Sho's 2007 ms3 build
- Thread starter Sho
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Sho
Silver Member
If anything it's just faded. Any other blemishes have come from the motor going in and out of the car for work.
Here's a pic from the day it was installed on my stock block.
Sho
Silver Member
Welp, looks like it's time for new Hpfp internals. Seeing pressure drop to ~500psi right at peak tq rpm for a cell or two (~5300rpm), before going back up, and also in low load situations out of boost around 4k; even after cleaning up the sticky death that I thought was causing it.
The autotechs in the car, I bought used off the other forum back in spring 2013, and I've put roughly another 175k on em, so I can't really say I'm surprised lol. At least I got my monies worth!
The autotechs in the car, I bought used off the other forum back in spring 2013, and I've put roughly another 175k on em, so I can't really say I'm surprised lol. At least I got my monies worth!
Your experience seems different than mine for some reason. When my internals failed (due to stiction between the piston and cylinder caused by "gas residue" according to Autotech per their analysis), I went from having normal logs, to feeling some breakup at WOT, to this, which I realize almost everyone who knows me has seen before but I'll post it again anyway...:
I usually only see the "single cell drop" thing in cars that have spill valve problems, although I've seen it on cars with bad internals, too. I think in theory this can also be caused by a bad high pressure relief valve. May be worth double checking these items before spending money on new internals I think.
Sho
Silver Member
Spill valve was cleaned last night, problem still persisted. As far as the relief valve, I did the KOEO test, and pressure rises as it should all the way to crack pressure before dropping. I don't have the tools currently to pull the entire Hpfp and remove the internals for inspection, so maybe I'll do that this weekend at a friend's and check before I buy new internals. 
Sho
Silver Member
Welp, thanks to @Littleloogy for his input earlier today when we chatted, I tore down the Hpfp internals completely for the first time.
Cleaned with redline sl-1 and reassembled.
It took these
To get this to look not coated in black crud
Again, not black death, but sticky death for sure on the piston itself
The car no longer misses/bucks in low load situations, and doesn't randomly drop pressure in those situations anymore.
Did a wot log as well. It was 68* out, so I blew the tires off in 4th lol. No more drop to 500psi. A small drop to ~1700, but that's acceptable. (I have a 2150 relief valve and have one of the few cars it didn't cause cuts at high rpm on, so don't mind the values being over the 1850 crack pressure of the oem RV... I've run +2000 psi on this valve for over 100k miles now)
We'll see if it stays like this the next few days as I'll be driving the speed for work and it should be warm enough to pull off a 4th gear log without spinning the tires!
Cleaned with redline sl-1 and reassembled.
It took these
To get this to look not coated in black crud
Again, not black death, but sticky death for sure on the piston itself
The car no longer misses/bucks in low load situations, and doesn't randomly drop pressure in those situations anymore.
Did a wot log as well. It was 68* out, so I blew the tires off in 4th lol. No more drop to 500psi. A small drop to ~1700, but that's acceptable. (I have a 2150 relief valve and have one of the few cars it didn't cause cuts at high rpm on, so don't mind the values being over the 1850 crack pressure of the oem RV... I've run +2000 psi on this valve for over 100k miles now)
We'll see if it stays like this the next few days as I'll be driving the speed for work and it should be warm enough to pull off a 4th gear log without spinning the tires!
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Yuck. Amazing what a little bit of corn in the fuel can do over time. Glad it's working now and that you did not have to order new internals. I'd much rather see you spend the money on more go faster parts.
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Out of curiosity, how much extra fuel does the 2150 psi relief valve allow your car to flow?
Sho
Silver Member
Back when I was running E23, 5858 and stock block, 22psi; roughly a 10% decrease in IDC
Sho
Silver Member
My tuna is targeting 2056psi in certain loads. Keep in mind these upgraded relief valves cause fuel cut in high rpm on 95% of the cars they were tried on, and cost $400. So that's a pretty expensive experiment that may not even work. I lucked out and found one used on msf for dirt cheap, so we tried it. Most tuners will tell you not to bother.
Meh, just cap the Relief Valve. Cheaper.
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Sho
Silver Member
Cobb. Has nothing to do with the tune tho afaik. The fp sensor doesn't like being pegged.
[doublepost=1502334819][/doublepost]So the other banned person in this thread that isn't redline installed the rear portion of my mazdaspeed coilovers back when I got them while I did the fronts. I never really got under the car in the back in the 100k+ miles they've been on the car, but I went to go raise the rear of the car tonight and found this...
That Circular plate with the 3 bolts is supposed to be below the lca with the perch above the lca seated in the spring, Lmao. Holy Buddha was I pissed when I saw that. Dropped the control arm down to unfuck it all and got it all oriented the way it should be. But the fucking threads on the adjustment are fucked, so I can't raise the rear up....many curse words were said. So now to figure out if KW will sell just the perch so I can unfuck my rear suspension. Crazy thing is it never made any noise back there, so I never really looked. But that's what I get for trusting people...
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I swapped the rear springs on my KW's to a 2.5" setup. I have those adjusters in a box. If you need them, they are yours.
Sho
Silver Member
So back in June, I took the car to the new dragstrip that opened up not too far from home. Prior to that trip, I had only made one pass ever in the car, and that was on stock turbo (ran 13.9 @ 106).
So being a complete noob, first pass with actual power, I stalled off the line tripping the timer and finished with a 16.6 @116 and 6.5 second 60ft Lmao. Next pass I tried to launch it and wheel hopped so hard the wheel speed sensor shut off and the outer boot on the driver axle ripped.
Anyways, after replacing that axle the car was always pulling left while engine braking... Never while on the gas and never when coasting. All mounts were checked etc...
Finally the other night I found the bolt holding the steering rack down to the subframe on the driver side had backed out, so that got tightened up. Took the car to get aligned yesterday at the local Firestone since their manager is a track junky and allows for custom specs.
This is what everything looked like (LOL)
Here's after alignment (I requested 0.16* total toe up front for a little bit more turn in response since I still take the car thru some twisties). Don't mind the rear having so much camber... Until I get the replacement adjusters, I can't raise the rear and run less camber otherwise I'll destroy the tires on the rear fenders. Alignment was done with me sitting in the car.
So being a complete noob, first pass with actual power, I stalled off the line tripping the timer and finished with a 16.6 @116 and 6.5 second 60ft Lmao. Next pass I tried to launch it and wheel hopped so hard the wheel speed sensor shut off and the outer boot on the driver axle ripped.
Anyways, after replacing that axle the car was always pulling left while engine braking... Never while on the gas and never when coasting. All mounts were checked etc...
Finally the other night I found the bolt holding the steering rack down to the subframe on the driver side had backed out, so that got tightened up. Took the car to get aligned yesterday at the local Firestone since their manager is a track junky and allows for custom specs.
This is what everything looked like (LOL)
Here's after alignment (I requested 0.16* total toe up front for a little bit more turn in response since I still take the car thru some twisties). Don't mind the rear having so much camber... Until I get the replacement adjusters, I can't raise the rear and run less camber otherwise I'll destroy the tires on the rear fenders. Alignment was done with me sitting in the car.
If only we had a dollar for every mile driven... that would not be too bad.
Instead, you have driven an average of 108 miles per day, and with average fuel costs to drive the 108 miles is about $10.46/day. Total days it took to travel 200k miles is 1838 days. This makes the total fuel costs for the car to over $19,200. ouch!
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Instead, you have driven an average of 108 miles per day, and with average fuel costs to drive the 108 miles is about $10.46/day. Total days it took to travel 200k miles is 1838 days. This makes the total fuel costs for the car to over $19,200. ouch!
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