebuild), mostly stock with the exception of a CAI.
Currently I am rebuilding my engine with forged internals. I'm taking a similar path as you did, with a CS turbo, upgraded HPFP, catted downpipe, Cobb inlet and of-course a tune. My factory clutch held up all these while (180k). It probably would have lasted another 20k or so. So that gives you an idea of my driving style.
On the good note, the main bearings looks almost brand new - hardly any wear at all. The rod bearings shows some wear. Cyl 3 & 4 rod bearings are down to their copper layers (barely). The oil rings were packed solid, which probably explains the oil consumption (1qt/1000 miles). But the cylinder walls and pistons look peachy! Except Cyl 3 has some light scoring on one side. Even the original honing is visible on 80% of the cylinder. The oil pump feels worn - can feel it a bit sticky at certain positions when turning. I dont know if thats how it normally feels.
Anyways once all said and done, I hope to get it tuned to yield about 340-380ft-lbs of torque at the wheel (if that is even possible with a 91 octane). No alcohols/E85 etc planned. Would you recommend the stock/LUK clutch for this build? I really love the stock clutch feel and how it lasted for me. But lately been researching (reluctantly) a single mass.
Thoughts?
BTW do you still have the CS turbo? How do you like it?
Mauro_Penguin
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Stock clutch should hold that power fine.
This is the flywheel I got. Oem dual mass Shipped and delivered quick.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/152304258560
It's like $550 for the flywheel, then oem stuff was like 450,paid 300 to get it done
thanks!
Hey guys, I was wondering if the LuK Repset 10064 Clutch kit already comes with everything needed for replacing the clutch? I was going to get the Mazda OEM Clutch Kit from Edge Auto, but the LuK Repset on RockAuto is cheaper.
I will be pairing it with the LuK OEM dual mass flywheel that was listed in this thread.
I will be pairing it with the LuK OEM dual mass flywheel that was listed in this thread.
Yes, it comes with pilot bearing, throwout/release bearing, clutch disc and alignment tool, pressure plate, and the lube.
*No bolts are included.
Thanks! Looks like I can get the flywheel and pressure plate bolts from EdgeAuto.
Just wanted to say, the Luk repset clutch kit and Luk DMF make a great pairing. The clutch pedal is softer and easier to use than stock, but it bites just as hard if not better. I think these are definitely an upgrade over the oem setup.
I also took the opportunity to get the CS TMM inserts installed and they have cleaned up the shifting without adding noticeable nvh.
Edit: Does anyone know if there is a break in period after a clutch swap? I've been generally taking it easy on the car, avoiding going over 3000 RPM and avoiding going WOT. I think I'll drive this way for 1000 miles just to be safe.
I also took the opportunity to get the CS TMM inserts installed and they have cleaned up the shifting without adding noticeable nvh.
Edit: Does anyone know if there is a break in period after a clutch swap? I've been generally taking it easy on the car, avoiding going over 3000 RPM and avoiding going WOT. I think I'll drive this way for 1000 miles just to be safe.
Eh, I did the general city driving for about 600mi. Lots of shifting and rev match downshifting. After that I commenced with easy pulls and then full WOT on the on-ramps. Clutch pedal feels great and lighter than stock. I'm also using the fidanza FW rather than the LUK DMF.
@Raider how much power are you making do you know?
I have installed OEM clutch with fidanza when I built my motor and now considering ACT because the clutch is slipping. I'm on CS turbo, catless 3 in exhaust, all bolt ons with stock fuel system. I could not even finish a tune. I would love to go back to dual mass and LuK but I don't want to take that trans out twice. I remember everyone was saying it should hold but unfortunately not the case for me.
I have installed OEM clutch with fidanza when I built my motor and now considering ACT because the clutch is slipping. I'm on CS turbo, catless 3 in exhaust, all bolt ons with stock fuel system. I could not even finish a tune. I would love to go back to dual mass and LuK but I don't want to take that trans out twice. I remember everyone was saying it should hold but unfortunately not the case for me.
309 last dyno run. But oem holds over 400
More progress.
Ooooh, subframe drop for trans... I am definitely doing that next time... Will make getting that heavy transmission in much easier.
I too am going back to OEM next change, I am not happy with ACT at ALL. Keep us updated on the LUK DM FW, I want to know how well it lasts.
The most expensive component of my build ended up being the biggest headache... I will never buy ACT again. Pressure plate finger bent within 20k KM (~6 months after buying NEW), resulting in clutch pedal vibrations. ACT said they didn't have those part any longer, but had a newer version, not compatible with old (ofcourse).
I had to PAY for FW and clutch disk again under warranty and the parts I got were out of the original packaging!!!
When I got it all installed again, soon after the install, vibrating pedal again and ACT ignoring my emails. Yes, new pilot and clutch release bearings every time.