Well its out!

phate said:
The swain tech coating explodes if water touches it while hot. Leaves little pock marks. I suspect all of the ceramic coatings act similarly, but it's something to consider with the hood vent.
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Thanks for the warning on that! I've been researching it quite a bit and seen some bubbling action over time. I have zero intention of ever driving the car in wet weather again but things happen.

I know I need to do something about the CS exhaust manifold to mitigate heat I'm just undecided on what direction to go.

From my loose understanding any sort of heat wrap/coating will shorten the service life of the component. How much impact will it have though?

The positive side of this is that the CS is cast so I would imagine it would be more tolerant than a welded tubular design.
 
I have a cheap ebay tubular mani swain tech coated and it's lasted several seasons. I think you'll be fine. I'm planning to add some stainless steel heat shields this year in addition to the coating.
 
I almost tagged you EB, I was hoping you would chime in.

I never understood that whole moisture thing either. Not to mention I would imagine with the temps any moisture would dissapate.
 
T
phate said:
I have a cheap ebay tubular mani swain tech coated and it's lasted several seasons. I think you'll be fine. I'm planning to add some stainless steel heat shields this year in addition to the coating.
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That's great to hear! I seriously doubt my car will ever see the temps you probably see on the track.
 
It's true the rust on manifolds has to do with quality of the manifold, it also depends on where you live and the weather.

I've seen cheap exhaust rot/rust here in FL, not to mention the weird rust you get on cars the closer you live to the coast. It's not like northern salt rust from winters.

Going on 6 years now with the full race manifold coated and wrapped. 5 years with my cpe downpipe wrapped. No issues so far.
 
Pretty much, I have all the Powerflex bushings and I plan to clean and paint all the arms as well as the sub frame. I also have a set Swift Springs with B8s and some Massive Speed camber arms.

We shall see if I regret going to urethane on the street.

Depending on how things look above the fuel tank I may drop that if I see any issues.
 
Well some things have happened. I finally got around to lowering the car. Swift springs on B8s as well as a Whiteline 27 mm RSB and a TB Performance rear lower tie brace as well as some Meyle E46 M3 front swaybar endlinks. I did install the Whiteline Bumpsteer kit as well and did not have to lower the subframe as I read was necessary in a couple of other threads. It took some a little creativity and some finagling but I was able to do even with the TB Torque brace in the way which definitely made things more difficult. I can see how if you still had an OEM downpipe you would not be able to get away with this though.

I also got some new wheels and tires! 17x9 40 offset Konig Ampliforms on 255 40 17 on Falken Azenis 615K plus. I did roll the rear fenders completely flat and used some 3M polyurethane seam sealer to seal things up. I went with the professional stuff that lets off the nasty chemicals and requires a respirator. Stuff is completely cured in 30 mins. Same thing I used on the hood when I cut it to fit the hood vent.

Car rides fantastic and I have zero rub so far, I did test my rear fender clearance when I was installing the rear suspension.The picture is with the rear spring removed and I used a jack to compress until it was resting on the bumpstop, clearing by about 1/4 inch. As far as my plans to paint everything and drop subframes as well as the urethane bushings that's all been put on hold. I have way too many other things taking my time up and Id like to just enjoy the car at this point. I still plan to install the Corksport front brake calipers and the Mazda 5 rear brakes in the coming weeks. Rear calipers are currently being powder coated so once I have them back I'll do that and then I'm probably done for a while or so I hope!

Side.jpg Front.jpg Rear.jpg FenderClear.jpg Strut.jpg Seam Seal.jpg
 
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I feel like we are buying all the same things lately. I'm shopping for wheels and tires now and will probably get the same wheels lol. How was clearance on the inside rear? Do you think a smaller offset would clear and not need to roll the fenders?
 
Easter Bunny said:
I feel like we are buying all the same things lately. I'm shopping for wheels and tires now and will probably get the same wheels lol. How was clearance on the inside rear? Do you think a smaller offset would clear and not need to roll the fenders?
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They are basically the perfect fit front and rear. Cleance up front just barely misses the strut probably 1/4 inch. The rear I think there's a little more room on the inside but I don't think Konigs are available in a different offset that would allow not rolling the fenders.

I based this fitment off a lot of homework, I saw multiple people running RPF1s in 45 offset with a 5 mil spacer. So 40 offset is essentially the same but no spacer. Worked out perfectly, I also found another 2013 Speed in Fitment Industries running Konig Dekagrams in the same fitment I have and stating only rear fenders need to be rolled.

I didn't have to run extended lugs or any spacers to make this work but I do plan to install ARP extended lugs and Gorilla steel open ended lug nuts. I'm not tracking the car but the added stress of a much grippier tire has me a little paranoid. Probably not necessary on the street but it def can't hurt.

EB I bought my whole setup through Discount Tire and had them price match Good Win Racing, they were on sale for $209 a wheel a few weeks ago. They have gone up a little bit still better than Discounts price.
https://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/61-2308.html

Rolling the fenders wasn't bad at all I used an Eastwood Pro fender roller and a heat gun and just took my time.
 
Oh yeah! You got your car lookin right! Nice work!

Hey them fender rollers work out real good! I bought mine, rolled the fenders on my 96 mustang and i havent touched it since. You got me thinking tho....maybe i need to look at my speeds tire fender clearance a little closer
 
So I think I am done throwing money at this car! I had plans to go PI but have changed my mind, plan is to enjoy it the rest of this year and see about selling next summer. I still really enjoy driving it but I am getting a bit tired of all the work involved in having something so far from stock. There is always something but hey I created this and its been an awesome experience.

On a brighter note I did get the brakes on the car finally. Corksport front calipers with Centric/Brembo high carbon rotors, Mazda 5 brakes out back and EBC yellow stuff pads all the way around. I had a shop powder coat a set of brand new rear calipers for the Mazda5.

I also decided to put some ARP long wheel studs on the car while I was at it and some Gorilla open end lug nuts. I wasn't sure if I was going to need spacers to run these wheels and it turns out I didn't. I had already purchased the studs and lug nuts so I figured why not!

frnt.jpg frnt2.jpg rr.jpg rr2.jpg fw.jpg rw.jpg
 
To be continued.......

MS3Trailer.jpg

Off to Colorado, new owner seems like a really cool guy and has a deposit down with Barret for the Contrive AWD kit! So it seems he will pick up where I left off and make this thing a true beast. He is a greenie member here so I look forward to him becoming a metal member and seeing the progress continue with this car.

That being said thanks to everyone who helped me since I started asking stupid questions around here a few years ago. I couldn't have learned as much and done as much in the past 2 years or so as I have without this forum and community! You guys are awesome and its been a hell of an experience.
 
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