review: Fidanza Flywheel

DTB

DTB

Greenie N00B Member
Thought I'd randomly and quickly review this piece. I ordered this flywheel with the Luk clutch kit from EdgeAuto. No complaints on shipping or Edge - the shop that did the job claimed I was missing a few of the bolts or small stuff but since I no longer deal with that shop, fuck 'em.

The only thing I really wanted to say was, I actually miss the heavy OE dual mass flywheel. If it only wasnt $1200 CAD lols.

I'm still unsure if the main difference was more to do with almost 9 years on the DMF and the Fidanza is just broken in (3,000~ km or 2 months) but it is so damn light. I thought that'd be a good thing but panic clutching/shifting makes me think my foots going through the floor and I've already cracked the firewall from the clutch pedal once already (different story there).

Perhaps it just doesnt feel as solid because it requires much less leg pressure to depress because it obviously works. It just drastically changes the feel of the pedal. Almost to the point where you think a spring is in backwards.

Note on the green coating and installation: due to my previous clutch pedal/firewall issues, the tech had to scrub the green stuff off. After looking at the pictures of the flywheel, it looked like the green coating is on a removable plate or disc held by some screws. That issue was probably unique to my car since my firewall has an extra brace which probably extended the cable past the usable point. The issue was the clutch stayed open and they couldnt release it without removing the green coating. Or that was part of the story and the ride they took me on.

So if this flywheel lasts as long as my new short block and accompanying rebuild, zero complaints. But it has to live up to the stock clutch/flywheel which was a beast as I launched my DD daily with a canned tune (hypertech) on a stock turbo and then some for 274,000km and it didnt complain.
 
You should be fine, I'm running it with zero issues but I did notice the clutch pedal is way easier to modulate. I've launched the fucker hard after breaking it in, still solid. My only complaint, if any, is that the rpm drops between shifts happen faster than I remember with OEM. Adding very little throttle makes it smoother.
 
so i have read awhile back about the green coating on the flywheel. I have one i will be installing some time soon. so is it necessary to remove the green coating? what can be used to remove it?
 
"Review" summed up: it's lighter than OEM, really can't review it because I've barely driven with it.
 
I have this same setup (luk clutch and fidanZa fw) replaced at 106k due to a failing dual mass flywheel. I really love the setup. Chatter is quite minimal compared to my experience with fidanZa flywheels in several BMW’s. I had the dealer install mine (yea they cool) and they also had to lightly sand down that coating.
 
Db09ms3 said:
You should be fine, I'm running it with zero issues but I did notice the clutch pedal is way easier to modulate. I've launched the fucker hard after breaking it in, still solid. My only complaint, if any, is that the rpm drops between shifts happen faster than I remember with OEM. Adding very little throttle makes it smoother.
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I also noticed rpm's drop faster as well. Perhaps I wont miss the old heavy feel as much as the car should be ready this week and I havent driven since Sept. New bottom end gets broken.. wait whoa.. what now lol.
 
I've had a fidanza in my daily driven mostly stock speed6 for over a year, and it makes the car alot of fun to drive for stock.

down shifts are just a blip of the throttle and release and you're golden.

Our cars do have adjustability at the clutch pedal itself that may need some attention for anyone complaining about clutch feel
 
Ditto for fidanza on MS3, civic, and rx7 platforms - never any chatter with 6puck sprung clutches.
Chatter usually means flywheel or pressure plate have deposits/warpage, just like break rotors.
I know sometimes ppl either don't resurface or don't properly break in the new clutch combo, and get chatter.
Sometimes unsprung clutch discs are prone to chatter but more due to the mechanics of unsprung discs, not the flywheel.
 
Lacquer thinner cuts it great, cloth soaked work great. Acetone may work, sometimes it doesn't cut stuff though.
 
If you don't remove the green coating and install it with it still on but don't do the initial break in drive, you're gonna have a REAL bad time.
Speaking from experience.

Also, the clutch pressure has more to do with the pressure plate (hence the name) than it does the flywheel itself. If the pedal is easier than stock (don't think mine is) then you should bleed it a whole bunch.
 
I dont recall sanding or wiping the green coating off my Fidanza. I may have peeled a cellophane like layer off, but not sure. However I followed the instruction sheet...I also havent had an clutch issues, its been a few years since install
 
Djslowbro said:
I've had a fidanza in my daily driven mostly stock speed6 for over a year, and it makes the car alot of fun to drive for stock.
Click to expand...

Back when the Fidanza light aluminum flywheel came out, I thought the consensus was that it was just too light for the AWD on an MS6 and just not very drivable. I guess that was bad info or yer a better driver, LOL. At any rate, that is why I went with the medium weight chromoly XClutch. I've been happy with my XClutch setup, which I got with the twin disc clutch.
 
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