The Dood's build.

Devinthedood

Devinthedood

Silver Member
Greetings MSO bros and hoes.
Proud owner and member of community since 2012 with a 2012 in Black Mica. "Got-Mota?" on the old forum (good riddance). Shoutout to Nator OR.

Current humble mods:
HTP 3.5inch intake
CS racepipe
autotechs
CS FMIC (old gen) TR6ish core
HKS SSQV4
Cobb Ebcs
AP TIGs
Cobb AP
CPE RMM
Evo 8 Enki wheels (17x8 +38 - flush to fender)
Tuned by Nishan (He's BACK!)

I went off on black Friday sales and dug myself in deep.

In hand about to install:
CS intake mani + exhaust mani
CST5 ball bearing turbo
Bosch Id1050x injectors
Split Second controller
JBR shifter replacement (now installed)
CS lower tie bar (now installed)
CS tmm insert
CS 3.5in DP
Cobb 3in catback (now installed)
Enki RPF1 gold 17x9

Still shopping but most likely settled on:
CS aux fuel kit + tank

The plan is to bolt up as is and run 400/380ish while I build a motor on the side with 700hp headroom (it will be the first I've done).
The car currently has only 65k miles and the stock bottom end is really healthy so should easily survive 6 mo. to a year of 400/380. I will then swap in the built motor and start building the stock motor so I have a pair to swap as needed and can really BEAT THE SHIT without reservation. The goal once built with the new turbo setup is obviously 500+ for a while until I find myself moving to a new turbo. I will be doing some head work and valve springs in both cases to allow for at least 8k rpm redline.

I have a good friend who owns a body+paint shop and we are discussing doing flares like a few others have done depending on how bad the poke is with the new wheel setup.

-Wheels are now in hand @ 17x9 +35 so will be poking out about a half inch compared to my current fender flush 17x8 +38 (since offset is so close, the difference in width will be split between either side of the hub resulting in a little over a half inch poke compared to now).
You should never plan to use spacers when buying new wheels, CHOOSE THE CORRECT OFFSET!!!

Helpful suggestions, insight and trash talk are all much appreciated especially when the virgin engine build process begins. Thanks for taking a look!
 
Last edited:
Finally got off my ass and did a few things on the car - a few pics to come.
Got the JBR shifter replacement installed and also threw on the CS lower tie bar. I decided on the JBR over the Corksport shifter solution for one reason: OEM like shifter placement. Corksport's solution omits the offset that the OEM and JBR have meaning when all is said and done the shifter is actually tilted further away from the driver towards the passenger seat. I preferred to maintain the original orientation.

I am pleasantly surprised with the Corksport lower tie bar and didn't think I'd feel a difference as clearly as I do. It really tightened up the front end in a noticeable way. It's been claimed it's more effective than strut tower bar on this platform and that wouldn't surprise me at all with the effect I've seen. Really noticeable when aggressively turning or say going over or around speed bumps or the like.
One of the best bang for the buck mods I've come across so far in 12 years on this platform (and one of the easiest installs too!)

Next up this weekend will probably be throwing on the Cobb catback. Manifolds and turbo will go on as a set along with a new base tune hopefully weekend after next.
 
Decision made on downpipe and the Corksport catted 3.5 to 3.0 downpipe is on the way (gotta pass smog). This also means I've held off on throwing on the catback for now as it makes the most sense to do exhaust manifold/turbo/downpipe and catback all at once.
 
Got the Cobb catback installed and it sounds fucking awesome. Didn't get any pics but was a super ez install on my buddy's frame rail. Didn't expect to like it as much as I do. Oh, I also tripped over these gold things while I was out and about...
17x9 + 35 offset so exact inner clearance as stock wheels basically. Gonna be a bit of poke but obviously not as bad as the 9.5's would have been. Planning on 275/40/17 tires.
20240819_231959.jpg
I guess I might do gold Cerakote on the mani's and turbo to match...
 
Last edited:
Here's the fitment compared to stock:
upload_2024-8-21_21-36-4.png

And here's the actual setup I'm switching from now:
upload_2024-8-21_21-41-56.png

Thoughts? Trash talk? Musings on 275's on 9inch wheels? Tire recommendations?
 

Attachments

  • upload_2024-8-21_21-36-39.png
    upload_2024-8-21_21-36-39.png
    276.2 KB · Views: 1
Last edited:
I just went to 17x9 40 offset Konigs with 255/40 tires and have zero rub. Did a whole bunch of HW and used the same fitment calculator. No spacers and good clearance on the struts. I did have to roll the rear fenders flat.

So I'm assuming your goal is just straight line traction? I can't imagine a 275 on a 9 inch wheel is going to feel great going into a hard corner.
 
Definitely something I'm considering not to mention tire selection at 275/40/17 is sparse to say the least... I may have to go 255 based on that alone.
 
Mtnbker3531 said:
I just went to 17x9 40 offset Konigs with 255/40 tires and have zero rub. Did a whole bunch of HW and used the same fitment calculator. No spacers and good clearance on the struts. I did have to roll the rear fenders flat.

