StreetSpeed’s DD 500+ MS6 Build

Which should I get for Christmas?

  • Big Fmic Core (tr9/10 or equivalent size)

    Votes: 1 20.0%
  • EWG conversation for my CST4 setup

    Votes: 2 40.0%
  • Rear Diff Mount

    Votes: 2 40.0%

  • Total voters
    5
  • Poll closed .
Maybe it's the lack of resolution in the pics, but the cams look ok and not demolished.

They look like all the other cams I've seen on our engines with normal wear.
 
Maybe it's the lack of resolution in the pics, but the cams look ok and not demolished.

They look like all the other cams I've seen on our engines with normal wear.
I honestly took pics of only one cam and with my phone but I didn’t see anything too bad either tbo. But I do know that these guys know their stuff and build hundreds of motors a year if not a thousand and so I am just going by what they say.

They have wear markings on the cams where the bearings ride them but didn’t feel rough or anything really. Just want to air on the safe side and not blow them off about it that’s all.
 
Crank came out beautifully yesterday along with my other parts that I had hot tanked. Does anyone know if it is ok to remove the cam sensor seal on my VC?
F1D54277-0904-426C-A776-1EDC8B658D9C.jpeg
D31D7799-9B62-4131-8830-E0E9394A9EBD.jpeg
I don’t want to mess something up I can’t fix but was told I needed to remove it before giving it up for powder coat. The black chrome I wanted was going to be $100 more because it was a 3 stage process to coat instead of 1.
D24EA6E4-6AD1-4EF0-9F2F-0709149D5DFF.jpeg
This is the color I am going with for my VC and intake mani. Kind of a gunmetal type color. I think it will look nice and match my car well. Should give me options for accent color as well.
 
Thanks Sho you the man. I will most likely hit you up once I get my car back together about a few things. Good lookin out bro!
 
Thanks Sho you the man. I will most likely hit you up once I get my car back together about a few things. Good lookin out bro!
I used a pair of needle nose pliers and grabbed it from the top while pushing it down into the cover. This worked pretty slick and did not damage anything. No idea how I will get it back in though, should be interesting.
 
Well I got my injectors back today and they look pretty great! Flow charts showed great even flow and they weren’t actually too bad to begin with! Also go my plugs today so thanks for the help knowing where to get them cheap @Sho! 828FA976-1A01-4509-91DD-C3818E99A2E4.jpeg

Also, just decided to paint my own valve cover and intake mani because the powder coat guy didn’t txt me back for over a week this last couple times and I felt like they would have the parts forever. It saved me over $100 too which I needed to save anyway.
0A246ACF-944E-4E39-9931-B4AECB793738.jpeg
It was dark out sorry. I’ll have better pics once the mani is done too! Baked it in the oven on 200 for an hour so should be good now. Almost ready to have the motor reassembled and will have it done soon, just had to get some better used cams since mine were a no go.
Shout out to @Bigelow for all the go fast parts mostly being used on my motor lol
 
So I guess it’s time for another engine update. My builder will be finishing it up tomorrow as far as I know. It is officially a long block again as the newly ported head is on and is awaiting being timed and buttoned up!
E754EFF7-51A8-4F09-BEB0-CA82C8A8078A.jpeg 27C0A2E9-4B14-4D62-B75A-D4B1DE580090.jpeg
I think that they did a phenomenal job cleaning up my mess of a motor, and although he won’t see this post, shout out to Terry Cummings Racing Engines! Anyone in Indiana wanting quality work should consider this amazing family business. 5D7B3DC6-4EE8-42C6-A0A6-91CA4A83C43F.jpeg 55B99657-999C-4DE9-932B-CC758B950866.jpeg The long awaited answer for my extreme power loss was also discovered for anyone who was curious still about what caused my issues. It most definitely was a broken ring and all of my oil rings that were clogged completely.
FAD44390-F686-41B0-8E96-D84E139ECCDA.jpeg AE628139-07C5-4EEA-812C-FBDE47239F1E.jpeg The marks on my head were explained by this piston top haha4CC3B4A6-E6DB-4CC1-864A-F037C55BC5FD.jpeg Will be hoping to run methanol as soon as financially possible with this build to keep valves and pistons clean.
 
