Rhythmic RPM Jumping

Can't really tell what's going on in these logs, missing too much.
At a minimum, always log these unless you're troubleshooting something specific that either needs more data (more columns) or needs higher resolution (fewer columns) to see it.

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Thanks for the list, I saved a preset for it. One more log with those parameters attached, the recording started immediately after a cold start (bypassed). It's only showing a P2010 (Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit High) and a P2004 (Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open) which I am assuming to address by swapping the relay out for the VTCS black box. I'm working on that as we speak. The log still shows when shifting into gear and holding clutch, the RPMs rise, and then oscillate with slight gas. If there is a specific type of log you'd want to see let me know, I'll go take another.
 

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For your primary monitoring, you can get rid of manifold pressure; that's basically the list I run for my dashboard in VT.

As for the log:
Either shit is haunted, you have some kind of major wiring/ecu issue, or the tune is wonk.

Try reflashing the basemap you got originally and see if that helps the issue at all. If you're on the basemap, try a different map that is set up for your intake (or an intake with similar diameter).

DO NOT DRIVE ON ANY TUNE NOT SPECIFICALLY MADE FOR YOUR CAR; ONLY IDLE FOR TESTING
 
Those of you playing along at home, lines 1872 through 1894 show seemingly normal operation with the exception that idle control is just doing whatever the fuck it wants. Pulling timing, increasing throttle position (with no pedal input, and the pedal seems to be working based on other areas in the log), changes to fueling, etc.

It almost smells like idle control in the tune (and maybe clutch in tables) are heavily modified from stock.
 
Damn, that's about the last kind of reply I wanted lol so I basically bought someone else's headache. I'll try uploading the same Base Map file they sent me and report the results back here by tonight. If it still behaves the same way, what else might you be thinking I could do or test? (Also PM sent)
 
Normally for something like this, I'd guess at PCV setup being a problem, but given that the throttle body is opening up when revs climb, that wouldn't make much sense. Let's see what an unmolested base map looks like first, maybe there will be some clues in that which aren't present in the logs already provided.
 
I see, OK so one step at a time. I should be home in about 2 hours but just wanted to make sure I'm understanding right. When you say you'd like to see an unmolested base map, are you asking me to just reflash the same base map I have on there now and log it the same way with the same parameters? The tune that's flashed to the car now is the first base map I received from Damond, so no changes or revisions were made yet (so it should already be unmolested, unless I'm misunderstanding something).
 
Assuming the car never did this on the intake that came with it, and you're now running a 4" intake, I would disconnect the MAF sensor and see if it still has this issue. Also, does your intake have an airflow straightener?
 
Enki said:
Assuming the car never did this on the intake that came with it, and you're now running a 4" intake, I would disconnect the MAF sensor and see if it still has this issue. Also, does your intake have an airflow straightener?
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I actually still have the same intake that the car came with, it's just a generic no-brand 4" Pipe. I only replaced the filter during the tear down with a generic Amazon brand. The RPMs would still climb when put into gear when I first bought it (they'd stay around 1250 or so), but it wouldnt oscillate with pedal input like it's doing now. The car was driveable and the PO was driving it that way. If left in gear (standing still) for too long, it would throw a P0507 code (Idle Air Control System higher than expected). I found a lot of the IM bolts loose during the tear down and figured it was just a vacuum leak causing the issue, but I guess not.

Yes, there is also a generic honeycomb style straightener in the piping by the MAF. That particular section of piping right before the TB is either 3" or 3.5", I forget, but can measure again when I get home. Also let me know if any pictures of the setup might help.

Edit: I also thought about adding this - during the reassembly, I had a slight issue starting the car. It would crank, but no start. My tuner asked me to keep the PI injectors unplugged while we dial in the base map. I had a section of wires on the sub-harness disconnected and plugging them back in allowed the car to start. Since that was the case, could it be an issue that I have all 4 of the PI injectors disconnected, but the rest of the wiring connected? There's also the WOTBOX connected (but not configured yet). Just trying to help with possible suggestions.
 
