VoodooShark's V2 Buttz Build
- Thread starter VoodooJef
- Start date
Sweet! My goals are not terribly lofty yet. We`ll see how the tune develops.
BTW, you`re on base map, yes? What did your turbo do as far as boost? Mine`s doing 23 on spring pressure. While not a tragedy, it does make for more failsafe concerns.
Minor update: Raw test for spring pressure confirmed the WG is doing 24psi all by itself. Again, not a ridiculous number, but 24 *unintentional* psi is not what we want. Called BNR and he said lengthening the actuator arm two turns should bring me down to where it needs to be. It looked like that was going to be the biggest MFer to do, but with some careful assessment of the situation, a 9mm crow`s foot, and a magnet I can do it without even pulling the intercooler. That`s happening in about an hour. Report to follow 
Yep, that's very high. For comparison, the spring pressure on my S3 is 14psi. Whatcha gonna shoot for? Maybe 15? With EBCS, you can usually double the base spring pressure at full WGDC (so I could run up to ~28 or so, if I wanted; but I don't, and the turbo's not efficient way up there).Minor update: Raw test for spring pressure confirmed the WG is doing 24psi all by itself. Again, not a ridiculous number, but 24 *unintentional* psi is not what we want. Called BNR and he said lengthening the actuator arm two turns should bring me down to where it needs to be. It looked like that was going to be the biggest MFer to do, but with some careful assessment of the situation, a 9mm crow`s foot, and a magnet I can do it without even pulling the intercooler. That`s happening in about an hour. Report to follow
Anything lower than 20. I took 3 turns out of the actuator arm, just waiting for it to cool off to get it back together.
[doublepost=1489775336][/doublepost]well, 3 turns got me down to a max of 22. I could get back into it but my first map instructions said not to concern if it stays under 22. I may go in and take one more turn out just to be safe but it`s not blowing out the plugs anymore either.
[doublepost=1489775336][/doublepost]well, 3 turns got me down to a max of 22. I could get back into it but my first map instructions said not to concern if it stays under 22. I may go in and take one more turn out just to be safe but it`s not blowing out the plugs anymore either.
Dang. FWIH, S4s don't have creep issues, but if creep WAS an issue, I'd definitely prefer creeping from 0 WGDE @ 15psi, for instance, instead of creeping starting from 22, you know?
I doubt I`ll get it down to 15 without replacing the actuator. Not that it`s a big deal and the guys at BNR said they`d send me one but I am gonna get back into it tomorrow and shoot for 19. It`s not a hard process, just tedious to get to.
Yes, I'm on a base map. Tuner says it shouldn't go over 21psi, but I hit 21.15 at WOT in 3rd today. I have the GA set at 22ish and have activated it (on the first drive). All the other parameters I'm looking at for safety (AFR KR and HPFP) look good so far and the car feels good, so tomorrow I'll be taking a few logs. I'll post em up at that other place where my other stuff is so as not to be rude.
Actually kinda glad to see yours was high as well. I took three full turns out of my actuator to get it down to about 20.5, but like you, all else looks great now.
Yep, still base map. But the 24psi I was pushing kinda forced my hand to get it handled before we moved forward. Too much boost for the base map. It`ll certainly do it later, but with the accompanying timing and fuel maps. Curiously I am also doing meth tank and pump tomorrow. I`d have done the install today but my controller is in the vent pod and the dash is being replaced tomorrow so it`d have to come right back out.
Just a heads-up: I didn't remove my dash to install my vent pod boost gauge. I took out the vent, drilled a hole down through the defrost vent channel, ran the wiring/boost line down through there, and installed the vent pod/boost gauge. Then, of course, I had to wire everything, and lines were ran in various places even before that point. But the dash was never removed. And I personally found the grommet for the hood release to be a great pass-through for the boost line. If you have a lot of other wires too, I'd suggest the port behind the glove box.
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You`re thinking in reverse, amigo. The dash doesn`t come out to install in the vent pod, but the vent pod has to come out to replace the dash, which is happening today. Didn`t want to have to install it only to have to cut the wiring the next day.
I was under the impression that the base map would limit the ability of the turbo to spool past "xx" lbs, but as I said before, I went over the "xx" lbs as well. What did your tuner have your boost set to when you hit 24?
Base map is to determine spring pressure, so it was set to command zero boost, only what the WG would do on it`s own. It`s the boost control solenoid that allows boost higher than spring pressure by keeping any boost from getting to the WG. Therein was the problem. It`s not that 24psi (or 22, or 20) was a problem, per se, it`s the fact that 24 was the mechanical minimum boost limit, so there would be no way to get less than that, so absolutely no headroom for changing environmental conditions. The tune can keep the WG closed longer, but it can`t open it any earlier.
Who is your tuner?
My vent pod/boost gauge was already installed before my dash was replaced. I pointed it out to Mazda, and the Mazda techs didn't mess up my boost gauge at all when taking out/installing the new dash. I asked them to be very careful when disconnecting and reconnecting everything. They did so just fine. They swapped the dash and were careful to reattach everything properly and the boost gauge is as good as ever, just FYI.
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It wasn`t a big deal. I knew it was getting done today and not in a terrible hurry to get the kit installed. Mike knocked out the dash in under two hours so now I can move forward with the methanol install. Justin today requested logs with it when he sent my new map. so I`ll get it installed by wednesday.