Trying to buy ms6 need advice.

Eroler1

Eroler1

NPC
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I live in Hawaii, and speed6 here is very very very rare, I saw one for sale as of right now for $5,999 with 130,000 miles on it, I know kinda over price since it's dealer, and I live on the main island the other speed6 are on the other islands and it's very hassle to ship it here,
Any advice?
Not really familiar with ms6
I currently own a ms3 that have the engine delete mod.
Before I get flame on not researching
I AM KNOWLEDGEABLE ON MS3 platform
My block is going thru third rebuild, LOL
First was stock piston can't handle meth
Second was head seal blown
Now third is oil pump magically disassembling itself.
My ms3 was dedicated on ROLL racing only, we don't have track here so 3 beeps then wot, kinda gutted with no ac (relocated alternator) pushing 4 d07 meth on jmf with pte6062.
As for the engine getting build if I end up getting the ms6 then I will transplant my engine to it, what are the stuff that is compatible from Gen 2 ms3 to ms6?
I know clutch
Engine
Manifolds
AP
That's pretty much it right?
I wanted to use my gen 2 trans but meh doesn't fit it, also since the ms6 is high mileage what are the stuff that needs refresh, I do know cap bearings, how bout differential? Or is it even worth it to buy ms6 since I'm going to gut that car and remove ac/heater and remove as much weight I can, not gonna be my daily.
Thanks guys

https://www.premierautoshawaii.com/...62/2006-MAZDA-SPEED-6-Honolulu-HI#prettyPhoto
 
Just like my how to, trust nothing buying used. Carfax before going in, dealer pre-purchase inspection.
 
Try and jew em down, cel is on and who wants panda interior. If they say the cel is some cheap fix then tell them to fix it. Def get the carfax for it but otherwise it looks like its all stock (at least the exterior) which is pretty rare. If you dont like the interior it might not be hard to find someone to swap you, plenty of panda fanboys out there.
 
davychronic said:
Try and jew em down, cel is on and who wants panda interior. If they say the cel is some cheap fix then tell them to fix it. Def get the carfax for it but otherwise it looks like its all stock (at least the exterior) which is pretty rare. If you dont like the interior it might not be hard to find someone to swap you, plenty of panda fanboys out there.
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Thanks for the reply man, for the interior, it really doesn't matter to me since I'm gonna gut it out anyway, I'm pretty sure it's stock, I rarely seen modify speed6 here.
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Easter Bunny said:
Ap doesn't transfer from ms3.
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I thought it is transferable when I check on Cobb website, I guess I'm wrong,
 
last i knew you had to pay to change since the software isnt the same
 
Easter Bunny said:
last i knew you had to pay to change since the software isnt the same
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Thanks man I'll shoot Cobb an email? Can I ask your opinion? Do you think it's worth it to change to ms6 from ms3 if I'm only gonna do roll race 40mph, I'm only after the awd since torque steer is killah
 
Good mounts and a lower tie bar will also make torque steer a thing of the past. I wouldn't change cars just for that one reason, myself.
 
Hahaha thanks for the reply guys, yeah I got 80duro mounts and I have a tie bar, I can feel difference but torque steer still, when 28psi hits 6062
Oh and I don't go to the gym
 
Easter Bunny said:
Get a better alignment or better tires or both
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Thanks for the advice bro, yeah I got an alignment for it professionally done I lost the paper tho wish I could show you, I'm not the brightest in alignment specs. For the tires I have 245 nt05 on 18x10 LOL
 
Easter Bunny said:
Confirm that the limited slip is still working
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About that I'm not 100% sure, I did do the swas switch mod,
A little bit info about my sleeping car
-traction bar
-moog swaybar end link/oem spec (didn't have enough $ when changing it)
-isc n1 coilover fully soft at front, stiff at rear
-245s nt05 18x10 front 215s at rear (no not stance nation, but I have 17x9 that will fit 255 federal rs-rr soon) ditched the 18s since its heavy
-swas mod
-aligned but I'll have to look for the paper so I can show.
-rear is gutted (no spare no trunk stuff no back seat no tools just 7gal meth tank and pump)
-no crash bar at front since yolo
-jbr pmm 80duro
-cpe rmm75duro
-oem trans mount (have jbr 70duro mount I bought after my car blew)

Once I get my engine that's being machines for 3 years then I'll copy nishan setup which is low at front and fully raised at rears with softest front and stiffest rears with 19s at rears and 17s at front, still looking around how to cure tq stear and trying to change the bushing in the mounts by buying liquid polyurethane 94 duro for the pmm and tmm while going to do jbr solid rmm
 
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What motor mounts are you running?

How low are you on the coilovers?

Have you checked your front sway bar links for preload?

Definitely get a thorough alignment, and a corner balance if you can.
 
Mauro_Penguin said:
What motor mounts are you running?

How low are you on the coilovers?

Have you checked your front sway bar links for preload?

Definitely get a thorough alignment, and a corner balance if you can.
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Thanks for the reply bro, the info is above actually, although I just realize my rmm is kinda shot? Not sure but there's a space between the rubber and the body of the mount in the cpe I'm not 100% if that's normal, and the speed6 is sold so I will keep my ms3, I just bought jbr 80 duro trans mount and jbr solid rmm, for the sway bar preload I'm rocking oem replacement front sway bar link, I also have ISC N1 coil overs, and I think it was my blown rmm? With combination of the high offset +12 rims with a 245 on 10 inch width rims I read it's not good since the sidewall flex when tires stretch and ALSO One of the tires is newer than the other
 
Going too low in the front will make torque steer worse. All three engine mounts, with a lower arm bar and good tires should be enough to get rid of most of the torque steer. If that's not good enough then start replacing bushings in the front suspension with poly or metal.
 
AYOUSTIN said:
Going too low in the front will make torque steer worse. All three engine mounts, with a lower arm bar and good tires should be enough to get rid of most of the torque steer. If that's not good enough then start replacing bushings in the front suspension with poly or metal.
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Oh thanks for the advice, in planning on copying nishan setup where, front is lowered and softer while rear is stiff and raised
 
His car is setup like that to combat weight transfer, you won't have to worry about that as much because you're roll racing. Weight transfer is a much bigger issue in launching from a stop than from a roll. At the end of the day when you're making large power, there's always going to be some torque steer, it's the nature of the beast.
 
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