What did you do to your ride today

[blackms3_71]

I have a 2.25 gallon tank in the spare tire well and also have no level sensor, just top it off every Saturday, usually it's still half full.

one gallon tank here in the trunk mounted on the left panel, I have my pump in the spare tire area. ss lines under the car to the engine bay. had this system for 2+ years with no issue other then the ones I cause lol

 

[ToXic3]

Re-gapped my plugs, seems they open up after some time. It's been about six months since gapping at .026, two were at .028 and two were .030.

My NGK step colder were doing the same thing, and every once in a while I would get a random misfire code. I replaced with a new set. See how the new ones do.

 

[Joel]

Got a Stratified E85 tune. So much zoom, zoom for $50!

 

[Finch204]

Last Sunday I got in my car, started it and got nothing. Dashboard lights came on and the car would barely crank. Checked battery voltage on the AP and it was 7.9-8.1. I did notice that the car seemed to start slower after I flashed my e85 map. I thought it was related to that and neglected to check the battery voltage.

Anyways, last night I was finally able to buy a new battery; I decided on the Optima Yellowtop. Pricey and heavy, but it's got great reviews so I gave it a try. Had a little noob moment with the installation since this battery is shorter vertically than the oem battery. (I put it in the battery box and tried to install the tie-down bracket, I quickly realized that won't work LOL.) It does come with a 2 piece height adapter. You only need to use 1 piece of the adapter since using both will not allow the adapter to sit inside the battery box properly. I suggest putting in the adapter into the battery box first, then you can drop the battery on it. After I got that sorted out, finished up the install and car started up fine. At idle, AP reports battery voltage values at 12.6-14.0. During my commute this morning, battery voltage while cruising was a little over 13.

 

[Redline]

Last Sunday I got in my car, started it and got nothing. Dashboard lights came on and the car would barely crank. Checked battery voltage on the AP and it was 7.9-8.1. I did notice that the car seemed to start slower after I flashed my e85 map. I thought it was related to that and neglected to check the battery voltage.

Anyways, last night I was finally able to buy a new battery; I decided on the Optima Yellowtop. Pricey and heavy, but it's got great reviews so I gave it a try. Had a little noob moment with the installation since this battery is shorter vertically than the oem battery. (I put it in the battery box and tried to install the tie-down bracket, I quickly realized that won't work LOL.) It does come with a 2 piece height adapter. You only need to use 1 piece of the adapter since using both will not allow the adapter to sit inside the battery box properly. I suggest putting in the adapter into the battery box first, then you can drop the battery on it. After I got that sorted out, finished up the install and car started up fine. At idle, AP reports battery voltage values at 12.6-14.0. During my commute this morning, battery voltage while cruising was a little over 13.

Sounds normal. A well-charged battery is usually ~12.5v. When running, My Speed is generally in the 13.3-13.7v range due to the alternator.

 

[Quigs]

My NGK step colder were doing the same thing, and every once in a while I would get a random misfire code. I replaced with a new set. See how the new ones do.

Mine did that too. I replace mine every 15k miles and now check the gap around 7-8k miles.

 

[Finch204]

Mine did that too. I replace mine every 15k miles and now check the gap around 7-8k miles.

Hmm I didn't know it does that, good info. Anyway, that reminds me that I need to replace my plugs as they are probably over 15k miles by now.

 

[VTMongoose]

Mine did that too. I replace mine every 15k miles and now check the gap around 7-8k miles.

Why so short of an interval?

 

[ibcrusn]

Why so short of an interval?

Good question. Checking and gapping as necessary at 7,500 mile intervals although slight overkill provides more than enough inspection opportunities to verify the electrodes are not worn excessively to require premature replacement. I've always misunderstood the reasoning behind changing high quality iridium plugs based on a low number of miles unless the engine is always operated with high boost levels (racing environment, etc).

I've never had any trouble with the NGK's I'm running now and check them maybe once a year (~13-15k miles). That said the new Denso plugs I tried only two lasted 10k miles before losing part of the center electrode and opening the gap to .042". The only reason I checked them was while I was changing my IC back to stock for autocross, access was easy.

 

[Redline]

Why so short of an interval?

