The eonon unit is plug and play with bose in the gen2s. You only need a PAC module if you're running the stock headunit and want to run aftermarket amps. Utilize the RCA outs on the eonon unit to add additional amps.
Slug's Genpu Newb Chronicle
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The eonon unit is plug and play with bose in the gen2s. You only need a PAC module if you're running the stock headunit and want to run aftermarket amps. Utilize the RCA outs on the eonon unit to add additional amps.
Slug
Greenie N00B Member
Yah the Eonon marketing says this, but the unit installed without any harness modification still has hiss/static with no volume and extreme volume at the lowest volume settings (same issues people complained about with previously Eonon units w/ Bose). So it doesn't appear to be exactly plug and play to sound like it should (the past fixes for previous units still appear to need to apply here). Eonon head unit is still sending an amplified signal to the Bose amp(s), which I think is causing the problems.
The PAC instructions say "for replacing a factory radio when you want to retain factory amplifier" so this can't be too far off but I must be hooking things up incorrectly. That or the OEM1 PAC module I got is just broken. Images of it working show it lit up, and mine isn't showing any illumination on the right side when hooked up in line after the head unit and car stereo harness.
Slug
Greenie N00B Member
I believe so.
Warning, rant about to occur...
After about a week of working on this, I've formed a rather sour opinion of Eonon. They were pretty much useless as far as technical assistance. For example, their suggestion for the dead pixels on my LCD was to verify that I removed the plastic cover from the LCD. Really? A LCD hardware failure is caused by a thin film of protective plastic? I found their technical assistance to be a joke and was often composed of incomplete responses that just dragged on the case needlessly.
After reading in multiple forums, it appears that people have been providing Eonon with great feedback for the past year and a half and most of the same issues are still present. I think a lot of it has to do with Eonon not actually being the company that makes these (that is Klyde). They purchase them from Klyde and then re-brand them and apply their own Android variant. Eonon actually tries to lie about this and says they mfr them in-house and have been for 14 years. If you look at the actual serial numbers etc, they are Klyde serials and there is plenty of information online indicating they are actually re-branded Klyde units. I believe Eonon makes the car specific housings for them though (so they look stock).
I've found that there are some people who have greater success with the Joying or Pumpkin re-branded Klyde units even though they don't look stock. But I think I'm done dabbling in cheap Chinese stereos. Not worth the hassle in my opinion based on the trade-off in sound quality. Now, if you are a car stereo expert and have the time to map the harnesses, study the Mazda wire diagrams and splice things up, and don't care about the sub-par sound quality, then by all means, enjoy a Eonon unit. There were solutions for each of the problems I had. I'm just unwilling to carry out the splices and modifications of the harnesses at this point because the unit was supposed to be plug-n-play per the Eonon marketing. They are NOT plug-n play.
Even my Eonon aux harness that was supposed to allow me to retain the factory aux jack wasn't wired properly. I'd have to re-pin the fucking harness myself. I didn't buy the Eonon unit with this shit in mind and it took me hours to just research what the problem was. Too much time wasted in a badly sounding stereo.
I returned my Eonon for a refund yesterday. At my cost too btw ($30.00 return shipping). To me, they should have paid this because they failed to meet their marketing claims on multiple fronts. Not only that, I got a defective LCD with a bunch of dead pixels.
Now, I did discover the potential issues the unit was going to have prior to receiving it (but after purchasing). I tried to have them cancel the shipment while the package was STILL in Hong Kong. They refused the cancellation. I believe they used me to import the unit, as I will also be having to pay the original duty tax on it when FedEx sends me the bill. They had me return the unit to their US warehouse in NJ. To me, this was horrible customer service because they would be out the original shipping cost regardless if I received the unit and ended up returning it later.
So, fuck Eonon.
/rant
At least you didn't deal with the CANBUS issues their old batch had. Doors not locking was always fun.
I ended up running the stock headunit with a PAC module to wire in a new sub and amp. TBH, the stock headunit isn't bad at all. If you want to ditch the speakers and sub; use the PAC module to wire in new amps and then run wires to the new speakers/subs. Android Auto works on all devices now too, so zero fucks given about an android headunit.
I ended up running the stock headunit with a PAC module to wire in a new sub and amp. TBH, the stock headunit isn't bad at all. If you want to ditch the speakers and sub; use the PAC module to wire in new amps and then run wires to the new speakers/subs. Android Auto works on all devices now too, so zero fucks given about an android headunit.
Slug
Greenie N00B Member
I'm sure their newest unit that I describe here also has CANBUS issues. My digital temp/fan speed indicators in the dash screen weren't illuminated when I powered on the Eonon unit when just testing it straight out of the box. When I plugged my stock one back in, BOOM, all temp/fan indicators were illuminated again.
WOW, what an interesting thread for this newb. I picked up my son's 2010 Speed 3 with 83K miles. The clear coat oxidized bad do I did a really good repaint and it looks awesome in Celestial Blue, the original color. A couple of bent wheels made for a really rough ride, so I picked up an inexpensive set of Drag wheels with Pirelli P-Zero tires. I'm also a big buy at 6'4", 250lbs and find the seats to be just OK in the comfort area. Lots of headroom is nice. I did a very inexpensive HID headlight upgrade, which was a huge improvement over the stock yellow. I did some interior light bulb changes for more brightness, did the CS leather shift knob and like it. My CS short air intake was supposed to arrive today, so will now come tomorrow. Install this weekend. I did the front brakes with OEM rotors and pads when my son owned the car. I am reading with interest the whole motor mount discussion. I find the transmission to be really smooth with some clutch finesse and more practice. I'm loving this car as it is a blast to drive. I appreciate the patience with newness found in this thread and forum (as compared to the other forums) and feel like I can get my questions answered here. Thanks for that!
