RWD 1st Gen

PandaMS3

@pandams3
Greenie N00B Member
Been thinking about a rwd swap. 2.3 stang transmission, have to do a lot of custom fab for the rear suspension, fuel cell in the trunk, motor mounts. Relocating the exhaust routing would suck but once that’s moved and the fuel tank you have good routing for the driveline. turbo would be cooler on the side. Tear apart the block and fully build it, FBO, aux fuel, big turbo. Go for about 550 wheel? I know this would take a long long time and a lot of money but I’d like to make it happen someday.
 
There were lots to convert the previous gen focus to rwd. I would start by looking at what that entailed. You dont need a mustang motor you can use the stock motor and a Miata transmission to make it rwd
 
How are your welding and fabrication skills? How much money budgeted? I ask, as I remember this being tried on a Speed 6 multiple times, resulting in the vehicle partout, cut up, and scrapped.

Also factor state inspection and smog legalities on how you would get this to pass after.

Lastly, it may be easier to consider the MS6 AWD conversion and go buckwild.
 
If you want a RWD Mazda just buy a Miata. You can find a decent NC chassis for a good price and do a 2.5 swap/build and spend a lot less money than it would take to make a MS3 RWD

Or even find a blown up RX8 for less than 3k, swap to a inline 4 (the NC and RX8 are a similar chassis)
 
If you want a RWD Mazda just buy a Miata. You can find a decent NC chassis for a good price and do a 2.5 swap/build and spend a lot less money than it would take to make a MS3 RWD

Or even find a blown up RX8 for less than 3k, swap to a inline 4 (the NC and RX8 are a similar chassis)
Yes but then I’d miss out on those beautiful MS3 body lines. And RWD hatches are the shit. I’d love to use RX8 parts though

There were lots to convert the previous gen focus to rwd. I would start by looking at what that entailed. You dont need a mustang motor you can use the stock motor and a Miata transmission to make it rwd
The Miata transmission would work for the 2.3? I wasn’t thinking mustang motor I would stay MZR and use the trans since it’s RWD. I’ll check out the focus thanks for the intel.

How are your welding and fabrication skills? How much money budgeted? I ask, as I remember this being tried on a Speed 6 multiple times, resulting in the vehicle partout, cut up, and scrapped.

Also factor state inspection and smog legalities on how you would get this to pass after.

Lastly, it may be easier to consider the MS6 AWD conversion and go buckwild.
The county I’m smogged in is no smog till I sell it so I’m good. Never welded before but three of my brothers own welding business and I’m a very fast learner. This is planed out in like 5-10 years so I’ll be saving up for a while. By the time this actually happens it’ll be my swan song build before I have to drive an electric car till i die dreaming about three pedals.
 
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The Miata transmission would work for the 2.3? I wasn’t thinking mustang motor I would stay MZR and use the trans since it’s RWD. I’ll check out the focus thanks for the intel.

You have to use the NC Miata transmission it also used an mzr
 
The LFX series V6 isn't a bad choice at all. They suck in Camaro's due to the cars weight but a lighter chassis such as a Miata/RX8 is a much better option.
Well by the time I get the tube frame and stuff done with race stripping and all itll be pretty light.
 
Location: California

Negative, abort mission.
Smogged till I sell it, so as long as my names on the pinks it won’t get checked

Fully built DISI engines can handle 500+ easily, 88mm bore Mahle 2618 Pistons, eagle conrods, keyed crank, ARP studs, crower cams, decked, bored, 8th port, BSD, new springs, retainers and valves, ported and polished, custom DTP headers, throttle body, Xona Rotor X3 turbo V-band, EWG, Mishi front mount with custom piping, custom intake mani. If I’m going this far with the build I’m thinking stand-alone ECU, I believe motec makes one that supports our engines

You have to use the NC Miata transmission it also used an mzr
Won’t the mustang Getrag 6spd mount with an adaptor plate? I figured it would be able to handle the power better than a Miata trans, and gives me more options for higher power drivelines, diffs etc
 
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Multi Posts merged, that +quote button to quote multiple posts, is great, click it on all the posts you want to quote and an insert quotes button will appear on the reply box then you can insert them and reply to them all in one post
 
Smogged till I sell it, so as long as my names on the pinks it won’t get checked

Fully built DISI engines can handle 500+ easily, 88mm bore Mahle 2618 Pistons, eagle conrods, keyed crank, ARP studs, crower cams, decked, bored, 8th port, BSD, new springs, retainers and valves, ported and polished, custom DTP headers, throttle body, Xona Rotor X3 turbo V-band, EWG, Mishi front mount with custom piping, custom intake mani. If I’m going this far with the build I’m thinking stand-alone ECU, I believe motec makes one that supports our engines

Dont half-ass it, I say. Haha. Ill be watching!!! ...even in 5-10 years.
 