BT lyfe, yo. That's the interval Justin (FREEKTUNE) recommended to me too. Our plugs don't last nearly as long with that much more boost than stock, and with no real viable ignition power upgrades, our solution is shorter intervals. Usually it becomes clear you need new plugs because you'll start getting blowout and/or increased KR. How long has it been since you changed yours?

 

[tarnumf]

Why so short of an interval?

Unlike standard heat range, one step colder NGK's ground electrode is just nickel and not platinum tipped, so they wear faster.
NGK specs say 40-50k vs. 80-100k miles longevity. So, for our upgraded cars you can use 50% of these intervals.

 

[REDMAN]

Got a nice rock chip that quickly spread to window cancer about 500 ft after the hit. oem tech package windshields are a slim $750 plus $125 to install. Looks like my new tires for fall dragon camp are no more.

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[VashEXE]

Got a nice rock chip that quickly spread to window cancer about 500 ft after the hit. oem tech package windshields are a slim $750 plus $125 to install. Looks like my new tires for fall dragon camp are no more.

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Your insurance doesn't cover that? My replacements have always been free + I always got a Visa gift card or something with it. I guess that must just be an AZ thing.

 

[REDMAN]

Your insurance doesn't cover that? My replacements have always been free + I always got a Visa gift card or something with it. I guess that must just be an AZ thing.

Windshield coverage is a rider on most insurance policies. It covers it, but I would still pay 500 bucks to cover deductible. Insurance will also try and give me a aftermarket windshield vs. oem.

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[VashEXE]

Windshield coverage is a rider on most insurance policies. It covers it, but I would still pay 500 bucks to cover deductible. Insurance will also try and give me a aftermarket windshield vs. oem.

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What is auto glass no fault insurance coverage? Arizona is one of the few states that offer this kind of coverage. Arizona law ARS 20-264 states that insurance companies that write comprehensive coverage must offer policyholders auto glass replacement coverage with a $0 deductible. In other words, a separate glass endorsement, with low cost premium; typically about $5-$15 a month and controlled by the Arizona Department of Insurance. Arizona lawARS 20-263 , includes the “no fault” insurance claim part which means that insurance companies cannot raise your rates due to any comprehensive auto glass claims that was not caused by you.


Dude AZ is awesome. Sorry to hear that buddy!

 

[REDMAN]

What is auto glass no fault insurance coverage? Arizona is one of the few states that offer this kind of coverage. Arizona law ARS 20-264 states that insurance companies that write comprehensive coverage must offer policyholders auto glass replacement coverage with a $0 deductible. In other words, a separate glass endorsement, with low cost premium; typically about $5-$15 a month and controlled by the Arizona Department of Insurance. Arizona lawARS 20-263 , includes the “no fault” insurance claim part which means that insurance companies cannot raise your rates due to any comprehensive auto glass claims that was not caused by you.


Dude AZ is awesome. Sorry to hear that buddy!

That is what I meant by a "rider" on the policy. If I paid 10 bucks extra a month on my insurance, I would have the same thing. I chose not to...

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[Quigs]

Why so short of an interval?

Because $40 for new plugs every other year is cheap preventative maintenance. Like it was mentioned a few posts after mine, step colder NGKs are good for 40-50k miles. I've read somewhere that 30k is a good life expectancy for them as well with higher boost levels. My Speed is not my everyday commuter, when I drive it it's WOT the entire time either driving around on the weekends or at the track. So I just cut that 30k expectancy in half to 15k since I take them out to regap every 7.5k miles anyway.

I've been changing my step-colder plugs in my heavily boosted cars every 15k miles for over a decade. It's pretty much just a habit now.

For all my other vehicles that are not boosted or modified and therefore have OE heat range plugs I used the manufacture's recommendation for replacement and pull them at 1/2 life and again at 3/4 life to check gap. I just like being meticulous with preventative maintenance.

 

[SharksInSpace]

Put in some JBR boost tubes and a thermal throttle body gasket just to do something. Have a DM EGR delete kit ready for install, as well. Waiting on next revision from Freek for more zooms.

 

[Gizmo]

This weekend I installed my Corksport fuel pump internals, and change the spark plugs to autolites.

 

[PapaBone]

Damond RMM installed along with rotella 5w40 oil change.


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