dudemancool1904
Greenie N00B Member
New tires, replaced a well worn set of PS4S with the new Pilot Sport A/S 4. Dipped the wheels gunmetal. Changed oil (PUP).
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Thank you for the suggestions @Orangatang! I've only ever hand waxed a car myself before. Ive never tried a power polisher as I've hear horror stories of burning the paint or clear coat.Meguiars stuff is usually really good except they tend to used filler in some of their polished and compound in my experience.
I like to use menzerna products. I used their 2500 and 3500 most of the time. If I really need to the 400 is a nice heavy cut, doesn't dry out as fast as the 1000 for me. I fin there products to have a nice working time(don't dry out easily) and easy wiping off. For light stuff I found that the 3500 and a lake county green pad works out really well. Even works good for me on soft black plaint(Nissan, Audi, Toyota).
You know how to make the to do list shorter right?; Do the things on the listThank you for the suggestions @Orangatang! I've only ever hand waxed a car myself before. Ive never tried a power polisher as I've hear horror stories of burning the paint or clear coat.
I'm sure I can do it myself though...just need to find time.
I have a to-do list that never seems to get shorter.
Thank you for the suggestions @Orangatang! I've only ever hand waxed a car myself before. Ive never tried a power polisher as I've hear horror stories of burning the paint or clear coat.
I'm sure I can do it myself though...just need to find time.
I have a to-do list that never seems to get shorter.
You know how to make the to do list shorter right?; Do the things on the list![]()
I'm just looking to get rid of some of the micro-swirls in the clear coat.As long as you use a DA orbital and not a rotary polisher you should be fine. What are you trying to do, get rid of all OE orange peel?
Sound alike you just need a good polish on a random orbital, check this outI'm just looking to get rid of some of the micro-swirls in the clear coat.
To be honest, it's a bit nitpicky for a DD with 123,000 miles and surviving 8 Canadian winters. Haha, it's in pretty good condition to he honest.
I've paid 120-145$ with tax for krown on the speed 160$ for a full sized suv .@Awafrican, I'm starting to develop rust on the inside bottoms of my doors and the rear wheel arches. I've applied some rust check to those areas myself as a stop-gap before getting some paint supplies to fix those areas up (non-visible so who cares how it ends up looking).
Just curious how much a guy should pay for Krown protection in Canada.
Also just got our first snow and got new winter tires, but having a lot of issues with the shop that did them. Threw out my old TPMS sensors and didn't properly mount one of the tires to the rims. So I'm now on Day 5 of trying to resolve some of these issues...
It'll leak for about a week lol, super fun but I've done mine 5/7 years maybe 6/7 years and had it at the dealer a few weeks ago and they thought I didn't winter drive it so worth it imoCompleted in the last couple of weeks:
1) New Nokian Hakkapeliita R3 winter tires for my car - I believe they are 205/50R17
2) Took my car in to get a Krown Rust Control treatment...does it ever stop dripping oil everywhere? My car is leaking oil like a Land / Range Rover.
Need to investigate an intermittent issue with my proximity key. Might have the dealership change the brake fluid and coolant while I'm there...I know I know...I could do it myself.
It'll leak for about a week lol, super fun but I've done mine 5/7 years maybe 6/7 years and had it at the dealer a few weeks ago and they thought I didn't winter drive it so worth it imo
Penetrating fluid to lubricate, and the oem scissor jack between the hub and spring perch hasn't failed me yet. A few blows to the side of the hub with a large hammer also helps to shock (pun not intended) it free.