Strange issue with Cobb stage 1 tune

ShatteredPixelz

ShatteredPixelz

Greenie N00B Member
Hello all,
I have a question about my 2006 Mazdaspeed6. When running the stage 1 Cobb OTS tune, my car barley hits 13lbs of boost. Curiously, on stage 0 the car hits close to 16lbs all day! I've read around and haven't found a definitive answer as to why this is happening, but I have some ideas. The car feels like it runs fine on both tunes and the stage 1 map feels a tad bit faster, but that could be some placebo. I can post logs tomorrow evening if necessary.

Thanks,
-S
 
Yes ditch Cobb's ots map and go get one from freektune, I've been driving his for years now and it runs better than the stock map ever did.
 
Where are the logs? I would not mind taking a look and see if there is anything concerning as to why you are going slower rather than faster.

+1 on a professional tuner. Hypnotic Is another tuning option. Self tooning seems to be a thing of the past anymore.


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second the logs. A stock car should run fine on a stage 1 map. We might be able to help you sort something out if there is actually a problem. Did you pick the stage 1 map that's for a stock intake?

stage 1 is a boost based. Stage 0 is a stock map that is load based that will increase boost to hit the desired load (in over simplified terms)
 
ShatteredPixelz said:
That's coming soon. The fuel pump is fine right now pushing just under 1800PSI under WOT. Here is a bad log I took but I accidentally broke my glovebox latch as it won't open anymore and the accessport is inside so this is the only log I have. https://datazap.me/u/shatteredpixelz/log1?log=0&data=2-13
I just run stage 0 now regardless for saftey.
Click to expand...
Your fuel pressure under WOT doesn't mean anything. The HPFPs fail at the drop of a hat, it's not a gradual failure. It's a working one second, and then not working the next.

I would also recommend live monitoring your data, not throwing the AP in the glovebox and sending it.
 
_Mazdarati said:
Your fuel pressure under WOT doesn't mean anything. The HPFPs fail at the drop of a hat, it's not a gradual failure. It's a working one second, and then not working the next.

I would also recommend live monitoring your data, not throwing the AP in the glovebox and sending it.
Click to expand...
I watch my HPFP like a hawk!
 
Littleloogy said:
Where are the logs? I would not mind taking a look and see if there is anything concerning as to why you are going slower rather than faster.

+1 on a professional tuner. Hypnotic Is another tuning option. Self tooning seems to be a thing of the past anymore.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Click to expand...
I'll take two more logs this weekend and post them here. One on "stage 0" and one on "stage 1".
 
the hpfp pressure can drop and come back faster than you can see it. Honestly, I'd watch afr's more closely. if it ever goes above like 12.1 at WOT end the pull. HPFP is good to watch but the real consequence of it failing is afr rising.
 
The HPFP thing is less of an issue on first gens (second gen fueling logic states that if you're running out of fuel to add more fuel, making it worse), so if you're good in the winter I'm sure you'll be fine. The lack of HPFP can also be tuned around if you know what you're doing (if you want more detail, there's a fuel system thread on here by me that might clear things up a bit for you).

As for the stage 1 running less boost, it's probably running more timing and compensating with lower boost which likely opens up for a smoother power curve across the top end; this is all me just stroking my neckbeard but it makes sense as timing opens up a lot of power on these engines.

Ultimately, staged tunes are a one size fits all approach to tuning, and that doesn't fit very well with cars that aren't brand spanking new with the expected modifications for said stage tune. Even a dirty air filter or the wrong oil can send it out of whack.

Side note: If you're not using a Dexos Gen 2 oil, you should start. DI engines like to blow up when lifting off the throttle on freeway offramps, even if you've only been cruising, and this is caused by oil composition (again, there's threads here on that).

TLDR:
1. Don't sweat the boost difference on the stage tune; it's likely not much different (power wise) from stage 0 tune.
2. Get an upgraded HPFP when you can. Until then, don't run a stage tune that calls for HPFP if you don't have it.
3. Get a protune or learn to self tune.
4. Change your oil to a known good oil.
5. Get better gas.
 
Last edited:
Enki said:
The HPFP thing is less of an issue on first gens (second gen fueling logic states that if you're running out of fuel to add more fuel, making it worse), so if you're good in the winter I'm sure you'll be fine. The lack of HPFP can also be tuned around if you know what you're doing (if you want more detail, there's a fuel system thread on here by me that might clear things up a bit for you).

As for the stage 1 running less boost, it's probably running more timing and compensating with lower boost which likely opens up for a smoother power curve across the top end; this is all me just stroking my neckbeard but it makes sense as timing opens up a lot of power on these engines.

Ultimately, staged tunes are a one size fits all approach to tuning, and that doesn't fit very well with cars that aren't brand spanking new with the expected modifications for said stage tune. Even a dirty air filter or the wrong oil can send it out of whack.

Side note: If you're not using a Dexos Gen 2 oil, you should start. DI engines like to blow up when lifting off the throttle on freeway offramps, even if you've only been cruising, and this is caused by oil composition (again, there's threads here on that).

TLDR:
1. Don't sweat the boost difference on the stage tune; it's likely not much different (power wise) from stage 0 tune.
2. Get an upgraded HPFP when you can. Until then, don't run a stage tune that calls for HPFP if you don't have it.
3. Get a protune or learn to self tune.
4. Change your oil to a known good oil.
Click to expand...
I just changed my oil to some fully synthetic 5W-30 because I was in a pinch and that's all I could find in enough of a quantity. But next time I'll switch to 5W-40 Fully synth. My air filter is horrendously dirty right now and I plan on replacing it with the cobb SRI. I've read on MSF that most of the intake side stuff is fine w/o an immediate tune but I only drive the car too and from home right now soon once the quarter is over (college life yay) I'll probably get a Freek OTS+ tune. I've only had the car for 5 weeks and I changed the spark plugs myself recently with IV22 gapped to .028. and got 1 random cylinder 3 misfire code (on startup) but no apparent misfire when idling or driving (about 100 miles after the spark plug change). I reset the code and it hasn't come on since. Like I said previously, I'll post two more logs this weekend just to make sure you guys think that everything is running smoothly. Thanks!!!!!
 
You need to be very careful mixing oils and constantly changing them like that; not all additive packages play nice together. It also can't hurt to tighten up the spark plug gap, IIRC .028 is kinda wide.
 
.026 - .028 is the tuner recommended gap if you're using step colder plugs, so if you get a misfire that won't go away, tighten the gap and stretch the springs (maybe even get new coil boots)

And as Enki said, changing oil brand and weight can get iffy. Just find a good oil, put it in, and keep using it. I recommend Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.
 
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