Something to consider with transmission choice is the size of the transmission. An NC Miata trans is the same as the RX8 if I recall correctly. Seeing as how those are both built on the same platform.

It also comes down to what ratios you want for the transmission and the rear end.

For example my NA chassis Miata came with a 4.3 rear end and a 5 speed trans. This made me drive down the interstate at 4k rpm at 80 mph.

I then swapped to a 6 speed trans with a 3.63 rear end and now I'm at 3200-3500 rpm at the same speed. It doesn't sound like much but when you're literally cruising in slight boost it can affect fuel economy. Plus it's a little more quiet than it was.

Another transmission to consider is the BMW ZF series transmission. They are short, cheap, and easy to find. Some places make adapters to bolt to different engines such as the BP, MZR, K series etc.
 
Dont half-ass it, I say. Haha. Ill be watching!!! ...even in 5-10 years.
When’s it’s finished, you’ll know. My career path is engineering so I intend to use this to teach myself, take my time and do it right. RWD hatchback Porsche killer.

Multi Posts merged, that +quote button to quote multiple posts, is great, click it on all the posts you want to quote and an insert quotes button will appear on the reply box then you can insert them and reply to them all in one post

Transmission has no impact on what diff you run with rwd

Something to consider with transmission choice is the size of the transmission. An NC Miata trans is the same as the RX8 if I recall correctly. Seeing as how those are both built on the same platform.

It also comes down to what ratios you want for the transmission and the rear end.

For example my NA chassis Miata came with a 4.3 rear end and a 5 speed trans. This made me drive down the interstate at 4k rpm at 80 mph.

I then swapped to a 6 speed trans with a 3.63 rear end and now I'm at 3200-3500 rpm at the same speed. It doesn't sound like much but when you're literally cruising in slight boost it can affect fuel economy. Plus it's a little more quiet than it was.

Another transmission to consider is the BMW ZF series transmission. They are short, cheap, and easy to find. Some places make adapters to bolt to different engines such as the BP, MZR, K series etc.
Like this Awa? L337 that’s another reason I didn’t want to go with the Miata, as I’m fairly certain it would be harder to find the optional 6MT, and the gear ratios would limit me. The ZF might be my best bet, thanks for mentioning it. In any case I would like to change the gearing to be pretty close in the lower gears for the twistys but still let me break 160 without bouncing redline. Though I figure would have to take into consideration since I’m reducing rotating mass, and the weight of my pistons, rods etc with more wall clearance I could probably get more revs out of the motor, since I’m not increasing piston size too much. Thanks for the reminder bunny.
 
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You don't really want close gears in a turbo car you want to be able to run it out a bit once the boost hits. Otherwise your going to
Punch it
Turbo lag
Boost starts
Peak boost
Shift
Very true, too close and you can’t take advantage of your boost. I’ll take a trip down some gearing rabbit holes and see what I come up with as optimal for track. The amount of godforsaken rabbit holes I’ve gone down, I feel like Alice. Another thing I’m considering is with the silicon nitride ball bearings on the rotor I’m opting for, and the size of the compressor I’ll be able to make boost slightly lower on the RPM range, keeping in mind our bottom ends don’t like full boost below 3k. Also, if I increase the rev limit of the engine, I can make boost slightly higher in the RPM’s and still have enough room to push boost for a bit. Also, by opting for IWG and recirc instead of BOV I should be able to maintain more boost throughout the RPM’s. By balancing my internals and supporting mods, hopefully I can end up with a boost number that allows me to maintain BAP and not send all my compressed air out the hood. Also, for my motor build I would be looking at a heavier duty crank if possible and uprated head studs, hopefully I can lower my boost rpm’s without ZZB.
 
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The block is 21” long with the belts and pulleys, and with about 33” from firewall to front clip. I’ll have to cut and fab some of the firewall anyway to make the transmission tunnel, how much depends on how far back I want the motor for the weight distribution
 
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