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Slug
Greenie N00B Member
Be careful putting the intake in without hpfp internals. Did your son install those? Do you have a monitoring/tuning solution in place (like a cobb AP or versatuner with tablet?)? Flow mods are touchy with the fuel system in this car. Doing this without supporting mods first in place may give you issues (this includes an air intake). Others know more than me of course and I hope they can chime in.
Intake usually isn't that big a deal. It's a downpipe that you have to worry about, especially if it's catless/more free-flowing. You'll be making more boost easily which requires a more fuel = going lean under full load: a recipe for disaster.
I thought it was pretty well established that ANY flow mods on a pu are somewhat risky without HPFP done? They're more finicky than genwons.
Finch204
Greenie N00B Member
Stock sized intake, on a Genpu running a stock tune, with stock fuel pump internals is fine. You're actually not really going to notice much performance improvements, which is why it doesn't tax the stock fuel pump. I ran with the CS Stage 2 SRI/TIP for over 20k miles on my pu with the stock tune and stock fuel pump internals. I didn't run into any issues with it.
Stock sized intake, on a Genpu running a tune, with stock fuel pump internals could be a problem. Especially if the tune you are running does not take into account a stock fuel pump. You can simply get a flash tune from one of the tuners that will work with the stock fuel pump and you will be okay.
Exhaust mods (downpipe/racepipe) on a speed running a stock tune, with stock fuel pump internals is definitely not fine. The VE improvements that these mods bring will cause boost levels to rise even on a stock tune, which means your stock fuel pump will now be a liability.
Stock sized intake, on a Genpu running a tune, with stock fuel pump internals could be a problem. Especially if the tune you are running does not take into account a stock fuel pump. You can simply get a flash tune from one of the tuners that will work with the stock fuel pump and you will be okay.
Exhaust mods (downpipe/racepipe) on a speed running a stock tune, with stock fuel pump internals is definitely not fine. The VE improvements that these mods bring will cause boost levels to rise even on a stock tune, which means your stock fuel pump will now be a liability.
Nope. I had an intake and an AP and verified my HPFP flow was totally fine. This was a looooooong time ago, before all the mods I have now.
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Depends on the tune. If it cranks up the boost, yep, you could have issues. That's the whole problem with DP's on cars without HPFPs - the boost raises to a level the fueling can't match. This becomes the case even more so in the cold, so you have to watch it like a hawk. You could be fine on a normal day, but in the danger zone on a cold night. Best advice: always get the HPFP before messing with the DP.
I ran an Stage 1 OTS tune a loooooong time ago, when the car only had an intake. I was totally fine as verified by my HPFP actual pressure on the AP.
Personally I would say that what is well established is that you should measure that shit. We've seen cars both ways. Either way I'd say that ideally a WOT log should be taken before/after to verify. Given that you can get a decent read on the situation with a $10 BT adapter and a free app, I see no reason anyone couldn't just measure it, eliminating all questions, suppositions, and arguments.
Absolutely. ALWAYS verify with your AP. You should be pulling checkup logs on the regular anyways when you're tuned. It just goes with the territory when responsibly taking care of a tuned car.
You'll hear no argument from me on that. I've just frequently read on the other forum that pus are susceptible to issues with only an intake done before HPFP.
Again, not mine. Not with a CP-e Nano. Not in my climate. But those are all my particular variables. Checking is always the way to go. I checked to verify I had no issues. I checked numerous times, in fact, especially as it got colder.
I can tell you from years of tuning Wons, Pus, and 6s that exhaust mods are much more likely to cause increased fueling demands because of how the WGDC and WG Dynamics tables operate. In laymen's terms, exhaust mods, like a DP, are much more likely to cause your to boost to be several higher psi than it was before, even with zero changes to the tune (due to how turbos loving free-flowing exhaust). You could be a 16psi max before a DP, for instance, and suddenly start seeing 18psi+ post-install. And that extra boost requires extra fuel. THAT'S what gets people into trouble if they don't have internals - it causes lean conditions at times of greatest fuel demand - WOT.
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Thanks for the head's up. Putting the internals in the fuel pump is on the "to do" list for me. In the meantime, the reading I did on the Corksport site indicated that the short air intake mod doesn't require it. I agree that it is important to upgrade the fuel pump internals but I have no plans to do any more engine mods....yeah, I know, famous last words.....
Thanks again for the input and support.
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Red, aren't you normally the king of "anecdotal evidence is worthless?" Your experience may easily vary from others. All I'm saying -again- is that I've read multiple times to do HPFP first on a pu because even just an intake CAN cause problems. Not will, but can.
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No, anecdotal evidence is one of the weaker forms of proof, but that doesn't mean it has no value. Research modding without HPFP upgrades, Sharks. You'll find far more problems related to Genpus, and specifically to DPs, than intakes. Can intakes cause problems? Yes. Are DPs MUCH MORE LIKELY? Absolutely without question. The collective experience of thousands of Speed drivers has proven this. But in the end, the biggest point is this: test your specific car with your specific mods. That >>> any other proof. Run logs often and monitor your AP religiously ESPECIALLY when you put a new mod on.
I've done plenty of research on non-HPFP modding, and I'm telling you what the general consensus that I've read is, in regards to pus. So sorry if you disagree with the opinion that I'm simply repeating for someone else's potential benefit.
