benions2017
Greenie N00B Member
Hey guys I’ve saw some guys upgrade their slave cylinders with the one from a Supra. Just wondering what the benefit of doing this is or if anyone on here has done it.
Supra Slave cylinder
- Thread starter benions2017
- Start date
benions2017
Greenie N00B Member
Thanks I know the stock line is an issue there at the connection
benions2017
Greenie N00B Member
The connection there is easy to break. Other than that I was trying to figure out the point of switching it out.
I have the supra slave cylinder and it is working well. You have to modify it to work but I have not had any issues. I replaced my entire OEM soft line with a stainless 3an line. 07 speed 3
INFO HERE
https://www.mazdaspeeds.org/index.p...-build-maximum-carnage.7025/page-7#post-66642
AND
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?t...ed-6-slave-cylinder-stainless-3an-lines.9262/
AND
Modified Supra Slave
Fitting Needed for Supra Slave "I am pretty sure"
INFO HERE
https://www.mazdaspeeds.org/index.p...-build-maximum-carnage.7025/page-7#post-66642
AND
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?t...ed-6-slave-cylinder-stainless-3an-lines.9262/
AND
Modified Supra Slave
Fitting Needed for Supra Slave "I am pretty sure"
benions2017
Greenie N00B Member
Thanks for all the info.
There's always Hope. Let us know how it goes.
Dan1234467
Greenie N00B Member
What else would you need for the surpa slave for the mazdaspeed 3
read the threads he linked to that tell you what you need and how to do it.
Dan1234467
Greenie N00B Member
For the modified supra slave it's just supra slave with push rod and boot from speed 6
A bit of a revival - I looked around and didn't see much on this.
Not sure how many cases there have been of the oem ms3 plastic pushrod breaking with a heavier duty pressure plate, if it was a frequent problem, then anyone with an aftermarket clutch would have this issue - is it safe to assume it's fairly infrequent?
Is there a way to use a metal pushrod in the stock MS3 gen1/2 slave, or is that moot as the rest of the slave cyl is plastic? If not moot and the stock slave body/bore don't blow up, maybe this could be a solution.
Otherwise it seems we have to buy the supra slave cyl and the ms6 slave cyl, transfer over the push rod/boot from the ms6 to the supra SC (and notch the mounting holes), and fab a conversion line from the stock line to the supra SC input. Please correct me if I got the parts list/sequence wrong.
Not sure how many cases there have been of the oem ms3 plastic pushrod breaking with a heavier duty pressure plate, if it was a frequent problem, then anyone with an aftermarket clutch would have this issue - is it safe to assume it's fairly infrequent?
Is there a way to use a metal pushrod in the stock MS3 gen1/2 slave, or is that moot as the rest of the slave cyl is plastic? If not moot and the stock slave body/bore don't blow up, maybe this could be a solution.
Otherwise it seems we have to buy the supra slave cyl and the ms6 slave cyl, transfer over the push rod/boot from the ms6 to the supra SC (and notch the mounting holes), and fab a conversion line from the stock line to the supra SC input. Please correct me if I got the parts list/sequence wrong.
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You can not swap anything into the ms3 slave as it is all plastic and the issue is not with it breaking the rod more so leaking especially after swapping it in and out as it over extends. I did the supra setup because I was swapping the motor and have time and space to do my own stuff it. I could have kept the OEM setup but it had 150k miles on it so I decided to replace it.
Yes, you need to put an end on the OEM line "double flare" to a 3an fitting, 3an line which goes to the supra slave , supra slave is notched and has speed 6 push rod.
Yes, you need to put an end on the OEM line "double flare" to a 3an fitting, 3an line which goes to the supra slave , supra slave is notched and has speed 6 push rod.
Saucy3
Greenie N00B Member
I just put in an Xclutch drove fine for about 2 thousand miles and now my master cylinder keeps blowing out at the hardline. Every time I put in a new master lt fails within 500 miles and is not reusable. I ordered a kit with a braided stainless steel line to replace the hard pipes, and a slave with a larger bore that will move the fork with less force. I know this is a slave thread but I’m pretty sure the OEM slave cylinder, hardline pipe, and master cylinders just flat out suck. I hope this fixes my problem because other than something coming loose and getting stuck in the clutch, idk what could cause it to explode at the hard pipe and re seal fine every time a new one is in. So if this doesn’t fix this issue, I’m either selling this car that refuses to run for more than a week at a time or I’m taking to Mazda and have them figure it out and probably go back to a oem clutch. ???
Mine has been solid without issues for 2 years of DD now. I am having some issues with my ram clutch pedal adjuster sticking a little but they sent me a rebuild kit for free so that will get done eventually.
FWIW I bought a brand new OE slave cylinder from Edge and it failed within two weeks of me getting the car running and driving. One morning at a light it gave out. I went and purchased an aftermarket one. It has lasted me over a year so far knock on wood.
If it fails I will probably go the Supra Slave cylinder route. I had also considered going to a remote reservoir for the clutch. You can get them from Wildwood for cheap. I figure I'd change the master cylinder reservoir to an automatic cars reservoir so I won't have to worry about plugging a hole or capping one off.
If it fails I will probably go the Supra Slave cylinder route. I had also considered going to a remote reservoir for the clutch. You can get them from Wildwood for cheap. I figure I'd change the master cylinder reservoir to an automatic cars reservoir so I won't have to worry about plugging a hole or capping one off.