Saving a 2008 Mazdaspeed 3

[JohnnyTightlips]

Well, went out to take the Speed down to the corner store for some snacks and found that one of the neighborhood dogs took a hankering to my left front fender. Guess its time to source a new fender and get it painted. Always something I guess.

I still have some kind of clunk in the left front despite replacing the sway bar end links, ball joints, new axles both sides (still OEM intermediate shaft) and strut top mounts. Doesn't seem to be consistent with steering input or bumps, while small undulations can induce the clunk. Not sure what else to look at other than maybe an internally blown Koni yellow strut?

I did get some Corksport Boost couplers for the TMIC that I have to install, the current stock/unknown couplers leave a bit to be desired. Plus the new ones are red...

Lastly I have a new A/C clutch I need to install, just need the time to install it. Current one only engages for a short while and when it kicks off from WOT, I have to idle the car before re-engaging the A/C clutch, if it decides to engage.

That fender is wild, never seen a dog chewing on cars lol. Just a heads up the speed fender is different from the 3 hatch. If you find a place that's got a good deal I'm looking for one too.

 

[Uberfly]

Well, went out to take the Speed down to the corner store for some snacks and found that one of the neighborhood dogs took a hankering to my left front fender. Guess its time to source a new fender and get it painted. Always something I guess.

I still have some kind of clunk in the left front despite replacing the sway bar end links, ball joints, new axles both sides (still OEM intermediate shaft) and strut top mounts. Doesn't seem to be consistent with steering input or bumps, while small undulations can induce the clunk. Not sure what else to look at other than maybe an internally blown Koni yellow strut?

I did get some Corksport Boost couplers for the TMIC that I have to install, the current stock/unknown couplers leave a bit to be desired. Plus the new ones are red...

Lastly I have a new A/C clutch I need to install, just need the time to install it. Current one only engages for a short while and when it kicks off from WOT, I have to idle the car before re-engaging the A/C clutch, if it decides to engage.

Regarding the clunks, my money is on sway bar bushings. they're a bitch because they're mounted on the top side of the sway bar/sub-frame.
.

 

[Shadowplane676]

I'll look at inspecting the sway bar bushings. I think I narrowed it down to the car having Whiteline 27mm bars front and rear. Luckily they have replacement bushings available.

Unfortunately I have noticed a vibration in the steering wheel usually above 60 mph. This is after new tires, new axles, new sway bar end links, JBR motor mounts. Only items I can think of left are potentially original wheel bearings being grumpy from sitting for 2+ years. I may go ahead and replace both front wheel bearings with OEM mazda ones or at least an SKF or Timken replacement. Other than that, I am not sure what else could cause this vibration.

Good ol' whack-a-problem of an older project car!

 

[Shadowplane676]

And I forgot to add that lately I keep popping a P2009 CEL periodically. Since I will be pulling the TMIC to put CS boost pipes on, I'll be double checking the replacement vacuum line and solenoid connectors just in case. Hopefully its not the solenoid or actuator though.

Could be worse, Even with the catless downpipe, no CEL for secondary O2....yet.

 

[Awafrican]

Check the lines to the vcts actuator and the connections there, also it's little plastic rod that actuates it make sure that's not broken

 

[Shadowplane676]

I replaced a number of vacuum lines with silicone vacuum lines when I was doing previous work, but I'll give them another look.

 

[Shadowplane676]

Finally got the CORRECT A/C clutch to remedy my A/C engagement issues. Found out that a P.O. pinched the A/C command wire between the compressor and the block. I can only surmise that the pinched wire was a contributing cause to the VERY apparently overheated, melted and crunchy magnet. Once swapped out and properly shimmed to .3 mm, the A/C is working spectacularly.

Also, I think the vibration I was feeling is brake related and "may" clear up as the car is driven. if not, I am fully OK with doing pads and rotors as one can only trust a P.O. so far... Plus I can always do some upgraded pads and rotors instead of stock

Unfortunately I am still getting the P2009 CEL. Lines look OK so next is to check/replace the solenoid.

P.S. - Anyone need an A/C clutch for a regular 3? Unused and uninstalled...

