I laughed so hard when he said that at ENM. "will hold 850 tq and never wear out"
RD Motorsportz
- Thread starter CMajor
- Start date
Does it? I hadn't heard that. But I did hear suggestions that it'd go a lot longer than the 20k or so of Act 6-pucks. Having to change a clutch at the rate of every 4 oil changes is far too often for my DD. Maybe one day, if I retire to strictly tracking/auto-x duty.
My first 6 puck, I bought used (had 3 passes and about 2k miles on it when I bought it) lasted me an additional 52k miles (in 11 months lol) in my car. I switched back to a stock clutch setup afterwards to get me by. Granted I wasn't making crazy power then. I'm trying it again here soon this time with much more power (act 6 puck with prolite fw)
First one could have gone another 10k in my car. But the TOB failed and took out a few fingers on the pressure plate
That's good to know. I've always heard ~20k is what to expect. Good to hear otherwise too.
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850wtq would literally be something along the lines of like 1,100+whp on our cars. We're not even CLOSE to that level yet. I guess it's fun to speak on a purely theoretical level, though o.0
Yeah I want to say there's about 4 cars in the cinci area that are running his clutch and they have all failed or making noise (in a not normal way). I would screenshot it and post it but I'm kicked from the group. He posted up maybe 3-4 weeks ago saying there was a manufacturing defect. Sure maybe 1 had a flaw, but 4 people having very similar issues? Seems a bit fishy to me. There's also a guy that just got a built motor from RD, I have been talking to him to make sure everything is running okay with his car. He told me that Ron had to take the clutch apart 3 different times and he is running an OEM setup.
When he said it would outlast the car, I was kind of shocked. Then I realized that the big boys pushing stupid power, end up blowing up or selling not long after. So that is not wrong. What is wrong is it seemingly failing as bad as the ACT 4 puck back in the day.
Maybe it'll outlast his cars, you know, the ones that blow motors and catch on fire.
I hear @Sho DD's his on a stock clutch at 500HP.....you'll be fine lolol
My stock clutch is maxed with a 385/380 BNR S3 tune, LOL. The actual rating on the stock clutch is 365, IIRC.
Meanwhile mine started slipping like a motherfucker at about 360 wtq with half the friction disc left. Now I have the ACT 6-pad.
For what its worth, I have my ACT 6 puck and love it. I think the 20k miles is a worst case. I will probably get 50k or more out of it I would guess (but I do very little city driving). My stocker was holding great at high 300s WHP and mid 300s WTQ. When I pulled it, there was still a ton of life left on it (100k on the car, 30k of that BT).
LUK and Fidnza flywheel I think are a good go to on a budget if you are just running an S3. Is your OEM not holding any more?
I hate hearing horror stories like this, where people take there car to recommended mechanic. And they are totally taken advantage of or do such shitty work that they break more then they fix. I personal hate bringing my car in, as I have had my own issues with garages and even worse dealerships. It's real tough to find a trusted garage, specifically one that can work on our platform. A piece of advice to anyone that brings there car in, get them to walk you through what there gonna do and play a bit dumb and here is the key, write it down as they tell you. Then when asshat tells you the rotors are warp from you car sitting for 5 days and he is claiming thats to long to not be driven, you can call his bullshit go straight to the manager with a transcript of what was said in hand. It work more then once for me, and it's also funny to see there panic in there eyes when you told them you wrote everything down.
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Mine's still holding, but I can tell it's right at the threshold. Every now and then when logging on a cold day I can see some slippage represented in my datalogs.
I like the LUK + Fidanza aluminum flywheel for several reasons, including a lighter flywheel helping to rev more responsively. But my long-term goal is 500whp @ 6,700 on an EFR7163. That maths out to 391wtq at redline. In the middle of the powerband, wtq may be even higher. I don't know if LUK + Fidanza would be up to the task. And I want to do it right the first time instead of doing it twice, you know?
470/350 is the daily driver tune. The 400whp, is what I ran at the Dragon, and I have one other map that has me at 500/400. Do I recommend it for a stock clutch... NO...my shits slipping now. Then again the disc and pressure plate have 220k+ miles on them.
To be fair, when my first 6 puck failed, it was a week before ENM 2015. I didn't have the money to replace it, so we took a stock setup that came out of my friends 152k mile ms6 and tossed the disc and pressure plate In my car with a newer flywheel just to get me down there and back. It ended up lasting another 75k miles in my car before it started slipping lol.
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Ah yeah, if your goal is that far north of 400 hp, then the LUK probably wont be the one for you. I dont know how long an ACT will last you, but it comes down to cost/time. Which do you have more of? Money for a higher end clutch? Or time to swap one when it wears out.
Problem is, the EFR7163 hits its boost threshold lower than that 5862, IIRC (supposedly it has the low-end of a K04 and the top-end of a GTX3076r), so it could potentially make a good deal more tq lower in the powerband, which could make the clutch see a lot more torque. That could all be addressed in the tune, though.470/350 is the daily driver tune. The 400whp, is what I ran at the Dragon, and I have one other map that has me at 500/400. Do I recommend it for a stock clutch... NO...my shits slipping now. Then again the disc and pressure plate have 220k+ miles on them.
To be fair, when my first 6 puck failed, it was a week before ENM 2015. I didn't have the money to replace it, so we took a stock setup that came out of my friends 152k mile ms6 and tossed the disc and pressure plate In my car with a newer flywheel just to get me down there and back. It ended up lasting another 75k miles in my car before it started slipping lol.
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Time = money (or at least income earning potential), so I think it's really one and the same. I'd rather buy a strong, long-lasting clutch, install, and not have to worry about it anymore.
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