So just a small update for anyone who cares, I got my Fidanza flywheel today and have to admit it looks absolutely amazing!! I hate it is even going in my car to be honest but im definitely going to put her to work lol
image.jpg image.jpg Needless to say I couldn’t be much more impressed with how good it looks. Good job Fidanza. They even have numbers engraved in the flywheel which is good in case of a factory issue of any sort.

Now it’s time to build this thing and break it in so I can see what I have been waiting for and all my hard work has been for!
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 7
What’s up everyone! So, tomorrow I am attempting to put my motor back in and have my car mostly back together if not completely! I had an issue getting the proper throwout bearing but as long as the proper one comes in this time it is go time!
D5956B7C-CECB-4968-885C-9313E94E9A86.jpeg
Basically have do a full bleed on my brakes as well since I had removed them the brake fluid has probably all drained out. Haven’t bled brakes too much so we will see how that goes.

Planning to buy some new grade 8 driveshaft bolts and nuts since mine have been somewhat misplaced for the moment. lol I did manage to get the lines in place for my catch can as well which look nice I think. Shoutout to Damond Motorsports for the awesome check valve that I got within 2 days!
6CE1FEF1-15AB-4B78-84AA-E32E92BB93F8.jpeg
5C26730A-9B8D-45D3-ADB0-BFDB687B8100.jpeg
I know not much of an update but will give another one in the next couple days about how it all goes. Fingers crossed ladies and gents!
 
dont forget to purchase this, goes between the bolt and nut. needs 4 for the driveshaft. not sure what size but local autoparts store should have it, that lock washer is needed since stock have those.
upload_2019-7-13_12-24-57.jpeg
 
dont forget to purchase this, goes between the bolt and nut. needs 4 for the driveshaft. not sure what size but local autoparts store should have it, that lock washer is needed since stock have those.
View attachment 11631
Good lookin out man! I actually have the washers but lost 3 bolts and 1 nut somehow lol Also, lost a few other bolts that I had to buy today. All in all it was a great day of progress though and got the motor bolted in and a few things hooked up. Driveshaft will probably be close to last honestly. Pulled a 13 hour work day in my gravel driveway with +90* temps, so I am worn out to say the least..
F6B3751B-B244-47E8-A7E0-DA27CD082979.jpeg
 
Keep up the work, looking good.
Thanks I need the encouragement haha That pic was taken about 45mins ago. I still get this feeling that seems odd. Probably just cuz I haven’t ever done anything nearly this deep into a car but gives me a feeling like I am going to crank it and have something wrong or something. I don’t know why though but been trying to take my time and make it right.
 
I get nervous like that with big jobs too, it's better to be cautious than sloppy and rushed.

Just turn everything over by hand a few times before starting it, that is the driveshaft, engine...

Before firing the engine on, crank it with your feet on the gas and clutch pedal. It'll get the oil and fuel pressure going before throwing combustion into the cylinder chamber.

Great progress otherwise.
 
I get nervous like that with big jobs too, it's better to be cautious than sloppy and rushed.

Just turn everything over by hand a few times before starting it, that is the driveshaft, engine...

Before firing the engine on, crank it with your feet on the gas and clutch pedal. It'll get the oil and fuel pressure going before throwing combustion into the cylinder chamber.

Great progress otherwise.
Glad to know im not alone lol Always seem to second guess the work I have done even though I am thorough while doing it. How do you prime the fuel and oil both? Just with the injectors unplugged and then crank?
 
Glad to know im not alone lol Always seem to second guess the work I have done even though I am thorough while doing it. How do you prime the fuel and oil both? Just with the injectors unplugged and then crank?

No keep your harness plugged in, otherwise you could risk a short.

With one foot fully depressing the clutch, the other foot fully depressing the gas. Your engine will turn over but not fire up, it cuts the ignition from firing. So it'll get the oil pumped, and allow the HPFP to build pressure.

Your injectors will still open up, so dont flood your engine. You'll only need to do it for a few seconds.

Edit: mistake on my part. Injectors do not fire.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top