Sho's 2007 ms3 build

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Jake and Kevin pulled my motor out Monday night.


And no... My timing cover isn't painted lol




Went up to the shop last night and got to cleaning up some of the engine bay. Here's a before and after



Also, bought a koyo radiator from Jake. I'm sure my original 217k Rad isn't in the greatest shape.
 
So, Kevin did the BSD, oil pan baffle, pickup tube, clutch, radiator and some other odds and ends.

Here's the rear main, and you'll probably see why it was leaking lol


Here's the old pickup tube with the wrong oring and more rtv...


The clutch disc had some oil on the pads, so it was replaced


New trans juice


KOYO RAD!





And was able to drive it home tonight!



First thing I noticed when I started it was how tame the vibrations were at idle. When my motor was originally built, the balance shaft was retained, but not shimmed correctly... So I had some wicked vibes. It's ridiculously better now.
 
Built motor rolled 55.5k tonight! I've put this thing through hell, and it's somehow survived. And to think, the kid (former friend) who built this motor, built two other motors....one had a rod cap let go from not being torqued down on first start up, and the other; which was in his car, spun all 4 rod bearings within 1200 miles.

I should play the lottery soon ;)

 
For those running turbos that aren't watercooled (PTE), you probably already know that you replace the coolant hard line that runs up from the oil cooler.

For those that do have to do this... You usually run a 3/4 to 5/8 union in line as the hose with the 90* bend coming off the oil cooler is 3/4", then needs to step down to 5/8" as it makes its way up to the bottom port on the firewall/heater core.

Do not use one of the plastic unions that are easily found at auto parts stores... This is the 3rd one that has cracked and caused a mess on my car. Luckily I pay attention to coolant temps and constantly check for leaks, so I found it before it caused any damage.




Luckily @etipp98 sent me a link to a brass one a while ago, and I had it laying around, so hopefully I shouldn't have any issues going forward. I should have swapped it while the motor was out, but of course my dumbass forgot to.

Here's a link to one
http://m.ebay.com/itm/171989068314?_mwBanner=1


On another note, I have a clunking front drivers strut mount. So I'll have to replace that soon, pr9bably with the focus ST ones since they're $15 new, assuming none of my local friends have a Mazda OEM one laying around that they want to get rid of for cheap.
 
my dump tube was rattling against my downpipe and my exhaust was rattling against the belly brace around 2500rpm, which got really freaking annoying. Tossed my car on my friends lift yesterday and repositioned the dump tube and tossed the brace since this car is essentially a highway queen now and won't be doing much turning.

I apologize for the triple post, as I'm basically talking to myself in here lol.





 
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Did you try replacing any sagging exhaust hangers before ultimately deciding to remove the center brace?
 
Did you try replacing any sagging exhaust hangers before ultimately deciding to remove the center brace?

I have a mix of Cobb and stock hangers on it. Part of the issue is the custom downpipe doesn't have the posts to attach it to the hangers that are in the tunnel, and at this point I'm not trying to spend any more $ on fabrication or extra parts unless absolutely necessary.
 
I have a mix of Cobb and stock hangers on it. Part of the issue is the custom downpipe doesn't have the posts to attach it to the hangers that are in the tunnel, and at this point I'm not trying to spend any more $ on fabrication or extra parts unless absolutely necessary.

I have the CS mid brace that I need to put on. Every now and then I get a clunk with the resonator I added and the stock mid brace. The CS one looks like it will give me some more clearance. We removed the brace on @LynzeC's car for the same reason.
 
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73* temps tonight and it was nice and clear, so I went out and had some fun. Took a log and realized I Might have to look at a more aggressive tire... Experienced some spinning in 4th tonight.

You can see where it stopped spinning and when it hooked. @Realgib3, the car feels incredible and scary, it's awesome lol.
 

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So, since it was nice out yesterday, I went to drive the speed to work. Climbed in, pushed the clutch in and it dropped straight to the floor. Found the ring inside the slave had popped out and there was a puddle of brake fluid under the car. Picking up a spare slave tonight. But first I'm gonna try bleeding the system again and see if the current holds after pushing the ring back in.

These stupid slave cylinders are junk on these cars.

Although there is a guy in cinci that is currently using a 2jz slave with a ms6 rod and boot and claims it works. So maybe if I go through some more oem fail, I'll give that a try.
 
So, since it was nice out yesterday, I went to drive the speed to work. Climbed in, pushed the clutch in and it dropped straight to the floor. Found the ring inside the slave had popped out and there was a puddle of brake fluid under the car. Picking up a spare slave tonight. But first I'm gonna try bleeding the system again and see if the current holds after pushing the ring back in.

These stupid slave cylinders are junk on these cars.

Although there is a guy in cinci that is currently using a 2jz slave with a ms6 rod and boot and claims it works. So maybe if I go through some more oem fail, I'll give that a try.
My builder just blew through 3 slaves and 1 master. He just replaced the entire hydraulic system. If the slave is too weak to handle aftermarket clutches I would love to know about alternatives.
 
My builder just blew through 3 slaves and 1 master. He just replaced the entire hydraulic system. If the slave is too weak to handle aftermarket clutches I would love to know about alternatives.

I've never had issues with the slaves recently since I stopped disconnecting the hard line from it when doing motor or trans work. I know if you let them over extend (remove the hard line without relieving pressure by opening the bleeder), that they blow. This seems to be a one off. But we'll see. First two times I did the clutch, I had thst happen from removing the hard line from the slave. Last 2 times the trans has been out, the entire line and slave were just swung out of the way.

We shall see. Ms6 doesn't seem to have this issue, but their slaves are also rebuildable. Whereas the ms3 one isn't.
 
My new slave cylinder should be getting delivered tomorrow... But while I wait, I went and picked up the OG air dam from Jake. This was the original design, before the template was sent to Raider, then JBR for mass production. It is metal. And I do need to repaint it, but I'm glad I won't be losing any more sockets or extensions down in the abyss anymore lol.

 
Worked on the car a bit tonight trying to get the new slave cylinder to cooperate. Ended up power bleeding the entire system and for now at least, the slave is doing its job and not pushing the rod out too far. We'll see if it lasts lol.

On another note, I'm 5k miles away from putting 200k miles on this car since purchasing it... Kinda proud, yet sad about it....


@Redline (I know you like built motor data) , this built motor now has 57.5k on it. Compression is even for cylinders 1,3, and 4 at 205psi, and cyl 2 is at 200 on my friends tester. Maybe a high reading, but it's consistent with the last test at ~47k. 2500 miles on the current oil, and I've only added a quarter of a quart of oil (using Brad Penn 10w40) . Those miles include a dozen 4th gear pulls while tuning, and about a dozen and a half WOT pulls screwing around on the street. I'll be changing the oil next week and sending off a sample to Blackstone for UOA.
 
Awesome to see a built motor last like this. I fully plan to put that many and more miles on my built motor as well. We will see how she does with all the track days and whatnot included in the drive time.
 
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