Treadstone 6 vs 8

DubC

DubC

Greenie N00B Member
So hopefully my first post on here isn't going to get me punched in the face.

I've tried to research on here and the almighty google for those running a treadstone 6 and a treadstone 8. Sorta hard to find the exact type of info I'm looking for but I've watched plenty of treadstone 8 installs to know that it appears to be the preferred version. I do get that in the case of FMIC, bigger is probably better (all other factors being equal) but can anyone speak to the treadstone 6 and if the extra work/money is worth it for 8 as I've read a crash bar is needed for the 8. Cost over the 6 is actually only a few dollars (at least on JBR site).

thanks
 
Really the only 2 things to consider are...

1) what is your power goal? No sense going HUGE if your current of future goals dont require it.

2) if you decide to go with a tr8, you will need to cut the stock crash bar or get an aftermarket one that can fit the core. Are you okay with that? Some people are not..
 
Just go with the TR8 and be happy. You can get the piping kit from CXRacing at RPMstore and then buy the core separate to even safe a few bucks. But be aware if you want this, you need to cut/modify your stock crash bar, which Imo, isn't a good idea.

If I were you, I'd just spring for the Treadstone kit with the crash bar and call it good. No need to cut it modify anything, it just bolts right up.

The TR8 can handle good power, especially for the majority that don't go and build a block and make crazy hp.
 
Fuck the treadstone kit.

The tbolts are shit design.
The couplers are shit silicone.
The piping is made of tin foil and crush super easily. Not to mention the fact that the hot pipe has really crappy fitment and you will need a long and angled coupler to make the hot pipe work... bear in mind even with that it will eventually crush and leak.

The crash bar is not bad, but be prepared to drill or grind a couple of spots to get good fitment on the radiator support.

The core is really the only good thing about that "kit."

I recently got fed up after fucking with it for 3 or 4 years, and went with the HTP under engine piping. Quality and fitment are night and day. If you are considering it, the HTP kit is worth every penny. The website lists the piping kit, you need to call them and talk to Matt about the core and crash bar. Some of their stuff is made to order but definitely worth the wait.
 
Mauro_Penguin said:
Fuck the treadstone kit.

The tbolts are shit design.
The couplers are shit silicone.
The piping is made of tin foil and crush super easily. Not to mention the fact that the hot pipe has really crappy fitment and you will need a long and angled coupler to make the hot pipe work... bear in mind even with that it will eventually crush and leak.

The crash bar is not bad, but be prepared to drill or grind a couple of spots to get good fitment on the radiator support.

The core is really the only good thing about that "kit."

I recently got fed up after fucking with it for 3 or 4 years, and went with the HTP under engine piping. Quality and fitment are night and day. If you are considering it, the HTP kit is worth every penny. The website lists the piping kit, you need to call them and talk to Matt about the core and crash bar. Some of their stuff is made to order but definitely worth the wait.
Click to expand...

I was initially set on the JBR kit, then JBR underpiping kit, then I wasn’t sure. There arena many videos/reviews of the underpiping kit but saw a few that made me think twice. Or at least do more research. I did look into the HTP kit and saw they were out of stock. So if they make to order that makes sense.

The thing I see with most kits is the pipes are either rubbing or super close to the tranny, or A/C lines, or the second O2 sensor. I’m nearly certain that if I do upgrade at all I’d rather do a FMIC vs TMIC. It’s just hard to find reviews on anything but an install. So thanks for the direct feedback.

JBR also makes a crash at for the TR8 which seems legit. I’m a little weary to replace a safety feature designed by mazda engineers with a flat bar but I see why it’s needed.

That’s why I was asking to see how much difference the bigger core really makes. I seriously doubt I’m going to push over 400hp.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If you are going to stay under 400hp, consider a good TMIC.

CPe and ETS both flow very well, and you have a gen2 so hood scoop FTW. Use it.

At least consider it if you are weary about replacing the crash bar.
 
This is the reason I bought a Full Race kit. I don't have to deal with any of those issues and it looks cool
 
_Mazdarati said:
This is the reason I bought a Full Race kit. I don't have to deal with any of those issues and it looks cool
Click to expand...

Isn’t that FR kit expensive af? Looked at Cobb, too. But $1100?? God damn.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
DubC said:
Isn’t that FR kit expensive af? Looked at Cobb, too. But $1100?? God damn.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I got it brand new with the powdercoated piping for $1100 shipped to my door. Never even opened. Like $400 off of retail or some shit, can't remember exactly how much they are new
 
You get what you pay for.

