StreetSpeed’s DD 500+ MS6 Build

[L337TurboZ]

Whatever you do, don't port the floor of the ports. Only do the roof. Porting the floor will change the angle of airflow and can hurt performance more. Raising the roof is where you get increased volume.

It's ok to clean up the casting marks and stuff on the floor just don't change it too much.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

Whatever you do, don't port the floor of the ports. Only do the roof. Porting the floor will change the angle of airflow and can hurt performance more. Raising the roof is where you get increased volume.

It's ok to clean up the casting marks and stuff on the floor just don't change it too much.

And just to clarify... The "floor" of the head is the valve side correct?

 

[L337TurboZ]

And just to clarify... The "floor" of the head is the valve side correct?

Yes. The bottom section of the port. Here is a link to an article about porting Miata heads. The same principal applies.

https://mighty5s.com/thread/3264/bp4w-porting-flow-bench-analysis

 

[StreetSpeed6]

Test fitting pi adapter for fun. Also realizing I now need 2 tig for my intake manifold lol

Checking injector fitment as well

Planning to gasket match my head and exhaust manifold tonight too! Sending head to the engine shop Monday to have them tear it down and then I will be able to do the bowl work. After porting then time to get my head set up and get this show on the road!

 

[StreetSpeed6]

Started porting out my head tonight and am pleased so far with the results for just hitting it with my double cut carbide bit. Will post again when this is all finished up nice and sexy! Roof is going up and I'm simply smoothing the floor.

Trying to remember that with this I feel like that somewhat less is more!

 

[L337TurboZ]

That port looks good!

Did you use a sharpie to mark the port? Try using this stuff. It's a bright blue color and has a brush in the can. You can use it to paint inside the port as well. Makes it easier to see where you've made contact and to prevent low areas. Just paint it on, allow to dry.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

That port looks good!

Did you use a sharpie to mark the port? Try using this stuff. It's a bright blue color and has a brush in the can. You can use it to paint inside the port as well. Makes it easier to see where you've made contact and to prevent low areas. Just paint it on, allow to dry.

I had wondered about maybe using something like that but decided that feeling it would be sufficient. Thanks!! This is honestly just the rough port and each one after got a bit better I felt like. I ended up porting it to where you can see both sides of the valve guide from that view. Not a huge difference but I feel that it will make it flow much better through there into the chamber.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

Made some more progress on the head porting today and man.... This thing is taking a while but I don't have a tank that will keep up with my dremel all the way.


Ends up running at probably like 40-50psi instead of like 80-90. Nonetheless here is my latest pictures of the intake side. It should work well to split the pi injectors spraying in the middle of the runners!

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Still watching. Keep it up. You make me want to do the same! So far I only have peer pressure problems with alcohol but this could be a new chapter, lol.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

Finally got some time to smash out the intake ports on my head! It wasn't even 100 degrees and 90% humidity either for a change lol

I am pleased with how they turned out and I will be finishing all of the head work tomorrow hopefully by doing the bowls. Aiming to basically smooth the bowls and take out the minor stuff. Planning to not do very much with the bowls as I hear less is more basically and I am nervous about the bowls anyway.

I will post before and afters of that and what I changed as well. Theory of my intake runners is to help evenly split my pi fuel as it sprays into the runners. I also slightly opened up the runners and raised the roof along with a gasket match job.

I received my new intake filter as well and installed my new oil pickup tube and new o-ring. I assumed it would come with one seeing as it was like $40 but no it didn't so..yeah..

THIS THING IS GOING TO GET FINISHED SOON BOYS AND GIRLS SO STAY TUNED!!!!!!!l

 

[StreetSpeed6]

The head is back and assembled!!!!! Had to end up doing a valve job and replacing two bad valves but looks like otherwise this head is great and I can't wait to install everything.

Only thing I noticed is that the cam caps have a gap between them and the head surface. Is this normal?????



Also, I'm assuming they're not in time since he didn't have a timing plate set do I need to just turn them with a wrench to the correct orientation once on the short block?

 

[Enki]

Those caps are not tightened.

 

[L337TurboZ]

Cam caps need to be tightened in the proper sequence and torque spec. Those aren't seated at all. Whenever you do tighten them down you need to have the head supported underneath so valves don't hit anything

 

[Easter Bunny]

Did they check the valve lash?

 

[Enki]

Did they check the valve lash?

 

[L337TurboZ]

Those are just truck valves since the cylinder head is taller on trucks. You shim the caps to take up the difference lol.

 

[Enki]

If the valves are too long, or the spring perches (if any) aren't installed properly or the springs are not the right type this very well could cause the cams to *torque to spec* without actually being installed properly.

This is something that should have been caught; there's zero fucking excuse for you getting this head in this condition.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

I'm going to have to ask about it. I mean I paid them $315 to set up the head and do the work to make it right. He said he set the lash and all that or whatever but could he do that without the cams being installed all the way?

 

[StreetSpeed6]

I spoke with him and he says he set the lash for each valve and all is good but the cams are basically just tightened to keep the caps from coming out. He says they are specific to each valve and he lightly engraved the valve number into each one so if they came out for anything then they will have numbers to get them back where they came from.

It was just poor communication as he wasn't there when I picked it up so that's why. He is reputable and he says everything else is good so I am going to install the head without the cams in and then install the cams with the timing plate in and the engine set at TDC and get this baby timed and back together soon!!

 

[L337TurboZ]

If I had set the lash and done all of that it wouldn't have been hard to just sharpie on the cap it's location and order.

Or bolt the cams down to spec if they don't require removal for access of the head bolts. Then used some short pieces of wood on the head deck to prevent the valves from contacting anything and wrap it with tape.