The wife’s MS6 has arrived.

[Jimme T]

Yeah. The bowl area is pretty bad on these. I wanted to start on the intake side just to see how far back I was going to have to cut in order to get a good transition from the single runner on the jmf manifold to the split on the head.

 

[Jimme T]

Didn’t get a whole lot more done but I got the shape figured out for the bowl area in the small intake runner. Also wanted to figure out the cc of the stock combustion chamber before I started smoothing it out. I couldn’t find anything online for the stock chamber size(but I suck attrying to find stuff online). It came out to 44cc just I case anyone else is interested in that info.

 

[Jimme T]

Changed my mind on how I done the porting. Ended up cutting it back a little farther before the split starts. I haven’t done the floor yet but this is pretty much going to be shape. Also wanted to check the weight difference of the springs and retainers. Supertech 70lb dual springs VS stock. Actual valve train weight and spring pressure. The supertech came in at exactly 70lbs. The stock was 55lbs. The difference in weight was surprising to me being double spring VS a single spring. Supertech springs only weighed 4.72g more than the stock spring.

 

[Jimme T]

Haven’t had a whole lot of time but got my valve cover sanded down and powder coated. I think it looks great with the raw look of the parts from @Derek@LateNightRacing

 

[Jimme T]

 

[Jimme T]

I haven’t made a lot of progress lately. Still working on the head. Once the head is done I can start final assembly. Here are some pics along the porting progress. The valve seats are ridiculous. The seat width on the intakes are as wide as the valve face. It’s like the factory cut a 45 on the seat called it a day.

 

[Jimme T]

Haven’t updated this for a little while but finally started making progress again. Old motor is out and the new motor is in. Driveshaft and exhaust is on. Gotta finish plugging in the wiring, get the front mount hooked up and run the fuel lines for the pi. Hoping to get that done this weekend. New wheels and tires came in yesterday now I’m just waiting for the H&R lowering springs to ship. Edge said they should ship this week so I’m keeping my fingers crossed. If all goes well , I should have it running this weekend

 

[L337TurboZ]

Looks good dude!

 

[Jimme T]

It’s alive!!! I finally got it up and running today. Took it for a short drive. Everything seems good so far BUT I have some electrical gremlins going on. The only window that works is the driver window. When I turn on the turn signal the rears work fine but the front left flashes no matter which way I turn it on and both dash indicators flash as if the 4 ways are on. And the AP shuts off and says the engine has been shut off but the car is still running. If I unplug it and plug it back in it starts working again. I’m still happy it’s running , now just have to work out the bugs and get some miles on it.

 

[rrodriguez9921]

on the blinkers acting up - clean your ground behind the driver head light- u will see a small metal tab bolted down with a 10mm bolt - un bolt it, remove it from the car and clean the little metal connector. should be good right after that.

 

[rrodriguez9921]

here is a pic of it

 

[Jimme T]

Thank you. Any chance you could get a pic of that? I don’t recall seeing a ground in that area. Most of the grounds were broken as well as a lot of the connectors. I’ve been trying to get the electrical crap straightened up as I go

 

[Sho]

It’s alive!!! I finally got it up and running today. Took it for a short drive. Everything seems good so far BUT I have some electrical gremlins going on. The only window that works is the driver window. When I turn on the turn signal the rears work fine but the front left flashes no matter which way I turn it on and both dash indicators flash as if the 4 ways are on. And the AP shuts off and says the engine has been shut off but the car is still running. If I unplug it and plug it back in it starts working again. I’m still happy it’s running , now just have to work out the bugs and get some miles on it.

Any time the battery is disconnected from an ms6, you must go to each door, roll down the window with its dedicated window switch. Then roll it up and hold until you hear it click. Only then will the driver door switch work for each window. Do this for the driver window as well for the auto up/down to work.

For the flashers. Infront of the fuse box In the engine bay, there is a 4 wire ground bolted to the frame rail. That's for the bcm. Clean it up and resecure it. That will fix that issue.

As far as the AP. Sounds like a loose pin in the obd2 port

 

[Sho]

Thank you. Any chance you could get a pic of that? I don’t recall seeing a ground in that area. Most of the grounds were broken as well as a lot of the connectors. I’ve been trying to get the electrical crap straightened up as I go

 

[Jimme T]

We must have posted at the same time lol. I bought the car with a blown motor and bad battery. I’ve never really known what works and what don’t. Thank You again for the tip

 

[rrodriguez9921]

yeah that ground is notorious for getting corrosion and the blinkers and somwetimes the headlights will act stupid. Just make sure you clean all the points of contact. not just where it bolts to the car but the little metal spades too.

 

[Jimme T]

On another note. I’m really happy with the exhaust so far. It has a nice deep tone and isn’t loud so far. Everything fit perfect but I don’t care for the way it looks at the exit of the car. Probably because someone hacked it up at the bumper exit.

 

[Jimme T]

Tried that with the windows today but they won’t even roll down from their dedicated switch. No clicking or anything. I’ll take the door apart when I get a chance and see if maybe the connections got bad sitting for that long

 

[Jimme T]

Headlights and turn signals are fixed. Broken ground wire. Windows are fixed.. now I’ve got an error code p0069. Any thoughts?

 

[rrodriguez9921]

Awesome where did u find the broken ground at?