 

[Easter Bunny]

I bought powerstop slotted and cross drilled rotors and matching pads and have been happy for about 30k miles if your looking for an inexpensive upgrade for the street. Was about $80 more than good blanks from Rock auto

 

[Awafrican]

Drilled & slotted Rotors are a little excessive for the street slotted will cut down noise and increase friction while not increasing pad wear as much as drilled and slotted. I quite like my stop tech blanks and ebc yellow, next time I'll be doing slotted and gloc pads as the end yellow bite when cold is not the best and o drive mine at -40

 

[Shadowplane676]

I may have found my elusive clunking issue. Went to do a visual inspection before replacing my sway bar bushings and while my wife was turning the steering wheel back and forth, I saw the right side of the steering rack move. It looks like the right bolt is either loose or the bushing is shot. Picked up new bushings yesterday and will take a look at it later today if the weather cooperates.

 

[Shadowplane676]

Well, hit another snag. Tried to get the passenger side steering rack bolt out and IT WONT BUDGE. 1/2 impact or breaker bar and no dice. I am hesitant to really hulk on it and break the bolt. Further inspection reveals the bolts are more than likely not the correct bolts. I am starting to lean towards dropping the sub-frame & steering rack to replace the bolts and bushings. Hopefully they are not mis-threaded requiring either a helicoil, replacement subframe or other repair.

Question/topic for research - Is a regular 2.3 mazda3 subframe the same as a speed?

 

[TRBOKEV]

Nice thread, keep it up.
I’m also bringing an 08 (08.5 GT) back to new.

 

[Shadowplane676]

After finding that the regular 3 and Speed 3 sub frames should be identical, I was able to score an undamaged regular 3 hatch subframe from the junkyard today (50% off this weekend to boot!).

As I will probably be swapping the K-frame (I suspect the steering rack bolts will either snap or the threads in the K-frame are buggered), I started looking for replacement bushings for the K-Frame. Unfortunately it looks like Mazda may not sell the bushings separate from a new K-frame. I will have to verify with my local Parts contact however.

Additionally, I did find that a company called FEBEST has listings for both the front and rear bushings. I haven't heard of them before, but in lieu of all other options, they may be worth looking in to.

Last resort is to just use the bushings in the replacement K-Frame as they appear to be in OK shape. I guess time will tell...

 

[Easter Bunny]

The speed uses harder subframe bushings than the regular 3

 

[Shadowplane676]

The speed uses harder subframe bushings than the regular 3

I'll check when I most likely pull my speed k-frame and see if the bushing part numbers are different.

Does anyone make OEM replacement or upgraded K-frame bushings that are speed specific? I have not found any yet...

 

[Easter Bunny]

It was stated in Mazda press materials when they released the car

 

[Shadowplane676]

It was stated in Mazda press materials when they released the car

Interesting, I did not know that.

My Mazda parts guy also verified that the bushings are NOT available separately from the K-frame.

I wonder if there is a generic bushing from prothane, energy suspension or the like that could stand in as a replacement...

 

[L337TurboZ]

I wonder if there is a generic bushing from prothane, energy suspension or the like that could stand in as a replacement...

Possibly. You need to use a micrometer to measure the diameter of the bushing area and the depth. There may be a upper/lower bushing combo or a large bushing that could fit in it's place. Keep in mind any bushing sleeve that keeps the rubber sectioned away from the metal of the frame. Another thing is bushing pin offset wether it is center of the bore or offset from center for alignment.

Grab all those specs and contact Prothane or Whiteline and they could probably find something compatible with different durometer specs.

 

[Shadowplane676]

Been trying to chase down a stumble lately. In the lower RPM range (2000 to 3500) part throttle occasionally I can feel a slight stumble like a misfire, but no CEL pops up. Its not consistent or frequent, but you can tell when it occurs.

Additionally, I have found that in 5th and sometimes 4th under full throttle between 3000 and 4000, i get a hard cutout. I data logged this occurrence with VersaTune free and do not see any indicators of excessive Wastegate duty cycle, or any triggers of a possible overboost condition. Boost never exceeded 15PSI as well.

I have a new set of plugs I am going to put in as the current set was installed prior to my finding out the turbo had died last year. I will be closing the gap on the plugs from the factory gap of about .032 to .26. Hopefully this addresses both concerns...


Lastly, had my first "failure" of a sort on the Speed. Had a boost hose clamp pop off on the turbo. It manifested as a slightly reedy sound under boost and only seeing ~12PSI of boost rather than almost 15. The colder temps probably had a correlative cause for the issue. At least its an easy fix...

 

[jsmith]

What do you HPFP numbers look like when logging? Have you checked your HP relief valve? Can check it any ol hot shutdown by watching the HPFP pressure spike after shutdown. If its not staying about ~1600 PSI after shutdown its a bad valve which can cause all sorts of weirdness.

Does Versatuner free log knock?