So I'm assuming your goal is just straight line traction? I can't imagine a 275 on a 9 inch wheel is going to feel great going into a hard corner.
Click to expand...

Taking another look, it wouldn't be much further from square than the stock setup is (as seen below) you are thinking sidewall roll here could be a big factor, yes?
I actually thought 235's on my 8s ended up being conservative and could have gone 245s without issue (at least with the tires I was running)

I'm looking at the Nitto nt555 g2's which specifically says they have bigger shoulder blocks on 275 and above so now I'm even more unsure if it will be super chonky or what.... might just go for it, live dangerous and suffer the consequences

upload_2024-8-25_6-7-26.png
 
Mtnbker3531 said:
This is a pretty good article that discusses tire width/rim width.

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/wheel-width-is-wider-always-better/

A 275 on a 9 inch wheel falls out of the recommended size for a 9 inch wheel. By squeezing a wider than ideal tire on that rim you are effectively reducing the actual contact patch which hurts performance.
Click to expand...

I don't think it will be quite the squeeze you think it will be. There's also alot of variance between tire brands.
Really solid testing, times are close enough though that I feel like it's within margin of error for a street car, and that's actually reassuring to me that there won't be a massive negative impact if there's more of an issue than I suspect there will be.

Good news is I found some brand specific information:
nitto555rsizechart-jpg.1312139

Nitto themselves states the range for 275 as 9.0-(9.5)-11 (with 9.5 being optimal square obviously)

I'm willing to be the guinea pig on this one. You can be sure I will welcome your ridicule if they suck, the abuse will be cathartic.
 
Last edited:
Oh I'm no expert, all I was doing was pointing out there may be some undesirable effects.

I know just enough about this stuff to be aware but not nearly enough to speak on it in an intelligent manner! I was just trying to illustrate that you should do some reading/research is all.

Like you said for a street car not a big deal and live and learn which I can relate to. If you look at how the arc of my car went I did everything backwards lol.

Oh I'm using a lot of oil must be the turbo that's making all this smoke on boost and drinking a qt every 500 miles. I'll just go ahead and get an upgraded one and finally tune the car like I've always wanted to. Oh well that didn't fix it I guess I need a motor.....o_O
 
Mtnbker3531 said:
Oh I'm no expert, all I was doing was pointing out there may be some undesirable effects.

I know just enough about this stuff to be aware but not nearly enough to speak on it in an intelligent manner! I was just trying to illustrate that you should do some reading/research is all.

Like you said for a street car not a big deal and live and learn which I can relate to. If you look at how the arc of my car went I did everything backwards lol.

Oh I'm using a lot of oil must be the turbo that's making all this smoke on boost and drinking a qt every 500 miles. I'll just go ahead and get an upgraded one and finally tune the car like I've always wanted to. Oh well that didn't fix it I guess I need a motor.....o_O
Click to expand...

You're pointing to sound information, expert or not. There are a few potential undesirable effects from "over-stuffing" tires and the contact patch not resting flat is a big one and another big one is sidewall roll. This can feel similar to suspension body roll in the turns but comes from give in the sidewall especially with tires/wheel setups that are far out of square and further amplified by tires with softer sidewalls. Either effect would represent serious performance regression so very undesirable indeed, and good of you to highlight your concern.
 
Yeah it's really not fun when you do something to the car that you think is going to make it better and it ends up worse! :(​
 
OIP.OHq87A8OdAJWBL02A8YNrgAAAA

New turbski, 3.5 DP and CS ex mani finally on and cookin - pics to come I promise.
All parts from my list are installed besides intake mani which will go on this next weekend.
Base map from the fabled yet returned Nishan in place and safely driving to and from work to burn off some machine oils and piss off the neighbors.

The new wheel and tire setup has completely changed the car (I love them). Still feeling great in the turns and the tires don't look silly stuffed to me but we've got some serious poke for sure (pics coming I promise). Definitely need some big ass mudflaps for now while we start looking at flare options/mockup. I'm SUPER picky when it comes to doing anything to the lines of the car so we will move slow and do it really nice.
 
I'm doing a GEN2 AWD build that nobody knows about yet and it will be getting a 17x9+40 with 255/40 tires. I've ran that setup on my GEN1 and its a pretty solid setup.

From my research I've learned that a straight/vertical wall or slightly stretched is the desired setup because of the physics you are applying to the sidewall during hard cornering.
With a bulging setup (over-wide tires for wheel) the tire is already "rolling/falling over" so when you come into a hard corner with a lot of G-force, you are essentially trying to pull the tire off the rim by rolling it over the edge of the rim. And since its base setup is already "rolling over" then its easy for the added forces to add to that.
With a slight stretch the tire wall has to be pushed to vertical (which is directly counteracting the forces on the tire) and then it can start rolling over off the rim.
In simple terms the bulging tire is ready to roll over and the slight stretch tire pushes back before it rolls over.
This is how to can artificially affect the tires stiffness
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top