Alright, time for a review of the new FJ Performance Stock-Flange Exhaust Manifold (v2). I installed the manifold in my MS6 with a built block, BNR S3, 3.5" ETS TMIC, all the supporting mods, and an unfinished 93 tune. The tl;dr is that the manifold is super easy to install, noticeably increases mid and high-RPM power band, sounds like a stock EM both in note and noise level, and looks stellar.
Now for the details. I hit up Matt @ FJ a while back about their new T3 (or was it T4?) flanged manifold they were teasing on FB. I asked about a stock flanged option, and he said they were coming out with one. I bought a "prototype" and got it powdercoated before having it mailed to me. It took a while to jig up properly, and FJ went through a few revisions trying to get fitment and installation on-car as easy as can be. And I have to say, the install was super simple. In fact, I would say it's only marginally harder to install than a stock EM because you can't get a socket on 2 of the EM->Turbo bolts.
As you can see in the pictures, the welds look fantastic. The collector also looks great. The runners are huge, which lends itself to the mid-high RPM power increase I saw. Possibly best of all, the manifold will clear a 3.5" ETS TMIC.
Power-wise, I saw about 10whp increase over the OEM EM, but that's on an incomplete tune. Most importantly, the car ripped noticeably harder from 4500-redline. Without changing anything, I saw an increase of 2psi (from 26psi to 28psi) and the turbo held about 1.5psi more at redline than the stock EM.
Before installing the EM, I snagged a decible meter from @JgamB; and measured a max dB at the top of 2nd of 103dB. After EM installation, I still had a top of 2nd sound level of 103dB. The car literally sounds no different after install, whether at idle, under part-throttle, or WOT. That's a huge win for me as I didn't want a lawnmower sound.
Video of the EM at idle and revving:
YouTube Short
Here's some install tips:
1) We did the install with only one stud left in the head, and it was the lower left one as you look towards the firewall. You can do it with more studs in, but the fewer the better. The studs are an inverted E10 I think, so you can use a socket on any remaining studs to remove/install them.
2) After a quick test drive, we saw that the manifold was making slight contact with the firewall on #2 and #4's runners. Use a chisel and a sledge or deadblow to punch the firewall back slightly and you'll be good
3) TMIC clearance is tight, so use the extra wiggle room you have with the turbo->TMIC coupler to make that clearance. The picture below showsTMIC clearance before we adjusted the TMIC.
4) All studs should have nuts on them otherwise you get a rattle noise (surprise!). Double check this, even when @JgamB; claims to have tightened all the nuts on his side of the manifold
5) A stubby 14 (or 15 if you have ATP nuts) will help you tighten the front left turbo->EM nut and we used a normal wrench to get the back left nut.
Now for the details. I hit up Matt @ FJ a while back about their new T3 (or was it T4?) flanged manifold they were teasing on FB. I asked about a stock flanged option, and he said they were coming out with one. I bought a "prototype" and got it powdercoated before having it mailed to me. It took a while to jig up properly, and FJ went through a few revisions trying to get fitment and installation on-car as easy as can be. And I have to say, the install was super simple. In fact, I would say it's only marginally harder to install than a stock EM because you can't get a socket on 2 of the EM->Turbo bolts.
As you can see in the pictures, the welds look fantastic. The collector also looks great. The runners are huge, which lends itself to the mid-high RPM power increase I saw. Possibly best of all, the manifold will clear a 3.5" ETS TMIC.
Power-wise, I saw about 10whp increase over the OEM EM, but that's on an incomplete tune. Most importantly, the car ripped noticeably harder from 4500-redline. Without changing anything, I saw an increase of 2psi (from 26psi to 28psi) and the turbo held about 1.5psi more at redline than the stock EM.
Before installing the EM, I snagged a decible meter from @JgamB; and measured a max dB at the top of 2nd of 103dB. After EM installation, I still had a top of 2nd sound level of 103dB. The car literally sounds no different after install, whether at idle, under part-throttle, or WOT. That's a huge win for me as I didn't want a lawnmower sound.
Video of the EM at idle and revving:
YouTube Short
Here's some install tips:
1) We did the install with only one stud left in the head, and it was the lower left one as you look towards the firewall. You can do it with more studs in, but the fewer the better. The studs are an inverted E10 I think, so you can use a socket on any remaining studs to remove/install them.
2) After a quick test drive, we saw that the manifold was making slight contact with the firewall on #2 and #4's runners. Use a chisel and a sledge or deadblow to punch the firewall back slightly and you'll be good
3) TMIC clearance is tight, so use the extra wiggle room you have with the turbo->TMIC coupler to make that clearance. The picture below showsTMIC clearance before we adjusted the TMIC.
4) All studs should have nuts on them otherwise you get a rattle noise (surprise!). Double check this, even when @JgamB; claims to have tightened all the nuts on his side of the manifold
5) A stubby 14 (or 15 if you have ATP nuts) will help you tighten the front left turbo->EM nut and we used a normal wrench to get the back left nut.
