did you fill up the T-case before installing? man thats a PITA to fill up if installed in car already.
and when priming theres 2 methods I used.
Method one: same as above, everything plugged in and gas pedal and clutch on floor while cranking for 10 seconds 5 times
Method two: (my preferred way) remove spark plug, remove coil, ofcourse remove the coil pack harness, the pins is deep inside so shorting isnt really going to happen unless its a wire tuck who knows. then gas and clutch on floor 10 seconds cranking 5 times, reason why is without the spark plug in there the starter can spin the motor easier hence its easier to build pressure, also Nishan advice as to crank the engine for a minute to build the pressure in rail,. but that kinda making the starter work too hard. hence i used 10 seconds cranking 5 times,
its better to have someone check leak especially around hpfp and oil feed line in turbo and IN THE BLOCK SIDE.
then change your oil after 5 minutes of running, also MAKE SURE YOUR VVT solenoid is plugged in correctly with right plug the stick air intake black box have same connector like as the vvt, its easy to mistake it. also make sure all connection in starter is solid and you applied electrical grease in the starter signal wire,
if youre not hooking up oil catch can and just wanna start the engine, make sure you plug the hose coming from intake manifold since it will suck air and some dirt if its pointing downward, (happened to me, not good i thought my check valve will help lol)
if you have spin on oil conversion on it, you can use STP 3600, Fram 3600, Mobil 1 209a those are oil filter for mazda truck or ford ranger v6, it will fit the filter housing, thats what i run, its essential in break in period since this filter is longer and will trap more debris than the small one. get the mobil 1 or the wix
if its a brand new turbo its also good to pre oil the feed, so it doesnt run dry for seconds when starting the car,
and when priming theres 2 methods I used.
Method one: same as above, everything plugged in and gas pedal and clutch on floor while cranking for 10 seconds 5 times
Method two: (my preferred way) remove spark plug, remove coil, ofcourse remove the coil pack harness, the pins is deep inside so shorting isnt really going to happen unless its a wire tuck who knows. then gas and clutch on floor 10 seconds cranking 5 times, reason why is without the spark plug in there the starter can spin the motor easier hence its easier to build pressure, also Nishan advice as to crank the engine for a minute to build the pressure in rail,. but that kinda making the starter work too hard. hence i used 10 seconds cranking 5 times,
its better to have someone check leak especially around hpfp and oil feed line in turbo and IN THE BLOCK SIDE.
then change your oil after 5 minutes of running, also MAKE SURE YOUR VVT solenoid is plugged in correctly with right plug the stick air intake black box have same connector like as the vvt, its easy to mistake it. also make sure all connection in starter is solid and you applied electrical grease in the starter signal wire,
if youre not hooking up oil catch can and just wanna start the engine, make sure you plug the hose coming from intake manifold since it will suck air and some dirt if its pointing downward, (happened to me, not good i thought my check valve will help lol)
if you have spin on oil conversion on it, you can use STP 3600, Fram 3600, Mobil 1 209a those are oil filter for mazda truck or ford ranger v6, it will fit the filter housing, thats what i run, its essential in break in period since this filter is longer and will trap more debris than the small one. get the mobil 1 or the wix
if its a brand new turbo its also good to pre oil the feed, so it doesnt run dry for seconds when starting the car,