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It might. Also the honeycomb might be too close to the MAF. Odd that it would be a 4" intake necking down to 3.5"
 
Enki said:
It might. Also the honeycomb might be too close to the MAF. Odd that it would be a 4" intake necking down to 3.5"
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Ok, so first, I'll try removing the air straightener to see if it helps. Not sure which of the POs installed it. Then, I'll try configuring the WOTBOX and make sure nothing stupid is checked off by default. Lastly, I'll configure the SSC to keep injectors off and try running the engine with them plugged in to rule that potential issue out. If none of that helps, I'll re-flash with the same base map file Damond sent to me.

I thought the bottleneck on piping size was strange too, but I was told that this intake/intercooler piping setup was originally Jordan Keefover's peronal Blow-Thru MAF setup. I'm sure he knew what he was doing lol.
 
Leave the straightener in there. As long as it's straight, it shouldn't be hurting anything, so leave this as a last resort (plus unplugging the MAF is an easier test anyways).

Why would you use a 4" blow through setup? I am confuzzle.
 
Posting here for when I'm back to civilization. I've seen some crazy behavior like this playing with the clutch switches.

If you haven't figured it out by Monday, I'll jump back in.
 
Enki said:
Leave the straightener in there. As long as it's straight, it shouldn't be hurting anything, so leave this as a last resort (plus unplugging the MAF is an easier test anyways).

Why would you use a 4" blow through setup? I am confuzzle.
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With MAF disconnected, it trips the battery and traction lights and still shows an RPM rise in gear, more consistently climbs to 1250 and stays there. Giving gas does not cause any RPM oscillation.

Plugging MAF back in reverts back to previous behavior - RPM climb and oscillation with gas input.

Going to try programming the WotBox and SSC today and give it another shot. If that changes nothing, I'll reflash the base map.

phate said:
Posting here for when I'm back to civilization. I've seen some crazy behavior like this playing with the clutch switches.

If you haven't figured it out by Monday, I'll jump back in.
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Well I did install a new OEM clutch switch. It sometimes needed the clutch pumped to start, not anymore.

When I received the car, for some reason the white wire with green stripe was cut, after the sensor, and ran through the firewall, and spliced to a white wire with blue stripe under the fusebox. I reverted it all back to stock and respliced each wire back to its respective color. Not sure why this was done and none of the other POs know who did it.... Any clue if this could have something to do with it?

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Disconnected MAF should not result in either of those lights as far as I'm aware. With the rise still happening, this suggests it's not MAF/fueling related.

Next recommendation is to leave the MAF disconnected and since you're on a new base map already, flash the stock tune or OTS stock level tune back on. With the MAF unplugged, it should still start. Don't drive it like this, but should be fine for idling.

If it still has issues, might be related to WOTBOX (which I think has a need to see the clutch sensor, and might explain the wiring) or SSC or some other hard/electrical parts.
 
Would this be considered a "stock level tune"? Taken from the search feature in Versatune.

I shouldn't do any kind of revving while on this tune right? Just start, idle, and gear shift to test for rising RPM?
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I think it's figured it out. I tried the OEM Flash - both with MAF plugged in and not. Logs attached, same RPM Change. Plugged in, oscillation with gas input. Unplugged MAF, just a climb, no oscillation. Then reloaded Damond base map, again MAF plugged and unplugged. Same results as OEM flash.

Plugged computer in to configure Wotbox. Stock settings had clutch inverted, and car recognized as Dodge SRT4. Set it to a Mazdaspeed6 and inverted the clutch reading. Down is now, down, up is now up. Wrote settings with all Wotbox features unchecked and disabled (until tuning with Damond is finished).

Started car, put into gear, no change at all in RPM. Pure consistency in all gears. No pumping of the clutch, nothing. Just pure consistency. Shut car off, removed key. Started to record this 3rd log and still, pure consistency, no RPM climb, no oscillation, nothing. Gas input gives the anticipated revs, nothing seems abnormal. Will try driving it tomorrow (did not touch the SSC) and hopefully not have issues. If this Wotbox was the culprit, it wouldn't explain my first drive being stable with no oscillations. Not complaining by any means lol.

Another funny thing I noticed - once the Wotbox was configured, Versatune would accurately recognize when I'd press the clutch. Pressed changed the number to 1, released would return to 0. Before configuring the Wotbox, the number always stayed at 0, whether clutch was pressed or not.

I'll report back after a test drive or 2, tomorrow.
 

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