My HTP piping, tr10 core, and treadstone crash bar have me probably at around 1100.

That doesnt include the countless tbolt clamps, couplers, and the treadstone piping I replaced.
 
That is definitely the pro for an upgraded TMIC...cost. But still prone to heatsoak and for 1/2 the price I’m not sure if it’s worth doing at all. I’ve also never tried so I could just be talkin shit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Personally I wouldn't cut the crash bar on a car I A) want to daily or B) never plan to un-modify. If your goals are 300-350whp I personally don't see why a TR6 wouldn't meet your needs, especially if it's just a street car. I wouldn't want to get in an accident and have an insurance adjuster give me shit for having a cut safety device.

That being said, keep your eye out for a used Cobb FMIC kit. I got mine back in the day for $400 locally with piping and an 8in (maybe like 7.9") core that cleared the crash bar and had really nice powdercoated piping.
 
Cobb core is legit. It's more like tr6 size but supposedly flows like a tr8. I have one on my 2010 and the crash bar is untouched.
 
SharksInSpace said:
Cobb core is legit. It's more like tr6 size but supposedly flows like a tr8. I have one on my 2010 and the crash bar is untouched.
Click to expand...

So I wonder if I can get a Cobb core with some other piping? Problem is, as stated, I don’t wanna get some cheap ass pipe that’s ill fitting and then have to replace it later, spending more in the end than an initial higher dollar purchase.

Hard to find local sales of MS3 parts. People just don’t have em around me I guess.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I can go on and on about TMIC vs FMIC, but I'll try not to.

Full Race fmic can flow a shitload of air because it's vertical flow. You get a ton of short rows rather than a few really long rows. I pushed my CPE TMIC on stock turbo into the high 300s and then continued to push it into the mid 500s after my build/turbo. Everybody talks about heatsoak, but when I get back from a drive the intercooler is cold to the touch until it sits for a long time. I don't really see this as a real issue and I DD my car in stop/go traffic every day.

This all just goes back to what your power goals are. I personally would never want to fuck with my crash bar, but that's me. I also really don't want a big fucking thing in front of my radiator with 115*+ temps in the summer. You really just need to ask yourself what turbo/power goals you're going to be looking at in the near future. Too big can be detrimental if you're just going to stay stock turbo and have some huge ass fmic in front for no reason.

Remember though, it's pretty easy to sell intercooler setups anyways, so worst case scenario you just sell it and buy the fatty later.
 
VashEXE said:
I can go on and on about TMIC vs FMIC, but I'll try not to.

Full Race fmic can flow a shitload of air because it's vertical flow. You get a ton of short rows rather than a few really long rows. I pushed my CPE TMIC on stock turbo into the high 300s and then continued to push it into the mid 500s after my build/turbo. Everybody talks about heatsoak, but when I get back from a drive the intercooler is cold to the touch until it sits for a long time. I don't really see this as a real issue and I DD my car in stop/go traffic every day.

This all just goes back to what your power goals are. I personally would never want to fuck with my crash bar, but that's me. I also really don't want a big fucking thing in front of my radiator with 115*+ temps in the summer. You really just need to ask yourself what turbo/power goals you're going to be looking at in the near future. Too big can be detrimental if you're just going to stay stock turbo and have some huge ass fmic in front for no reason.

Remember though, it's pretty easy to sell intercooler setups anyways, so worst case scenario you just sell it and buy the fatty later.
Click to expand...

Great advice. After reading so many posts of FMIC or bust it’s easy to get into that mindset even with no experience. Thanks for keepin it real.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
VashEXE said:
I can go on and on about TMIC vs FMIC, but I'll try not to.

Full Race fmic can flow a shitload of air because it's vertical flow. You get a ton of short rows rather than a few really long rows. I pushed my CPE TMIC on stock turbo into the high 300s and then continued to push it into the mid 500s after my build/turbo. Everybody talks about heatsoak, but when I get back from a drive the intercooler is cold to the touch until it sits for a long time. I don't really see this as a real issue and I DD my car in stop/go traffic every day.

This all just goes back to what your power goals are. I personally would never want to fuck with my crash bar, but that's me. I also really don't want a big fucking thing in front of my radiator with 115*+ temps in the summer. You really just need to ask yourself what turbo/power goals you're going to be looking at in the near future. Too big can be detrimental if you're just going to stay stock turbo and have some huge ass fmic in front for no reason.

Remember though, it's pretty easy to sell intercooler setups anyways, so worst case scenario you just sell it and buy the fatty later.
Click to expand...

Double post?! Tapatalk fail?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top